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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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5 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inttituta  for  Historical  IMicroraproductions  /  inttitut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  hiatoriquaa 


Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  instituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
originai  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  whicli  may  t>a  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  aigniflcantly  changa 
tha.uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  couiaur 


I     I    Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurAa  at/ou  palliculAa 

Covar  titia  miaaing/ 

La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  mapa/ 

Cartaa  giographiquaa  an  couiaur 

Colourad  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  couiaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


rri   Colourad  plataa  and/or  iiluatrationa/ 


Planchaa  at/ou  iiluatrationa  un  couiaur 

Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autraa  documanta 

Tight  binding  may  cauaa  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  Intarlor  margin/ 

La  r«  liura  sarrAa  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
diatortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blanic  laavaa  addad  during  raatoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia,  thaaa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagaa  bianchaa  ajouttaa 
iora  d'una  raatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  taxta. 
maia,  ioraqua  cala  4tait  poaaibia,  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  4t«  filmiaa. 

Addltioi:<si  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  aupplAmantairaa: 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm^  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  Ati  poaaibia  da  aa  procurar.  Laa  dAtaila 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raprodulta,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normala  da  fiimaga 
aont  indiquia  ci-daaaoua. 


Tha 
tot 


|~~|  Colourad  pagaa/ 


0 


Pagaa  da  couiaur 

Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa  andommagAaa 

Pagaa  raatorad  and/oi 

Pagaa  raataurAaa  at/ou  palliculAaa 

Pagaa  diacolourad,  atainad  or  foxai 
Pagaa  dAcoiortea.  tachatiaa  ou  piquAaa 

Pagaa  datachad/ 
Pagaa  dAtachAaa 

Showthroughy 
Tranaparanca 

Quality  of  prir 

QualitA  in^gaia  da  I'impraaaion 

Includaa  aupplamantary  matarii 
Comprand  du  material  auppi4mantaira 

Only  adition  avaiiabia/ 
Saula  Mition  diaponibia 


I — I  Pagaa  damagad/ 

|~~|  Pagaa  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 

r^  Pagaa  diacolourad,  atainad  or  foxad/ 

I     I  Pagaa  datachad/ 

rri  Showthrough/ 

|~~|  Quality  of  print  variaa/ 

nn  Includaa  aupplamantary  matarial/ 

I — I  Only  adition  avaiiabia/ 


Tha 
pos 
oft 

fillT 


Ori| 
bag 
tha 
aioi 
oth 
firs 
aior 
ori 


Tha 
aha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
dlff( 
anti 
bagi 
righ 
raqi 
mat 


Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  arrata 
alipa,  tiaauaa,  ace,  hava  baan  rafllmad  to 
anaura  tha  baat  poaaibia  imaga/ 
Laa  pagaa  totalamant  ou  partiallamant 
obacurciaa  par  un  fauillat  d'arrata,  una  palura. 
ate.  ont  At*  filmAaa  i  nouvaau  da  fapon  A 
obtanir  la  malllaura  imaga  poaaibia. 


Thia  itam  la  filmad  at  tha  raductlon  ratio  chacltad  balow/ 

Ca  documant  aat  film*  au  taux  da  rMuotion  indiquA  oi-daaaoua 

10X                           14X                           HX                          22X 

MX 

«K 

y 

itx 

IfX 

»x 

aix 

ax 

a2x 

1 

The  copy  filmed  her*  has  been  reproduced  thenks 

\ 
L'*x*mplalr*  film*  fut  r*produit  gric*  A  la 

to  the  generotity  of: 

gAniroait*  d*: 

Library  of  the  Public 

La  bibliothAqu*  d*s  Archiv** 

Archives  of  Canada 

pubiiqu**  du  Canada 

The  image*  appeering  here  are  the  beet  quality 

Les  imag**  suivantas  ont  M  roproduit**  av*c  1* 

possibl*  consid*ring  th*  condition  and  logibillty 

plus  grand  coin,  compt*  t*nu  d*  la  condition  at 

of  th*  origin*l  copy  and  in  k**ping  with  th* 

d*  1*  n*tt*t4  d*  l'*x*mpl*ir*  film*,  *t  *n 

filming  contract  spacifications. 

conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  da 

( 

filmege. 

32X 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  ar*  fllmad 
b*ginning  with  th*  front  cov*r  and  anding  on 
th*  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  imprea- 
sion,  or  the  beck  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  lest  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustreted  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ere  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couvorture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ent 
par  ie  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  Ie  second 
plat,  salon  Ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  f  limAs  on  commen9ant  par  la 
pramiire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  Ie 
cas:  la  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ".  Ie 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  i  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grend  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  film*  i  partir 
de  I'angle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenent  I*  nombre 
d'images  n4cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

OREGON    MISSIONS 


I 


THE    LODGE    POLE     ( Indian  T^aine) 


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THE    LODGE    POLE     (Indian  ISamo) 
(h'tif^  Chief  of  t/ie  FUl  /KUih. 

y  J  *5  "J"  (S)  LiS  ( •  n  n ap M  sin .)  f.rftrr  •j4.. 


^^':^''^    ami  Trnvols  ovit  llio  ^  /^^^^ 

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NFM'  YORK  , 

J'  iihl  I  s/kuJ    h\'    /'/'<-/»»/// v/    /hi  If  I  iftt  n  . 

18  4  7. 


li 


(  , 


OREGON   MISSIONS 


AND 


(Eraoels 


OYER  THE   ROCKY  MOUNTAINS, 


IN    1845-46. 


FATHER  P.  J.    DE   SMET, 

Of  the  Society  of  Jesua. 


NEW  -  YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  EDWARD  DUNIGAN, 
151,   FULTON-STREET. 


M  DCCC  XLVII. 


11 


11 

!  I 


; 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1847,  by 

EDWARD     DUNIOAN, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  tlie  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the 
Southern  District  of  New- York. 


% 


to  Tnl8 


RIGHT  REVEREND  DR.  HUGHES, 


BISHOP  OF   NEW   VORK. 


I    MONSEIGNEUR, 

From  the  distant  solitudes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
in  the  midst  of  my  missions  among  the  Children  of  the 
Forests,  I  had  the  honor  of  addressing  to  you  most  of 
the  letters  contained  in  this  Volume.  I  may,  therefore, 
I  feel,  take  the  liberty  of  inscribing  it  to  you,  not  only 
as  a  token  of  veneration  for  the  distinguished  qualitios 
and  eminent  abilities  which  mark  your  character  and 
add  lustre  to  your  dignity,  but,  likewise,  as  a  tril)uto  of 
personal  friendship  and  esteem,  with  which  I  am  allowed 
to  subscribe  myself, 

Monseigneur, 

Your  humble  servant, 

r.  J.  DK  SMET,  S.  J. 

Nrw-York,  April  lOth,  1817. 


IH 


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a 


Ifi 


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II 


6. 


# 


%> 


PREFACE 


The  contents  of  the  present  volume,  from  the  pen  of 
the  celebrated  Missionary  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  will 
be  found,  by  the  reader,  to  be  fraught  with  extraordinary 
interest.  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  North 
American  Indians — their  traditions,  their  superstitions, 
their  docility  in  admitting  the  maxims  of  the  gospel, 
and  the  edifying  Hves  of  thousands  who  have  received 
the  grace  of  baptism  and  instruction,  are  described  with 
a  freshness  of  coloring,  and  an  exactness  of  detail,  that 
will  render  them  invaluable  not  only  to  our  own  times, 
but,  especially,  to  posterity.  He  travels  through  those 
vast  and  unexplored  deseits,  not  merely  as  a  mis- 
sionary, filled  with  the  zeal  which  characterized  the 
apostles  of  the  primitive  Society  to  which  he  belongs, 
but  with  the  eye  of  a  poet,  and  an  imagination  glowing 
with  a  bright  yet  calm  enthusiasm.  Hence  the  exqui- 
site descriptions  of  scenery,  of  incidents,  of  events; 
descriptions  which  breathe  the  spirit  of  a  mind  imbued 
with  the  loftiest  conceptions  of  nature,  and  chastened 
with  the  sacred  influences  of  faith. 


xu. 


PREFACE. 


The  reverend  author  having,  before  his  recent  de- 
parture for  his  native  land,  left  the  supervision  of  this 
work  to  my  care,  I  feel  bound,  in  justice  to  his  modesty, 
to  state,  that  the  Introduction,  taken  from  the  Catholic 
Almanac,  is  not  from  his  pen ;  and  he  is  not,  therefore, 
accountable  for  the  epithets  of  praise  (so  eminently  de- 
served, and  yet  so  repugnant  to  his  humility,)  which, 
through  it,  arc  occasionally  coupled  with  his  name. 

The  lithographic  sketches  that  accompany  this  Vo- 
lume, are  copied  from  the  original  drawings  of  the 
Keverend  Father  Point,  S.  J. ;  drawings  of  such  ex- 
quisite perfection,  that  they  would  do  honor  to  any 
master :  and  the  more  admirable,  from  the  circumstance 
of  their  having  been  executed  with  the  pen,  in  the  midst 
of  the  privations  and  difficulties  of  his  remote  and 
arduous  missions. 

In  conclusion,  I  cannot  but  express  the  pleasure, 
instruction,  and  edification,  I  have  derived  from  the 
careful  perusal  of  these  beautiful  letters :  and  I  feel 
convinced  that  they  will  prove,  to  all  who  read  them, 
a  source  of  interest  and  delight  which  few  volumes  of 
the  same  dimensions  can  open  to  the  intellectual  and 
Christian  reader.  •  '•  C.  C.  P. 

New-York,  August  1st,  1847. 


^ 


pJMl-.-^y 


recent  de- 
ion  of  tins 
is  modesty, 
le  Catholic 
,,  therefore, 
inently  de- 
ty,)  which, 
lame. 

y  this  Vo- 
3gs  of  the 
f  such  ex- 
aor  to  any 
ircumstance 
n  the  midst 
remote  and 


I 


le  pleasure, 

d  from  the 

and  I  feel 

read  them, 

volumes  of 

llectual  and 

C.  C.  P. 


I 


.nA3!ig'*iv.. 


i 

nil  mm  f 


m^  ^frjcaii^ 


12." 


^"t  2 


s 


OREGON  MISSIONS. 


AN  OUTLINE   SKETCH 


OF 


OREGON  TERRITORY  AND  ITS  MISSIONS. 


The  political  discussion,  Avliich  has  been  going 
on  for  years  between  the  British  j^overnment 
and  that  of  the  United  States,  in  regard  to  the 
boundary  which  defines  their  respective  por- 
tions of  the  Oregon  territory,  has  turned  upon 
this  distant  region  a  large  share  of  public  atten- 
tion, and  has  won  for  it  an  interest  which  will 
increase  in  proportion  to  the  advances  of  civil- 
ization and  commerce  within  its  borders.  But 
it  becomes  an  object  of  nuich  deeper  interest  in 
th(*  eyes  of  the  philanthropist  and  Christian, 
when  we  look  to  the  efforts  which  have  b(-en 
made,  and  which  are  still  continued,  in  order  to 
diffuse  the  blessings  of  religious  truth  among 


;t 


14 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


its  benighted  inhabitants.  To  the  Catholic, 
especially,  does  this  remote  country  present  the 
most  pleasing  scenes  lor  contemplation,  and  by 
this  reason  we  have  been  induced  to  lay  before 
the  reader,  a  brief  account  of  its  discovery  and 
settlement,  and  of  the  missions  undertaken  for 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  its  inhabitants. 

Oregon  territory  is  that  important  part  of 
North  America  which  extends  from  the  42d  to 
the  50th  degree  of  N.  latitude,  and  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Russian  posses- 
sions, and  on  the  south  by  California ;  forming 
a  kind  of  parallelogram,  about  seven  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  in  length  and  five  hundred  in 
breadth,  and  containing  375,000  square  miles. 

There  appears  no  reason  to  doubt  of  the 
Spaniards  having  been  the  first  to  visit  this 
country.  The  documents  we  possess,  and  the 
tradition  of  the  natives,  concur  to  render  this 
opinion  incontestible.  According  to  them  a 
vessel  made  its  appearance  south  of  the  Colum- 
bia river  before  1792,  and  there  is  still  living 
among  them  a  woman  whose  father  was  one  of 
the  crew  attached  to  the  vessel,  and  whose 
mother  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  the  Kilamukes. 
When  we  add  to  this  that  crucifixes  have  been 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


15 


'atholic, 
sent  the 
,  and  by 
y  before 
i^ery  and 
iken  for 

part  of 
LO  42d  to 
from  the 
^n.  It  is 
[1  posses- 


O" 


formin 
hundred 
mdred  in 
3  miles. 
3t   of  the 
visit  this 
,   and  the 
jnder  this 
)  them   a 
iie  Cohim- 
5till  living 
vas  one  of 
Lnd  whose 
Lilamukes. 
have  been 


found  in  iheir  hands  transmitted  to  them  from 
their  ancestors,  that  the  island  of  Vancouver 
still  exhibits  the  ruins  of  colonial  habitations, 
that  the  strait  which  separates  it  from  the 
mainland  bears  the  name  of  Jumi  Fuca^  and 
that  the  country  itself  is  contiguous  to  Cali- 
fornia, where  the  Spanish  missionaries  had 
penetrated  nearly  two  hundred  years  before,  we 
cannot  but  look  upon  the  Spaniards  as  the  dis- 
coverers of  Oregon. 

After  the  voyage  of  Captain  Cook  in  1790,  by 
which  it  was  ascertained  that  the  sea  along  the 
N.  W.  coast  of  America  abounded  in  otters,  this 
region  was  visited  by  vessels  from  almost  every 
part  of  the  world.  The  people  of  the  United 
States  were  not  behind  others  in  enterprise ;  in 
1792,  Captain  Gray  sailed  up  an  unknown  river 
of  that  country,  to  the  distance  of  eighteen 
miles,  and  the  stream  has  since  retained  the 
name  of  Columbia^  from  the  ship  which  he  com- 
manded. In  leaving  the  river.  Captain  Gray 
passed  the  vessel  of  Captain  Vancouver,  who 
also  navigated  the  Columbia  river  about  one 
hundred  miles,  to  the  point  which  bears  his 
name.  In  1793  the  country  was  visited  by  Sir 
Alexander  McKenzie,  after  discovering  the 
river  which  retains  his  name.     In  1804,  Messrs 


16 


OREGON       MISSIONS 


f   lii 


Lewis  and  Clark  were  commissioned  by  the 
United  States  to  explore  the  sources  of  the 
Columbia,  and  they  descended  the  river  as  far 
as  Gray's  Bay.  A  few  years  after,  in  1810,  Mr. 
Astor  fitted  out  two  expeditions  to  Oregon,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  the  interest  of  the  fur- 
trade  in  those  parts.  The  party  that  had  em- 
barked by  water  arrived  first,  and  erected  a  fort 
called  Astoria,  about  nine  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  The  company  of  the  North- 
West  (English)  also  considered  the  fur-trade  of 
Oregon  as  well  worthy  of  attention,  and  they 
immediately  despatched  an  agent  by  land  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  it ;  but  he  arrived  at 
Astoria  several  months  after  the  first  expedi- 
tions from  the  United  States. 

During  the  war  of  1812,  a  British  vessel 
sailed  to  the  Columbia,  in  order  to  take  possses- 
sion  of  Astoria  and  its  treasure  ;  but  the  captain 
was  cruelly  disappointed  in  discovering  that  the 
place  was  already  held  by  an  agent  of  the 
North- West  Company,  who  had  purchased  it  in 
anticipation  of  the  future  war  with  the  United 
States.  The  Canadians  who  had  settled  there 
under  its  original  owners,  were  employed  by 
the  new  proprietors,  and  their  numbers  increas* 
ed  in  proportion  as  the  Company  extended  its 


f 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


17 


by  the 

of  the 

r  as  far 

no,  Mr. 

;5on,  for 
the  fur- 
lad  em- 
id  a  fort 
c  mouth 
3  North- 
trade  of 
nd  they 
land  for 
rived  at 
expedi- 

ti  vessel 

possses- 

captain 

that  the 

of  the 

Lsed  it  in 

e  United 

ed  there 

loyed  by 

increas* 

inded  its 


t 


operations.  In  this  way  tho  country  was  visit- 
ed in  every  direction,  and  many  of  the  Indian 
tribes  heard  from  them  of  liic  Catholic  religion 
and  th(^.  worship  of  the  true  God.  In  18*^1,  the 
North-West  and  Hudson  Bay  Companies  united 
their  interests,  and  gave  a  new  impulse  to  the 
lur-trade.  Mr.  John  McLaughlin,  who  went  to 
Oregon  in  1824,  was  chiefly  instrumental  in 
promoting  the  prosperity  of  the  country.  He 
added  to  the  business  posts,  and  gave  employ- 
ment to  a  greater  number  of  Canadians  and 
Iroquois.  They  commenced  at  the  same  time 
the  cultivation  of  wheat.  One  of  the  settlers 
having  undertaken,  in  1829.  to  till  the  soil  in  the 
valley  of  Willamette,  his  example  was  soon  fol- 
lowed by  others,  and  the  colony  became  so 
numerous  that  in  1834  an  application  was  made 
to  Dr.  Provencher,  Vicar  Apostolic  of  Hudson 
Bay,  to  procure  a  clergyman  for  the  service  of 
the  people.  The  colonists,  however,  did  not 
succeed  in  obtaining  a  favorable  answer  to 
their  petition,  until  the  following  year,  when 
two  clergymen  were  appointed  for  the  mission ; 
but,  owing  to  the  arrival  of  a  Methodist  preach- 
er and  of  an  Episcopalian  minister  in  Oregon, 
the  former  in  1834,  and  the  latter  in  1837,  the 
departure  of  the  Catholic  clergymen  was  con- 


18 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


u 


siderably  delayed.  Rev.  Mr.  Demers  went  as 
far  as  the  Red  River  in  1837,  and  arrangements 
having  been  made  for  himself  and  fellow-la- 
borer to  pass  into  Oregon  the  following  year, 
Rev.  F.  N.  Blanchet  lel't  Canada  at  the  appoint- 
ed time,  and  joined  his  companion  at  Red  River, 
whence  they  both  started  on  the  10th  of  July, 
and  after  a  perilous  journey  of  between  four 
and  live  thousand  miles,  and  the  loss  of  twelve 
of  their  fellow-travellers  in  the  rapids  of  Colum- 
bia River,  they  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver,  the 
24th  of  November,  of  the  same  year.  On  their 
route  the  two  missionaries  were  treated  with 
the  utmost  courtesy  by  the  traders  whom  they 
met,  and  at  Vancouver  they  were  received  with 
every  demonstration  of  respect  by  James  Doug- 
lass, Esq.,  who  commanded  that  post  during  the 
absence  of  Mr.  McLaughlin  in  England.  On 
seeing  the  missionaries  at  length  among  them, 
the  Canadians  wept  for  joy,  and  the  savages  as- 
sembled from  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles, 
to  behold  the  blftck  ^afnis  of  whom  so  much  had 
been  said. 

Before  we  follow  the  minis! (m*s  of  God  in 
their  apostolic  laboi-s,  w(^  shall  allude  as  bricHy 
as  possible  to  {\w  Jispeet  of  th(^  country,  to  the 
dilliculties  and  dangers  it  presents  to  the  mis- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


19 


kVcnt  as 
(cmcnts 
llo\v-la- 
ig  year, 
ippoint- 
d  River, 
[)!'  July, 
311  four 
'  twelve 
Colum- 
ver,  the 
3ii  their 
[h\  with 
mi  they 
ed  with 
s  Doug- 
•ing  the 
id.     On 


;•  them, 
iges  as- 
d  miles, 
ich  had 

God  in 
;  hrielly 
,  to  the 
lie  luis- 


sionarv,  and  to  its  commercial  and  agricultural 
resources. 

We  shall  observe,  in  the  first  place,  that  the 
Columbia  River  stretches  from  its  mouth  about 
'2i)()  miles  to  the  east,  as  far  as  Fort  Walla 
Walla;  it  then  takes  a  northerly  direction  150 
miles,  to  Fort  Okanagan  ;  thence  it  extends  170 
miles  easlerlv  to  Colville.  Fort  Vancouver,  the 
l)rincipal  post  in  Oregon,  is  situated  in  45°  JJO' 
N.  latitude,  about  one  hundred  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  on  its  western 
bank,  in  ascending  the  river.  The  Willamette 
is  a  tributarv  of  the  Columbia,  falling  into  it 
lour  mih^s  below  Vancouver  on  the  opposite 
sid(\  Twenty  miles  up  the  stream  is  a  cascad(i 
of  about  twentv-live  feet,  and  thirty  miles  fur- 
there  is  a  Canadian  establisbment,  which  in  lH',iS 
luunbenMl  twenty-six  Catholic  lamilies,  besides 
the  S(M tiers  trom  the  Fnited  States.  The  resi- 
dencM'  of  the  ]\b'lh()dist  minister  was  ten  miles 
higlK'r  up.  The  River  Cowlitz  falls  into  the 
Columbia  tliirtv  miles  below  A'ancouver,  on  the 
same  side*.     Foi'tv-live  miles  from  its  mouth  is 

« 

seen  the  establishment  which  bears  its  name. 
Vowv  Catholics  lamilies  resided  here  on  the 
arrival  of  the  missionaries.     From  this  ])Iae(^  to 


20 


OREGON       IMISSIONS. 


'U 


i\os(|iiMly  at  the  southern  oxtnMiiity  of  PiiiJ^ct 
Sound,  the  dislanrc  is  noarly  seventy  miles,  and 
it  is  e(]UMlly  far  I'roni  tlie  latter  point  to  the 
island  of  Wliilbv.  Two  davs'  journey  i'urther 
north  will  brinic  vou  to  th(^  ilivcn*  l-'razer,  on 
whiidi  Fort  Lani;lev  is  siluatiMl.  Tiiis  river 
falls  into  lVi«2:et  Sound  or  the  Gull' of  Geor<i^ia. 

Tii(^  mission  of  St.  Mary's  amonu:  tlie  Flat- 
heads  is  \cn  days'  journey  from  Colville,  to- 
wards  the  south-east,  and  about  liv(;  hundred 
miles  from  V^ancouver.  The  most  distant  to 
whieli  Mr.  Demers  has  ])enotrated  as  yet,  is 
B(»ar  Lak(^  in  Ninv  C;iledonia,  seven  hundred 
niil(>s  from  A'aiicouver.  The  reader  may  form 
some  idea  of  tlu^  almost  insurmountable  dillicul- 
ties  to  be  encountered  by  our  two  missionaries, 
in  visiting  their  various  posts,  so  widely  distant 
from  eaeh  other,  espeeially  in  a  country  overrun 
in  every  direction  by  lofty  mountains.  These 
mountains  ^(MKM'ally  extend  from  north  to  south. 
From  the  Valley  of  Willamette  are  seen  three 
elevated  pcniks,  which  have  the  form  of  a  cone, 
and  are  covered  with  p(Mj»ctual  snow;  hence 
cjdled  Suoin/  Mountains.  One  of  \\\vu\  Mt.  St. 
Helena,  stands  opposite  Cowlitz  to  th(^  east,  and 
lor  some  years  past  has  been  noted  for  its  vol- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


21 


lies,  Jind 
;  to   the 

lurtlicr 
tzcr,  on 
is  river 
orji^ia. 
le  Flfit- 
ille,  to- 
liuiidred 
5tant  to 
}  yet,  is 
lumdred 
ly  Ibrrn 
dillicul- 
oiifiries, 

distant 
overrun 
These 
0  south, 
n  three 
a  cone, 
;  lience 

Mt.  St. 
ist,  and 

its  vol- 


oanie  eruptions.*  Besides  the  rivers  we  have 
mentioned,  there  Jire  several  otliers,  the  princi- 
pal ol'  Avliich  ;ire  the  Clamet,  Umpqua,  and  the 
Chikeeles.  Tlie  Colund)ia  is  navigable  as  far 
.IS   th«^    cascade,    fifty- lour    miles   above   Van- 

COIlVfM'. 

Th(^  immense  v.alleys  in  Oregon  Territory, 
covered  with  extensive  and  fertile  prairies,  fol- 
low the  course  of  the  mountains  from  north  to 
soullf,  and  are  crossed  in  different  directions  by 
rivulets  bordered  with  trees.  They  easily  yield 
to  ttie  j)lontrh,  and  though  the  first  crop  is  not 
very  €'i!)undant.  the  second  is  generally  sufficient 
to  rej)ay  the  labor  of  tillag<\  The  soil  is  for 
the  most  i)art  fertile,  particularly  in  the  south. 
Every  kind  of  grain  is  successfully  cultivated 
near  Cowlitz,  A'ancouver,  in  the  Willamette 
\'ulley,  and  further  south.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  th(.'  neighborhood  of  Fort  Walla  Walla, 
Colville  ;  the  mission  of  St.  Mary's  ;  the  mission 
ol*  the  Sa(;red  Heart,  of  St.  Ignatius,  and  St. 
Francis  iiorgia,  among  the  Pend-d'oreilles  ;  of 
St.  Francis  Jiegis,  in  the  valley  to  Colville;  of 
tlie  Assumption  and  the  Holy  Heart  of  Mary, 

•  Mt.  St.  Helena  was  meoflnred  by  Captaiu  Wilkes,  and  was 
made  9,550  feet. 


22 


OREGON       M  [  S  S  I  O  N'  h'. 


,    fl 


i'l'l' 


m 


I 


among  the  Skalsi.     Other  districts  that  are  not 
tillable,  afford  an  excellent  pasture  lor  cattle. 

As  to  the  climate  of  Oregon,  it  is  not  so 
severe  as  might  be  supposed  from  its  elevated 
latitude.  The  snow  never  falls  to  a  gTcater 
depth  than  three  or  four  inches  in  the  lower 
portions  of  the  territory,  and  seldom  remains 
long  on  the  ground.  When  the  snows,  after 
having  accumulated  on  the  mountains  and  their 
vicinity  in  consequence  of  extreme  cold,  begin  to 
melt,  and  the  heavy  rains  supervene,  the  plains 
around  are  covered  with  water,  and  sometimes 
considerable  damage  is  caused  by  the  inunda- 
tion. The  rains  commence  in  October,  anci 
continue  until  March  with  little  interruption. 
The  very  cold  weather  lasts  only  for  a  few 
weeks.  In  the  month  of  June  the  Columbia 
always  overflows  its  banks,  from  the  thaw 
which  takes  place  on  the  mountains,  and  every 
four  or  five  vears  its  waters  rise  to  an  extraor- 
dinary  height,  and  do  much  injury  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Vancouver. 

Until  the  year  1830,  the  Territory  of  Oregon 
was  thickly  s<Mtled  by  luuneroiis  tribes  of 
Indians  ;  but  at  that  perioil  the  country  border- 
ing on  the  Columbia  was  visited  by  a  fatal 
scourge  which  carried  off  nearly  two-thirds  of 


i>  U  iU;  ()  N      M  I  ri  S  I  <)  N  s. 


ire  not 
It  lie. 
not  so 
levatcd 
"Tcater 

lower 
emainsj 
;,  after 
id  their 
egin  to 
plains 
letimes 
nunda- 
r,  and 
uption. 
a  few 
umbia 

thaw 

:  every 

xtraor- 

vicin- 

)regon 
)es  of 
)  order- 
la  tal 

rds  of 


the  inhabitants.  It  showed  itself  in  the  form  of 
an  infectious  fever,  which  threw  the  individual 
into  a  state  of  tremor,  and  produced  such  a 
burning  heat  tliroughoui  the  body,  that  the 
])atient  would  sometimes  cast  hims(df  into  the 
water  to  obtain  relief.  The  population  of  en- 
tire villages  was  cut  off  by  this  terrible  pesti- 
lence. Olher  villages  were  burnt  in  order  to 
arrest  the  infection  which  would  have  arisen 
from  the  ])ile  of  dead  bodies  that  were  left  im- 
buried.  During  this  fearful  visitation,  which 
attacked  the  colonists  as  well  as  the  natives, 
Dr.  McLaughlin  displayed  the  most  heroic  phi- 
lanthrophy,  in  his  laborious  attention  to  the 
sick  and  the  dying.  The  Indians  superstitiously 
attributed  this  scourge  to  a  quarrel  between 
some  ajj:ents  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  and 
an  American  captain,  which  led  the  latter  to 
throw  a  species  of  charm  into  the  river  by  way 
of  revenge.  The  fever,  however,  made  its  ap- 
jM^arance  annually,  though  in  a  less  malignant 
form  ;  and  the  inhabil.'ints  have  discovered  both 
its  j)nnentive  and  its  remedy.  TIk^  smallpox  is 
the  principnl  disease  that  alarms  the  natives; 
tliey  are  in  continual  dread  of  it,  and  imagining 
that  they  have  a  short  time  to  live,  they  no 
longer  build  the  large  and  convenient  cabins  to 


I 


24 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


I'M- 


!       V 


PP 


It  Mi' 


which  they  were  formerly  accustomed.  Not- 
withstanding the  ravages  above-mentioned,  the 
population  of  Oregon  amounts  to  nearly  110,000 
souls,  residing  chiefly  in  the  north.  This  part 
of  the  country,  fortunately,  escaped  the  diseases 
which  decimated  the  inhabitants  of  Willamette 
and  the  Columbia,  and  still  rages  from  time  to 
time  in  the  south. 

The  tribes  of  this  territory  dilTer  much  in 
character  and  personal  appearance.  The  sav- 
figes  who  frequent  the  coast,  especially  towards 
the  north,  are  of  a  much  more  barbarous  and 
ferocious  temperament  than  those  of  the  in- 
terior ;  nor  are  they  less  dissimilar  in  their 
manners,  customs,  language,  and  external  fea- 
tures. The  tribes  and  languages  are  almost  as 
numerous  as  the  localities.  From  twenty-five 
to  thirty  difl'erent  idioms  have  been  distinguish- 
ed among  them,  a  circumstance  which  increases 
in  no  small  degree  the  hibors  of  the  missionary. 
In  the  inteiior  of  the  country,  the  natives  are  of 
a  mild  and  soeial)le  disposition,  though  proud 
and  vindictive  ;  intelligent  though  inclined  to 
indolence.  Their  belief  in  the  innnoi'lality  of 
the  soul  consists  in  admitting  a  future  existciice, 
happy  or  unhappy,  that  is,  a  state  of  plenty  or 
want,   according  to  the  merits   or  demerits  of 


* 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


.  Not- 
lod,  the 
110,000 
is  part 
iiseases 
amcttc 
ime  to 

uch  in 
lie.  sav- 

0  wards 
us  and 
ihe   in- 

1  their 
al  Ica- 
lost  as 
ity-fivc 
iguish- 

roases 

lonary. 

iwc.  of 

proud 

uod  to 

ility  of 

StLiiUO, 

»nty  or 
rits  of 


cvrry  individual.  The  morals  of  tliis  sava<:;e 
race  can  scarcely  be  termed  corrupt,  consider- 
ing!^ their  very  limited  means  of  "  cnhghtcnmnit,'" 
Tiiey  have  distinct  id(\as  of  ri<j:ht  and  wron^j^, 
and  recognise  many  leading  principles  of  the 
natural  law.  Thel't,  .adultery,  homicide,  and 
lying,  are  condi^mned  as  criminal,  and  if  pol}'- 
gamy  is  tolerated,  it  is  not  approved  ;  it  is  prin- 
cipally confined  to  the  chiefs,  b}^  way  of  main- 
taining peace  with  the  neighboring  nations. 
Laxity  of  morals  is  far  short  of  what  might  be 
supposed  inevitable,  in  their  rude  and  uneducat- 
ed state.  Modesty,  indcH'd,  would  require  more  ; 
])ut  its  rules  .are  for  the  most  p.art  respected, 
liut  litth^  intercourse  is  carried  on  among  young 
persons  of  different  sex,  .and  even  in  regard  to 
matrimonial  unions,  the  engagement  is  .arrang- 
ed by  the  parents  of  the  p.art  ies.  When  .a  man 
of  comfortable  me.ans  takes  to  himself  a  wif(% 
he  is  obliged  to  c()mj)ensate  the  parents  of  the 
latter  by  considera])U'  presents.  But  upon  the 
death  of  tlie  woman,  these  presents  may  be  re- 
claimed. \)^  in  consecpience  of  harsh  treatment 
she  ])uts  an  end  to  her  existence,  the  circum- 
stance rellc^cts  disgrace  upon  tli(^  husi)and,  who 
is  eompelled,  in  this  case,  to  propitiate  her 
parents  ])y  .additional  gifts. 


M  ■ 


UG 


O  R  E  (J  ( )  N       M  1  H  S  1  O  J«  H  . 


Hliii 


inip 


Most  of  the  work  among  these  savages  is 
performed  by  shives,  who  are  well  treated,  ex- 
cept in  case  of  okl  age  or  other  inability,  when, 
they  are  left  to  perish  of  want.  Besides  those 
who  are  born  in  this  unhappy  state,  there  are 
others  who  become  so,  by  the  fortunes  of  war. 
All  prisoners  are  considered  slaves  by  their 
conquerors,  though,  in  general,  only  their  chil- 
dren experience  this  hard  lot.  Wars  are  some- 
times engaged  in  for  the  express  purpose  of  ac- 
quiring slaves,  which  is  considered  a  great 
advantage  among  the  savages.  The  white 
population  have  little  to  fear  from  their  attacks, 
except  on  the  northern  coast,  where  life  is  far 
from  being  safe,  and  where  the  natives,  in  some 
cases  anthropophagi,  do  not  hesitate  to  feast 
upon  the  flesh  of  their  prisoners. 

Throughout  the  whole  country,  the  habita- 
tions of  the  Indians  are  rather  huts  than  houses, 
from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet  long,  pro])ortion- 
ably  wide,  and  verging  into  a  conical  form. 
Cross  pieces  of  wood  are  suspended  in  the  in- 
terior for  the  purpose  of  drying  their  salmon 
and  other  articles  of  food.  Fire  is  kindled  on 
the  ground  in  the  centre  of  the  cabin,  the  smoke 
escaping  through  the  roof  above.  The  dres 
the  Indians  is   not  more   recherche,   than   1 


of 


OREGON      i>r  I  f<S  roN  s. 


i>7 


some 
feast 


dwcllin*j;s.  Formerly,  tlii^y  cl<  .lied  llienisci  'S 
A  cry  comfortably  and  iieat'y,  \vith  the  lurs 
Avliich  they  possessed,  but  sinc(^  the  trade  in 
skins  has  become  so  extensive,  the  natives  ol' 
Ore«i:on  are  much  worse  provided  I'or  in  this 
respect,  and  the  poor  can  scarcely  protect  them- 
selves ajrainst  the  severity  of  the  seaH<ons.  To 
this  circumstance,  in  part,  is  attributed  the  de- 
crease of  the  population,  which  has  been  ob- 
served within  a  few  years  past.  Hunting  and 
fishin;^  arc  the  resources  on  which  the  Indian 
depends  for  subsistence.  His  principal  food  is 
salmon,  sturgeon,  and  otlier  kinds  of  fish,  with 
the  ducks,  wild  turkeys  and  hares,  in  which  the 
country  abounds.  The  fruits  of  spontaneous 
growth,  and  particularly  the  root  of  the  cammas, 
also  afford  them  nourishment. 

Among  the  aborigines  of  Oregon  there  is  no 
trace  of  any  religious  worship.  They  have  a 
belief  Avhich  consists  in  certain  obscure  tradi- 
tions ;*  but  no  external  forms  of  religion  are 
visible  among  them.     The  juggler  exercises  his 


*  Tlio  Chinook  and  Kilamnko  tribes  on  tho  coast  call  their 
most  powerful  god  by  tho  name  of  Ikani,  and  to  him  they 
ascribe  tho  creation  of  all  things.  Tho  god  who  mado  the 
Columbia  river  and  tho  lish  in  it  they  call  Italupus. — Expl. 
Erp.,  vol.  v.,  p.  liy. 


28 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


I  -i!li 


yf 


If  lite 


profession,  though  it  is  ahnost  universally  done 
in  behalf  of  the  sick,  for  the  purpose  of  curing 
them.  If  he  fail  in  his  attempt,  he  is  suspected 
of  having  used  some  evil  influence,  and  is  made 
to  pay  the  forfeit  of  his  supposed  ofl^ence. 
Though  nearly  all  these  tribes,  of  whom  we  are 
speaking,  possess  no  particular  form  of  worship, 
they  are  naturally  predisposed  in  favor  of  the 
Christian  religion,  especially  those  who  live  in 
the  interior.  We  shall  find  the  most  ample  t.vi- 
dence  of  this  in  the  sequel  of  our  narrative. 

At  the  period  when  the  two  Catholic  mission- 
aries arrived  in  Oregon  territory,  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  possessed  from  ten  to  twelve 
establishments  for  the  fur-trade,  in  each  of 
which  there  was  a  certain  number  of  Cana- 
dians professing  our  holy  faith,  and  in  addition 
to  these  there  were  twenty-six  Catholic  families 
at  Willamette,  and  four  at  Cowlitz.  It  is  easy 
to  imagine  to  how  many  dangers  they  had  been 
exposed  of  losing  their  faith,  deprived  as  they 
were  of  religious  instruction  and  of  every  ex- 
ternal incentive  to  the  practice  of  piety,  and 
surrounded  by  individuals  who  were  not  in- 
active in  their  eftbrts  to  withdraw  them  from 
the  fold  of  Catholicity. 

The  Methodist  missionaries  had  already  form- 


il. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


29 


ly  clone 
curing 
^pected 
s  made 
)frence. 
we  are 
orship, 
of  the 
live  in 
>le  t.vi- 
^e. 

lission- 
ludson 
twelve 
^ch    of 
Cana- 
dition 
milies 
5  easy 
I  been 
5  they 
•y  ex- 
,  and 
)t   in- 
from 

form- 


ed two  establishments,  one  in  the  Willamette, 
whore  they  had  a  school,  and  another  about  fifty 
miles  from  the  cascade.  An  Anglican  minister, 
who  resided  at  Vancouver  two  years,  left  it  be- 
fore the  arrival  of  the  Catholic  clergy.  The 
Presbyterians  had  a  missionary  post  at  Walla 
Walla,  and  among  the  Nez-perces,  and  in  1830 
tliev  established  a  third  station  on  the  river 
Spokane,  a  few  days'  journey  south  of  Colville, 
In  1810,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Lee  brought  with  him 
fellow-laborers  for  the  vineyard,  with  their 
wives  and  children,  and  a  number  of  husband- 
men and  mechanics.  It  was  a  real  colony. 
The  preachers  stationed  themselves  at  the  most 
important  posts,  as  at  Willamette  Falls,  the 
Clatsops  below  fort  George,  and  Nisqualy,  and 
thence  visited  the  other  settlements :  they  even 
penetrated  as  far  as  Whitby.  Nothing  short  of 
the  most  arduous  toil  and  constant  vigilance  on 
the  part  of  the  Catholic  clergymen,  could  have 
withdrawn  so  many  individuals  from  the  danger 
of  spiritual  seduction.  Our  two  missionaries 
were  indefatigable  in  their  exertions,  almost 
always  journeying  from  one  post  to  another,  to 
begin  or  to  consolidate  the  good  work  they  had 
in  view. 


S!li' 


30 


ORKGON       MISSIONS. 


|i« 


I  1 


ill 


I' 


Vancouver  was  tlio  first  place  that  experi- 
enced tlie  liappy  inliuence  of  tlicir  apostolical 
zeal.  Many  of  the  settlers  had  lost  sijj^lit  of  the 
relij^ious  principles  they  had  imhihed  in  their 
youth,  and  their  wives  were  either  paij^ans  in 
belief,  or,  if  baptized,  but  superficially  ac(iuaint- 
ed  with  the  nature  of  that  holy  rite.  In  this 
state  of  things,  which  had  given  rise  to  many 
disorders,  the  missionaries  found  it  necessary  to 
spend  several  months  at  Vancouver,  and  to 
labor  with  united  energies  in  instructing  the 
people,  baptizing  children,  performing  mar- 
riages, and  inspiring  a  greater  respect  for  the 
Christian  virtues.  With  this  view  they  re- 
mained at  Vancouver  until  the  month  of  Janu- 
ary, 1839,  when  Mr.  Blanchet  visited  the  Cana- 
dians at  Willamette.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
describe  the  joy  which  his  arrival  awakened 
among  them.  They  had  already  erected  a 
chapel  seventy  feet  in  length,  which  was  dedi- 
cated by  the  missionary  under  the  invocation  of 
St.  Paul.  His  ministry  at  this  place  was  at- 
tended with  the  most  signal  success.  Men, 
women  and  children,  all  seemed  to  appreciate 
the  presence  of  one  who  had  come,  as  a  mes- 
senger from  Heaven,  to  diffuse  among  them  the 


OREGON       MISSION!^, 


31 


cxprri- 
>stolical 
t  of  the 
n  tlicir 
jans  ill 
([uaint- 
Iii  this 
o  many 
isaiy  to 
and   to 
ng   tlic 
mar- 
for  the 
ley   re- 
f  Janu- 
'  C ana- 
cult  to 
akcncd 
cted   a 
s  dedi- 
Ltion  of 
/as  at- 
Men, 
rcciate 
a  mes- 
em  the 


consolations  of  rcli^j^ion.  ]]e('or(^  his  dc^p.'ii'ture, 
Mr.  ])laiH'liot  rehabilitated  a  ^ood  nundxT  of 
marria2:('S,  and  baptized  sfiventy-four  j)ers()ns. 
In  April  he  started  ibr  Cowlitz,  where  lie  re- 
mained until  tlie  latter  end  of  June.  Here  also 
his  eilbrts  were  most  sueeessl'ul.  lie;  had  the 
happiness  of  instructing^  twelve  sava<j^es  of 
Pusj^et  sound,  who  had  come  fi'om  a  distance  of 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  order  to  see  and 
hear  liim.  It  was  on  this  occasion  he  conceived 
the  idea  of  the  Catholic  ladder,  a  form  of  in- 
struction which  represents  on  paper  the  various 
truths  and  mysteries  of  religion  in  their  chron- 
ological order,  and  which  has  j)roved  vastly 
beneficial  in  imparting  catechetical  instruction 
among  the  natives  of  Oregon.  These;  twelve 
Indians  having  remained  at  Cowlitz  long  enough 
to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  principal  myste- 
ries of  our  faith,  and  to  understand  the  use  of 
the  ladder  which  Mr.  Blanchet  gave  them,  set 
about  instructing  their  tribe  as  soon  as  they  re- 
turned home,  and  not  w'ithout  considerable  suc- 
cess ;  for  jMr.  IJl.vuichet,  the  following  y(\ar,  met, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Whitby  island,  with  several 
Indians  who  had  never  seen  a  priest,  and  yet 
were  acquainted  with  the  sign  of  the  cross,  and 
knew  several  pious  canticles. 


32 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


:,!i  i! 


f| 


i  I 


While  Mr.  Blanchet  was  at  Cowlitz,*  his  fel- 
low-laborer visited  Nisqualy,  where  he  found 
the  savaj^cs  in  the  best  dispositions.  Having 
but  a  short  time,  however,  to  pass  amonj2^  them, 
he  merely  laid  the  foundation  of  a  more  im- 
portant mission,  and  returned  to  Vancouver  by 
the  month  of  .Tune, — the  time  when  the  agents 
from  New  Caledonia,  Upper  Columbia,  and 
other  dilferent  posts  assemble  there  to  deposite 
their  furs.  After  spending  a  month  at  Van- 
couver, availing  himself  of  the  favorable  oppor- 
tunity for  instruction  which  the  concourse  of 
visiters  allbrded,  he  set  out  for  Upper  Columbia, 
where  he  visited  Walla  Walla,  Okanagan  and 
Colville,  ba2)tizing  all  the  children  that  were 
brought  to  him  in  the  course  of  his  journey. 
He  spent  three  months  in  this  excursion,  during 
which  Mr.  Hlanchet  attended  to  the  wants  of 
the   faithful    at    Vancouver,    Willamette,    and 

*  Spoukiiicj  of  tho  fiirni  bolonginjr  to  tho  Hudson  Day  Com- 
piiny  at  Cowlitz,  Capt.  Wilkes  says:  *'  Tho  groumls  appear  well 
prrparod,  and  wcro  covered  with  a  luxuriant  crop  of  wheat, 
(May,  1841).  At  the  farther  end  of  the  prairio  was  to  bo  seen 
a  settlement,  with  its  orchards,  &,c.,  and  between  tho  trees,  tho 
chapel  and  parsonajjo  of  the  Catholic  mission  fjavo  an  air  of 
civilization  to  tiie  whole.  The  de^rrre  of  projrress  resembles  that 
of  a  Bettlement  of  several  years'  standing  in  our  wcateru  states," 
&.C. — Explor.  Kxped.,  vol.  iv.,  p.  315. 


:t 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


{VS 


*  his  fcl- 
he  found 
Having 
)ng  them, 
norc  im- 
3Uvor  hy 
e  agents 
^ia,    and 

deposite 
at  Van- 
[c  oppor- 
ourse  of 
ohimhia, 
gan  and 
at  were 
journey. 
I,  during 
vants  of 
te,    and 

FJay  CoMi- 
ppoar  well 
of  whcttt, 
to  bo  scou 
trees,  the 
an  air  of 
nblcH  that 
11  states," 


Cowlitz.  Though  these  stations  afforded  ample 
occupation  for  a  missionary,  Mr.  B.  paid  another 
visit  to  Nisqualy,  where  he  was  again  met  hy  a 
considerable  number  of  savages  from  Puget 
sound,  who  hastened  to  Nisqualy  as  soon  as 
they  heard  of  his  arrival,  and  listened  with  joy 
and  profit  to  the  words  of  life. 

In  October  the  two  missionaries  met  at  Van- 
couver,  which   was   their   place   of    residence 
through  the   courtesy  of  James  Douglas,  Esq., 
and  on  the  lOtli  of  the  same  month  they  again 
separated,  Mr.  Blanchet  starting  for  Willamette, 
and  Mr.  Demers  for  Cowlitz.     Their  object  was 
to  spiMid  the  winter  months  at  these  points  in 
the  further   instruction  of  their  Hocks.     During 
the  first  year  they  baptized  three  hundred  and 
nine  persons.    The  following  spring  Mr.  Demers 
visited  the  Chinouks,  a  tribe  living  below  fort 
George.     From   the   Chinouks    he    n^paired   to 
Vancouver,  to  meet  the   concourse   of  traders 
who  assemble  then'  in  tlu^  month  of  .Tune,  alYer 
which  he  set  out  for  his  stations  at  Walla  Walla, 
Okanagan  and  Colville,  as  he  had  done  tln^  pre- 
cethng  year.     About  this  time  Father  D(^  Smet, 
8.  .T.,  was  sent  on  a  visit  by  his  superior  to  the 
I'hithead  Indians,  who  had  im})lored  this  favor 
by  repeated  de])utations  from  their  country  to 


34 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


nte;'! 


the  bishop  of  St.  Louis.  lie  found,  to  his  j^reat 
surprise,  that  Oregon  already  possessed  two 
Catholic  missionaries  ;  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Demers, 
informing  him  th.at  he  w^ould  return  to  St. 
Louis,  according  to  the  order  of  his  superiors, 
to  procure  fui'ther  aid  lor  the  promising  mis- 
sions of  the  Uocky  Mountains. 

Mr.  Blanchet  having  visited  the  people  at 
Nisqualy,  was  soon  called  away  by  a  special 
embassy  from  the  Indians  of  Puget  sound,  who 
requested  his  ministry.  It  was  on  this  occasion 
at  Whitby  that  he  met  with  the  savages  already 
acquainted  with  certain  practices  of  the  Catho- 
lic church,  though  they  had  neviT  seen  a  mis- 
sionary.* His  labors  among  the  Indians  at  this 
place  were  most  consoling.  A  large  cross  was 
erected  as  a  rallying-point,  many  children  were 

*  Of  tho  Catholic  mission  at  Pciin's  cove,  between  Whitby's 
Island  and  tho  main,  Mr.  Wilkes  ways:  *•  It  (the  island)  is  in 
possession  of  the  Sacket  tribe,  who  have  hero  a  permanent  set- 
tlement, consist iiifr  of  \ar\To  and  well-built  lod^jes  of  tind)er  and 
planks.  .  .  Tiiis  whole  tribe  are  Catholics,  and  liavo  much 
uflToction  and  reverence  for  their  instructors."  After  speaking  of 
the  jrood  fcdinjr  promoted  nmoufj  tho  Indian»  by  tho  Catholic 
clerijymen,  ho  continues:  "  JJcsidrs  inculcatiufj  jjood  morals  and 
peace,  tho  priests  are  induciufj  the  Indians  to  cultivate  the  soil, 
and  there  was  an  enclosure  of  some  three  or  four  acres,  in  which 
potatoes  and  beans  were  growing." 


OREGON       IMlSSIONS. 


)  his  j^reat 
'sscd    two 
\  Demors, 
rii   to    St. 
superiors, 
ising  mis- 
people  at 
a  special 
Dund,  who 
s  occasion 
es  already 
he  Catho- 
en  a  mis- 
ms  at  this 
cross  w^as 
h'eii  were 

ecu  Whitby's 
0  iHluiul)  is  in 
jrnmnent  set- 
>f  tiliihcr  uiul 
J  Imvo  much 
r  speaking  of 
tlio  Catholic 
k1  morals  and 
/ate  the  Roil, 
res,  iu  which 


baptized,  and  two  tribes,  who  w^ere  at  war  with 
each  otlier,  were  reconciled.  The  Catholic  h/d- 
dcr  was  passed  from  one  nation  to  another,  and 
all  j)rayed  to  be  instructed  still  more  fully  in 
the  truths  of  salvation.  After  baptizing  one 
hundred  and  four  persons,  the  missionaries  re- 
turned to  Vancouver,  and  thence  repaired  to 
their  respective  stations  during  the  winter  sea- 
son. A  wide  field  was  here  opened  to  their 
zeal,  not  only  among  the  catechumens  who 
solicited  baptism,  but  among  the  settlers,  who 
were  anxious  to  repair  by  their  fervor  the 
nc^jjlect  of  former  years.  In  the  summer  of 
IHIO  the  Columbia  was  visited  by  Captain 
Jkdcher,  from  England,  for  the  purpose  of  sur- 
veying the  river. 

In  the  spring  of  18  U,  Mr.  Demers,  after 
giving  the  usual  mission  at  Vancouver,  went  to 
Niscpialy,  and  with  the  aid  of  Indian  guides 
jx'netrated  as  far  as  Fort  Langley  on  the  river 
Fraser.  Hen;  he  was  surrounded  by  an  im- 
mense number  of  savages,  to  whom  he  an- 
nounced without  delay  the  tidings  of  salvation. 
His  appeal  was  not  in  vain,  all  permitting  their 
children  to  be  baptized,  and  soliciting  the  resi- 
dence" of  a  priest  among  them.  Seven  hundred 
children  received,  on  this  occasion,  the  sacra- 


J 


36 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


A     ' 


w 


ment  of  roji^cnoration.  While  Mr.  Dcmers  was 
thus  occupied  in  gathering  the  first  I'ruits  of  tlic 
mission  at  Puget  sound,  Mr.  Bianchot  was 
equally  engaged  at  Willamette,  Vancouver, 
Cowlitz  and  the  Cascades.  At  the  last  men- 
tioned place  several  children  were  baptized, 
and  a  number  of  adults  instructed  in  the  faith. 

During  the  year  1841,  Oregon  Terill^ory  was 
visited  by  two  expeditions,  one  from  England 
under  Sir  George  Simpson,  and  the  other  from 
the  U.  States,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Wilkes.* 


f  1 


I  i- 


*  "  Wo  stopped  for  a  few  hours  at  tho  Catholic  mission,"  says 
Capt.  Wilkes,  "to  call  upon  tho  Rev.  Mr.  IJachelot  (Hlanchct), 
to  whom  I  had  a  note  of  introduction  from  Dr.  McLauj^hlin  ;  ho 
received  mo  with  great  kindness.  Mr.  IJ.  is  hero  settled  among 
his  flock,  and  is  doing  great  good  to  tho  settlers  in  ministering  to 
their  temporal  as  well  as  spiritual  wants.  .  .  .  Mr.  Drayton, 
Michael,  and  myself,  dined  with  Mr.  B.  on  oatmeal  porridge, 
venison,  strawherrics  and  cream.  His  hospitality  was  tendered 
with  good  and  kind  feelings,  and  with  a  gentlemanly  deportment 
that  spoko  much  in  his  favor,  and  made  us  regret  to  leave  his 
company  so  soon."  Mr.  Wilkes  represents  the  missions  hero  and 
tho  farms  of  tho  Canadians,  in  a  thriving  state.  IIo  has  incor- 
rectly given  tho  name  liachrlct  to  Mr.  IJIanchet,  superior  of  tho 
Oregon  mission,  who  was  recently  consecrated  vicar-apostolic  of 
that  country. —  Explor.  LV/k,  vol.  4,  p.  .'J.'iO. 

Of  tho  Methodist  mission  at  Willamette,  ]Mr.  Wilkes  says  * 
<*  About  all  tlio  promises  of  this  mission  there  was  an  evident 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


37 


mors  was 
its  of  the 
:hot  was 
ancouvcr, 
ast  men- 
baptized, 
lie  faith, 
if^ory  was 
England 
ther  from 
f  Captain 


Faithful  to  liis  word,  Father  De  Smet  return- 
ed amonj?  the  Flatheads  in  the  autumn  of  the 
same  year,  accompanied  by  th(^  liev.  Fathers 
Point  and  Mei)y:arini,  and  tliree  lay  brothers. 
The  mission  of  St.  Mary's  was  at  once  estab- 
lislied,  and  tiie  most  abundant  harvest  collected, 
(s(^e  liuhan  sketches).  About  the  same  time 
Messrs.  Blnncliet  and  Demers  retired  to  their 
usual  winter  stations,  where  they  had  the  plea- 
sure of  learning  tliat  two  other  missionari(\s, 
Messrs.  John  B.  Bolduc  and  Ant.  Lanjflois  had 


iission,  says 
t  (IJluuchct), 
jauj^hliii ;  lio 
?ttlctl  ainon;r 
uiuistcrinpf  to 
Mr.  Drayton, 
cal  porrulgo, 
was  teiulcrod 
y  tloportnicnt 

to  leave  hirt 
ions  hero  and 

0  luiH  incor- 
ipcrior  of  tho 
r-apostolic  of 

^VilUcH  Rays  * 
.4  an  ovidcnt 


want  of  t!)o  attention  reciuirrd  to  keep  tliinfjs  in  repair,  and  an 
ahsenec  of  neatness  th.it  I  refjretted  niucli  to  witness.  We  had 
the  expectation  of  }rettin{r  u  siglit  of  tho  Indians  on  whom  they 
wore  inrulcatin}r  jjood  habits,  and  tcacliing  tijo  word  of  (Jod:  bnt 
with  tlio  exception  of  four  Indian  servantH,  wo  saw  none  since 
leavinjr  the  Catholic  mission." — Ihid.  p.  351,2.  At  this  latter 
juissioji  ho  numbers  four  or  five  hundred  natives.  Tho  Method- 
ists had  a  school  of  twenty  pupils  at  some  distance. 

Near  Port  Orchard  the  chapel  of  tho  Catholic  mission  is  172 
feet  \ou<r  by  72  wide.  "  Many  of  the  natives,"  says  Mr.  Wilkes, 
•♦  are  capable  of  sayiiifj  their  prayers  and  tellinfi;  their  beads,  and 
Boine  wer<^  met  with  who  could  sing  »oino  Catholic  hymns  in 
Ihfir  own    lanjjuajre." 

Of  the  Protrstant  missions  at  Clatsop,  Capt.  Wilkes  observes  : 
*'  There  appeared  to  mo  to  be  little  opportunity  for  exorcisinjr 
their  ministrrial  caIli^J,^  thoujrh  I  understood  afterwards  that  at 
particular  seasons  u  number  of  iudians  collected  to  hear  them." 
—Vol.  iv.,  p.  322. 


ii 


38 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


I  fil 


III 


i   I 


I 


set  out  from  Canada  to  join  them  in  their  labor 
of  love.  During  the  winter,  Mr.  Blanchet  nar- 
rowly escaped  a  watery  grave,  in  ascending  the 
river  Willamette  on  a  visit  to  his  friend  Mr. 
Demers.  In  the  spring  of  1842,  Father  De 
Smet  unexpectedly  made  his  appearance  at 
Vancouver,  after  a  providential  escape  from 
shipwreck,  in  descending  the  river  Columbia. 
Fortunately  he  had  left  the  barge  in  which  his 
fellow-travellers  and  his  baggage  were ;  and 
by  this  means  he  was  saved,  while  his  effects 
and  five  of  his  companions  were  swallowed  up 
in  the  rapids. 

The  three  missionaries  met  together,  first  at 
Willamette,  and  then  at  Vancouver,  and  formed 
their  plans  for  a  concert  of  action  in  the  great 
work  of  evangelizing  the  natives  of  Oregon. 
The  Indians  of  New  Caledonia  had  repeatedly 
asked  for  Catholic  missionaries,  and  Mr.  Demers 
started  for  that  country.  Having  embarked  in 
a  boat  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  he  reached 
his  destination  after  a  travel  of  two  months. 
The  journey,  though  fatiguing,  was  most  con- 
soling in  its  results.  lie  was  received  by  the 
savages  with  open  arms,  and  it  is  impossible  to 
describe  the  ardor  with  which  they  drank  in 
the  words  of  heavenly  life  as  they  fell  from  his 


I 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


39 


sir  labor 
•het  nar- 
iding  the 
iend  Mr. 
Lther   De 
ranee    at 
ipe   from 
'olumbia. 
vhich  his 
rere  ;  and 
liis  effects 
lowed  up 

• 

3r,  first  at 
nd  formed 
the  great 
f  Oregon, 
repeatedly 
r.  Demers 
barked  in 
ic  reached 
o  months, 
most  con- 
ed by  the 
possible  to 
'  drank  in 
11  from  his 


lips.  Tlie  Indians  in  this  region  appear  to  be 
no  loss  predisposed  to  receive  the  triUhs  of 
Christianity  than  the  Flatheads,  who  have 
evinced  a  peculiar  propensity  to  virtue. 

Wliile  Mr.  Domers  was  so  successfullv  occu- 
])ied    among    the    tribes    of    New    Caledonia, 
Father  De  Smet  was  bending  his  steps  back  to 
St.  Louis,  to  procure  additional  laborers  for  the 
mission.     Two  clergymen,  the  Ivev.  Fathers  De 
Vos  and  Iloekcn,  with  three   lay  brothers,  were 
immediately  sent  out,  but  they  did   not    reach 
their  destination  until  the  autumn  of  1813.     Mr. 
De  Smet  was  at  the  same  time  despatched  to 
Europe,  to  make  further  provision  for  the  con- 
version and  civilization  of  Oregon.     In  this  way 
Mr.   Blanehct  found   himself  charged  with  the 
care  of  all  the  stations,  except  those  among  the 
Flatheads,  and  upper  Indians  of  the   Columbia, 
and  was  continually  moving  about  to  meet  the 
wants   of    the    various   missions.     Fortunately 
]M(^ssrs.  Langlois  and  Bolduc,  after  a  journey  of 
one   year  sinc(*    their  departure    from  Canada, 
arrived  at  Willamette  on  the   10th  of  Septem- 
ber.    They  at  once  set  themselves  to  work,  Mr. 
Lani^lois   remaining   at  Willamette   during  the 
winter  season,  while  Mr.  Blanehct  was  at  Van- 


it! 


Hi 


40 


OREGON       MISSIONS, 


'  k, 


I  ■ 


; 


itl; 

i 


couver,  and  Mr.  Bolduc  at  Cowlitz.  In  the 
sprinj^  of  1843,  Mr.  Demers  returned  from  New 
Caledonia,  much  exhausted  by  the  labors  he  had 
undergone,  and  the  privations  he  had  suffered 
during  his  journey ;  but  these  causes  were  not 
capable  of  diminishing  his  missionary  ardor. 
His  fellow-laborers  and  himself  found  ample 
occupation,  during  the  summer  months,  at  the 
three  principal  stations,  and  in  fact  such  was 
the  call  upon  their  services  at  these  posts,  and 
in  the  vicinity,  in  consequence  of  the  increasing 
numbers  of  their  flock,  that  they  were  unable 
to  visit  the  more  distant  points,  and  were 
obliged  to  defer  to  a  later  period  the  execution 
of  their  design,  for  some  time  contemplated,  of 
forming  a  mission  at  Whitby. 

In  addition  to  his  numerous  cares,  Mr.  Blan- 
chet  undertook  the  erection  of  an  academy  at 
Willamette,  for  which  funds  had  been  given  by 
a  Mr.  Joseph  Laroque  of  Paris,  and  which  is 
called  St.  Joseph's  College,  in  honor  of  that 
gentleman. 

A  teacher  of  French,  and  another  of  the 
English  language,  were  employed  in  the  institu- 
tion, which  was  opened  in  the  month  of  October, 
and  numbered   from  the  very  commencement 


OREGON       MISSIONS, 


41 


In  the 
I'om  New 
rs  he  had 
.  suffered 
were  not 
ry  ardor, 
id  ample 
IS,  at  the 
5uch  was 
:)osts,  and 
ncreasing 
e  unable 
nd  were 
execution 
:)lated,  of 

Mr.  Blan- 

ademy  at 

given  by 

which  is 

r  of  that 

r  of  the 
le  institu- 
'  October, 
enccment 


twenty-oi^ht  boarders.  Rev.  Mr.  Langlois, 
who  attended  to  the  Willamette  mission,  also 
suj)erint ended  the  Academy. 

About  a  year  after,  a  public  examination  of 
the  students  was  held,  and  the  inhabitants  who 
attended,  appeared  much  gratified  at  the  pro- 
gress made  by  the  pupils  in  the  study  of  French 
and  English,  in  writing,  arithmetic,  and  other 
branches. 

In  the  spring  of  1841,  Mr.  Blanchet  withdrew 
Mr.  Domers  from  Cowlitz  and  placed  him  at 
tli(^  Fft/ls  or  Oregon  City,  an  important  post, 
which  contained  already  sixty  houses.  The 
parsonage  wIkm'c  ]Mr.  Dcmers  resided  could  not 
be  rented  at  less  than  ten  dollars  a  month.  Mr. 
IJoldiic  remained  at  Cowlitz,  and  Mr.  Blanchet 
went  from  one  station  to  another,  to  ascertain  and 
provide  for  the  wants  of  the  difterent  localities. 

Daring  the  vacation  of  the  college  Mr.  Blan- 
chet remained  at  Willamette,  to  replace  Mr. 
Langlois,  wlio  had  set  out  upon  a  visit  to  the 
Jesuit  fathers,  among  the  Flatheads,  with  a 
view  to  obtain  some  assistance  for  Ids  school. 
Mr.  Dcmers  was  at  this  time  at  Vancouver. 
Th(^  missionaries,  not  aware  of  Mr.  De  Smet's 
voyage  to  Europe,  had  ])een  long  and  anxiously 
awaiting  his  arrival  in  Oregon.     About  fifteen 


•ill 


Hi 


Mi; 


42 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


months  had  elapsed  since  his  departure  for  the 
east,  and  the  vessel  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, Avhich  had  reached  Oregon  in  the  sprinm', 
brought  no  intelligence  respecting  his  move- 
ments. Under  these  circumstances,  Mr.  Blan- 
chet  and  his  companions  began  to  be  alarmed, 
when,  in  the  midst  of  their  apprehensions,  the 
indefatible  Jesuit  made  his  appearance  sudden- 
ly at  Vancouver,  about  the  beginning  of  August. 
On  the  9th  of  January,  he  had  left  Belgium, 
with  four  priests.  Rev.  Fatliers  Accolti,  Nobili, 
Ravalli,  and  Vercruysse  and  Huybrechts  a  lay 
brother,  and  six  religious  ladies  of  Notre  Dame 
of  Namur,  and  after  doubling  Cape  Horn  the 
vessel  touched  at  Valparaiso  and  Lima,  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  some  information  regard- 
ing the  entrance  of  the  Columbia  River  and  to 
leave  a  part  of  a  cargo.  Not  having  received 
a  satisfactory  answer  to  their  Inquiries,  they  set 
out  again  for  the  north,  and  continued  their 
course  until  they  found  themselves  in  latitude 
46°  19',  and  longitude  123°  54'.  Here  the  cap- 
tain passed  three  days  in  discovering  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  which  was  at  length  made  known  to 
him  by  the  sight  of  a  vessel  going  out.  Though 
it  was  growing  dark,  he  immediately  despatched 
an  officer  towards  the  sail  to  make  inquiries  con- 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


48 


re  for  the 
Bay  Com- 
he  sprini^*, 
lis  move- 
Mr.  Bl  an- 
al armed, 
sions,  the 
e  sudden- 
•f  August. 
Belgium, 
d,  Nobili, 
hts  a  lay 
tre  Dame 
Horn  the 
a,  for  the 
>n  regard- 
er  and  to 
:  received 
;,  they  set 
ued  their 
latitude 
i  the  cap- 
he  mouth 
known  to 
Though 
^.spatched 
liries  con- 


cerning the  mode  of  entering  the  Columbia  ;  but 
he  did  not  return  with  the  required  informa- 
tion, and  the  captain,  being  thrown  upon  his 
own  resources,  at  once  made  preparations  for 
entering  the  river,  and  proceeded  from  east  to 
west  through  a  channel  altogether  unknown  to 
him.  It  w^as  the  31st  of  July,  feast  of  St. 
Ignatius  of  Loyola.  As  he  advanced,  by  the 
soundings,  he  found  that  the  vessel  was  in  very 
shallow  water,  having  only  two  and  a  half  feet 
under  her  keel,  although  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  mainland.  At  this  moment,  the 
safety  of  the  vessel  and  crew  seemed  hopeless ; 
but  w;  ile  shipwreck  was  staring  them  in  the 
face,  they  fell  unexpectedly  into  deeper  sound- 
ings ;  the  bar  was  crossed,  and  two  hours  after, 
the  vessel  anchored  off  Fort  George  or  Astoria* 

*  On  tho  bar  of  the  Columbia  River  occurred  the  wreck  of  the 
Peacock,  one  of  tho  vessels  attached  to  the  Exploring  Expedition. 
A  thrilling  account  of  this  event  is  given  in  Capt.  Wilkes'  Narra- 
tive. Of  the  bar  itself  he  says :  "  Mere  description  can  give 
little  idea  of  the  terrors  of  tho  bar  of  the  Columbia  ;  all  who  have 
Been  it  have  spoken  of  the  wildness  of  the  scene,  and  the  inces- 
sant roar  of  tho  waters,  representing  it  as  one  of  tho  most  fearful 
sights  that  can  possibly  meet  the  eye  of  the  sailor.  The  difficulty 
of  its  channel,  the  distance  of  the  leading  sailing  marks,  their  un- 
certainty to  one  unacquainted  with  them,  the  want  of  knowledge 
of  the  strength  and  direction  of  the  currents,  with  the  necessity  of 


^ 


44 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


■    .  '(1*1' 


t 


Mr.  Blanchct  and  the  people  of  Willamette  no 
sooner  heard  of  Mr.  De  Smet's  arrival  at  Van 
couver  than  they  hastened  to  meet  him.  The 
good  father  and  the  colony  that  accompanied 
him,  were  received  with  every  demonstration  of 
civility  by  Dr.  McLaughlin  and  Mr.  Douglas, 
who  also  tendered  one  of  the  company's  boats 
to  convey  the  missionary  band  to  Willamette. 
Their  journey  to  this  place  was  a  real  triumph, 
such  was  the  joy  and  excitement  produced 
among  the  inhabitants  by  the  accession  of  these 
new  laborers  to  the  vineyard.  The  sisters  Notre 
Dame  soon  occupied  the  building  which  had 
been  undertaken  for  their  purposes,  and  in  the 
month  of  December  it  was  opened  as  a  board- 
ing academy  for  girls.  Father  De  Smet,  about 
the  same  time,  directed  his  course  towards  the 
Flatheads,  Father  Devos  having  come  to  supply 
his  place  in  the  south.  The  labors  of  the 
Jesuits  among  the  tribes  of  the  north  have  been 
crowned  with  the  most  abundant  success.  In 
1842,  a  new  mission,  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus, 
was  founded  about  eight  days'  journey  south  of 
St.  Mary's.  In  addition  to  the  increased  re- 
approaching  close  to  unseen  dangers,  the  transition  from  clear  to 
turbid  water,  all  cause  doubt  and  mistrust.  Under  such  feelings, 
I  must  confess  that  I  felt  myself  laboring." — Vol.  iv.,  p.  293. 


OREGON       IVI  I  S  S  I  O  N  S  . 


45 


otte  no 
it  Van 
I.     The 
ipanied 
Ltion  of 
ouglas, 
3  boats 
imette. 
iumph, 
oduced 
•f  these 
5  Notre 
ch  had 
in  the 
board- 
,  about 
'ds  the 
supply 
)f   the 
e  been 
^s.     In 
Jesus, 
uth  of 

!d    re- 
clear  to 
feelings, 
193. 


sources  wliicli  the  mission  received  in  1814,  \ve 
must  monlion  also  the  arrival  of  two  other 
Jesuit  Fathers  and  one  lav  brother,  who  w^ent 
to  OrcfTon,  by  the  way  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Such  was  the  state  of  the  country,  and  such 
the  progress  of  religion  among  the  natives  and 
colonists,  when  Mr.  Blanchet  received  letters 
iVom  Canada  in  November  last,  informing  him 
that.,  upon  the  application  of  the  Fifth  Provincial 
Council  of  Baltimore,  he  had  been  appointed 
A'icar  Apostolic  of  Oregon  Territory,  and  that 
bulls  to  that  effect,  dated  the  1st  December,  1843, 
had  been  despatched  to  him.  He  was  imme- 
diately solicited  by  his  fellow-laborers  to  accept 
the  charge,  and  at  first  determined  to  go  to  Cali- 
fornia for  the  ceremony  of  consecration.  But 
desirous  of  obtaining  a  further  reinforcement  for 
his  extensive  mission,  he  concluded  to  visit 
Europe.  Having  appointed  Rev.  Mr.  Demers 
his  Vicar  Gcncrctl  and  administrator  of  the 
A'icariate  during  his  absence,  he  left  Vancouver 
towards  the  end  of  November,  arrived  on  the 
22d  of  May  at  London,  and  thence  embarking 
for  this  country  the  4th  of  June,  in  the  Cunard 
line  of  steamers,  he  reached  Canada  on  the 
24th  of  the  same  month,  after  a  journey  of  more 
than   22,000  miles.     Mr.  Blanchet  recently  re- 


^i»i- 


46 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


1 


..      .i| 


ceivcd  the  opiscopal  consecration  in  Montreal, 
and  lias  gone  to  Europe  on  business  connected 
with  his  mission.  Six  thousand  savages 
brought  within  the  fold  of  the  Christian  church, 
form,  indeed,  but  a  small  number  among  the 
100,000  who  inhabit  that  immense  region  ;  but 
this  success,  achieved  in  a  few  years,  by  a  mis- 
sionary force  so  limited,  and  compelled  to  grap- 
ple with  so  many  difficulties,  is  a  bright  and 
consoling  evidence  of  what  can  and  will  be 
taccomplished  by  those  who  have  been  com- 
missioned to  "  go  and  teach  all  nations." 

On  the  1st  of  December,  1843,  his  Holiness, 
Gregory  XVI,  erected  Oregon  Territory  into  an 
Apostolic  Vicariate,  and  the  Rev.  Francis  N. 
Blanchet,  was  appointed  to  the  episcopal  charge 
of  this  extensive  mission.  His  consecration 
took  place  in  Montreal,  C.  E.,  about  the  middle 
of  the  year  1844.  He  immediately  repaired  to 
Europe,  with  a  view  to  increase  the  resources 
of  his  mission,  and  to  devise  means  for  pro- 
moting the  interests  of  religion  in  Oregon.  At 
his  request,  and  by  a  recent  act  of  the  Holy 
See,  the  Territory  of  Orc^gon,  from  the  4'id  to 
the  54th  degree  of  N.  Latitude,  has  been  divided 
into  eight  diocesses,  viz :  Oregon  City,  Nes- 
qualy,  Vancouver's  Island,  and  Princess  Char- 


1, 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


47 


ontreal, 
nnected 
savages 
church, 
ong  the 
on  ;  but 
y  a  mis- 
to  grap- 
?ht  and 
will  be 
n   com- 

oliness, 
into  an 
ncis  N. 

charge 
aeration 

middle 
lircd  to 
sources 
or  pro- 
ill.  At 
e  Holy 

4^d  to 
divided 
',  Nes- 
I  Char- 


lotte, on  the  coast,  and  Walla  Walla,  Fort  Hall, 
Colville,  and  New  Caledonia,  in  the  interior. 
These  diocesses  form  an  ecclesiastical  province, 
oi'  which  Oregon  City  is  the  Metropolitan  See. 
For  the  present,  only  three  bi.^hops  are  appoint- 
ed for  the  province,  viz  :  those  of  Oregon  City, 
Walla  Walla,  and  Vancouver's  Island,  who  will 
have  a  provisional  jurisdiction  over  the  other 
diocesses.  The  episcopal  districts  of  Vancou- 
twrs  Island,  Princess  Charlotte,  and  New  Cale- 
floniff,  are  not  included  within  the  territory  be- 
longing to  the  United  States.  The  Rt.  Rev. 
Modest  Dcmers,  one  of  the  missionaries  that 
visited  Oregon  in  1838,  has  been  charged  with 
the  See  of  Vancouver's  Island,  and  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  two  other  districts  in  the  British 
portion  of  the  territory.  The  region  within  the 
limits  of  the  United  States  embraces  the  five 
other  diocesses  above-mentioned. 

ARCHDIOCESS  OF  OREGON  CITY. 

This  district  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Rt.  Rev.  F.  \.  Blanchet,  who  has  also  the  ad- 
ministration of  Nesqualy. 

DI0CE3S    OF    WALLA    WALLA. 

This  diocess  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Rt. 


48 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Rev.  Magloire  Blanchet,  who  was  consecrated 
in  Montreal,  on  the  27th  of  September,  1846. 
He  has  also  the  present  administration  of  Fort 
Hall  and  Colville. 


nil 


iT« 


r 

i  ir 


i 


i 


The  following  clergymen  are  engaged  in  the 
missions  of  Oregon  : — 

Rev.  Accolti,  Michael, 

De  Smet,  Peter  J., 

De  Vos,  Peter, 

Hoecken,  Adrian. 

Toset,  Joseph, 

Mcngarini,  Gregory, 

Nobili,  John, 

Point,  Nicholas, 

Ravalli,  Anthony, 

Vercruysse,  Aloysius, 

Langlois,  Anthony, 

Bolduc,  John  Baptist, 
Who  are  all,  with  the  exception  of  the  last 
two,  members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus. 

Archbishop  Blanchet  lately  embarked  from 
Europe,  on  his  way  to  Oregon,  with  ten  secular 
priests  and  two  regulars,  three  lay  brothers  of 
the  Society  of  Jesus,  and  seven  female  relig- 
ious, lor  the  wants  of  the  mission.  The  total 
number  of  clergymen  is  twenty-six. 


u 


u 


n 


u 


it 


u 


u 


it 


«« 


(( 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


49 


)  last 

from 
cular 
;rs  of 
•elig- 
total 


Our  information  is  not  sufficiently  detailed,  to 
allow  us  to  present  the  religious  statistics  of  the 
different  diocesses  into  which  Oregon  has  been 
divided.  We  can  only  state  in  general,  that 
since  the  year  1845,  several  new  stations  have 
])ccn  formed,  new  churches  erected,  and  a 
large  number  of  the  aborigines  of  various  tribes 
converted  to  the  true  faith. 

The  state  of  religion  is  as  follows:  there  are 
eighteen  chapels,  viz. :  five  in  the  Willamette 
Valley ;  8t.  Paul's  Cathedral ;  St.  Mary's  at  the 
Convent  of  the  Sisters  ;  St.  Francis  Xaverius' 
Chap"!  *h"i  new  church  in  the  Prairie;  St. 
John's  >!  ^/ch  in  Oregon  City;  one  at  Van- 
couver ;  one  at  Cowlitz ;  one  at  Whitby ; 
four  in  New  Caledonia,  to  wit :  at  Stuart's 
Lake,  at  Fort  Alexandria,  at  the  Rapids,  and 
at  the  Upper  Lake  ;  St.  Mary's  Church  among 
the  Flatheads;  the  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart 
among  the  Pointed-llearts  ;  the  Church  of  St. 
Ignatius  among  the  Pend-d'oreilles  ofthe  Bay; 
the  Cliapcd  of  St.  PpuI  among  the  Kettle-Fall 
Tribe  near  Colville.  Tin;  Ibllowing  are  stations 
of  181(»,  where  chapels  are  to  be  erected,  to  wit : 
St.  Francis  Borgia  among  the  Upper  Kalispels  ; 
St.  Francis  Begis  in  Colvilh^  Valley;  St.  Peter's 
at  the  great  Lakes  of  the  Columbia;  the  As- 


Si 


50 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


sumption  among  the  Flatbow  Indians  ;  the  Holy 
Heart  of  Mary  among  the  Koetenais. 

The  institutions  that  have  been  commenced 
in  Oregon,  consist :  1st,  of  the  school  of  St. 
Mary's  among  the  Flatheads ;  2d,  of  a  college 
at  St.  Paul's,  Willamette ;  and  3d,  of  an  acad- 
emy for  girls  at  the  same  place,  under  the 
charge  of  six  sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  Other 
establishments  are  soon  to  be  commenced. 

The  total  number  of  Indians  in  the  territory 
is  about  110,000,  of  whom  upwards  of  6,000 
have  been  converted  to  the  true  faith.  The 
number  of  Catholics  among  the  Canadians  and 
settlers  amounts  to  about  1,500. 


OREGON       MISSIONS, 


le  Holy 

menced 
of  St. 
college 
ti  acad- 
ler  the 
Other 
i. 

^rritory 
f  6,000 
I.  The 
,ns  and 


No.  I. 


LETTER  OF  MR.  BOLDUC, 


APOSTOLICAL    MISSIONARY. 


To  Mr.  Cayenne. 

Cowlitz,  15th  Feb.,  1844. 
Sir, — Nearly  a  year   has  elapsed  since  I   had 
the  satisfaction  of  addressing  you.     During  that 
period,  I  have  made   many  new  excursions,  of 
which  I  now  intend  giving  you  an  account. 

From  the  observations  made  by  the  first 
Enj2:lish  navigators  who  visited  the  coasts  of 
America  towards  the  north  of  the  Columbia 
River,  it  appears  that  the  territory  bearing  the 
same  name,  was  formerly  discovered  and  peo- 
pled by  Spaniards.  Even  at  the  present  day, 
we  lind  ruins  of  birch  edifices,  constructed  for 
lh(^  |)urpose  of  drawing  the  savage  nations  to 
lli(^  kiio\vl(Mlge  of  the  gospel.  Among  the 
iiMlives,  relics  have  ham  found  attesting  this 
fact ;  a  certain  tribe  has  possessed  for  ages  a 
brazen  crucifix,  bearing  the  appearance  of  great 
antiquity,  when,  how,  and  by  whom  it  was 
brought  thither,  none  can  tell.     It  is  probable  it 


■i 

.  11 

' 

1  ,i 

'  'ii 

. 

1  * 

1 

i ' 

i 

52 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


may  have  been  introduced  at  that  period,  when 
the  Spaniards  seized  on  California,  and  formed 
a  settlement  on  Vancouver's  Island,  separated 
from  Terra  Firma  by  the  Strait  of  Juan  de 
Fuca.  Gray  di.^covered  the  Columbia  River; 
Vancouver  ascended  it  to  the  point  whereon  is 
built  the  fort  that  bears  his  name,  and  took 
possession  of  the  surrounding  country. 

The  vast  territory  extending  between  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  di- 
vided into  two  zones,  differing  in  their  climate, 
soil  and  productions.  The  line  of  separation 
runs  parallel  to  the  coasts  of  the  South  Sea, 
from  which  it  is  distant  about  200  miles.  Less 
woody  than  the  regions  of  the  West,  the  eastern 
part  rises  into  table-land,  which  forms  the  basis 
of  the  Mounts  Hood,  St.  Helena,  Reignier,  and 
Baker.  The  summits  of  these  mountains  rise 
to  the  height  of  15  or  10,000  feet,  and  are 
crowned  with  eternal  snow.  Last  year.  Mounts 
St.  Helena  and  Baker  became  volcanoes.  The 
latter,  within  the  last  few  months,  has  under- 
gone considerable  changes  on  the  side  where 
the  crater  was  formed. 

In  the  oriental  zone  the  climate  is  dry  and 
salubrious ;  in  winter  as  well  as  summer,  rain 
is  very  rare.      Snow   never  covers   the   earth 


I 


—**> 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


53 


J,  when 
formed 
paratcd 
nan  de 
River ; 
reon  is 
id  took 

en  the 
n  is  di- 
limate, 
iration 
h  Sea, 

Less 
astern 
;  basis 
r,  and 
s  rise 
d  are 
tounts 

The 
nder- 
vhere 

i  and 
rain 
arth 


more  than  a  foot  deep  ;  no  marshy  land  is  to  be 
found ;  and  the  air  bein<?  neither  foj;<ry  nor 
misty  every  species  offender  is  totally  unknown. 
In  the  inferior  part,  from  October  to  March,  the 
rains  are  continual ;  thick  clouds  envelope  the 
atmosphere,  and  hide  the  sun  lor  entire  weeks. 
When  the  vapours  no  longer  obscure  u  lir,  a 
mild  and  vivifying  heat  is  diffused  around. 
This  winter  has  been  quite  remarkable  by  the 
small  quantity  of  rain.  During  the  greater  part 
of  February  and  the  beginning  of  March,  the 
weather  was  delightful,  we  could  have  imagin- 
ed ourselves  in  May.  The  grass  was  verdant 
in  the  meadows,  and  strawberries  were  in  full 
bloom. 

In  March,  rain  seldom  falls;  a  glowing  sun 
reanimates  nature,  which  soon  appears  in  her 
gayest  attire.  Wheat  sown  in  autunm  sur- 
passes in  April,  that  which  we  are  accustomed 
to  Ix'hold  in  Canada  in  the  month  of  June. 

During  summer  the  weather  is  clear  and 
sultry,  sometimes,  however,  thick  clouds  gather 
around,  and  appear  as  if  they  would  ])urst  in 
torrents  over  our  heads,  })ut  thev  an;  soon  dissi- 
pated  without  thunder,  and  without  shedding  on 
the  earth  a  drop  of  that  moisture  which  she 
seems  to  require  to  perfi^ct  her  harvest. 


Jf|M 


i;' 


t 


!!  in: 


hii'f*' 


54 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


In  June,  the  rivers,  swollen  by  the  melted 
snow,  inundate  the  plains,  and  increase  the 
stagnant  water  formed  by  the  rains  of  winter. 
The  vapors  arising  from  the  influence  of  a 
meridian  sun,  cause  fever  and  ague,  which  are 
more  frequent  when  the  rivers  overflow  their 
banks.  This  malady  reigns  throughout  the 
country  from  the  end  of  August  to  the  middle 
of  October,  and  persons  once  attacked  generally 
sufl^er  from  its  baneful  cflects  for  several  years ; 
and  as  I  have  not  escaped  this  year,  I  have 
every  reason  to  dread  a  recurrence  in  the 
future.  You  could  scarcely  credit  the  relation 
of  the  terrible  ravages  which  this  epidemic 
causes  among  the  numerous  tribes  inhabiting 
the  shores  of  the  Columbia.  Entire  camps 
have  been  swept  away  by  this  fatal  scourge. 
When  the  savages  find  themselves  attacked  by 
it,  they  hasten  to  plunge  into  the  cold  rivers, 
and  die  immediately.  The  whites  with  proper 
attention  baffle  the  distemper. 

1  informed  you  last  year,  that  I  intended  open- 
ing a  mission  at  Puget  Sound ;  and  hoped,  if 
possible,  to  reach  Vancouver's  Island  ;  this  pro- 
ject has  been  executed,  and  I  will  now  give 
you  a  few  details. 

To  attain  this  object,  I  thought  it  better  not 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


55 


le  melted 
'ease  the 
f  winter, 
ice  of  a 
v^hich  are 
ow  their 
hout  the 
le  middle 
generally 
al  years ; 
*,  I  have 

in    the 

relation 
3pidemic 
habiting 

camps 
scourge, 
eked  by 
I  rivers, 

proper 

d  open- 
oped,  if 
his  pro- 
>w  give 

ter  not 


to  go  alone  on  the  island ;  no  priest  had  as  yet 
trodden  the  soil,  and  the  savages  were  little 
familiarized  with  the  whites.  Happily,  the 
Hon.  Hudson  Bay  Company  was  about  con- 
structing a  fort  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island.  Mr.  Douglas,  the  director  of  this  expe- 
dition, generously  invited  me  to  take  my  pas- 
sage on  board  his  vessel.  Most  willingly  did  I 
accept  the  kind  oifer,  and  quitted  Cowlitz  7th  of 
March,  for  Shwally.  The  Steamboat  Beaver 
awaited  us  some  days ;  for,  having  several  prepa- 
rations to  make,  we  did  not  get  on  board  before 
the  morning  of  the  13tli.  After  having  pursued 
our  course  during  the  day,  towards  evening  we 
cast  anchor  in  still  water,  at  a  place  named 
Pointe  Perdrix,  formed  by  a  projection  of  the 
Isle  Whitby.  Fishing  lines  wers  soon  pre- 
pared, and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  procuring 
an  excellent  dinner  for  the  next  dav.  We 
caught  a  quantity  of  beautiful  fish,  not  unlike 
the  cod  of  Canada,  some  of  them  were  four  feet 
in  length. 

The  waters  of  Puget  Bay  are  richly  stocked ; 
salmon  abound,  and  form  one  of  the  principal 
resources  of  the  natives.  In  July,  August  and 
►September,  more  are  taken  than  can  be  con- 
sumed.    A   small   fish,   peculiar  to   the  north- 


f 

7.-T- 

t 

'    11 

II 

■■    ''1 

1    •;. 

i 

:\  i 

\ 

i 


tiU 


'H 

56 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


western  coast  is  here  found ;  it  comes  up  the 
rivers  in  spring,  and  contains  such  a  quantity  of 
oil,  that  when  dried  and  lit  by  the  tail  it  burns 
like  a  candle.  From  this  fish  the  savages  ex- 
tract excellent  oil,  which  they  use  for  seasoning 
their  food.  Early  on  the  14th  we  raised  anchor 
and  directed  our  course  towards  Jaan  de  Fuca 
Strait.  We  landed,  and  after  having  visited  a 
small  camp  of  savages,  belonging  to  the  Tribe 
of  Klalanes,  we  bore  away  for  the  southern 
point  of  Vancouver's  Island,  whither  we  arrived 
about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  At  first,  only 
two  canoes  were  perceived ;  but,  after  a  dis- 
charge of  cannon,  we  saw  the  natives  issuing 
from  their  haunts  and  surrounding  the  steam- 
boat. Next  morning,  the  pirogues  (Indian 
boats)  came  from  every  side.  I  went  on  shore 
with  the  commander  of  the  expedition  and  the 
captain  of  the  vessel  ;  having  received  unequi- 
vocal proofs  of  the  good-will  of  the  Indians,  I 
visited  their  village  situated  six  miles  from  the 
port,  at  the  extremity  of  the  bay. 

Like  the  surrounding  tribes,  this  one  possess- 
ed a  little  fortress,  formed  by  stakes  enclosing 
about  150  square  feet.  The  inhabitants  en- 
deavor to  secure  themselves  in  this  manner 
from  the  incursions  of  the  Toungletats,  a  power- 


\X 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


57 


ful  find  warlike  tribe  ;  one  part  of  which  en- 
camps on  Vancouver's  Island,  the  other  on  the 
continent,  north  of  Frazer's  River.  These 
ferocious  enemies  enter  the  villa;[^es  by  night, 
massacre  all  the  men,  and  carry  off  the  women 
and  children  whom  they  reduce  to  slavery.  On 
my  arrival,  all  the  tril)e,  men,  women  and 
children,  assembled  to  shake  hands  with  me  ; 
a  ceremony  which  these  savages  never  omit. 
They  repaired  to  the  great  lodge  belonging  to 
tlieir  chief,  where  I  spoke  to  them  concerning 
the  existence  of  a  God,  the  Creator  of  all  things  ; 
of  the  recompense  promised  to  good  actions, 
and  the  eternal  chastisements  which  await  the 
commission  of  crime.  My  instructions  were 
often  interrupted  by  the  harangues  of  my  audi- 
tors. The  following  one  may  prove  interesting  : 
"  Chief,  listen  to  my  words ;  ten  years  ago,  I 
heard  that  there  was  a  jNIaster  above,  who 
hated  evil ;  and  that  among  the  French,  men 
were  to  be  found  who  taught  the  knowledge 
of  this  Master.  I  also  heard  that  men  of  this 
description  would  come  to  our  home.  Since 
that  time,  my  heart,  which  was  formerly  very 
wicked,  has  become  good  ;  I  no  longer  do  evil  ; 
and  since  you  are  come,  all  hearts  are  filled 
with  joy." 


58 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


f» 


1^1 


»|! 


1-1 


f 


il 


ii 


Another  day,  whilst  I  was  speaking  of  bap- 
tism, and  recountinj^  to  them  that  several 
nations  had  caused  their  children  to  be  baptized, 
a  man  arose  and  said :  "  Thy  \yords  are  good, 
but  we  have  been  told  that  all  who  were  bap- 
tized among  the  Kwaitlens,  and  the  Kawitskins 
(near  Frazer  River),  died  immediately  ;  how- 
ever, since  thou  sayest  it  is  a  good  thing,  we 
believe  thee.  It  the  sacred  water  will  cause  us 
to  see  the  Great  Master  after  death,  baptize 
all  our  camp ;  perform  this  charity,  for  they 
nearly  all  die."  I  promised,  I  would  return  the 
following  Sunday,  and  confer  the  sacrament. 

My  arrival  being  noised  abroad,  several 
neighboring  nations  came  hither  in  crowds. 
Saturday,  the  18th,  was  employed  in  construct- 
ing a  kind  of  repository,  whereon  to  celebrate 
mass  the  ensuing  morn.  Mr.  Douglas  gave  me 
several  of  his  men  to  aid  in  the  work.  Branches 
of  fir-trees  formed  the  sides  of  this  rustic 
chapel ;  and  the  awning  of  the  boat,  its  canopy. 
Early  Sunday  morning,  more  than  twelve  hun- 
dred savages,  belonging  to  the  three  great 
tribes,  Kawitskins,  Klalams,  and  Isanisks,  were 
assembled  in  this  modest  sanctuary.  Our  com- 
mander neglected  nothing  that  could  render  the 
ceremony   imposing ;    he  gave    me    liberty  to 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


59 


choose  on  board,  all  that  could  serve  for  its  deco- 
ration. He  assisted  at  the  mass  with  some 
Canadians,  with  two  Catholic  ladies.  It  was  in 
the  midst  of  this  numerous  assembly,  that,  for 
the  first  time,  the  sacred  mysteries  were  cele- 
brated ;  may  the  blood  of  the  Spotless  Lamb, 
fertilize  this  barren  land,  and  cause  it  to  pro- 
duce an  abundant  harvest.  This  being  the  day 
fixed  for  the  baptism  of  the  children,  I  repaired 
to  the  principal  village  accompanied  by  ail  who 
had  assisted  at  the  divine  service.  On  arriv  ng, 
I  was  again  compelled  to  present  my  hand  to 
about  GOO  persons.  The  children  were  an  r,^- 
ed  along  the  sea-coast ;  I  distributed  to  (  vch  a 
small  piece  of  paper  with  a  name  written  there- 
on ;  and  immediately  commenced  the  ceremony 
It  was  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  I 
did  not  finish  before  night,  the  new  Christians 
numbered  102.  Though  much  exhausted,  I 
was  obliged  to  walk  two  leagues  to  rejoin  the 
steamboat. 

According  to  the  plan  traced  out  for  our 
voyage,  we  were  to  reinair,  lierc  but  a  few 
days  ;  and  then  continue  our  course  from  fort  to 
fort,  until  we  arrived  at  the  Russian  establish- 
ment at  Sitka,  but  the  little  vessel  bearing  the 
provisions,  came   not.     This  delay  grieved  me 


CO 


O  R  i:  G  O  N      MISSIONS 


1 1 

■J 


niiK^b,  for  llio  *2jrnn(l  viciir  li.ul  conimuiiicatod  to 
mo  his  iiit(Milioii  of  <'sla])lishini^  at  \\iv  ])o^in- 
niiij;*  of  suinincr,  a  mission  in  Whitby  Ish^,  and 
also  of  cMn|)U)yin«»;  mo  in  this  work  of  zeal. 
Fcariniz;  T  would  not  nMtirn  in  timo  if  I  delayed 
my  depart ur(%  T  resolved  immediately  to  retrace 
my  ste|)s.  I  ])iirchased  a  caiKK%  and  enga<^ed 
the  chief  of  the  Isaiiisks  and  icn  of  his  men  to 
conduct  me  direct  to  AVhithy  Isle.  1  ([uitted 
V^aiicouver  the  'Jlth  of  March,  bearing  with  me 
the  most  lively  sentiments  of  «i:ratitud(^  towards 
the  coinmaiider  of  the  exi)e(lition  and  Cai)tain 
IJrotchie,  for  all  their  kind  and  delicate  atten- 
tions. The  sea  was  calm,  but  the  atmosphere 
clouded  ;  luckily,  1  took  with  me  a  compass, 
oth(M-wise  1  should  have  strayed  iVom  mv  coiu'se, 
liavin*^  twenty-sev(Mi  mil(\s  to  traverse.  The 
iirst  day  we  reached  a  little  island  between  the 
extremity  of  \\'incoiiver  and  the  continent  where 
we  passed  the  night.  My  Indians,  having  shot 
a  sea-wolf,  made  a  gr<vit  f(»ast.  Vou  would 
scarcely  believe  liow  much  a  savage  can 
devour  at  a  n^past ;  but  if  he  is  voracious  in 
time  of  ])lenty,  he  knows  how  to  fast  several 
successive  days  without  (Miduring  nuich  fatigue. 
The  i35th  there  arose  a  strong  iiorth-W'esterly 
breeze.     The  row^ers,  before  quitting  the  coast, 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


61 


itod  to 

l(\  and 
r  zeal, 
clayed 
rotrjicc 

mm  to 
([iiittcd 
'ilh  me 
Dwards 
y  apt  a  ill 
at  to  11- 
)sphcrc 
>mpass, 
course, 
The 
11  the 
where 
sliot 
woiiUl 
can 
ous  ill 
v(M*al 
iti^j^Lie. 
'sterly 
coast, 


'ei 


ascended  a  hill  to  ascertain  if  the  sea  was 
much  ap^itated  in  the  midcHe  of  the  strait;  they 
were  some  time  bcdorci  they  could  decide  the 
point;  at  last  i hey  declared,  that  with  the  aid 
of  a  sail,  we  mi'j^ht  brave  the  danger.  A  mast 
was  prepared,  a  blanket  affixed  to  it,  and  thus 
e(|ui[)ped  we  con(id«'d  ourselves  to  the  mercy  of 
the  waves.  Towards  three  o'clock  w<^  landed 
at  the  isle  of  Wliitby;  not,  however,  without 
ex[)eii(Micing  some  danger. 

A  great  number  of  savage  Klalams  and 
Skadjjits  came  to  meet  us  ;  I  knew,  by  reputa- 
tion, the  chief  ol'the  vSkadjats,  and  asked  to  see 
him.  They  replied  thiit  he  had  left  two  days 
pn^vlously,  to  meet  me  at  Vancouver's  island. 
His  two  sons  ])resented  themselves;  one  of 
them,  ])ressing  my  hand,  said,  "My  father, 
Netlan,  is  not  her<%  he  is  gone  to  llamoon  (this 
is  the  name*  of  the  southern  point  of  Vancou- 
ver's island)  ;  when  he  learns  thou  art  here  he 
will  soon  return,  lie  will  be  delighted  if  thou 
wilt  remain  Jimong  us,  for  he  is  tired  saying 
*Mass^  every  Sunday,  and  preaching  to  these 
people."  Later,  I  was  informed  that  his  Mass 
consisted  in  explaining  to  the  savages  of  his 
tribe  the  chronological  history  of  religion 
(traccnl  on  a  ma])),  in  teaching  them  to   make 


i-*- 


62 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


r 


I;' 


I 


SI; 

i 


numberless  signs  of  the  cross,  and  singing  a  few 
canticles  with  the  Kyrie  Eleison. 

I  pitched  my  tent  near  the  cross  planted  by 
Mr.  Blanchet  when  he  first  landed  in  the  island, 
in  1840.  The  next  morning  all  the  camp  of  the 
Skadjats  surrounded  me  to  hear  the  word  of 
God.  You  may  form  some  idea  of  the  popula- 
tion of  this  tribe  when  I  tell  you,  that  I  gave 
my  hand  to  a  file  of  650  persons,  besides  150 
others  who  had  passed  the  night  near  my  tent 
not  included  in  this  number :  and  nearly  all  the 
old  men  and  women,  besides  the  children,  had 
remained  in  their  huts.  After  the  instruction, 
several  canticles  were  chanted  in  such  full 
chorus  that  the  sound  was  deafening. 

Several  parents  had  begged  me  to  baptize 
their  children.  I  repaired  to  the  village  and  re- 
quested to  see  all  the  children,  under  seven, 
who  had  not  received  the  grace  of  regeneration. 
Not  one  was  forgotten  ;  there  were  1 50  present. 
The  ceremony  took  place  in  a  little  meadow, 
surrounded  by  lofty  and  antique  fir-trees.  It 
was  not  12  o'clock  when  I  began  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  sacrament,  and  I  did  not  finish 
before  sun-set.  The  day  was  most  beautiful, 
but  the  ardent  rays  of  the  sun,  joined  to  the 
want  of  a  substantial  breakfast,  caused  me  to 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


63 


a  few 


aptize 
and  re- 
seven, 
ration. 
>resent. 
eadow, 
les.     It 
Iminis- 
finish 
utiful, 
to  the 
me  to 


suffer  much  by  a  violent  headache.  The  27th, 
the  chief  of  the  8ivi(  Ijats  deckired  to  me  that  I 
ought  not  to  be  lodged  in  a  cotton  house  (under 
a  tent)  ;  "  for  this  reason,"  added  he,  "  to-mor- 
row thou  must  tell  me  in  what  place  we  shall 
construct  thee  an  abode,  and  thou  wilt  see  how 
powerful  is  the  effect  of  my  words  when  I  speak 
to  my  people."  Beholding  the  good-will  of  the 
chief,  I  pointed  out  a  little  eminence.  Immedi- 
ately al'terward  I  saw  two  hundred  workmen, 
some  having  hatchets  to  fell  the  trees,  others 
preparing  to  remove  them  ;  four  of  the  most 
skilful  undertook  the  arrangement  of  the  edi- 
fice. In  two  days  all  was  terminated,  and  I 
found  myself  installed  in  a  house  28  feet  long 
by  25  in  width.  The  wood  was  rough,  the  roof 
covered  with  cedar-bark,  and  the  interior  over- 
laid willi  rush  mats.  During  the  week  I  gave 
them  several  instructions,  and  tau^'ht  them 
some  canticles — for  without  singing,  t);  ^  best 
things  are  of  little  value  ;  noise  is  essential  to 
their  eniovment. 

I  had  terminated  the  exercises  of  the  mission, 
Avhen  several  savages  arrived  from  the  conti- 
nent ;  as  soon  as  they  perceived  me,  they  cast 
themselves  on  their  knees,  exclaiming,  "Pries., 
priest,  during  four  days  we  have  travelled  to 


64 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


}1      '1 


i  k 


tfei' 


behold  thee,  we  have  walked  night  and  day, 
and  have  scarcely  tasted  any  food  ;  now  that 
we  see  thee  our  hearts  are  joyful,  take  pity  on 
us  ;  we  have  learned  that  there  is  a  Master  on 
high,  but  we  know  not  how  to  speak  to  him. 
Come  with  us,  thou  wilt  baptize  our  children  as 
thou  didst  those  of  the  Skadjats."  I  was  moved 
by  these  words,  and  would  willingly  have  iol  • 
lowed  them  to  their  forests,  but  it  was  impos- 
sible to  do  so,  my  intended  arrival  having  been 
announced  at  Skwally.  I  quitted  these  good 
Indians  the  3d  April  ;  during  my  abode  among 
them  I  experienced  nothing  but  consolations 
which  surpassed  all  my  expectations. 

By  this  relation  you  will  perceive,  sir,  that 
the  savages  of  Puget  Bay  show  much  zeal  for 
religion,  yet  they  do  not  understand  the  full  ex- 
tent of  the  term.  If  to  be  a  Christian  it  were 
but  necessary  to  know  some  prayers,  and  sing 
canticles,  there  is  not  one  among  them  who 
would  not  adopt  the  title ;  but  a  capital  point 
still  to  be  ga:  •  '  is,  a  reformation  of  morals. 
As  soon  as  we  touch  this  chord,  their  ardor  is 
changed  into  indifference.  In  vain  the  chief- 
tains harangue  their  inferiors ;  how  can  they 
expect  to  make  any  impression  where  they  are 
themselves  the  more  guilty  ! 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


65 


1  do  not  mistrust  Divine  Providence,  but  I 
may  say,  without  exposing  myself  to  illusion, 
that  our  best  hopes  are  centred  in  the  tribes  in- 
habiting the  coasts  of  the  ocean,  or  which  are 
settled  at  the  mouth  of  the  numerous  tribu- 
taries. 

Sir,  I  have  the  honor  to  remain, 
Your  very  humble  and  obedient 
servant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

J.  B.  Z.  BOLDUC, 

Apostolical  Missionary, 


'itr' 


66 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


f 


« : 


"f 

1 


kf 

^ 


No.  II. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


Sainto  Marie  dii  Willamette,  ' 
9th  October,  1844. 

My  Dear  Brother, — On  the  28th  July,  after  a 
tedious  navigation  of  nearly  ei^ht  months,  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  Oregon  Territory.  Oh  ! 
with  what  transports  of  delight  we  hailed  these 
long-desired  shores.  What  heartfelt  thanks- 
givings burst  from  every  tongue.  All,  with  one 
accord,  entoned  that  magnificent  hymn  of  praise, 
the  "  Te  Deum."  But  these  moments  of  happi- 
ness were  not  of  long  duration  ;  they  were  suc- 
ceeded by  others,  of  deep  anxiety,  as  the  remem- 
brance of  the  perils  yet  to  be  encountered 
flashed  upon  our  minds.  We  were  approaching 
the  "  Columbia."  The  entrance  into  this  river 
is  difficult  and  dangerous,  even  for  seamen  pro- 
vided with  good  charts  ;  and  our  captain,  unable 
to  procure  any,  was,  we  know,  entirely  unac- 
quainted with  the  rocks  and  breakers,  which, 
at  this  season,  render  it  almost  impracticable. 

We   soon    perceived    Cape    Disappointment, 
which  seems  to  point  out  to  travellers  the  course 


i'-i 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


at 


they  are  to  pursue.  It  was  growing  late,  and 
the  captain  resolved  to  steer  out  into  the  open 
sea,  to  avoid  the  danger  of  running  aground 
during  the  night.  As  the  vessel  moved  slowly 
onward,  leaving  the  shore  in  the  distance,  we 
stood  upon  deck,  contemplating  from  afar  the 
high  mountains  and  vast  forests  of  Oregon. 
Here  and  there  we  could  distinguish  the  clouds 
of  smoke  curling  upwards  from  the  huts  of  our 
poor  Indians.  This  aspect  filled  my  very  soul 
with  indescribable  emotions.  It  would  be  ne- 
cessary to  be  placed  in  the  same  positio^i,  to 
understand  fully  what  were  then  our  feelings. 
Our  hearts  palpitated  with  joy  as  we  gazed  on 
those  boundless  regions,  over  which  were  scat- 
tered so  many  abandoned  souls — the  young,  the 
aged — dying  in  the  shades  of  infidelity,  for  want 
of  missionaries ;  an  evil  which  we  were  about 
to  alleviate,  if  not  for  all,  at  least  for  a  great 
number. 

The  29th  all  the  fathers  celebrated  the  Holy 
Sacrifice,  wishing  to  ofifer  a  last  violence  to 
heaven,  and  force,  as  it  were,  a  benediction  on 
our  mission.  The  morning  was  dark  and 
gloomy  :  so  were  our  spirits.  About  10  o'clock 
the  sky  cleared,  and  allowed  us  to  approach, 
with  caution,  the  vast  and  fearful  mouth  of  the 


ilS 


68 


O  R  EGON      MISSIONS. 


). 


>(t 


It 


Columbia.  We  soon  discovered  immense  break- 
ers, several  miles  in  extent — the  infallible  sign 
of  a  sand  bank.  The  shoals  crossed  the  river, 
and  seemed  to  oppose  an  invincible  barrier  to 
our  entrance.  This  sight  filled  us  w^ith  conster- 
nation. We  felt  that  to  attempt  a  passage 
would  be  exposing  ourselves  to  an  almost  cer- 
tain death.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  What  be- 
come of  us  ?  How  extricate  ourselves  from  so 
perilous  a  situation  ? 

On  the  30th  our  captain,  from  the  topmast, 
caught  the  glimpse  of  a  vessel,  slowly  rounding 
the  Cape,  on  its  way  out  of  the  river.  This 
cheering  sight  was  in  a  moment  snatched  from 
our  eager  view  by  an  intervening  rock,  under 
the  shade  of  which  it  cast  anchor,  to  await  a 
favourable  wind.  Its  appearance,  however,  led 
us  to  conclude  that  the  passage  of  the  river 
was  yet  practicable,  and  we  hoped  to  be  direct- 
ed by  its  course.  About  3  o'clock  the  captain 
sent  the  lieutenant,  with  three  sailors,  to  sound 
the  breakers,  and  seek  a  favorable  opening  for 
our  entrance  on  the  morrow,  which  happened 
to  be  the  31st  July,  feast  of  the  great  "  Loyola." 
This  auspicious  coincidence  re-animated  our 
hopes,  and  roused  our  drooping  courage.  Full 
of  confidence  in  the  powerful  protection  of  our 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


69 


glorious  founder,  we  prostrated  ourselves,  and 
fervently  implored  him  not  to  abandon  us  in  our 
extreme  need.  This  duty  accomplished,  we 
hastened  on  deck,  to  await  the  return  of  the 
shallop.  It  was  not  until  11  o'clock  that  their 
little  vessel  came  alongside  the  "  Indefatigable." 
No  one  dared  interrogate  the  sailors,  for  their 
dejected  countenances  foreboded  discouraging 
tidings.  However,  the  lieutenant  assured  the 
captain  that  he  had  found  no  obstacle,  and  that 
he  had  passed  the  bar  the  preceding  night,  at 
11  o'clock,  with  five  fathoms  (30  feet)  of  water. 
Immediately  were  the  sails  unfurled,  and  the 
"  Indefatigable "  slowly  resumed  her  majestic 
course,  under  the  favor  of  a  rising  breeze.  The 
sky  was  serene,  the  sun  shone  with  unwonted 
brilliancy.  For  a  long  time  we  had  not  beheld 
so  lovely  a  day  ;  nothing  but  the  safe  entrance 
into  the  river  was  wanting,  to  render  this  the 
most  beautiful  day  of  our  voyage.  As  we  ap- 
proached, we  re-doubled  our  prayers.  All  ap- 
peared recollected,  and  prepared  for  every 
event.  Presently  our  wary  captain  gave  orders 
to  sound.  A  hardy  sailor  fastened  himself  to 
the  side  of  the  vessel,  and  lowered  the  plummet. 
Soon  was  head  the  cry,  "  Seven  fathoms."     At 

intervals  the  cry  was  repeated :  "  Six  fathoms," 

4* 


70 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


I         i 


■  t    ■ 

p ' 

^> 

i 

i  ■ 

n 


"  Five  fathoms."  It  may  bo  imaj^ined  how  our 
hearts  i)al])itated  at  each  reiteration.  But  when 
we  heard  the  thrilling  cry  of  "  Three  fathoms  "  all 
hope  vanished.  At  one  moment  it  was  thought 
the  vessel  would  be  dashed  against  the  reefs. 
The  lieutenant  said  to  the  captain,  "  We  are  be- 
tween life  and  death ;  but  we  must  advance." 
The  Lord  had  not  resolved  on  our  destruction,  but 
He  wished  to  test  the  faith  of  his  servants.  In  a 
few  moments  the  tidings  of  four  fathoms  roused 
our  sinking  spirits  :  we  breathed  once  more,  but 
the  danger  yet  impended  over  us  ;  we  had  still 
to  sail  two  miles  amidst  these  fearful  breakers. 
A  second  time  is  heard  the  chilling  cry  of  "  Three 
fathoms  ! "  "  We  have  mistaken  our  route,"  ex- 
claimed the  lieutenant.  "Bah  !"  exclaimed  the 
captain,  "  do  you  not  see  that  the  Indefatigable 
passes  over  every  thing  ?  Keep  on."  Heaven 
was  for  us  ;  otherwise,  neither  the  skill  of  our 
captain,  nor  the  sailors'  activity,  could  have  res- 
cued us  from  inevitable  death.  We  were 
amidst  the  southern  channel,  which  no  vessel 
had  ever  crossed.  A  few  moments  after  we 
learned  that  our  escape  had  been  miraculous." 

Our  vessel  had,  at  first,  taken  the  right  course 
for  entering  the  river,  but,  not  far  from  its 
mouth,  the  Columbia  divides  into  two  branches, 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


71 


forming,  as  it  were,  two  channels.  The  north- 
ern, near  Cape  Disappointment,  is  the  one  we 
should  have  followed  ;  the  southern  is  not  fre- 
quented, owing  to  the  tremendous  breakers  that 
obstruct  its  entrance,  over  which  we  had  passed, 
the  first,  and  probably  the  last.  We  also  learn- 
ed, that  the  deputy  of  Fort  Astoria,  having  de- 
scried our  vessel  two  days  before,  hastened,  with 
some  savages,  to  the  extremity  of  the  cape,  and 
endeavored,  by  means  of  large  fires,  hoisted 
flags,  and  the  firing  of  guns,  to  warn  us  of 
danger.  We  had,  indeed,  perceived  these  sig- 
nals, but  without  suspecting  they  were  intended 
for  us.  God,  no  doubt,  wished  to  show  us  that 
he  is  sufficiently  powerful  to  expose  us  to  peril, 
and  to  withdraw  us  from  it  unharmed.  Glory 
to  His  holy  name  !  glory,  also,  to  St.  Ignatius, 
who  so  visibly  protected  his  children  on  this,  his 
festal  day. 

About  4i,  a  canoe  approached  us  :  it  contain- 
ed Clatsop  Indians,  commanded  by  an  American 
resident  of  the  coast.  The  whoop  of  these  w^ild 
men  of  the  forest  much  astonished  our  fathers, 
and  the  sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  The  only  word 
we  could  distinguish  was  "  Catche,"  which  they 
vociferated  countless  times.  Our  captain  made 
them  a  sign  to  approach,  and  permitted  them  to 


f 


if 


i 


r 


'!> 


72 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


come  on  board.  The  American  immediately  ac- 
costed me,  and  spoke  of  our  perilous  situation, 
saying,  that  he  would  have  come  to  our  aid,  but 
his  Indians  refused  to  brave  the  danger.  The 
Indians,  on  their  side,  endeavored  by  signs  to 
make  us  comprehend  how  great  had  been  their 
terror,  for,  at  every  moment,  they  expected  to 
see  our  vessel  dashed  into  a  thousand  pieces. 
They  had  wept  for  us,  convinced,  that  without 
the  intervention  of  the  "  Great  Spirit,"  we  could 
never  have  escaped  the  dangers.  Verily,  these 
brave  savages  were  not  mistaken.  All  who 
know  the  history  of  our  passage  affirm  the  same  ; 
they  cease  not  to  congratulate  us  on  so  miracu- 
lous an  escape. 

The  second  visit  we  received,  was  from  some 
Tchinouks,  a  small  tribe,  inhabiting  the  immense 
forests  of  the  northern  shore.  The  Clatsops, 
whose  number  amounts  to  not  more  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  occupy  the  southern 
shore.  The  Tchinouks  inhabit  three  villages 
beyond  the  forest.  The  men  wrap  themselves 
in  blankets  when  they  appear  before  the 
"  whites,"  and  are  excessively  vain  of  their  col- 
lars and  ear-rings.  Their  disposition  is  extreme- 
ly sociable,  and  we  found  it  necessary  to  be  on 
the  reserve,  to  prevent  their  too  great  familiari- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


73 


ty.  They  are  content,  provided  they  be  not 
driven  away,  and  they  require  no  further  atten- 
tion paid  them.  They  are  of  a  peaceable  tem- 
per, and,  as  their  wants  are  easily  supplied,  they 
lead  an  inactive  and  indolent  life.  Fishing  and 
the  chase  form  their  sole  occupation.  Game 
abounds  in  their  forests,  and  their  rivers  are 
teeming  with  salmon.  After  providing  for  their 
daily  wants,  they  spend  entire  hours  motionless, 
basking  in  the  sun ;  it  is  needless  to  add,  they 
live  in  the  most  profound  ignorance  of  religion. 
These  are  the  Indians  who  have  the  custom  of 
flattening  their  children's  heads. 

The  following  morning  we  perceived  a  small 
skis'  making  its  way  towards  us.  It  belonged 
to  Mr.  Burney,  the  gentleman  who,  in  our  recent 
danger,  had  acted  so  friendly  a  part.  He  ac- 
costed us  with  the  utmost  kindness,  and  invited 
us  to  return  with  him  to  Fort  Astoria,  of  which 
he  is  the  Superintendant,  that  his  wife  and 
children  might  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  us. 
Persuaded,  that  after  so  tedious  a  voyage,  the 
visit  would  be  agreeable  to  all  parties,  I  readily 
consented.  Whilst  this  hospitable  family  were 
preparing  dinner  we  made  a  little  excursion 
into  the  neighboring  forest.  We  were  in  admi- 
ration of  the  immense  height   and  prodigious 


74 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


if. 


Il- 


bulk  of  the  fir  trees,  many  of  which  were 
two  hundred  feet  high,  and  four  and  a  half  in 
diameter.  We  beheld  one  which  measured 
forty-two  feet  in  circumference. 

After  a  ramble  of  two  hours,  Mr.  Burney  re- 
conducted us  to  the  fort.     ^'^ 

In  a  second  promenade  several  of  our  compa- 
ny greatly  admired  the  tombs  of  the  savage* 
The  deceased  is  placed  in  a  sort  of  canoe,  or 
hollow  trunk  of  a  tree  ;  the  body  is  then  cover- 
ed with  mats  or  skins  ;  and  the  savtige  entomb- 
ing consists  in  thus  suspending  the  corpse  to  the 
branches  of  trees,  or  exposing  it  on  the  banks  of 
the  river.  In  one  place  we  saw  about  twelve 
of  these  sepulchres  ;  they  are  ordinarily  found 
in  places  of  difficult  access,  the  better  to  secure 
them  from  the  rapine  of  wild  beasts.  Not  far 
from  this  cemetery  one  of  our  fathers,  more 
curious  than  the  others,  wandered  a  little  dis- 
tance into  the  woods ;  he  speedily  hastened 
back,  apparently  in  a  panic,  saying  that  he  had 
seen  the  muzzle  of  a  bear,  which  did  not  look 
very  tame. 

I  set  out  for  Fort  Vancouver  the  2d  August, 
wishing  to  reach  there  before  my  companions, 
that  I  might  inform  the  Rev.  Mr.  Blanchet  of 
our  happy  arrival.     As  to  our  fathers,  the  re- 


*' 


I 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


75 


re- 


mainder of  their  voyage  may  be  summed  up  in 
few  words.  On  the  3d  and  4th  their  vessel  was 
almost  stationary,  for  want  of  a  favorable  wind. 
At  a  glance,  their  three  days'  voyage  might  be 
measured.  Towards  evening  a  gentle  breeze 
sprung  up,  and  thus  permitted  them  to  pursue 
their  course.  In  a  few  hours  they  passed  the 
rocks,  extending  the  distance  of  six  leagues. 
They  were  then  enabled  to  keep  the  centre  of 
the  river,  where  the  numerous  windings  of  the 
stream  compelled  them  to  make  continual 
mancpuvres. 

In  this  place  the  river  is  most  magnificent : 
the  smooth  polished  surface  of  the  waters — the 
rapid  current,  almost  concealed  from  view  by 
the  contraction  of  its  rocky  bed — the  sullen 
roaring  of  tlie  waterfalls  and  cascades — produce 
upon  the  mind  an  eifect  of  sublimity  and 
grandeur  not  to  be  described.  One  is  never 
wearv  adniirinc:  the  ricliness,  beauty,  and  vane- 
ty  of  these  solitary  regions.  'J'he  shores  on 
either  side  arc  bordered  by  lofty  forests,  and 
crowned  with  thickly- wooded  forests.  It  is 
more  especially  in  the  forest  that  the  grand,  the 
picturesfjue,  the  sublime,  the  beautil'ul,  form  the 
most  sin'j:ul;ir  and  iUntastic  combinat  ions.  From 
the  loftiest  giants  of  the  forest  down  to  the  hum- 


I 


l\  l> 


7G 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


in-. 


r» 


:i! 


Ml 


;  i! 


»# 
" 


blest  shrubs,  all  excite  the  spectator's  astonish- 
ment. The  parasites  form  a  characteristic  fea- 
ture of  these  woodlands.  They  cling  to  the 
tree,  climb  it  to  a  certain  height,  and  then, 
letting  their  tops  fall  to  the  earth,  again  take 
root — again  shoot  up — push  from  branch  to 
branch — from  tree  to  tree,  in  every  direction — 
until  tangled,  twisted,  and  knotted  in  every  possi- 
ble form,  they  festoon  the  whole  forest  with  dra- 
pery in  which  a  ground- work  of  the  richest  ver- 
dure is  diversified  with  garlands  of  the  most  va- 
ried and  many-colored  flowers.  In  ascending  the 
Columbia  we  meet,  from  time  to  time,  with  bays 
of  considerable  extent,  interspersed  with  hand- 
some little  islands,  which,  thrown,  as  it  were, 
like  groups  of  flowers  and  verdure,  present  a 
charming  spectacle.  Here  the  painter  should 
go  to  study  his  art — here  would  he  find  the  love- 
liest scenery,  the  most  varied  and  brilliant  color- 
ing. At  every  step  the  scene  becomes  more 
ravishing;  the  perspective  more  noble  and  ma- 
jestic. In  no  other  part  of  the  world  is  nature 
so  great  a  cof/ucUe  as  here. 

At  length,  on  the  5th  August,  the  vessel  ar- 
rived at  Fort  Vancouver,  about  7  o'clock  i r»,  the 
evening.  The  governor,  an  excellent  and  truly 
pious  man,  together  with  his  lady,  and  the  most 


I 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


77 


respectable  personages  of  the  place,  were  as- 
sembled on  the  shore  to  receive  us.  As  soon  as 
the  ship  had  cast  anchor  we  landed,  and  hasten- 
ed to  the  fort,  where  we  were  received  and 
treated  with  all  possible  cordiality.  Here  we 
were  obliged  to  tarry  eight  days,  for  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Blanchet,  who  did  not  arrive  till  the  12th, 
not  having  recei\'ed  my  letter,  informing  him  of 
our  arrival.  No  sooner  was  he  aware  of  it  than 
he  hastened  to  join  us,  bringing  with  him  a  con- 
siderable number  of  parishi-mers.  lie  had 
travelled  the  entire  night  and  day,  and  we  were 
delighted  to  meet  this  indefatigable  clergyman. 
Though  so  comfortably  situated  at  the  fort,  yet 
we  were  anxious  to  arrive  as  soon  as  possible  at 
the  place  destined  us  by  Divine  Providence.  The 
pious  religious  likewise  sighed  after  their  con- 
vent home  of  Willamette.  Monsieur  Blanchet 
accordingly  made  the  necessary  arrangement 
for  our  departure,  and  we  left  Fort  Vancouver 
on  the  14lh. 

An  aflVeting  adieu  awaited  us.  Our  worthy 
captain  stood  upon  the  shore.  The  emotion 
was  sensibly  felt  by  each  one  of  us.  For  eight 
months  we  had  shanul  tlie  same  dangers,  and 
so  often  stood  togtilier,  gazing  in  the  very  face 
of  death  :  could  we   then  restrain  the  parting 


i 
i 


78 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


.1' 


1 


tear,  which  seemed  to  gush  from  the  fountain  of 
the  heart,  as  we  remembered  his  kindness. 

Our  little  squadron  consisted  of  four  canoes, 
manned  by  the  parishioners  of  Mr.  Blanchet, 
and  our  own  sloop.  We  sailed  up  the  river, 
and  soon  entered  the  Willamette,  whose  waters 
flow  into  the  Columbia. 

As  night  approached  we  moored  our  vessels 
and  encamped  upon  the  shore.  There,  grouped 
around  the  fire,  we  partook  of  our  evening  meal. 
The  night  was  calm  and  serene — all  nature 
was  h;.^hed  in  profound  silence — all  invited  us 
to  repose  ;  but  the  swarms  of  musqueto«^s  with 
which  these  woods  abound,  prevented  our  slum- 
ber. The  religious,  to  whom  we  had  yielded 
the  tent,  suffered  equally  with  those  who  had 
nothing  but  the  star-spangled  canopy  of  heaven 
above  them.  You  will  not,  consequently,  be 
surprised,  thnt  the  night  appeared  somewhat 
long,  and  that  the  morning's  dawn  (bund  us  on 
foot.  It  was  thv^  festival  of  the  glorious  As- 
sumption of  the  Mother  of  God,  which,  in  these 
regions,  is  usually  solemnized  on  the  following 
Sunday.  Aided  by  the  religious,  J  erected  a 
small  altar.  Mr.  Blanchet  offered  the  Holy 
Sacrifice,  at  which  all  communicated. 

Finally,  the  17th,  about  11  o'clock,  we  came 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


79 


in  sight  of  our  dear  mission  of  Willamette. 
Mr.  Blancliet  charged  himself  with  the  trans- 
portation of  our  baggage.  A  cart  was  pro- 
cured to  conduct  the  religious  to  their  dwelling, 
which  is  about  five  miles  from  the  river.  In 
two  hours  we  were  all  assembled  in  the  chapel 
of  Willamette,  to  adore  and  thank  our  Divine 
Saviour,  by  the  solemn  chanting  of  the  Te 
Deum,  in  which  all  aearts  and  lips  joined  with 
lively  emotion. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  Sunday,  the  18th, 
the  day  on  which  the  Assumption  is  celebrated 
here,  we  saw  the  Canadian  cavaliers  arriving  in 
crowds  with  their  wives  and  children,  whom 
they  had  brought  from  great  distances,  to  assist 
at  the  solemn  services  of  the  church. 

At  9  o'clock  all  were  arranged  in  perfect 
order  in  the  church  ;  the  men  on  one  side,  the 
women  on  the  other.  The  K*  v.  Mr.  Blanchet 
celebrate;!  the  Auuust  Sac-iflce,  assisted  by 
twenty  acol^  tes.  Tlie  piety  of  his  parishioners 
contributed  much  to  our  edification. 

On  arriving  at  the  mission  of  St.  Paul,  of 
Wilhimette,  we  proc(MHled  at  once  to  the  resi- 
dence of  the  A^eiy  Rev.  Mr.  IJlanchet,  who  re- 
ceived u«  with  the  greatest  kindness,  and  im- 
mediately placed  at  our  disposal  e .  erything  on 


f;  )  ■■, 


V  , 

il  . 

"'M 

80 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


the  place.  My  first  care  was,  to  seek  some 
convenient  locality  where,  according  to  the  plan 
of  our  Very  Rev.  Father  General,  a  mother  mis- 
sion could  be  established.  For  this  purpose  I 
made  several  unsuccessful  excursions  into  the 
adjacent  country.  The  most  eligible  situations 
were  already  occupied.  The  Methodists,  in- 
deed, offered  to  sell  me  their  Academy,  which  is 
a  sulTiciently  large  and  handsome  house,  but 
entirely  destitute  of  wood  and  arable  laud.  In 
tl  is  perplexity  Mr.  Blanchet  relieved  me,  by  a 
g.nerous  and  disinterested  oflcr.  He  proposed 
tr>  examine  the  property  belonging  to  the  mis- 
■-lon,  and  take  such  portions  of  it  as  I  should 
judge  most  proper  for  oar  projected  establish- 
ment. We  accordingly  set  out  on  this  new  ex- 
cursion ;  but  we  hnd  scarcely  proceeded  two 
miles  when  we  came  to  a  point  uniting  every 
desirable  advantage.  Picture  to  yourself  an 
immense  plain  extending  as  far  .as  the  eye 
can  r'^ach  ;  on  one  side  the  snow  y  crests  of  the 
gigantio  Hood,  Jefferson,  and  St.  Helena  (the 
three  highest  peal  s  of  Oregon),  towering  ma- 
jestically upwards,  f;nd  losing  ^hvnnselves  in  the 
clouds;  on  the  east  a  long  range  of  distant  hills, 
their  blue-tinged  sunnnits  melting,  as  it  were, 
into  the  deep  azure  of  the  sky ;  on  the  west  the 


-,.i.*. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


m 


i  1 


eye 
>t'  the 
(the 


i 


limpid  waters  of  two  small  lakes,  on  whose 
beautiful  shores  the  beaver,  the  otter,  and  the 
musk-rat,  sport  in  careless  security,  heedless  of 
our  presence.  The  elevation  on  which  we  were 
standing,  gradually  sloping  downward,  and 
forming  a  charming  amphitheatre,  extended  to 
the  borders  of  one  of  the  lakes.  I  hesitated  not 
a  moment  in  selecting  this  spot  for  the  mother 
mission.  The  sweet  recollections  of  our  first 
establishment  on  the  Missouri  returned  to  my 
mind  ;  and  the  remembrance  of  the  rapid  pro- 
gress of  the  Mission  of  St.  Stanislaus,  near  St. 
Ferdinand,  whose  branches  now  extend  over 
the  greater  part  of  Missouri,  Ohio,  Louisiana, 
reaching  even  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  pene- 
trating to  the  eastern  boundary  of  America,  led 
me  to  breathe  a  fervent  prayer,  that  here,  also, 
might  be  formed  a  station,  whence  the  torch  of 
faith  would  dilfuse  its  cheering  light  among  the 
benighted  tribes  of  this  immense  Territory. 
We  have  also  a  line  view  of  the  \Viilan:ette 
River,  which,  in  this  pUice,  makes  a  sadden 
bend,  continuing  its  course  amidst  dense  forests, 
which  promise  an  almost  inexhaustible  supply 
of  materials  for  the  construction  of  our  mission 
house.  In  no  part  of  tliis  region  have  I  met 
with  a  more  luxuriant  growth  of  pine,  fir,  elm, 


1i 


If    t 


t_ 

■  ;i| 

■  f 

■'If 

> 

i-s! 

.    «. 

■; 

.      i 

i 

i 
1  • 

i 

82 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


oak,  buttonbaU,  and  yew  trees.  The  inter- 
vening country  is  beautifully  diversified  with 
shadowy  groves  and  smiling  plains,  whose  rich 
soil  yields  abundant  harvests,  sufficient  for  the 
maintenance  of  a  large  establishment.  Besides 
these  advantages,  there  are  a  number  of  springs, 
on  one  side  of  the  hill,  one  of  which  is  not  more 
than  100  feet  from  the  house,  and  it  will  proba- 
bly be  of  great  use  hereafter.  Having  now 
made  choice  of  the  locality,  we  commenced 
without  delay  the  erection  of  tiie  buildings* 
The  first  thing  to  be  done  was  to  clear  the 
ground  by  cutting  away  the  under-brush  and 
isolated  trees,  after  which,  with  the  aid  of  the 
inhabitants,  we  constructed  three  wooden  build- 
ings, covered  by  a  single  roof  of  90  feet ;  these 
were  to  serve  as  workshops  for  the  brother 
blacksmith,  carpenter,  etc. 

Besides  these,  a  house,  45  by  35  feet,  is  now 
under  way.  It  is  to  be  two  stories,  and  will 
be  the  dwelling-house  of  the  missionaries. 

We  arrived  in  the  Oregon  Territory  dunng 
the  prevalence  of  a  disease  (bloody  flux)  which 
was  considered  contagious.  Though  tlie  physi- 
cians attributed  it  to  the  unwholesome  proper- 
ties of  the  river-water.  Numbers  of  savages 
fell  victims  to  it,  especially  among  the  Tchi- 


1 

I 


-4.^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


83 


nter- 
with 
i  rich 
r  the 
isides 
rings, 
more 
iroba- 

now 
enced 
dings* 
,r  the 
ti  and 
of  the 
build- 

these 
rother 

s  now 
d  will 

|[luring 
I  which 
Iphysi- 
^roper- 
Lvages 
Tchi- 


nouks,  and  the  Indians  of  the  Cascades,  large 
parties  of  whom  encamped  along  the  banks  of 
the  river,  on  their  way  to  Vancouver,  to  obtain 
the  aid  of  a  physician.  Those  who  could  not 
proceed  were  abandoned  by  their  friends ;  and 
it  was  truly  painful  to  see  these  poor  creatures 
stretched  out,  and  expiring  on  the  sand.  The 
greater  part  of  our  sailors,  and  three  of  the 
sisters,  were  attacked  by  the  pestilence ;  the 
Rev.  Father  Accolti  also  experienced  its  terrible 
effects  ;  for  myself,  I  was  obliged  to  keep  my 
bed  during  15  long  days,  and  to  observe  a  rigo- 
rous diet.  But  the  captain  of  our  vessel  was 
the  greatest  sufferer.  The  disease  attacked 
him  so  violently,  that  I  seriously  fear  he  will 
never  again  return  to  the  cherished  family — the 
affectionate  wife  and  children  of  whom  he  used 
daily  to  speak  with  so  much  tenderness.  He 
was  a  worthy  man — an  experienced  and  skilfu] 
navigator  ;  I  esteemed  him  highly,  although  I 
could  not  forbear  blaming  him  for  the  little 
courage  he  had  shown  in  repressing  the  profane 
language  of  one  of  the  passengers,  who,  i'rom 
the  time  of  his  embarkation  until  we  landed  him 
at  Fort  Vancouver,  had  never  ceased  to  offend 
our  ears  by  his  horrid  oaths.  The  Almighty  has 
denounced  his  curse  against  the  blasphemer ' 


1  i' 


f 


.  r 


84 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


iff 
i 


and  sooner  or  later  it  will  fall  upon  him.     Poor 
"  Indefatigable,"  I  tremble  for  thy  fate. 

The  winter  was  rapidly  approaching,  and, 
notwithstanding  my  weak  state,  I  could  i^ot  re- 
sist my  pressing  desire  to  visit,  once  more,  my 
dear  Indians  of  the  mountains,  who,  on  their 
side,  await  my  return  with  the  greatest  impa- 
tience, as  I  was  informed  by  the  Rev.  F.  Men- 
garini,  who  had  come  to  meet  me.  To-day  I 
shall  have  the  happiness  to  set  out  for  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

I  am,  &:c., 

P.  J.  DE  SMET. 

P.  S. — On.  the  9th  September  the  good  sis- 
ters commenced  instructing  the  women  and 
childien,  who  were  preparing  for  their  first  com- 
munion. As  their  house  was  not  yet  habitable, 
they  were  obliged  to  give  their  instructions  in 
the  open  air.  In  three  days'  time  they  had  al- 
ready 19  pupils,  from  16  to  60  years  of  age,  all 
of  whom  came  from  a  distance,  bringing  with 
them  provisions  for  several  days,  and  sleeping 
in  the  woods,  exposed  to  all  the  inclemencies  of 
the  weather.  It  is  easy  to  conceive  by  this  how 
eager  these  poor  people  are  for  instruction. 
Each  day  the  sisters  devote  six  hours  to  teach" 


Poor 

g,  and, 
uot  re- 
)re,  my 
m  their 
t  impa- 
\  Men- 
'o-day  I 
B  Rocky 


GT. 


ood  sis- 
len   and 
rst  com- 
ibitable, 
tions  in 
had  al- 
age,  all 
ng  with 
sleeping 
encies  of 
this  how 
truction. 
o  teach^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


85 


ing  them  the  usual  prayers,  and  manner  of 
making  the  sign  of  the  cross.  On  one  occasion, 
it  was  discovered  that  a  woman  had  remained 
two  days  without  food  ;  the  dogs  had  devoured 
her  little  provision,  and,  lest  she  should  miss  the 
instruction,  she  was  unwilling  to  go  home  for 
another  supply. 

24th. — The  convent  having  as  yet  neither 
doors  nor  sashes,  owing  to  t!'<^  scarcity  of  me- 
chanics, some  of  these  goou  .^jisters  were  seen 
endeavoring  to  handle  the  plane,  others  glazing, 
painting  the  windows  and  doors,  &c.  They 
were  the  more  ardently  desirous  for  the  comple- 
tion of  their  new  habitation,  as  already  thirty 
Canadian  pupils  had  been  offered  them ;  and 
thus  would  they  be  enabled  to  procure  the 
means  of  giving  a  gratuitous  support  and  pro- 
tection to  the  hapless  orphans  of  the  forests. 
These  poor  children,  rescued  from  their  desti- 
tute condition,  and  placed  under  the  benign  care 
of  the  kind  Sisters,  would  enjoy  the  blessings  of 
a  Christian  education,  and  become,  one  day,  co- 
operators  in  the  mission.  But,  to  eflect  this,  and 
to  realize  the  cheering  hopes  it  holds  forth,  funds 
must  be  raised  to  provide  the  necessary  clothing 
for  the  orphans,  as  the  profits  arising  from  the 
school  will  not  be  more  than  sufficient  to  defray 


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OREGON      MISSIONS. 


u 


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ir. 


I  1 


the  expenses  of  their  board.     I  here  give  you  the 
brilliant  prospectus  of  their  Academy.    Per  quar- 
ter, lOOlbs  flour,  25lbs  pork,  or  36  of  beef,  1  sack 
of  potatoes,  4lbs  hogs'  lard,  3  gallons  peas,  3  doz. 
eggs,  1  gallon  salt,  4lbs  candles,  lib  tea,  4lbs  rice. 
The  Sisters  took  possession  of  their  convent  in 
the  month  of  October ;  a  few  days  after,  their 
chapel  was  solemnly  consecrated  by  the   Rev. 
Mr.  Blanchet ;  and  they  have  since  enjoyed  the 
happiness  of  assisting  every  day  at  the   Holy 
Sacrifice  of  the  Mass,  ofliered  up  at  their  simple 
altar  by  one  of  the  missionaries,  stationed  at  St. 
Francis  Xavier.     They  have  also  twice  had  the 
consolation  of  presenting  at   the  table  of  the 
Lord  the  little  band  of  fervent  neophytes,  whom 
they  had  prepared  with  so  much  care,  for  this 
solemn  action.     This  success,  in  so  short  a  time, 
has  induced  us  to  conceive  the  project  of  found- 
ing another  house  of  this  order  in  the  village  of 
Cuhutc.      Monsieur   Blanchet   and   Father   De 
Vos  think,  that  the  departure  of  the  Protestant 
ministers,  on  account  of  their  fruitless  labors, 
renders  this  an  auspicious  moment  for  the  es- 
tablishment of  a  religious  house.     The  station 
of  Willamette  would   furnish  occupation   sufli- 
cient  for  twelve  Sisters,  but  unfortunately  they 
are  but  six  in  number. 


II 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


87 


We  le.arn  with  pleasure  that  it  is  the  inten- 
tion of  Monseigneur  Blanchet  to  visit  Europe 
immediately  after  his  consecration,  in  order  to 
obtain,  if  possible,  twelve  more  of  these  zeiilous 
and  devoted  religious,  for  the  mission.  God 
grant  he  may  succeed  ;  and  that  the  want  of 
pecuniary  means  may  not  oppose  an  insur- 
mountable obstacle  to  the  generous  sacrifice, 
which,  we  are  all  well-assured,  the  pious  Sisters 
of  the  Congregation  of  Notre  Dame  are  disposed 
to  make  again  in  our  behalf. 


88 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


No.  III. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


V  ' 


•J 


V'' 

I 


1 


\^' 


At  the  Foot  of  the  Great  (lluciere,  one  of  the  Upper 
Sources  of  the  Athabasca  lliver,  May,  Gth,  184G. 

MoNSEiGXEUR, — I  aiu  lato,  but  not  forgetlul  of 
my  duty  and  promisrs,  Ibr  I  will  remem])rr  the 
many  obligations  I  have  contracted,  and  the 
happy  hours  1  passed,  when  travelling  in  your 
paternity's  company.  I  now  come  to  redeem 
them,  by  troubling  you  with  a  dozen  Rocky 
Mountain  letters,  including  a  narrative  of  my 
last  year's  excursions  and  missions  among  seve- 
ral Indian  tribes  ;  of  what  I  have  seen  and 
heard  ;  and  of  what  happened,  as  I  was  travelling 
along.  I  hope  my  letters  m.ay  be  consoling  to 
you,  and  serve  as  a  proof  that  the  work  of  God 
is  progressing  among  the  long-benighted  chil- 
dren of  the  Oregon  d(^sert,  and  among  the  lone- 
ly tribes  on  the  northern  waters  of  the  great 
Mackenzie  River.  Four  priests  from  Red  River 
will  soon  find  ample  employment  in  the  dreary 
regions  of  the  Hudson  Ray  Territory.  How 
lamentable  it  is,  that  the  great  western  desert 
alone,  extending  from  the  States  to  the  eastern 


O  R  E  r.  C)  N       MISSIONS. 


89 


base  of  tlie  Rocky  Mountains,  and  south  to  the 
Mexican  lines,  should  be  lyinji^  waste.  This 
^vould,  indeed,  present  an  extensive  field  to  the 
zeal  of  Catholic  missionaries  ;  and,  iVoin  my 
personal  observations,  and  those  of  all  the 
priests  who  have  passed  this  d(»sert,  their  efforts 
would  be  crowned  with  the  greatest  success. 
Indi.'ins  are,  in  general,  carelessly  judged  and 
little  known  in  the  civilized  world ;  people  will 
form  their  opinions  from  what  they  see  among 
the  Indians  on  the  frontiers,  where  the  "  lire 
w^ater,"  and  all  the  degrading  vices  of  the 
whites  have  caused  the  greatest  havoc.  The 
farther  one  penetrates  into  the  desert  the  better 
he  linds  the  aborigines  ;  and,  in  general,  1  found 
them  most  willing  and  anxious  to  n^ceive  re- 
ligious instruction,  and  to  hear  the  good  tidings 
of  salvation. 

A  bishop,  and  two  or  three  priests,  who 
would  make  it  their  business  to  visit  the  difler- 
ent  tribes  of  this  vast  land,  remaining  among 
each  of  the  trib(»s  a  reasonable  and  sulficit^nt 
time  to  instruct  the  Indians,  would  most  certain- 
ly meet  with  the  most  abundant  harvest  ;  the 
^5calping-knife  might  thus  soon  be  laid  aside, 
and  where  the  Indian  war-whoop  has  for  cen- 
turies resounded,  might  be  h<*ard  in  its  stead, 


*^: 


li  i 


»■    .5 


V 


f'    ) 


h'P 


90 


OREGON       MISSKJNS. 


the  canticles  and  praises  of  the  true  and  only 
living  God.  The  idea  of  collecting  and  settling 
these  wandering  nations,  would,  in  my  humble 
opinion,  be  impossible,  or,  at  least,  a  very  slow 
work.  The  Indians  might  be  made  good  Chris- 
tians, and  still  continue,  at  the  same  time,  to 
lead  a  hunter's  life,  as  long  as  buffalo  and  deer 
will  supply  their  wants. 

Nothing,  but  the  interest  I  feel  for  these  poor 
people,  and  the  assurance  I  have  that  they  will 
find  a  patron  and  friend  in  your  paternity,  make 
me  bold  enough  to  make  an  appeal  to  you  in 
their  favor,  so  that  a  speedy  remedy  may  be 
applied  to  the  existing  and  most  distressing 
want  of  this  Large  district  of  the  United  States. 
Thousands  of  whites  are  well  cared  for  and  are 
straying  from  the  true  path — th(^  Indians  have 
likewise  souls  to  be  saved,  redeemed  by  the 
Saviour's  precious  blood,  and  thousands  of  these 
bereft  children  are  most  anxious  to  enjoy  the 
salutary  blessings  with  which  their  white  breth- 
ren are  favored. 

I  remain,  with  the  greatest  esteem  and  re- 
spect, recommending  myself  at  the  same  time  to 
your  holy  sacrifices  and  prayers. 

Your  very  humble  and  obedient  servJint  in 
Christ.  P.  I.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


*  ■!.;* 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


01 


No.  IV. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


St.  Francis  Xavier,  Willamette, 
June  20th,  1845. 

Right  Rev.  Bishop, 

Sir, — In  the  beginning  of  February,  I  set  out  to 
visit  our  different  settlements  and  stations,  and 
to  form  new  ones  among  the  neighboring  tribes 
of  our  reductions.  The  entire  surfece  of  this 
region  was  then  covered  with  snow,  five  feet 
deep  ;  and  I  was  compelled  to  go  from  the  Bay 
of  Pends-d'oreilles  to  the  Horse  Plain,  in  a  bark 
canoe,  a  distance  of  250  miles. 

I  was  among  my  dear  Flatheads  and  Pends- 
d'oreilles  (ear-rings)  of  the  mountains,  during 
the  Paschal  time,  and  had  the  great  consolation 
of  finding  them  replete  with  zeal  and  fervor  in 
fulfilling  the  duties  of  true  children  of  prayer. 
The  solemn  feast  of  Easter,  all  the  Flatheads  at 
St.  Mary's  devoutly  approached  the  most  bless- 
ed sacrament  during  my  mass  ;  and  about  three 
hundred  Pends-d'oreilles ^  (the  greater  number 
adults),  belonging  to  the  station  of  St.  Francis 


.-'.  •^ 

■■'i 


92 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


if  ^ 

il  \ 


Borgia,  presented  themselves  at  the  baptismal 
font.  Five  chiefs  were  among  the  number  ;  the 
most  distinguished  are  SlietticdloodshOf  or  chief- 
tain of  the  Tribe  Valiant ;  Sclpisto^  the  head 
chieftain,  and  Chalax^  that  is  to  say  the  White 
Rohe,  surnamed  the  Juggler  or  great  medicine 
man.  The  word  medicine  man,  in  their  language, 
is  synonymous  with  juggler. 

How  consoling  it  is  to  pour  the  regenerating 
waters  of  baptism  on  the  furrowed  and  scarified 
brows  of  these  desert  warriors, — to  behold 
these  children  of  the  plains  and  forests  emerg- 
ing from  that  profound  ignorance  and  supersti- 
tion in  which  they  have  been  for  so  many  ages 
deeply  and  darkly  enveloped  ;  to  see  them  em- 
brace the  faith  and  all  its  sacred  practices,  with 
an  eagerness,  an  attention,  a  zeal,  worthy  the 
pristine  Christians. 

Were  I  to  give  you  the  history  of  these  chiefs, 
I  should  greatly  exceed  the  limits  I  have  pro- 
posed. Suffice  it  to  say,  that  these  heroes  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  have  been  for  years  the 
terror  of  their  enemies.  Chalax  had  acquired 
great  celebrity  as  a  juggler,  and  in  predicting 
future  events ;  if  we  may  credit  the  Kalispels 
and  the  whites  who  have  travelled  in  company 
with  him,  these  prophecies  have  been  verified. 


nal 
the 
ief- 
ead 
kite 
;ine 
ige, 


ing 
fied 
lold 
jrg- 
•sti- 
ges 
em- 
nth 
the 

efs, 
3ro- 
s  of 
the 
ired 
ting 
pels 
any 
led. 


Iff 


" 


I 


ft 


II 


■■o 

p  ■ 

H 

-J 


C/5 


-y3 

o 

Pi- 


r— I 


c 


,1 


I'l^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


03 


■V 

en 


O 


2: 

r— ' 


c 


IIo  indicated  tho  day,  the  place,  and  the  numher 
of  Bldchfcct  who  would  attack  their  camp. 
Having  interrogated  him  relative  to  this  all'air, 
he,  with  great  simplicity  and  candor,  replied  : 
"  I  am  called  the  Great  Doctor,  yet,  never  have 
I  given  myself  up  to  the  practices  of  Juggling, 
nor  condescended  to  exercise  its  deceptions.  I 
derive  all  my  strength  from  prayer  ;  when  in  a 
hostile  country,  I  address  myself  to  the  Master 
of  life,  and  offer  Him  my  heart  and  soul,  en- 
treating him  to  protect  us  against  our  enemies. 
A  voice  had  ah'eady  warned  me  of  coming 
danger ;  I  then  recommend  prudence  and 
vigilance  throughout  the  camp  ;  for  the  moni- 
tory voice  has  never  dec(uved  me.  I  have  now 
a  favor  to  request:  the  mysterious  voice  calls 
me  hy  the  name  of  Chah(x\  and,  if  you  will 
permit,  I  desire  to  bear  that  name  until  my 
death."  I  willingly  consented,  Jind  then  ex- 
plained to  him  the  ceremony  of  the  White  Gar- 
vient  he  was  about  to  receive,  in  the  holy  sacra- 
ment of  baptism.  To  the  name  of  Chalax  I 
afiixed  that  of  the  Prince  of  the  Apostles.  This 
is  the  same  chief,  who  on  my  first  visit  to  the 
mountains,  aided  by  only  sixty  men,  sustained 
during  live  days,  an  obstinate  struggle  against 
200  lodges  of  Blachfcct, 


>■;* 


I-  ••  ?■ 


Oi 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


i 
I 


leaving  on  the  p^round  eighty  men,  whilst 
among  the  Flathcads  only  one  man  was  wound- 
ed,    lie  died  three  months  after. 

With  regret  I  parted  from  these  good  Indians, 
and  my  beloved  brothers  in  .Tesus  Christ,  the 
Rev.  Fathers  Mengarini,  Zerbinati,  and  four 
coadjutor  brothers  ;  who  are  laboring  with  in- 
defatigable zeal  in  this  portion  of  our  Lord's 
vineyard. 

As  the  snow  was  fast  disappearing,  the  Kalis- 
pels  of  the  bay  were  awaiting  my  arrival.  I 
re-entered  my  fragile  canoe,  guided  by  two 
Indians,  and  made  all  possible  haste  to  descend 
Clarke's  River.  You  may  judge  of  its  impetu- 
osity when  I  inform  you,  that  we  were  sixteen 
days  ascending  the  river,  and  but  four  in  de- 
scending the  same.  On  returning  to  the  bay, 
accompanied  by  Rev.  Father  Ilocken  and  seve- 
ral chiefs,  my  first  care  was  to  examine  the 
lands  belonging  to  this  portion  of  the  Tribe  of 
Kalispels,  and  select  a  fit  site  for  erecting  the 
new  establishment  of  St.  Ignatius.  We  found 
a  vast  and  beautiful  prairie,  three  miles  in  ex- 
tent, surrounded  by  cedar  and  pine,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  cavern  of  New  Manrese, 
and  its  quarries,  and  a  fall  of  water  more  than 
two  hundred  feet,   presenting  every  advantage 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


95 


for  the  erection  of  mills.  I  felled  the  first  tree, 
and  after  having  taken  all  necessary  measures 
to  expedite  the  work,  1  departed  for  Walla 
Walla,  where  I  embarked  in  a  small  boat  and 
descended  the  Columbia,  as  far  as  Fort  Van- 
couver. The  melting  of  the  snow  had  occa- 
sioned a  considerable  freshet,  and  our  descent 
was  very  rapid.  The  place  was  indicated  to 
me  where  a  few  months  previously,  four  travel- 
lers from  the  United  States  had  miserably  per- 
ished, victims  of  their  own  temerity  and  pre- 
sumption. When  advised  to  pvovide  themselves 
with  a  guide,  they  answered  they  had  no  need 
of  any  ;  and  when  warned  that  the  river  was 
dangerous  and  deceptive,  the  pilot,  with  a  scoff- 
ing boast,  replied,  "  I  am  capable  of  guiding  my 
barge,  were  it  even  across  the  infernal  gulf." 
The  monitor  wished  them  a  fortunate  voyage, 
but  at  the  same  time  trembled  for  their  fate, 
saying :  "  This  pilot  is  not  a  native  Indian,  he 
is  not  an  Iroquois,  nor  even  a  Canadian."  The 
turbulent  stream  soon  engulfed  its  presumptuous 
and  daring  victims.  They  steered  out  into  the 
midst  of  the  river,  and  in  an  instant  the  canoe 
was  borne  along  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning, 
leaving  in  its  train  a  thick  foam,  caused  by  the 
violent  plying  of  oars.     Approaching  the  rapids, 


Si'l 


96 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


'^f 


4  I 


i 
III 


they  fearlessly  hurried  onward — alas,  their  fate 
was  soon  to  be  decided.  Drawn  by  the  eddy 
into  the  centre  of  a  whirlpool,  vainly  they 
struggled  to  extricate  themselves — they  beheld 
the  dread  abyss  yawning  to  receive  its  prey ! 
Yet,  an  instant,  the  ill-fated  barge  twirled  upon 
the  surface,  and  then  sank,  amidst  the  despair- 
ing shrieks  of  the  helpless  crew,  which  the 
roaring  waves  rendered  the  more  appalling, 
whilst  the  dismal  sounds  re-echoing  from  shore 
to  shore,  proclaimed  the  new  disaster  of  the 
"Columbia."  Soon  the  waters  resumed  their 
wonted  course,  and*  left  no  trace  of  the  sad 
catastrophe.  This  fatal  spot  might  appropriately 
be  designated,  Presumptive's  R«apids  ;  doubtless, 
it  will  be  a  lesson  to  future  boasters,  not  to 
venture,  without  pilot  or  guide,  upon  this  for- 
midable tributary  of  the  western  ocean. 

After  a  prosperous  voyage  of  five  days,  I  de- 
barked at  Vancouver,  where  I  had  the  happiness 
of  meeting  Father  Nobili,  who,  during  eight 
months,  had  applied  himself  to  study  the  Indian 
language,  while  he  exercised  his  sacred  min- 
istry among  the  Catholics  of  the  fort  and  the 
Indians  of  the  neighborhood.  More  than  a 
tenth  of  the  latter  had  been  swept  off  by  a 
mortal  disease ;  happily,  they  all  had  the  con- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


97 


solation   of  receiving   baptism  before  they  ex- 
pired. 

Father  Nobili  accompanied  me  in  a  Tchi- 
nouk  canoe,  up  the  beautiful  River  of  Multono- 
mah  or  Willamette,  a  distance  of  about  sixty 
miles,  as  far  as  the  village  of  Champois,  three 
miles  from  our  residence  of  St.  Francis  Xavier. 
On  our  arrival  all  the  fathers  came  to  meet  us, 
and  great  was  our  delight  in  being  .again  re- 
united after  a  long  winter  season.  The  Italian 
fathers  had  Jipplied  themselves  chiefly  to  the 
study  of  languages.  Father  Ravalli,  being 
skilled  in  medicine,  rendered  considerable  ser- 
vices to  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Paul's  Mission  ; 
for  every  dwelling  contained  several  sick.  Fa- 
ther Vercruysse,  at  the  request  of  Right.  Rev. 
Bishop  Blanchet,  opened  a  mission  among  the 
Canadians  who  were  distant  from  St.  PauFs, 
and  he  succeeded  in  causing  them  to  contribute 
to  the  erection  of  a  new  church,  in  a  central 
location.  Father  De  Vos  is  the  only  one  of  our 
fathers  of  Willamette  who  speaks  Finglish.  He 
devotes  his  whole  attention  to  the  Americans, 
whose  number  already  exceeds  4,000.  There  are 
several  Catholic  families,  and  our  dissenting  bre- 
thren seem  well  disposed  ;  many  among  them 
are  eager  to  be  instructed  in  the  Catholic  faith. 


t,:  I' 


I 


^^^ 


98 


I 


i 


-     ;, 


f 


i\ 


III 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


Nowhere  does  religion  make  greater  progress, 
or  present  brighter  prospects  for  the  future,  than 
in  Oregon  Territory.  The  Very  Rev.  Mr.  De- 
mers,  Vicar  General  and  Administrator  of  the 
diocess  in  the  absence  of  the  bishop,  is  prepar- 
ing to  build  a  brick  cathedral.  There  is  now 
being  built,  under  his  superintendence,  a  fine 
church  at  the  Falls  of  Willamette,  where,  three 
years  ago,  was  commenced  the  first  town  of 
Oregon.  This  rising  village  numbers  more  than 
100  houses.  Several  lots  have  been  selected 
for  a  convent  and  two  schools.  A  Catholic 
church  has  been  erected  at  Vancouver. 

The  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Notre  Dame  is 
fast  progressing,  and  it  will  be  the  finest  build- 
ing of  Willamette.  The  church  is  eighty  feet 
long,  and  proportionably  wide  ;  it  is  under  the 
invocation  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  The  religious 
have  already  fifty  boarders.  The  Bishop's  Col- 
lege, under  the  management  of  the  Very  Rev. 
Mr.  Bolduc,  is  very  prosperous.  The  number 
of  pupils  has  augmented ;  forty  young  men, 
chiefly  Metisy  are  receiving  a  Christian  educa- 
tion. Some  years  ago,  a  church  was  erected  at 
Cowlitz,  and  the  inhabitants  are  now  preparing 
to  construct  a  convent  under  the  direction  of 
Rev.  Mr.  Langlois. 


k 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


90 


Our  residence  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  is  com- 
pleted ;  it  will  hereafter  serve  for  a  novitiate 
and  seminary,  to  prepare  young  men  for  the 
missions. 

Measures,  which  I  trust  will  be  realized,  have 
been  taken  by  our  fathers  for  visiting,  during 
this  year,  the  numerous  tribes  inhabiting  the 
Pacific  coast  north  and  south  of  the  Columbia  ; 
where,  already,  the  visits  of  the  bishop  and  his 
grand  vicar  have  been  so  productive  of  favor- 
able results.  The  17th  Feb.,  1842,  Bishop 
Blanchet  thus  wrote  to  the  Bishop  of  Quebec : 
"  God  has  deigned  to  bless  our  labors,  and  to 
fructify  the  divine  word.  The  adorable  name 
of  Jesus  has  been  announced  to  new  nations  of 
the  north.  Mr.  Demers  bent  his  steps  to  Fort 
Langley  on  Frazer's  River,  in  which  place  he 
adminislrred  baptism  to  upwards  of  700  chil- 
dren. Many  of  them  already  enjoy  the  pre- 
cious fruits  of  reg«'ncrating  grace. 

In  my  preceding  letters,  I  gave  you  the  details 
of  our  missions  among  the  mountains  of  the 
higher  Oregon  ;  of  the  conversion  of  two  tribes, 
the  Flaf/uffds  and  the  Cnurs-<r AUnc  or  Pointed 
Hearts ;  of  the  first  communion  of  the  latter, 
and  conversion  of  several  Kfdi.spcls  of  the  Bay, 
on   the   solemn    festival    of  Christmas.      From 


i{i| 


'It 


\: 


■>    * 


\ :: 


V     ' 


\f   '■ 


I     : 


£    • 

1 

l| 

WJ   t. 

P 

N 

1 

( 

f       I- 

100 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


1839,  when  the  mission  was  established,  to  July, 
1845,  the  reverend  Canadian  missionaries  bap- 
tized 3,000  persons.  The  number  of  Catholics 
residing  at  the  different  stations  of  the  Hon. 
Hudson  Bay  Co.  in  Oregon,  together  with  the 
colonists  of  the  same  nation,  amounts  to  seve- 
ral hundreds.  By  adding  to  these  2857  bap- 
tized since  1841  in  the  different  mountain 
missions,  it  gives  us  a  total  of  more  than  6,000 
Catholics  in  Oregon.  The  diminutive  grain  of 
mustard  is  fast  extending  far  and  wide  its 
branches,  over  this  once  sterile  and  neglected 
region.  In  the  month  of  June,  Father  Nobili, 
accompanied  by  a  brother  novice,  left  Willa- 
mette to  visit  the  tribes  of  New  Caledonia. 
The  Very  Rev.  Mr.  Demcrs  saw  the  following 
named  tribes :  Kameloupsj  the  Atnans  or  Shou- 
wapcmotf  the  Portcurs  or  Ltavten,  which  names 
vary  according  to  the  different  places  where  the 
tents  are  pitched.  They  aflix  the  word  ten 
which  signifies  people,  i.  e.,  Stclaotcti,  Nashko' 
tcrif  Tchilkotcn,  Nazetcotcn.  Rev.  Mr.  Demers 
had  the  consolation  of  baptizing  486  children 
among  these  tribes. 

Such  has  since  been  the  fervor  and  zeal  of 
these  poor  Indians  ;  who.  though  deprived  of  a 
priest,  have  built  three  churches,  hoping  that  a 


OREGON       RIISSIONS. 


101 


nepapayattok,   or   father   would   settle    anion 


vr 


th 


em. 


Many  Catholics  reside  in  the  diflerent  forts 
of  this  country.  The  honorable  gentlemen  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  although  Protestants,  were 
strongly  interested  in  favor  of  these  savages, 
and  did  all  in  their  power  to  facilitate  the  intro- 
duction of  a  clergyman  into  this  portion  of  their 
jurisdiction. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  the  most  pro- 
found respect  and  esteem,  Monseigneur,  your 
most  humble  and  obedient  servant  in  Jesus 
Christ. 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


102 


OREGON      MISSIONS, 


No.  V. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


7  •■ 


Kalispel  Bay,  Aug.  7th,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — A  fcw  days  after  the  departure 
of  Father  Nobili,  who  obtained  a  place  in  a 
barge  belonging  to  the  Hon.  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  I 
started  from  St.  Francis  Xavier's  with  eleven 
horses  laden  with  ploughs,  spades,  pickaxes, 
scythes,  and  carpenters'  implements.  My  com- 
panions were  the  good  Brother  McGil,  and  two 
metis  or  mongrels.  We  encountered  many 
obstacles  and  difficulties  among  the  mountains, 
owing  to  the  cascades  formed  by  the  water, 
which,  at  this  season,  descends  on  every  side  in 
torrents,  and  with  irresistible  fury  upon  the 
rocks,  over  which  we  were  compelled  to  cross. 
In  the  narrow  valleys  between  these  mountains, 
the  rhododendron  displays  all  its  strength  and 
beauty ;  it  rises  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet.  Entire  groves  are  formed  by 
thousands  of  these  shrubs,  whose  clustering 
branches  entwine  themselves  in  beautiful  green 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


103 


arches,  adorned  with  innumerable  bouquets  of 
splendid  flowers,  varying  their  hues  from  the 
pure  white,  to  the  deepened  tint  of  the  crimson- 
ed rose. 

Our  path  was  strewed  with  the  whitened 
bones  of  horses  and  oxen,  melancholy  testimo- 
nies of  the  miseries  endured  by  other  travellers 
through  these  regions.  We  passed  the  foot  of 
Mt.  Hood,  the  most  elevated  of  this  stupendous 
chain.  It  is  covered  with  snow,  and  rises  16.000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Capt.  Wyeth, 
on  beholding  this  ridge  from  the  summit  of  the 
Blue  Mountains,  thus  speaks  of  it  in  his 
journal : — "  The  traveller  on  advancing  wester- 
ly, even  at  the  distance  of  IGO  miles,  beholds 
the  peaks  of  the  Cascade  Mountains.  Several 
of  them  rise  10,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Every  other  natural  wonder  seems  to 
dwindle,  as  it  were,  into  insignificance  when 
compared  to  this."  From  one  single  spot  I  con- 
templated seven  of  these  majestic  summits  ex- 
tending from  north  to  south,  whose  dazzling 
white  and  conic  form  resemble  a  sugar  loaf. 

We  were  twenty  days  going  from  Willamette 
to  Walla  Walla,  across  desert  and  undulating 
lands,  abounding  in  absinthium  or  wormwood, 
cactus,  tufted  grass,  and  several  species  of  such 


i'!  ..■■ 


104 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


plants  and  herbs  as  are  chiefly  found  in  a  sterile 


and 


sand 


\y  soil. 


Game  is  scarce  in  these  latitudes ;  however, 
we  found  large  partridges  and  pheasants,, 
aquatic  fowls,  small  birds  of  various  kinds, 
hares  and  rabbits.  Salamanders  swarm  in 
sandy  places,  and  armadilloes  are  not  rare  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  great  Dalles.  Fort  Walla 
Walla  is  situated  in  latitude  4G°  2',  and  longi- 
tude 119°  30'.  The  sandy  neighborhood  of  this 
settlement  likens  it  to  a  little  Arabia.  The 
River  Walla  Walla  pours  its  waters  a  mile  dis- 
tant from  the  fort.  The  lowlands,  when  water- 
ed, are  tolerably  fertile,  and  produce  maize, 
wheat,  potatoes,  and  pulse  of  every  kind. 
Cows  and  hogs  are  easily  raised,  and  horses 
abound  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Having  already  spoken  to  you  of  the  desert 
Nez-Perce  and  Spokane,  I  have  nothing  further 
to  add  relative  to  this  dreary  region.  On  ad- 
vancing easterly  towards  the  Blue  Mountains, 
we  find  beautiful  and  fertile  plains,  interspersed 
with  limpid  and  wholesome  streams.  The  val- 
leys are  picturesque,  covered  with  luxuriant 
prairies,  and  forests  of  pine  and  fir.  The  NeZ' 
Perc6  Kayuses  inhabit  these  delightful  pastures. 
They  are  the  most  wealthy  tribes  in  Oregon ; 


4 


OREGON       MISSIONS, 


105 


:erile 

ever, 
sants,. 
cinds, 
m  in 
Lre  in 
Valla 
longi- 
f  this 
The 
ie  dis- 
vater- 
naize, 
kind, 
lorses 

desert 
rther 
1  ad- 
tains, 
versed 

val- 
ariant 

Nez- 
tures. 
egon; 


even  some  private  families  possess  1500  horses. 
The  savages  successfully  cultivate  potatoes, 
pease,  corn,  and  several  kinds  of  vegetables  and 
fruits.  No  situation  affords  finer  grazing  for 
cattle  ;  even  in  winter  they  find  an  abundance, 
nor  do  they  need  shelter  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  Snow  is  never  seen,  and  the 
rains  are  neither  destructive  nor  superabundant. 

About  the  middle  of  July,  I  arrived  safely 
with  all  my  effects,  at  the  Bay  of  Kalispels.  In 
my  absence  the  number  of  neophytes  had  con- 
siderably increased.  On  the  feast  of  the  Ascen- 
sion, Father  Hocken  had  the  happiness  of  bap- 
tizing more  than  one  hundred  adults.  Since  my 
departure  in  the  spring,  our  little  colony  has 
built  four  houses,  prepared  materials  for  con- 
structing a  small  church,  and  enclosed  a  field  of 
300  acres.  More  than  four  hundred  Kalispels^ 
computing  adults  and  children  have  been  bap- 
tized. They  are  all  animated  with  fervor  and 
zeal ;  they  make  use  of  the  hatchet  and  plough, 
being  resolved  to  abandon  an  itinerant  life  for  a 
permanent  abode.  The  beautiful  falls  of  the 
Columbia,  called  the  Chaudieres,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Colville,  are  distant  two  days'  journey 
from  our  new  residence  of  St.  Ignatius. 

From  eight  to  nine   hundred  savages  were 


I    I 


m 


L'j  ( 


Mi 


:i 


ill: 


106 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


there  assembled  for  the  salmon  fishery.  I  re- 
paired thither  in  time  to  spend  with  them  the 
nine  days  preceding  the  feast  of  our  holy 
founder.  Within  the  last  four  years,  consider- 
able numbers  of  these  Indians  were  visited  by 
the  "  black-gowns,"  who  administered  the  sacra- 
ment of  baptism.  I  was  received  by  my  dear 
Indians  with  filial  joy  and  tenderness.  I  caused 
my  little  chapel  of  boughs  to  be  placed  on  an 
eminence  in  the  midst  of  the  Indians'  huts,  where 
it  might  not  inaptly  be  compared  to  the  pelican 
of  the  wilderness  surrounded  by  her  young, 
seeking  wdth  avidity  the  divine  word,  and  shel- 
tering themselves  under  the  protection  of  their 
fostering  mother.  I  gave  three  instructions 
daily ;  the  Indians  assisted  at  them  with  great 
assiduity  and  attention. 

Last  year,  the  feast  of  St.  Ignatius  proved 
for  me  a  day  of  danger,  trial,  and  uneasiness.  I 
love  to  recall  it  to  my  mind,  for  it  terminated 
joyfully,  and  so  gloriously,  that  I  know  my  com- 
panions can  never  forget  it,  and  they  will 
return  lasting  thanks  to  the  Almighty,  for  the 
display  of  His  mercy.  Without  a  chart  or  any 
knowledge  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  we 
traversed,  as  if  borne  on  angels'  wings,  this 
formidable  river.     This  year,  I  passed  the  feast 


OREG  ON      MISSIONS. 


107 


I  re- 
;m  the 

holy 
isider- 
ted  by 
sacra- 
^  dear 
caused 
on  an 
where 
)elican 
young, 
d  shel- 
if  their 
actions 
L  great 

proved 
ess.  I 
linated 
y  com- 
y  will 
-br  the 
or  any 
)ia,  we 
s,  this 
e  feast 


of  St.  Ignatius  amidst  many  occupations,  but 
they  were  of  such  a  nature  as  to  console  the 
missionary's  heart,  and  repay  him  a  hundred- 
fold, for  the  trifling  privations,  pains,  and  fa- 
tigues he  endures. 

More  than  one  hundred  children  were  pre- 
sented for  baptism,  and  eleven  old  men  borne 
to  me  on  skins,  seemed  only  awaiting  the  regen- 
erating waters,  to  depart  home  and  repose  in 
the  bosom  of  their  divine  Saviour.  The  eldest 
among  them,  apparently  about  one  hundred, 
and  blind,  addressed  me  in  the  following 
pathetic  words  : — My  life  has  been  long  on 
earth,  and  my  tears  have  not  ceased  to  flow ; 
even  now  I  daily  weep,  for  I  have  beheld  all  my 
children  and  early  associates  disappear.  I  find 
myself  isolated  among  my  own  nation,  as  if  I 
were  in  a  stranger  land,  thoughts  of  the  past 
alone  occupy  me,  and  they  are  of  a  mournful 
and  bitter  nature.  Sometimes  I  find  consola- 
tion in  remembering  that  I  have  avoided  the 
company  of  the  wicked.  Never  have  I  shared 
in  their  thefts,  battles  or  murders.  This  blessed 
day,  joy  has  penetrated  the  inmost  recesses  of 
my  soul ;  the  Great  Spirit  has  taken  pity  on  me, 

1,  I  return  him  thanks 


■  M 


recei 


bapti 


for  this  favor,  and  offer  him  my  heart  and  life. 


1 


108 


OREGON      MIHSIOKS, 


m 


\i 


■ 

■ 

i 
! 

'i 

1 

' 

, 

•       ! 

•         1 

^^  ^ 

A  solemn  mass  was  celebrated,  during  which 
the  Indians  chanted  canticles  in  praise  of  God. 
The  ceremonies  of  baptism  followed,  and  all 
terminated  in  the  most  perfect  order,  to  the 
great  delight  and  gratification  of  the  savages. 
It  was  indeed  a  most  imposing  spectacle,  all 
around  contributed  to  heighten  the  effect.  The 
noble,  and  gigantic  rock,  the  distant  roar  of  the 
cataracts  breaking  in  on  the  religious  silence  of 
that  solitude,  situated  on  an  eminence  overlook- 
ing the  powerful  Oregon  River,  and  on  the  spot 
where  the  impetuous  waters  freeing  themselves 
from  their  limits,  rush  in  fury,  and  dash  over  a 
pile  of  rocks,  casting  upwards  a  thousand  j6ts 
d'eau,  whose  transparent  columns  reflect,  in 
varied  colors,  the  rays  of  the  dazzling  sun. 

There  were  besides  the  Shuyelphi  or  Chau- 
diere  Indians,  the  Sinpoils  the  Zingomenes  and 
several  Kalispds,  accompanied  me  in  the 
capacity  of  singers  and  catechists. 

I  gave  the  name  of  St.  Paul  to  the  Shuyelphi 
nation,  and  placed  under  the  care  of  St.  Peter 
the  tribe  inhabiting  the  shores  of  the  great 
Columbia  lakes,  whither  Father  Hocken  is 
about  to  repair,  to  continue  instructing  and 
baptizing  their  adults.  My  presence  among  the 
Indians  did  not  interrupt  their  fine  and  abun- 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


109 


kvhich 
'  God. 
id  all 
;o   the 
vages. 
le,  all 
The 
of  the 
ince  of 
3rlook- 
le  spot 
iselves 
over  a 
nd  j6ts 
ect,  in 
in. 

Chau- 
les  and 
in    the 

kuyelphi 
it.  Peter 
great 
cken  is 
Lng  and 
long  the 
d  abun- 


dant  fishery.    An  enormous  basket  was  fastened 

to  a  projecting  rock,  and  the   finest  fish  of  the 

Columbia,  as  if  l)y  fascination,  cast  themselves 

by  dozens  into  the  snare.     Seven  or  eight  times 

during  the  day,  these  baskets  were   examined, 

and  each  time  were  found  to  contain  about  250 

salmon.    The  Indians,  meanwhile,  were  seen  on 

every  projecting  rock,  piercing  the  fish  with  the 

greatest  dexterity. 

They  who  know  not  this  territory  may  accuse 

me  of  exaggeration,  when  I  affirm,  that  it  would 

be   as  easy  to  count  the  pebbles  so    profusely 

scattered    on   the   shores,  as   to   sum  up    the 

number   of  difierent   kinds   of  fish,  which  this 

western  river  furnishes  for  man\s  support ;  as  the 

buffalo  of  the  north,  and  deer  from  north  to  east 

of  the  mountains,  furnish  daily  food  for  the  in- 

habitants   of  those   regions,   so   do   these    fish 

supply  the  wants  of  the  western  tribes.     One 

may  form  some  idea  of  the  quantity  of  salmon 

and  other  fish,  by  remarking,  that  at  the  time 

they  ascend  the  rivers,  all  the  tribes  inhabiting 

the  shores,  choose  a  favorable  location,  and  not 

only  do  they  find  abundant  nutriment  during 

the  season,  but,   if  diligent,  they  dry,  and  also 

pulverize  and  mix  with  oil  a  sufficient  quantity 

for  the  rest  of  the  year.     Incalculable  shoals  of 

0 


I' 


I' 

«» 


k 


^■'1   .s. 


r  ■ 

it   ' 

ii^......fl 

110 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


salmon  ascend  to  the  river*s  source,  and  there 
die  in  shallow  water.  Great  quantities  of  trout 
and  carp  follow  them,  and  regale  themselves  on 
the  spawn  deposited  by  the  salmon  in  holes  and 
still  water.  The  following  spring  the  young 
salmon  descend  towards  the  sea,  and  I  have 
been  told,  (I  cannot  vouch  for  the  authenticity,) 
that  they  never  return  until  the  fourth  year. 
Six  different  species  are  found  in  the  Columbia 
River. 

I  left  Chaudiere  or  Kettle  Falls,  August  4th, 
accompanied  by  several  of  the  nation  of  the 
Crees  to  examine  the  lands  they  have  selected 
for  the  site  of  a  village.  The  ground  is  rich 
and  well  suited  for  all  agricultural  purposes. 
Several  buildings  were  commenced ;  I  gave  the 
name  of  St.  Francis  Regis  to  this  new  station, 
"where  a  great  number  of  the  mixed  race  and 
beaver  hunters  have  resolved  to  settle,  with 
their  families.  The  6th  I  traversed  the  high 
mountains  of  the  Kalispels^  and  towards  evening 
reached  the  establishment  of  St.  Ignatius.  The 
Rev.  Fathers  Hocken  and  Ravalli,  with  two  lay 
brothers,  superintend  this  interesting  little  settle- 
ment. These  fathers  likewise  visit  the  different 
neighboring  tribes,  such  as  the  ZingomeneSr 
Sinpoils,  Okinaganes,  the  stations  of  St.  Francis 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Ill 


Regis,  of  St.  Peter,  and  that  of  St.  Paul,  the 
Flathows,  and  the  Koetenays,     I  purpose  visiting 
these  two  tribes,  who  have  never  j^et  had  the 
consolation    of    beholding  a    "black     gown" 
among  them.      All   these   tribes   comprehend, 
on  an  average,  about  five  hundred  souls. 
I  am,  with  profound  respect  and  esteem. 
Your  lordship's  most  obedient  servant, 
P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


^s 


high 


i 


112 


OREG  ON    MI  SSIONS, 


.■J  . 


*  I 


■i-V  ■   ! 


No.  VI. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


Stationof  the  Assumption,  Arcs-a-plats, 
August  17th,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — The  9th  of  August  I  continued 
my  route  towards  the  country  of  the  Arcs-a- 
plats,  The  roads  were  still  inundated  by  the 
great  freshet.  I  preferred  ascending  the  Clark 
or  Flathead  River,  in  my  bark  canoe,  and  sent 
my  horses  across  the  forests  bordering  the  river, 
to  await  me  at  the  great  lake  of  the  Kalispcls, 
I  had  here  a  very  agreeable  and  unexpected  in- 
terview ;  as  we  approached  the  forests,  several 
horsemen  issued  forth  in.  tattered  garments. 
The  foremost  gentleman  saluted  me  by  name, 
with  all  the  familiarity  of  an  old  acquaintance. 
I  returned  the  gracious  salutation,  desiring  to 
know  whom  I  had  the  honor  of  addressing.  A 
small  river  separated  us,  and,  with  a  smile,  he 
said,  "Wait  until  1  reach  the  opposite  shore,  and 
then   you   will   recognise   mc."     He   is   not   a 


1 


« 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


113 


beaver  hunter,  said  I  to  myself;  yet  under  this 
tattered  garb  and  slouched  hat,  I  could  not 
easily  descry  one  of  the  principal  members  of  the 
Hon.  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  the  worthy  and  respect- 
able Mr.  Ogden.  I  had  the  honor  and  good 
fortune  of  making  a  voyage  with  him,  and  in 
his  own  barge,  from  Colville  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
in  1842  ;  and  no  one  could  desire  more  agreeable 
society.  It  would  be  necessary  for  you  to  tra- 
verse the  desert,  to  feel  yourself  insulated, 
remote  from  brethren,  friends,  to  conceive  the 
consolation  and  joy  of  such  an  rencounter. 

Mr.  Ogden  left  England  in  the  month  of 
April  last,  accompanied  by  two  distinguished 
officers.  It  was  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to 
receive  recent  news  from  Europe.  The  Oregon 
cpiestion  appeared  to  me  somewhat  alarming. 
It  Avas  neither  curiosity  nor  pleasure  that  in- 
duced these  two  oflicers  to  cross  so  many  deso- 
late regions,  and  hasten  their  course  towards 
ihe  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  They  were  invest- 
ed with  orders  from  their  government  to  take 
possession  of  "Cape  Disappointment,"  to  hoist 
the  English  standard,  and  (M*ect  a  fortress  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  the  entrance  of  the 
river,  in  case  of  war.  In  the  Oregon  question, 
"  John  Bull,"  without   much   talk,   attains  his 


114 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


^Ivh 


It'-^ 


I 


I 


*    1: 


i^l' 


end,  and  secures  the  most  important  part  of  the 
country;  whereas  "Uncle  Sam,"  displodes  a 
volley  of  words,  inveighs  and  storms  !  Many 
years  have  been  passed  in  debates  and  useless 
contention,  without  one  single  practical  effort  to 
secure  his  real  or  pretended  rights.  The  poor 
Indians  of  Oregon,  who  alone  have  a  right  to 
the  country,  are  not  consulted.  Their  future 
destiny  will  be,  undoubtedly,  like  that  of  so 
many  other  unfortunate  tribes,  who,  after  hav- 
ing lived  peaceably  by  hunting  and  fishing, 
during  several  generations,  will  finally  disap- 
pear, victims  of  vice  and  malady,  under  the 
rapacious  influence  of  modern  civilization. 

The  route  from  the  great  Kalispcl  lake  to  the 
Arcs-a-plafSf  or  Flatbow  country,  is  across  dense 
forests,  and  much  obstructed  by  fallen  trees, 
morasses,  frightful  sloughs,  from  which  the  poor 
horses  with  much  difiiculty  extricate  them- 
selves ;  but,  having  finally  surmounted  all 
these  obstacles,  we  contemplate  from  an  emi- 
nence a  smiling  and  accessible  valley,  whose 
mellow  and  abundant  verdure  is  nourished  by 
two  lovely  lakes,  where  the  graceful  river  of  the 
Arcs-a-plats  or  McGilvray,  winds  in  such  fan- 
tastic beauty,  that  it  serves  to  make  the  weary 
traveller  not  only  forget  his  past  dangers,  but 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


115 


amply  compensates  him  for  the  fatigues  of  a 
long  and  tiresome  journey. 

This  section  of  the  valley  of  Arcs-a-plats 
greatly  resembles  the  two  valleys  of  the  Pointed 
Hearts;  same  fertility  of  soil,  lakes,  pastures, 
willow  and  pine  groves ;  elevated  mountains 
covered  to  the  very  summit  with  dense  forests 
of  trees,  low  lands,  in  which  the  towering  cedar 
displays  all  its  majesty  and  splendid  foliage  ; 
and,  as  Racine  says  : — 

"  Elevent  aux  cieux 
Leurs  fronts  audacieux !  " 


The  river  is,  in  this  place,  deep  and  tranquil ; 
moving  along  with  a  tardy  pace  until  aroused 
from  its  inertness  by  the  universal  thaw ;  it 
then  descends  with  such  astounding  impetuosity 
that  it  destroys  the  banks,  and  in  its  furious 
course,  uproots  and  bears  along  trees,  fragments 
of  rocks,  &c.,  which  vainly  oppose  its  passage. 
In  a  few  days  the  entire  valley  is  overflowed, 
and  it  presents  to  view  immense  lakes  and  mo- 
rasses, separated  by  borders  of  trees.  Thus 
does  the  kind  providence  of  God,  assist  his  poor 
creatures  who  inhabit  these  regions,  by  the 
liberality  ,with  which  he  ministers  to  their 
wants. 


w  ■'■■*, 


V  - 


I^Hl! 


'H 


(.     ■ 


^■<i 


I'.iS'i ,   1 


f 

1 

n 

I'l-L 

■p^ 

■  "r 

■ ,'« 

1 

r 

» ' 

;             » 

116 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


These  lakes  and  morasses,  formed  in  the 
spring,  are  filled  with  fish ;  they  remain  there 
inclosed  as  in  natural  reservoirs,  for  the  use  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  fish  swarm  in  such  abun- 
dance that  the  Indians  have  no  other  labor  than 
to  take  them  from  the  water  and  prepare  them 
for  the  boiler.  Such  an  existence  is,  however, 
precarious ;  the  savages,  who  are  not  of  a  pro- 
vident nature,  are  obliged  to  go  afterwards  in 
quest  of  roots,  grain,  berries  and  fruits  ;  such  as 
the  thorny  bush  which  bears  a  sweet,  pleasant, 
blackberry ;  the  rose-buds,  mountain  cherry, 
Cormier  or  service  berry,  various  sorts  of  goose- 
berries and  currants  of  excellent  flavor ;  rasp- 
berries, the  hawthorn  berry,  the  wappato,  (sa- 
gitta-folia,)  a  very  nourishing,  bulbous  root ;  the 
bitter  root,  whose  appellation  sufficiently  de- 
notes its  peculiar  quality,  is,  however,  very 
healthy ;  it  grows  in  light,  dry,  sandy  soil,  as 
also  the  caious  or  biscuit  root.  The  former  is 
of  a  thin  and  cylindrical  form ;  the  latter, 
though  farinaceous  and  insipid,  is  a  substitute 
for  bread ;  it  resembles  a  small  white  radish ; 
the  watery  potatoe,  oval  and  greenish,  is  pre- 
pared like  our  ordinary  potatoe,  but  f^'-eatly  in- 
ferior to  it ;  the  small  onion ;  the  sweet  onion, 
which  bears  a  lovely   flower  resembling  the 


m 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


117 


tulip.  Strawberries  are  common  and  delicious. 
To  this  catalogue  I  could  add  a  number  of  de- 
testible  fruits  and  roots  which  serve  as  nutri- 
ment for  the  Indians,  but  at  which  a  civilized 
stomach  would  revolt  and  nauseate.  I  cannot 
pass  over  in  silence  the  camash  root,  and  the 
peculiar  manner  in  which  it  is  prepared.  It  is 
abundant,  and,  I  may  say,  is  the  queen  root  of 
this  clime.  It  is  a  small,  white,  vapid  onion, 
when  removed  from  the  earth,  but  becomes 
black  and  sweet  when  prepared  for  food.  The 
women  arm  themselves  with  long,  crooked 
sticks,  to  go  in  search  of  the  camash.  After 
having  procured  a  certain  quantity  of  these 
roots,  by  dint  of  long  and  painful  labor,  they 
make  an  excavation  in  the  earth  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  inches  deep,  and  of  proportional  dia- 
meter, to  contain  the  roots.  They  cover  the 
bottom  with  closely-cemented  pavement,  which 
they  make  red  hot  by  means  of  a  fire.  After 
having  carefully  withdrawn  all  the  coals,  they 
cover  the  stones  with  grass  or  wet  hay  ;  then 
place  a  layer  of  camash,  another  of  wet  hay,  a 
third  of  bark  overlaid  with  mould,  whereon  is 
kept  a  glowing  fire  for  fifty,  sixty,  and  some- 
times seventy  hours.  The  camash  thus  ac- 
quires a  consistency  equal  to  that  of  the  jujube. 

6* 


!l    » 


H) 


i'  >  l'" 


hh'\:' 


1'  -• 


yj 


118 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


It  is  sometimes  made  into  loaves  of  various  di- 
mensions. It  is  excellent,  especially  when  boil- 
ed with  meat ;  if  kept  dry,  it  can  be  preserved  a 
long  time. 

As  soon  as  their  provisions  are  exhausted  the 
Indians  scour  the  plains,  forests,  and  mountains, 
in  quest  of  game.  If  they  are  unsuccessful  in 
the  chase,  their  hunger  becomes  so  extreme, 
that  they  are  reduced  to  subsist  on  moss,  vvhich 
is  more  abundant  than  the  camash.  It  is  a 
parasite  of  the  pine,  a  tree  common  in  these 
latitudes,  and  hangs  from  its  boughs  in  great 
quantities ;  it  appears  more  suitable  for  mat- 
tresses, than  for  the  sustenance  of  human  life. 
When  they  have  procured  a  great  quantity, 
they  pick  out  all  heterogeneous  substance,  and 
prepare  it  as  they  do  the  camash ;  it  becomes 
compact,  and  is,  in  m}^  opinion,  a  most  miserable 
food,  which,  in  a  brief  space,  reduces  those  who 
live  on  it  to  a  pitiable  state  of  emaciation. 

Such  are  the  Arcs-a-plats.  They  know 
neither  industry,  art,  nor  science  ;  the  words 
mine  and  thine  are  scarcely  known  among  them. 
They  enjoy,  in  common,  the  means  of  existence 
spontaneously  granted  them  by  Nature  ;  and  as 
they  are  strangely  improvident,  they  often  pass 
from  the  greatest  abundance  to  extreme  scarci- 


liU 


Ei  < 


^ 


li 

I'i 

r 

H^IH^ 

i'       '■■■ 

^^HHi 

■     ■  ■( 

■  ■     J  . 

( 

i^^lH 

;-■ 

tlpp 

^ 

LO 

O 


3c 


is- 

5 


X 


OREGON      MISSION 


119 


rll 


'-0 


=5 


EH 

<-, 

3D 


r-1 


ty.  They  feast  well  one  day,  and  the  follow- 
ing is  passed  in  total  abstinence.  The  two 
extremes  are  equally  pernicious.  Their  cadav- 
erous figure  sufficiently  demonstrates  what  I 
here  advance.  1  arrived  among  the  Arcs-a- 
plats  in  time  to  witness  the  grand  fi^h  festival 
which  is  yearly  celebrated  ;  the  men  only  have 
the  privilege  of  assisting  thereat.  Around  a 
fire  fifty  feet  long,  partially  overlaid  with  stones 
of  the  size  of  a  turkey's  eg^,  eighty  men  range 
themselves ;  each  man  is  provided  with  an 
osier  vessel,  cemented  with  gum  and  filled  with 
water  and  fish.  The  hall  where  this  extraordi- 
nary feast  is  celebrated  is  constructed  of  rush 
mats,  and  has  three  apertures,  one  at  either  ex- 
tremity for  the  entrance  of  guests  ;  the  middle 
one  serves  for  transporting  the  fish.  All  prepa- 
rations being  completed,  and  each  man  at  his 
post,  the  chief,  after  a  short  harangue  of  en- 
couragement to  his  people,  finishes  by  a  prayer 
of  supplication  to  the  "  Great  Spirit,"  of  whom 
he  demands  an  abundant  draught.  He  gives 
the  signal  to  commence,  and  each  one  armed 
with  two  sticks  flattened  at  the  extremity, 
makes  use  of  them  instead  of  tongs,  to  draw  the 
stones  from  the  embers,  and  put  them  in  his 
kettle.     This  process  is  twice  renewed,  and  in 


;«, 

■•'<?■ 

1 

Mi 

i' 

.''■B    'r 

f 


fi, 


;v   •. 


H 


m ; 


li  •• 


m 


!tii: 


V 


120 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


the  space  of  five  minutes  the  fish  are  cooked. 
Finally,  they  squat  around  the  fire  in  the  most 
profound  silence  to  enjoy  the  repast,  each  trem- 
bling lest  a  bone  be  disjointed  or  broken, — an 
indispensable  condition  (a  sine  quit  non)  of  a 
plentiful  fishery.  A  single  bone  broken  would  be 
regarded  as  ominous,  and  the  unlucky  culprit 
banished  the  society  of  his  comrades,  lest  his 
presence  should  entail  on  them  some  dread  evil. 

A  species  of  sturgeon  which  measures  from  six 
to  ten,  and  sometimes  twelve  feet  in  length,  is 
taken  by  the  dart  in  the  great  lake  o^Arcs-a-j)lats. 

Since  my  arrival  among  the  Indians,  the 
feast  of  the  glorious  Assumption  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  Mary  has  ever  been  to  me  a  day  of 
great  consolation.  I  had  time  to  prepare  for 
the  celebration  of  this  solemn  festival.  Thanks 
])c  to  the  instructions  and  counsels  of  a  brave 
Canadian,  Mr.  Berland,  who  for  a  long  time  has 
resided  among  them  in  the  quality  of  trader,  I 
iound  the  little  tribe  of  Arcs-a-plats  docile, 
and  in  the  best  disposition  to  embrace  the 
faith.  They  had  already  been  instructed  in 
the  principal  mysteries  of  religion.  They 
sang  canticles  in  the  French  and  Indian 
tongues.  They  number  about  ninety  families. 
I  celebrated  the  first  Mass  ever  ofl^ered  in  their 


■I 


(i  R  E  fi  ()  N       MISSIONS. 


121 


in 


land  ;  after  whicli  ten  adults  already  advanced 
in  age  and  ninety  children  received  baptism. 
The  former  were  very  attentive  to  all  my  in- 
structions. In  the  afternoon,  the  erection  of  the 
cross  was  as  solemn  as  circumstances  would  ad- 
mit. There  was  a  grand  salute  of  ninety  guns, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  lowly  standard  of  the  God- 
Saviour,  the  entire  tribe  made  a  tender  of  their 
hearts  to  Him,  with  the  promise  of  inviolable 
attachment  to  all  the  duties  of  true  chil- 
dren of  prayer,  availing  themselves  of  this 
occasion  to  renounce  the  remains  of  their  an- 
cient juggling  and  superstition.  The  cross 
was  elevated  on  the  border  of  a  lake,  and  the 
station  received  the  beautiful  name  of  the  As- 
sumption. Under  the  auspices  of  this  good 
Mother,  in  whose  honor  they  have  for  many 
years  sung  canticles,  we  hope  that  religion  will 
take  deep  root  and  flourish  amidst  this  tribe, 
w^here  union,  innocence,  and  simplicity,  reign 
in  full  vigor.  They  ardently  desire  to  be  taught 
agriculture,  the  advantages  of  which  I  have  ex- 
plained, and  promised  to  procure  the  necessary 
seed  and  implements  of  husbandry. 

I  have  tlie  honor  to  be,  monseigneur,  your 
most  humble  and  obedient  servant  in  Jesus 
Christ,  , 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


m 


122 


ORE<;ON      MISSIONS. 


1  ■•  ' 
m.  ■ ' 
IP'" 


i 


tj' 


f 


1:!'  ik 


I  :' 


No.  VII. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


Ford  of  Flat-Bow  River,  Sept.  2d,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR,  —  The  Flat-hows  and  Koetenays 
now  form  one  tribe,  divided  into  two  branches. 
They  are  known  throughout  the  country  by  the 
appellation  of  the  Skalzi. — Advancing  towards 
the  territory  of  the  Koetenays  we  were  enchant- 
ed by  the  beautiful  and  diversified  scenery.  We 
sometimes  traversed  undulatory  woods  of  pine 
and  cedar,  from  which  the  light  of  day  is  par- 
tially excluded.  We  next  entered  sombre  forests, 
where,  axe  in  hand,  we  were  forced  to  cut  our 
way  and  wind  about  to  avoid  hosts  of  trees  that 
had  been  levelled  by  the  autumnal  blasts  and 
storms.  Some  of  these  forests  are  so  dcn«?.  that, 
at  the  distance  of  twelve  feet,  I  could  not  dis- 
tinguish my  guide.  The  most  certain  way  of 
extricating  one's-self  from  these  labyrinths,  is 
to  trust  to  the  horse's  sagacity,  which,  if  left 
unguided,  will  follow  the  track  of  other  animals. 
This  expedient  has  saved  me  a  hundred  times. 


I" 


ii 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


123 


I  cannot  refrain  from  communicating  to  your 
lordship  the  gloomy  and  harrowing  thoughts 
which  imagination  conjures  up  in  these  dismal 
regions.  The  most  fearful  apprehensions  dismay 
the  bravest  heart  and  cause  an  involuntary 
shudder,  as  some  dire  apparition  of  a  bear  or 
panther  stalks  in  fancy  before  the  mind,  whilst 
groping  our  way  amidst  these  dark  and  fright- 
ful haunts,  from  which  there  is  no  egress.  We 
caught  a  transitory  glimpse  of  many  charming 
spots  covered  with  vegetation  as  we  pursued 
our  winding  path  near  the  river,  wherever  it 
deviated  from  its  natural  course.  At  a  phice 
called  the  Portage,  the  river  crosses  a  delile  of 
mountains,  or  rather  of  precipitous  and  frightful 
rocks  ;  and  the  traveller  is  compelled,  for  the 
distance  of  eight  miles,  to  risk  his  life  at  every 
step,  and  brave  obstacles  that  appear,  at  first 
sight,  insuperable. 

Whatever  can  be  imagined  appalling  seems 
here  combined  to  terrify  the  heart — livid  gashes 
of  ravines  and  precipices,  giant  peaks  and 
ridges  of  varied  hue,  inaccessible  pinnacles,  fear- 
ful and  unfathomable  chasms  filled  with  the 
sound  of  ever-pr(;cipitating  waters,  long,  sloping 
and  narrow  banks,  which  must  be  alternately 
ascended,  and  many  times  have  I  been  obliged 


Kl  I 


124 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


i  11  •• 


,1 

t 


^4 


If 


to  take  the  attitude  of  a  quadruped  and  walk 
upon  my  hands ;  often  during  this  perilous  pas- 
sage did  I  return  fervent  thanks  to  the  Almighty 
for  his  protection  from  impending  danger.  Amid 
these  stern,  heaven-built  walls  of  rocks,  the 
water  has  forced  its  way  in  varied  forms,  and 
we  find  cataracts  and  whirlpools  engulfing  crags 
and  trees,  beneath  their  angry  sway.  Whilst 
the  eye  rests  with  pleasure  on  the  rich  and 
russet  hues  of  distant  slopes,  upland  turf  and 
rock-hung  flower — the  ear  is  stunned  by  the  con- 
fused sounds  of  murmuring  rills,  rushing  streams, 
impetuous  falls,  and  roaring  torrents. 

An  extensive  plain  at  the  base  of  the  Portage 
mountain  presents  every  advantage  for  the  foun- 
dation of  a  city.  The  mountains  surrounding 
this  agreeable  site  are  majestic  and  picturesque. 
They  forcibly  recalled  to  my  memory  the  noble 
Mapocho  Mountains  that  encompass  the  beauti- 
ful capital  of  Chili  (Santiago).  Innumerable 
little  rills,  oozing  from  the  mountain's  stony  bo- 
som, difl'use  a  transparent  haze  over  the  valleys 
and  lower  slopes.  The  fine  river  Des  Chutes 
comes  roaring  down  and  crosses  the  plain  before 
it  joins  its  waters  to  the  McGilvray,  which 
traiuiuilly  pursues  its  course.  The  quarries  and 
forests  appear  inexhaustible  ;  and  having  re- 


III 


OUEGON       MISSIONS. 


125 


marked  large  pieces  of  coal  along  the  river,  I  am 
convinced  that  this  fossil  could  be  abundantly 
procured.  What  would  this  now  solitary  and 
desolate  land  become,  under  the  fostering  hand 
of  civilization  ?  Indeed,  the  entire  tract  of  the 
Skalzi  seems  awaiting  the  benign  influence  of 
a  civilized  people.  Great  quantities  of  lead  are 
found  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  ;  and  from  the 
appearance  of  its  superior  quality,  we  are  led 
to  believe  there  mav  be  some  mixture  of  silver. 
Poor,  unfortunate  Indians  !  they  trample  on 
treasures,  unconscious  of  their  worth,  and  con- 
tent themselves  with  the  fishery  and  chase. 
When  these  resources  fail,  they  subsist  uprn 
roots  and  herbs  ;  whilst  they  eye,  with  tranquil 
surprise,  the  white  man  examining  the  shining 
pebbles  of  their  territory.  Ah!  they  would 
tremble,  indeed,  could  they  learn  the  history  of 
those  numerous  and  ill-fated  tribes  that  have 
been  swept  from  their  land,  to  make  place  for 
Christians  who  have  made  the  poor  Indians 
the  victims  of  their  rapacity.  After  a  few  days' 
journey  we  arrived  at  the  Prairie  du  Tabac, 
the  usual  abode  of  the  Kortcnatjs.  Their  camp 
is  situ.ated  in  an  immense  and  delightful  valley, 
bounded  by  two  eminences,  which,  from  their 
gentle  and     regular    declivity,    covered    with 


126 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


;;^'  • 


.1  •■ 


l'^- 


smooth    pebbles,   appear    to    have     originally 
bounded  an  extensive  lake. 

On  my  arrival,  I  found  about  thirty  lodges  of 
Koetenays ;  hunger  had  forced  many  families 
to  cross  the  great  mountain.  They  came  in 
quest  of  the  buffalo,  elk,  antelope,  and  stag.  I 
was  received  with  every  demonstration  of  joy 
and  filial  affection  by  those  who  remained  in  the 
lodges.  They  hailed  me  with  a  long  and  boister- 
ous discharge  of  musketry.  Several  showed  me 
their  journal,  consisting  of  a  square  stick  on 
which  they  had  notched  the  number  of  days  and 
weeks  elapsed  since  I  abode  with  them  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  great  lake  Teteplatte. 
They  had  computed  forty-one  months  and  some 
days. 

Mr.  Berland  had  exerted  his  zeal  to  maintain 
the  Koetenays  and  their  brethren  in  the  good  dis- 
positions in  which  I  had  the  consolation  of  find- 
ing them.  Since  my  last  visit  they  have  fol- 
lowed, to  the  very  letter,  all  they  remembered  of 
my  recommendations.  I  was  obliged  to  decide 
some  controversial  points,  which  they  had  mis- 
interpreted or  misapprehended.  They  habitually 
assembled  for  morning  and  evening  prayer,  con- 
tinued the  practice  of  singing  canticles,  and 
faithfully  observed  the  Sabbath  precept. 


A-  1 


!! 


^. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


127 


On  the  feast  of  the  Holy  Heart  of  Mary  I  sanjj^ 
High  Mass,  thus  taking  spiritual  possession  of 
this  land,  which  was  now  for  the  first  time  trod- 
den by  a  minister  of  the  Most  High.  I  adminis- 
tered the  Sacrament  of  Baptism  to  one  hundred 
and  five  persons,  among  whom  were  twenty 
adults.  An  imposing  ceremony  terminated  the 
exercises  of  the  day.  Amidst  a  general  salute 
from  the  camp,  a  large  cross  was  elevated.  The 
chiefs,  at  the  head  of  their  tribe,  advanced  and 
prostrated  themselves  before  that  sacred  ensign, 
which  speaks  so  eloquently  of  the  love  of  a  Man- 
God,  who  came  to  redeem  a  fallen  race.  At  the 
foot  of  that  sacred  emblem,  they  loudly  offered 
their  hearts  to  him  who  has  declared  himself 
our  Master,  and  the  Divine  Pastor  of  souls. 
This  station  bears  the  name  of  the  Holy  Heart 
of  Mary.  One  of  our  Fathers  will  soon  visit  the 
two  branches  of  this  tribe. 

Though  these  poor  people  were  much  in  want 
of  food,  they  pressed  me  to  remain  some  days 
amongst  them,  whilst  they  listened  with  avidity 
to  my  instructions  relative  to  their  future  con- 
duct. After  my  departure  they  divided  into 
small  bands  to  go  in  search  of  provisions  among 
the  defiles  of  the  mountains. 

The  30th  August  I  bade  adieu  to  the  Kocie- 


■A 


\k 


■    i 


'  •  •. 


m. 


i 


128 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


nai/s.  Two  young  men  of  their  tribe  offered  to 
conduct  me  to  the  country  of  the  Black-feety  and 
a  third  Indian,  an  expert  hunter  and  good  inter- 
preter, completed  the  number  of  my  little  escort. 
I  then  journeyed  on  towards  the  sources  of  the 
Columbia. — The  country  we  traversed  was  high- 
ly picturesque  and  agreeably  diversified  by 
beautiful  prairies,  from  which  poured  forth  spicy 
odors  of  fljwcr,  and  shrub,  and  fresh  spirit-elat- 
ing breezes,  smiling  valleys  and  lakes,  surround- 
ed by.  hoary  and  solemn  pines,  gracefully  wav- 
ing their  flexible  branches.  We  also  crossed 
magnificent  dark  Alpine  forests,  where  the  sound 
of  the  axe  has  never  resounded ;  they  are  wa- 
tered by  streams  which  impetuously  rush  over 
savage  crags  and  precipices  from  the  range  of 
mountains  on  the  right.  This  stupendous  chain 
appears  like  some  impregnable  barrier  of  colos- 
sal firmness. 

I  am,  with  every  sentiment  of  the  most  pro- 
found respect,  your  lordship's  humble  and  obedi- 
ent servant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


w  ■ 


fl:      i 


i 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


129 


No.  VIII. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


Head  of  the  Columbia, 

September  9th,  1845. 

All  hail  !  Majestic  Rock — the  home, 
Where  many  a  wand'rer  yet  shall  come, 
Where  God  himself  from  his  own  heart. 
Shall  health,  and  peace,  and  joy  impart. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — The  4th  September,  towards 
noon,  I  found  myself  at  the  source  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. I  contemplated  with  admiration  those 
rugged  and  gigantic  mountains  where  the  Great 
River  escapes — majestic,  but  impetuous  even  at 
its  source  ;  and  in  its  vagrant  course  it  is  un- 
doubtedly the  most  dangerous  river  on  the  wes- 
tern side  of  the  American  hemisphere.  Two 
small  lakes  from  four  to  six  miles  in  length, 
formed  by  a  number  of  springs  and  streams,  are 
the  reservoirs  of  its  first  waters. 

I  pitched  my  tent  on  the  banks  of  the  first 
fork  that  brings  in  its  feeble  tribute,  and  which 
we  behold  rushing  with  impetuosity  over  the 
inaccessible  rocks  that  present  themselves  on 


i        * 


t       "^ 


!!: 


?s;  ■ 


P 


,?.*' 

i;' 


if! 


130 


OREG  ON       MISSIONS. 


the  right.  What  sublime  rocks  !  How  varied 
in  shape  and  figure  !  The  fantastic  in  every 
form,  the  attractive,  the  ludicrous,  and  the 
sublime,  present  themselves  simultaneously  to 
the  view  ;  and  by  borrowing  ever  so  little  the 
aid  of  the  imagination,  we  behold  rising  before 
our  astonished  eyes,  castles  of  by-gone  chivalry, 
with  their  many-embattled  towers — fortresses, 
surrounded  by  their  walls  and  bulwarks — 
palaces  with  their  domes — and,  in  fine,  cathe- 
drals with  their  lofty  spires. 

On  arriving  at  the  two  lakes,  I  saw  them  cov- 
ered with  swarms  of  aquatic  birds — coots,  ducks, 
water-fowl,  cormorants,  bustards,  cranes,  and 
swans ;  whilst  beneath  the  tranquil  water  lay 
shoals  of  salmon  in  a  state  of  exhaustion.  At 
the  entrance  of  the  second  lake,  in  a  rather 
shallow  and  narrow  place,  I  saw  them  pass  in 
great  numbers,  cut  and  mutilated,  after  their 
long  watery  pilgrimage  among  the  rapids, 
cataracts,  valleys,  and  falls  ;  they  continue  this 
uninterrupted  procession  during  weeks  and 
months. 

Perhaps  I  shall  scarcely  be  believed  when  I 
affirm  that  the  salmon  fish  are  quarrelsome.  I 
witnessed  with  surprise  the  sharp  and  vengeful 
bites  they  mutually  inflicted.    These  two  lakes 


\ 


*J  • 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


131 


varied 
every 
id  the 
Lisly  to 
tie  the 
before 
ivalry, 
resses, 
arks — 
cathe- 

m  cov- 
,  ducks, 
3S,  and 
ter  lay 
>n.  At 
rather 
3ass  in 
r  their 
rapids, 
le  this 
s    and 

vhen  I 
me.  I 
jngeful 
»  lakes 


form  an  immense  tomb,  for  they  there  die  in 
such  numbers  as  frequently  to  infect  the  whole 
surrounding  atmosphere. 

In  the  absence  of  man,  the  grey  and  black 
bear,  the  wolf,  the  eagle,  and  vulture  assemble 
in  crowds,  at  this  season  of  the  year.  They  fish 
their  prey  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  at  the 
entrance  of  the  lakes  ; — claws,  teeth  and  bills 
serving  them  instead  of  hooks  and  darts.  From 
thence,  when  the  snow  begins  to  fall,  the  bears, 
plump  and  fat,  resume  the  road  back  to  their 
dens  in  the  thick  of  the  forests,  and  hollows  of 
rocks,  there  to  pass  the  four  sad  wintry  months 
in  complete  indolence,  with  no  other  pastime  or 
occupation,  than  that  of  sucking  their  four 
paws. 

If  we  may  credit  the  Indians,  each  paw  oc- 
cupies the  bear  for  one  moon,  (a  months)  and  the 
task  accomplished,  he  turns  on  the  other  side, 
and  begins  to  suck  the  second,  and  so  on  with 
the  rest. 

I  will  here  mention,  en  passant,  all  the  hunters 
and  Indians  remark  that  it  is  a  very  uncommon 
incident  for  a  female  bear  to  be  killed  when 
with  young,  and,  notwithstanding,  they  are 
killed  in  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Where  they 
go — what  becomes  of  them  during  the  period 


'■?  ■  f 

i 


li-i  --}^.-  1 
m  '  ■;  ■'  .; 


132 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


ft.  I 

Is     " 


they  carry  their  young — is  a  problem  yet  to  be 
solved  by  our  mountain  hunters. 

When  emigration,  accompanied  by  industry, 
the  arts  and  sciences,  shall  have  penetrated  into 
the  numberless  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
the  source  of  the  Columbia  vs^ill  prove  a  very  im- 
portant point.  The  climate  is  delightful ;  the 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are  seldom  knov^^n. 
The  snow  disappears  as  fast  as  it  falls ;  the 
laborious  hand  that  would  till  these  valleys, 
would  be  repaid  a  hundred  fold.  Innumerable 
herds  could  graze  throughout  the  year  in  these 
meadows,  where  the  sources  and  streams  nur- 
ture a  perpetual  freshness  and  abundance.  The 
hillocks  and  declivities  of  the  mountains  are 
generally  studded  with  inexhaustible  forests,  in 
which  the  larch  tr^^e,  pine  of  different  species, 
cedar  and  cypress  abound. 

In  the  plain  betwaen  the  two  lakes,  are  beau- 
tiful bprings,  whose  waters  have  re-united  and 
formed  a  massive  rock  of  soft  sandy  stone,  which 
has  the  appearance  of  an  immense  congealed  or 
petrified  cascade.  Their  waters  are  soft  and 
pellucid ;  and  of  the  same  temperature  as  the 
milk  just  drawn  from  the  cow.  The  description 
given  by  Chandler  of  the  famous  fountain  of 
Pambouk  Kalesi,  on  the  ancient  Hieropolis  of 


; 


M  \ 


111 


(i 
it 

f 


ll'  » 


I    ii 


OREGON     MISSIO  NS. 


133 


t  to  be 

idustry, 
;ed  into 
intains, 
ery  im- 
iil ;  the 
known. 
Is ;  the 
valleys, 
nerable 
n  these 
US  nur- 
;e.  The 
ns  are 
■ests,  in 
species, 

e  beau- 
ted  and 
;,  which 
;aled  or 
oft  and 
as  the 
cription 
itain  of 
polls  of 


Asia  Minor,  in  the  valley  of  Meander,  and  of 
which  Malte  Brun  makes  mention,  might  be 
literally  applied  to  the  warm  springs  at  the 
source  of  the  Columbia.  The  prospect  unfolded 
to  our  view  was  so  wonderful,  that  an  attempt 
to  give  even  a  faint  idea  of  it,  would  savor  of 
romance,  without  going  beyond  the  limits  of 
fact. 

We  contemplated  with  an  admiring  gaze,  this 
vast  slope,  which,  from  a  distance,  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  chalk,  and  when  nearer,  extends 
like  an  immense  concreted  cascade,  its  undulat- 
ing surface  resembling  a  body  of  water  sud- 
denly checked  or   indurated  in  its  rapid  course. 

The  first  lake  of  the  Columbia  is  two  miles 
and  a  half  distant  from  the  River  des  Arcs-a- 
plats,  and  receives  a  portion  of  its  waters  during 
the  great  spring  freshet.  They  are  separated 
by  a  bottom  land.  The  advantages  Nature  seems 
to  have  bestowed  on  the  source  of  the  Columbia, 
will  render  its  geographical  position  very  im- 
portant at  some  future  day.  The  magic  hand 
of  civilized  man  would  transform  it  into  a  ter- 
restial  paradise. 

The  Canadian  !     Into  what  part  of  the  desert 

has  he  not  penetrated  ?  The  monarch  who  rules 

at  the  source  of  the  Columbia  is  an  honest  emi« 

7 


•     ..  «! 


«;»  ' 


m- 


k  ■  ii- 


M 


134 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


grant  from  St.  Martin,  in  the  district  of  Mon- 
treal, who  has  resided  for  twenty-six  years  in 
this  dqsert.  The  skins  of  the  rein  and  moose 
deer  are  the  njaterials  of  which  his  portable 
palace  is  composed  ;  and  to  use  his  own  expres- 
sions, he  EMBARKS  on  horseback  with  his  wife 
and  seven  children,  and  lands  wherever  he 
pleases.  Here,  no  one  disputes  his  right,  and 
Polk  and  Peel,  who  are  now  contending  for  the 
possession  of  his  dominions,  are  as  unknown  to 
our  carbineer,  as  the  two  greatest  powers  of  the 
moon.  His  sceptre  is  a  beaver  trap — his  law 
SL  carbine — the  one  on  his  back,  the  other  on 
his  'arm,  he  reviews  his  numerous  furry  subjects 
the  beaver,  otter,  muskrat,  marten,  fox,  bear, 
wolf,  sheep,  and  white  goat  of  the  mountains, 
the  black-tailed  roe-buck,  as  well  as  its  red- 
tailed  relative,  the  stag, the  rein  and  moose  deer; 
some  of  which  respect  his  sceptre — others  submit 
to  his  law.  He  exacts  and  receives  from  them 
the  tribute  of  flesh  and  skins.  Encircled  by  so 
much  grandeur,  undisturbed  proprietor  of  all 
the  sky-ward  palaces,  the  strong  holds,  the  very 
last  refuge  which  Nature  has  reared  to  preserve 
alive  liberty  in  the  earth — solitary  lord  of  these 
majestic  mountains,  that  elevate  their  icy  sum- 
mits even   to  the  clouds, — Morigeau  (our  Can- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


135 


adian)  does  not  forget  his  duty  as  a  Christian. 
Each  day,  morning  and  evening,  he  may  be  seen 
devoutly  reciting  his  prayers,  midst  his  little 
family. 

Many  years  had  Morigeau  ardently  desired 
to  see  a  priest ;  and  when  he  learned  that  I  was 
about  to  visit  the  source  of  the  Columbia,  he 
repaired  thither  in  all  haste  to  procure  for  his 
wife  and  children  the  signal  grace  of  baptism. 
The  feast  of  the  Nativity  of  the  Blessed  Virgin, 
this  favor  was  conferred  on  them,  and  also  on 
the  children  of  three  Indian  families,  who  ac- 
company him  in  his  migrations.  This  was  a 
solemn  day  for  the  desert !  The  august  sacrifice 
of  Mass  was  offered ;  Morigeau  devoutly  ap- 
proached the  Holy  Table  ; — at  the  foot  of  the 
humble  altar  he  received  the  nuptial  benedic- 
tion ;  and  the  mother,  surrounded  by  her  chil- 
dren and  six  little  Indians,  was  regenerated  in 
the  holy  waters  of  baptism.  In  memory  of  so 
many  benefits,  a  large  cross  was  erected  in  the 
plain,  which,  from  that  time,  is  called  the  Plain 
of  the  Nativity. 

I  cannot  leave  my  good  Canadian  without 
making  an  honorable  mention  of  his  royal 
CUISINE  A  LA  SAUVAGE.  The  first  dish  he  presented 
me  contained  two  paws  of  a  bear.    In  Africa, 


m 


-    ■*« 

0 


■■  .4 
/i    ■ 

■fry 
'■■»,'. 


,11 


I 


136 


OREGON      MIS  SIONS. 


this  ragout  might  have  given  some  alarm ;  in 
effect,  it  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  feet 
of  a  certain  race.  A  roast  porcupine  next  made 
its  appearance,  accompanied  by  a  moose's 
muzzle  ;  the  latter  I  found  delicious.  Finally, 
the  great  kettle  containing  a  sort  of  hotch-potch, 
or  salmagundi,  was  placed  in  the  midst  of  the 
guests,  and  each  one  helped  himself  according 
to  his  taste. 

Some  remains  of  beef,  buffalo,  venison,  bea- 
vers' tails,  hare,  partridges,  &c.,  made  an  agree- 
able, substantial,  famous  soup. 

I  am,  monseigneur,  your  most  humble  and 
obedient  i^ervant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


:;^f_ 


I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


137 


rm;  m 
he  feet 
t  made 
noose's 
inally, 
■potch, 
;  of  the 
cording 

m,  bea- 
agree- 

ile  and 

S.J. 


No.  IX. 
A.  M.  D.  G. 


Foot  of  the  Cross  of  Peace, 

September  15th,  1845. 


-Hero 


Poplars  and  birch  trees  ever  quivering  played, 
And  nodding  cedars  formed  a  vagrant  shade  ; 
On  whose  high  branches,  waving  with  the  storm. 
The  birds  of  broadest  wings  their  mansion  form  ; 
The  jay,  the  magpie,  the  loquacious  crow. 
And  soar  alofl  and  skim  the  deeps  below. 
Here  limpid  fountains  from  the  clefts  distil, 
And  every  fountain  forms  a  noisy  rill. 
In  mazy  windings  wandering  down  the  hill." 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — We  bade  adieu  to  the  Morigeau 
family  on  the  9th,  and  to  their  companions 
of  the  chase,  the  Siotishwaps,  We  quitted 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Columbia  by  a  small 
footpath,  which  soon  conducted  us  to  a  narrow 
mountain  defile,  where  the  light  of  day  vanished 
from  view,  amidst  the  huge,  bold  barriers  of 
colossal  rocks.  The  grand,  the  sublime,  the 
beautiful,  here  form  the  most  singular  and   fan- 


138 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


IP  '^■- 
J     .^ 

I       . 

\  -' 
.  .      t 


r .  ^ 


hi.  •. 


I      1. 


tastic   combinations.     Though  gray  is  the  pre- 
vailing color,  we  find  an  immense  rock  of  porphy- 
ry, or  white-veined    granite.     Here  and  there, 
from  the  fissures  of  the  rock,  or  wherever  there 
is  a  handful   of  dust,  the  heavy  and  immortal 
pine  enroots  itself,  adding  its  gloomy  verdure  to 
the  variegated  hues  of  the  torpid  rocks.     These 
circuitous  paths  often  present  the  most  ravish- 
ing and  picturesque  vistas ;  surrounded  by  colos- 
sal walls,  the  greatest  diversity  and  most  beau- 
tiful scenery  in   nature    is  spread    out  before 
the  eye,  where  the  plush  and  cedar  rise  majesti- 
cally in  these  venerable  woods,  the  graceful 
poplar    waves  on  high  its  emerald  plumes,  and 
fights  its  battles  with  the  howling  storm,  whilst 
over    the   precipitous  and   jagged     rocks,    the 
scarcely- waving  pine  fills  the  brown  shade  with 
religious  awe.    The  birch  springs  from  an  earth 
carpetted  with  moss,  and  shines  like  magnificent 
silver  columns,  supporting  diadems  of  golden 
autumnal  leaves,  amidst   the   redolent  purple- 
berried  juniper  and  azure  turpentines,  of  these 
humid  dells  and  forests. 

After  a  day's  journey  through  these  primeval 
scenes,  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  river  Arcs- 
fi-plats,  where  innumerable  torrents  rush  head- 
long, with  a  thousand  mazes  from  the  moun- 


m    t 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


139 


le  pre- 
orphy- 

there, 
'  there 
mortal 
lure  to 

These 
•avish- 
T  colos- 

beau- 

before 
lajesti- 
raccful 
BS,  and 

whilst 
vs,  the 
le  with 
n  earth 
lificent 
golden 
purple- 
f  these 

imeval 
r  Arcs- 
li  head- 
moun- 


tain's brow,  and  in  their  union  form  this  noble 
river.     From   afar  is  heard  the  deafening  and 
continuous  sound  of  its  own  dashes,  as  it  tra- 
verses a  rocky  bed  with  extraordinary  rapidity. 
We  crossed  the  river  in  order  to  attempt  the 
passage   of  another  defile,  still  more  wonderful, 
where  the  waters  of  the  Vermillion  have  forced 
an  opening.     Here,  everything  strikes  the  eye  ; 
all  is   wild  sublimity,  in  this  profound  but  tur- 
bulent solitude.     Projecting  mountains  rise  like 
holy  towers  where  man  might  commune  with 
the  sky; — terrible  precipices  hang  in  fragments 
overhead — the  astounding  noise  of  the    deep- 
tongued  waves,  in  their  unconfined  flow,  resem- 
bles that  of  the  angry  tempest,  sweeping  wild  and 
free,  like  the  spirit  of  liberty.     Now  the  break- 
ing waves  play  low  upon  the  rock-ribbed  beach, 
and  madly  plunge  into  an  abyss — anon   it  re- 
turns foaming  to     its    sedgy    bed,    apparently 
sporting  with  the  sedges  for  diversion — falling 
from  slope  to  slope,  from  cascade  to  cascade, 
passing  in  its  course  a  long  train  of  rapids — 
now  concealing  itself  under  the  tufted  foliage  of 
cedar  and  pine — again  pouring  its  brilliant  and 
crystalline  waters  into  a  capacious  basin,  as  if  to 
take  breath  before    quitting    the    ravine,    and 


B  '<.' 


liMr 


' .  \ 


140 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


i-f 


:i::a 


i  « 


Rl 


finally  precipitating  its  wandering  course  with 
renovated  vigor. 

From  this  almost  impenetrable  forest  issues  a 
harmonious  sound.  'T  is  the  whistling  or  lowing 
of  the  noble  stag,  calling  its  companion.  The 
moose,  the  most  vigilant  of  animals,  gives  the 
signal  of  alarm.  He  has  heard  the  cracking 
branch — he  has  inhaled  the  hunter's  deadly- 
breath  ;  a  confused  noise  is  heard  from  the 
mountain ;  the  sportsman  raises  his  eager  eye 
to  its  summit,  and  scans  a  flock  of  rein-deer 
perched  upon  the  snow  ;  they  are  started  at  the 
approach  of  man ;  in  a  instant  they  are  lost 
among  the  inaccessible  pinnacles,  the 

"  Palaces  where  Nature  thrones 
Sublimity  in  icy  halls." 

We  often  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  graceful  forms 
and  nimble  feats  of  the  roe-bucks,  as  they  caper 
and  gallop,  or  tarry  an  instant  to  look  around, 
with  their  lancet  ears  distended  to  catch  every 
sound ;  these  wild,  forest  stragglers  resume 
their  course,  and  finally  penetrate  into  the 
sombre  forest.  Flocks  of  wild  goats  gambol 
carelessly  and  tranquilly  beside  herds  of  moun- 
tain sheep  above  overhanging  precipices  and 
peaked  rocks,  chequered  by  patches  of  snow, 
far  beyond  the  reach  of  human  footsteps. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


141 


A  monstrous  animal,  the  grey  bear,  which 
replaces  on  our  mountains  the  African  lion,  is 
not  content  with  growling  and  menacing  the 
intrepid  venturer,  who  dares  infringe  on  his 
cavernous  dominions,  but  grinds  his  teeth,  ex- 
pressive of  his  rage.  Suddenly,  a  well-aimed 
gun-shot  forces  him  to  make  a  lowly  reference  ; 
the  formidable  beast  rolls  in  the  dust,  biting  the 
sand  saturated  with  his  blood,  and  expires. 

The  ordinary  music  of  the  desert  is,  the  shrill 
cry  of  the  panther,  and  the  howling  of  the  wolf. 
The  diminutive  mountain  hare,  six  inches  high, 
and  whose  biography  has  not  yet  found  a  place 
in  natural  history,  amuses  itseU'  amidst  the 
stony  rubbish,  and  exhibits  wonderful  ac- 
tivity; whilst  his  neighbor,  the  lubberly  por- 
cupine, clambers  up,  seats  himself  upon  a 
branching  cypress  and  gnaws  the  bark.  He 
views  the  eager  huntsman  with  a  careless  and 
indifferent  air,  unconscious  that  his  tender  flesh 
is  regarded  as  a  most  delicious  morsel.  The  in- 
dustrious beaver,  like  a  wary  sentinel,  warns  his 
family  of  man's  approach  by  striking  the  water 
with  his  tail.  The  muskrat,  or  musquash,  plunges 
immediately  into  the  water.  The  otter  quits 
his  sports  and  slides  upon  his  belly  among  the 

reeds — the  timid  squirrel  leaps  from  bough  to 

7* 


■ji'   ■  I 


,  .  ,,.^ 

4 

J 

l.l 

1 

1 

a; 

J 

142 


UREGON       MI8S10NS. 


bough,  until  it  reaches  the  topmost  shade  of  the 
cypress  ;  the  marten  jumps  from  tree  to  tree,  and 
buries  itself  in  the  foliage — the  whistler  and 
weasel  repair  to  their  respective  domicils : — 
a  precipitous  flight  alone  saves  the  fox  his  rich 
silvery  pelisse — the  badger,  or  the  ground-hog, 
too  remote  from  his  dwelling,  digs  the  sandy 
soil,  and  buries  himself  alive,  to  avoid  pursuit — 
his  magnificent  skin  is  destined  to  adorn  the  loins 
of  an  Indian — it  requires  the  joint  efforts  of  two 
men  to  force  him  from  his  hiding  place,  and  to 
kill  him. 

The  evening  previous  to  our  egression  from 
the  blind  mazes  of  this  tangled  wood,  our  eyes 
were  recreated  by  a  ravishing  scene.  When  it 
presents  itself  after  a  disastrous  combat,  the 
spectacle  consoles  the  afflicted  heart  of  the  sa- 
vage warrior.  From  the  mountain's  top  we 
cdntemplated  the  "dance  of  the  manitous  or 
spirits,  and  the  glorious  entrance  of  departed 
champions  into  the  country  of  souls."  Vast 
columns  of  light  varying  in  splendor,  appeared 
to  divert  and  balance  themselves  in  the  heavens: 
— some  of  perpendicular  form ;  others  resem- 
bling undultatory  waves  ;  now  concealing,  now 
exhibiting  themselves  under  diversified  aspects 
until  the  entire  hemisphere  seemed  brilliantly 


OREGON        MISSIONS. 


143 


)i 


illuminated.  All  these  masses  united  at  the 
zenith,  and  then  separated  under  a  variety  of 
forms. 

Mysterious,  solemn,  cold  and  clear, 

Their  steps  majestic  rise, 
Like  barriers  round  this  earthly  sphere, 

Like  gates  of  Paradise. 
Well  may  imaginatic  it 

Before  your  sacred  blaze, 
And  bafHed  science  fail  to  paint 

The  source  of  heaven-lit  rays. 

The  aurora  borealis,  is  a  phenomenon  which 
I  always  contemplate  with  mingled  admiration 
and  pleasure.  All  that  is  seen,  all  that  is  heard 
in  this  unfathomable  solitude,  is  both  agreeable 
and  instructive.  It  strikes,  captivates,  and  ele- 
vates the  mind  towards  the  Author  of  nature. 
Mirahilia  opera  Domini  ! 

After  much  fatigue,  labor,  and  admiration,  on 
the  15th  we  traversed  the  high  lands  separating 
the  waters  of  Oregon  from  those  of  the  south 
branch  of  the  Sascatshawin,  or  the  ancient 
Bourbon  river,  so  called  before  the  Canadian 
conquest  by  the  British.  It  is  the  largest  tribu- 
tary of  the  Winnepeg,  which  flows  into  Hudson's 
Bay  by  the  River  Nelson,  58  deg.  north  lati- 
tude. 


144 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


^i^^ 


!   I 


&~ 


^':  t-  ■ 


hi  ' 


The  Christian's  standard,  the  crosSf  has  been 
reared  at  the  source  of  these  two  rivers :  may  it 
be  a  sign  of  salvation  and  peace  to  all  the  scat- 
tered and  itinerant  tribes  east  and  west  of  these 
gigantic  and  lurid  mountains. 

On  the  cypress  which  serves  for  constructing 
the  cross,  the  eagle,  emblem  of  the  Indian 
warrior,  perches  himself.  The  huntsman  aims 
— the  noble  bird  lies  prostrate,  and  even  in  his 
fall,  seems  to  retain  his  kingly  pride.  It  so  for- 
cibly recalls  to  memory  the  beautiful  lines  of 
the  illustrious  Campbell,  that  I  quote  them  in 
full:— 

Fallen  as  he  is,  the  king  of  birds  still  seems 
Like  royalty  in  ruins.     Though  his  eyes 
Are  shut,  that  looked  undazzled  on  the  sun, 
He  was  the  sultan  of  the  sky,  and  earth 
Paid  tribute  to  his  eyrie.     It  was  perched 
Higher  than  human  conqueror  ever  built 
His  bannered  fort.    *        *        *        * 

*        *    He  cloved  the  adverse  storm 
And  cufTed  it  with  his  wings.    He  stopped  his  flight 
As  easily  as  the  Arab  reins  his  steed. 
And  stood  at  pleasure  'neath  heaven's  zenith,  like 
A  lamp  suspended  from  its  azure  dome  ; 
Whilst  underneath  him  the  world's  mountains  lay 
Like  mole-hills,  and  her  streams  like  lucid  threads. 

We  breakfasted  on  the  bank  of  a  limpid  lake 
at  the  base  of  the  "  Cross  of  Peace,"  from  whence 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


145 


3een 
ay  it 
jcat- 
bese 

ting 
dian 
lims 
his 
for- 
s  of 
a  in 


1  have  the  honor  of  dating  my  letter,  and  of 
giving  you  the  renewed  assurance  of  my  pro- 
found respect  and  veneration ;  recommending 
to  your  fervent  prayers,  in  a  special  manner,  this 
vast  desert,  which  contains  so  many  precious 
souls  still  buried  in  the  shades  of  death. 

Monseigneur,  your  very  humble  and  devoted 

servant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


lake 
mce 


i'^ 


t<, 


\\  » 


\'    !  )• 


146 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


No.  X. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


m 


-1  -. 


,!*    ■■ 


Camp  of  theAssiniboins,  Sept.  26th,  1845. 

"  Here  bloomy  meads  with  vivid  greens  are  crown'd, 
And  glowing  violets  throw  sweet  odors  round." 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — By  a  steep  declivity  we  entered 
a  rich  valley,  agreeably  diversified  by  enamelled 
meads,  magnificent  forests,  and  lakes — in  wrhich 
the  salmon-trout  so  abound,  that  in  a  few 
minutes  we  procured  sufficient  for  an  excellent 
repast.  The  valley  is  bounded  on  either  side  by 
a  succession  of  picturesque  rocks,  whose  lofl:y 
summits,  rising  in  the  form  of  pyramids,  lose 
themselves  in  the  clouds.  The  far-famed  Egyp- 
tian monuments  of  Cheops  and  Cephren  dwindle 
into  nought,  before  this  gigantic  architectural 
cliflf  of  nature.  The  natural  pyramids  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  seem  to  deride  the  artificial 
skill  of  man ;  they  serve  as  a  resting  place  for 
the  clouds  that  come  hither  to  seek  repose,  and 
to  encircle  their  giant  brows.    The  Lord's  omni« 


-i" 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


147 


: 


45. 


ered 
aied 
hich 
few 
[lent 
eby 
ofty 
lose 

?yp- 

tidle 
ural 

the 
cial 

for 
and 
fini- 


potent  hand  has  laid  the  foundations — he  has 
permitted  the  elements  to  form  them,  and  in 
every  age  they  proclaim  His  power  and  glory  ! 

We  emerged  from  this  delightful  valley,  on 
the  18th  of  September,  after  a  three  days*  ex- 
cursion, and  recommenced  our  mountainous 
peregrination,  which  presented  nothing  but  ob- 
stacles and  contusions,  both  to  men  and  horses. 
For  the  space  of  six  hours  we  were  compelled 
to  trace  our  route  across  fragments  of  broken 
rocks,  through  an  extensive  and  parched  forest, 
and  where  millions  of  half-consumed  trees  lay 
extended  in  every  direction.  Not  a  trace  of 
vegetation  remained,  and  never  had  I  contem- 
plated so  dismal  and  destructive  a  conflagra- 
tion ! 

We  reached  the  River  des  Arcs  or  Askow,  in 
the  evening,  and  pitched  our  solitary  tent  upon 
the  shore.  Here  we  discovered  some  vestiges 
of  a  savage  party.  Five  days  previous,  nine 
lodges  of  Indians  had  encamped  upon  the  very 
spot.  We  made  a  careful  search,  and  my 
guides  imagined  they  were  the  formidable 
Black-feet !  We,  the  same  day,  saw  two  smokes 
at  the  extremity  of  the  plain  over  which 
these  barbarians  had  travelled.  My  companions 
seemed  to  hesitate,  as  we  drew  near  the  vicinity 


148 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Vi.    1-'' 

In  ■' 


hi 


W' -  ■ 

m  f ''.i'' 

1  r^-'-';'  ■ 

1  Wi 

I'i' ' 

1  ^'S  :• 

I  •  ■-■• 

p.     ', 
if    '^' 

|i  ■ -'v 


El.         .L 

h 


of  these  fearful  Black-feet.  They  recounted  to 
me  their  inauspicious  dreams,  and  wished  to 
deter  me  from  proceeding.  One  said  :  **/  saw 
myself  devoured  by  a  wild  bear  ; "  another,  "/ 
saw  ravens  and  vultures,  (ill-omened  birds,) 
hovering  over  the  head  of  our  father  ; "  a  third 
saw  a  bloody  spectacle.  I  gave  them,  in  my 
turn,  the  history  of  one  of  my  sentries,  the  ar- 
chetype  of  vigilance,  courage  and  simplicity. 

"  Midst  the  dark  horrors  of  the  sable  night 
(No  idle  dream  I  tell  nor  fancy's  strain) 
Thrice  rose  the  red  man's  shade  upon  my  sight, 
Thrice  vanished  into  dusky  air  again. 
With  courage  high  my  panting  bosom  swells, 
Onward  I  rushed  upon  the  threatening  foe, 
When,  hark !  Horrific  rise  the  spectre's  yells 
He  points  the  steel  and  aims  the  fatal  blow ; 
Guard,  sentinel !  to  arms !  to  arms  !  to  arms ! 
Indians  !    Indians  !  my  voice  swelled  loud  and  deep : 
The  camp  is  roused  at  dread  of  my  alarms, 
They  wake  and  find — that  I  am  sound  asleep  ! 

They  were  greatly  amused  at  the  recital  of 
his  imaginary  fancies,  and  seemed  to  under- 
stand how  little  import  I  attached  to  such 
visions.  **  Happen  what  may,"  said  they,  "  we 
shall  never  quit  our  father  until  we  seen  him  in 
a  place  of  safety."  This  was  precisely  what  I 
desired.    I  could  not,  however,  deceive  myself. 


ft 


to 
to 

iiw 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


149 


I  had  finally  entered  a  land,  the  theatre  of  so 
many  sanguinary  scenes.  I  was  now  on  the 
very  confines  of  these  barbarous  people,  from 
which,  possibly,  I  should  never  return  !  It  not 
unfrequently  happens,  that,  in  their  unbridled 
fury  when  they  hear  some  relative  has  been 
killed,  the  Black-feet  despatch  the  first  stranger 
they  meet,  scalp  him-  -and  then  abandon  to  the 
wolves  and  dogs,  the  palpitating  limbs  of  the 
unfortunate  victim  of  their  vengeance,  hatred, 
and  superstition.  I  declare  ^.o  j'^ou,  I  was  beset 
by  a  thousand  disquietudes  concenang  the  fate 
that  awaited  me.  Poor  na^  ir',  !  this  tir  id  and 
fragile  mens  homo  is  soit"  times  terrified.  He 
would  wish  to  look  back  and  listen  to  dreams. 
My  longing  desires  repeated  incessantly — Ad- 
vance !  I  placed  my  whole  confidence  in  God — 
the  prayers  of  so  many  fervent  souls  encouraged 
and  re-animate'd  me ;  I  resolved  not  to  be  de- 
terred by  an  uncertain  danger.  The  Lord  can, 
when  he  pleases,  ru'  llify  these  pitiless  and  fero- 
cious hearts.  The  salvation  of  souls  is  at 
stake,  and  tl  e  preservation  of  the  mission  of  St. 
Mary's  depends  on  my  proceeding  ;  for  there,  the 
incur  jions  of  the  Black-feet  are  very  frequent. 
What  consideration  could  deter  me  from  a  pro- 


i 


150 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


'*   J1 


m 


>>    >   t'S 


. ,  \tj 


>*51 


V, 


1;]' 


I 


ject  which  my  heart  had  cherished,  since  my 
first  visit  among  the  mountains  ? 

The  19th  and  20th,  we  followed  the  tracks 
of  our  unknown  predecessors,  and  they  ap- 
peared more  and  more  recent.  I  despatched 
my  two  guides  to  reconnoitre,  and  ascertain 
whom  we  were  ao  closely  pursuing. — One  of 
them  returned  the  same  evening,  with  the  iicwa 
that  he  had  found  a  small  camp  of  Assiniboins 
of  the  forest ;  that  they  had  been  well  received  ; 
that  a  disease  reigned  in  the  camp,  orwhich  two 
had  lately  died,  and  that  they  expressed  great 
desire  to  see  the  Black-gown,  The  following 
morning  we  joined  them,  and  journeyed  several 
days  in  companj^ 

The  Assiniboins  of  the  forest  do  not  amount 
to  more  than  fifty  lodges  or  families,  divided  into 
several  bands.  They  are  seldom  seen  in  the 
plains ;  the  forest  is  their  element,  and  they  are 
renowned  huntsmen  and  warriors.  They  travel 
over  the  mountains  and  through  the  woods,  over 
the  difierent  forks  and  branches  of  the  sources 
of  the  Sascatshawin  and  Athabaska.  Agricul- 
ture is  unknown  to  this  tribe  ;  they  subsist  ex- 
clusively on  small  animals,  such  as  big-horns, 
goats,  bucks ;  but  especially  on  the  porcupine, 
which  swarms  in  his  region.     When  pressed  by 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


151 


hunger,  they  have  recourse  to  roots,  seeds,  and 
the  inner  bark  of  the  cypress  tree.  They  own  few 
horses,  and  perform  all  their  journeys  on  foot. 
Their  hunters  set  out  early  in  the  morning, 
kill  all  the  game  they  meet,  and  suspend  it  to  the 
trees,  as  they  pass  along, — their  poor  wives,  or 
rather  their  slaves,  often  bearing  two  children 
on  their  backs,  and  drrgging  several  more  after 
them,  tardily  follow  their  husbands,  and  collect 
what  game  the  latter  have  killed.     They  had  a 
long  file  of  famished  dogs,  loaded  with  their 
little  provisions,  etc.     Every  family  has  a  band 
of  six  to  twelve  of  these  animals,  and  each  dog 
carries  fronl  30  to  35  lbs.  weight.     They  are  the 
most  wretched  animals  in  existence  ;  from  their 
tender-hearted  masters  and  mistresses  they  re- 
ceive more  bastinados  than  morsels,  consequent- 
ly  they  are   the   most  adroit   and  incorrigible 
rogues  to  be  found  in  the  forest.    Every  evening 
we  find  it  necessary  to  hang  all  our  property 
upon  the  trees,  beyond  the  reach  of  these  vora- 
cious dogs.    We    arc  even    compelled  to  barri- 
cade ourselves  within  our  tents  at  night,  and 
surround  them  with  boughs  of  trees  ;  for,  what- 
ever is  of  leather,  or  whatever  has  pertained  to 
a  living  being,  these  cratly  rogues  bear  away, 
and  devour.     You  will  say  1  have  little  charity 


^%V- 


;*  «■■; 


152 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


\i 


>  . 


'i 


for  these  poor  brutes — but  be  not  astonished. 
One  fine  evening,  having  neglected  the  ordinary 
precaution  of  blocking  up  the  entrance  of  my 
tent,  I  next  morning  found  myself  without  shoes 
— with  a  collarless  cassock — and  minus  one  leg 
to  my  culottes  de  peau  !  !  !  One  of  the  chiefs  of 
this  little  camp  recounted  to  me,  that  last 
winter,  one  of  his  nation,  having  been  reduced 
to  extreme  famine,  (and  such  cases  are  not  rare,) 
had  eaten  successively,  his  wife  and  four  chil- 
dren. The  monster  then  fled  into  the  desert, 
and  he  has  never  been  heard  of  since. 

The  Oregon  missionary.  Rev.  Mr.  Bolduc,  re- 
lated in  his  journal,  that  at  Akena,  one  of 
the  Gambia  Isles,  he  saw  an  old  dame,  who, 
having  had  eight  husbands,  had  eaten  three  of 
them,  during  a  time  of  famine  !  !  I  add  this  last 
fact  to  give  you  a  reverse  to  the  abo\  •  horrible 
picture. 

The  Assiniboins  have  the  reputation  of  being 
irascible,  jealous,  and  fond  of  babbling;  in  con- 
sequence of  these  bad  qualities,  battles  and 
murders  ire  not  unfrequent  among  them,  and  of 
course  continual  divisions.  Every  evening  I 
gave  them  instruction,  by  means  of  an  inter- 
preter. They  appeared  docile,  though  somewhat 
timorous :  for  they  had  frequently  been  visited 


4ib 


OREGON      MISSIONS, 


153 


by  p'^rsons  who  defamed  both  priests  and  re- 
ligion. I  rendered  all  the  little  services  in  my 
power  to  their  invalids,  baptized  six  children 
and  an  old  man  who  expired  two  days  after,  he 
was  interred  with  all  the  funeral  ceremonies  and 
prayers  of  the  church. 

Cleanliness  is  a  virtue  which  has  no  place 
in  the  Indian  catalogue  of  domestic  or  personal 
duties.  The  Assiniboins  are  filthy  beyond  con- 
ception ;  they  surpass  all  their  neigbours  in 
this  unenvied  qualification.  They  are  de- 
voured by  vermin,  which  they,  in  turn,  consume. 
A  .savage,  whom  I  playfully  reprehended  for 
his  cruelty  to  these  little  invertebral  insects, 
answered  me  :  "  He  bit  me  the  first,  I  have  a 
a  right  to  be  revenged."  Through  complacency, 
I  overcame  natural  disgust,  and  assisted  at  their 
porcupine  feast.  I  beheld  the  Indians  carve 
the  meat  on  their  leat'^'^rn  shirts,  highly  polish- 
ed with  grease — filthy,  and  swarming  with 
vermin,  they  had  disrobed  themselves,  for  the 
purpose  of  providing  a  table-cloth  !  —  They 
dried  their  hands  in  their  hair — this  is  their  only 
towel — and  as  the  porcupine  has  naturally  a 
strong  and  offensive  odor,  one  can  hardly  endure 
the  fragrance  of  those  who  ftasn  upon  its  flesh 
and  besmear  themselves  with  ics  oil. 


t 


i: 


r* '. 


54 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


I*.       ' 

I'!     •' 


(.I-- 


7  -  ?1 


^1 


Oil 


i  11 


A  good  old  woman,  whose  face  was  anointed 
with  blood,  (the  Indians'  mourning  weeds,)  pre- 
sented me  a  wooden  platter  filled  with  soup ; 
the  horn  spoon  destined  for  my  use  was  dirty 
and  covered  with  grease  ;  she  had  the  complai- 
sance to  apply  it  to  the  broad  side  of  her  tongue, 
before  putting  it  into  my  unsavory  broth. 

If  a  bit  of  dried  meat,  or  any  other  provision 
is  in  need  of  being  cleansed,  the  dainty  cook 
fills  her  mouth  with  water  and  spirts  it  with 
her  whole  force  upon  the  fated  object.  A  certain 
dish,  which  is  considered  a  prime  delicacy  among 
the   Indians,  is   prepared   in   a   most   singular 
manner,  and  they  are  entitled  to  a  patent  for  the 
happy  faculty  of  invention.     The  whole  process 
belongs  exclusively  to  the  female  department. 
They  commence  by  rubbing   their  hands  with 
grease,   and  collecting  in  them  the  blood  of  the 
animal,  which  they  boil  with  water;  finally,  they 
fill  the  kettle  with  fat  and  hashed  meat.     But — 
HASHED  WITH  THE  TEETH  !     Often  half  a  dozen  old 
woi.icn  are  occupied  in  this  mincing  operation 
during  hours  ;  mouthful  after  mouthful  is  masti- 
cated, and  thus  passes  from  the  mouth  into  the 
cauldron,  to  compose  the  choice  ragout  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.     Add  to  this,  by  way  of  an 
exquisite    desert,  an  immense  dish    of  crusts, 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


155 


composed  of  pulverized  ants,  grass-hoppers  and 
locusts,  that  had  been  dried  in  the  sun,  and  you 
may  then  be  able  to  form  some  idea  of  Indian 
luxury. 

The  American  porcupine,  the  Hystrix  dorsata^ 
is  called  by  modern  Zoologists,  the  Prickly  Bea- 
ver, In  fact  there  is  great  similarity  between 
the  two  species  in  size  and  form,  and  both  in- 
habit the  same  region.  The  porcupine,  like  the 
beaver,  has  a  double  peltry  or  fur ;  the  first  is 
long  and  soft ;  the  second,  is  still  softer,  and 
greatly  resembles  down  or  felt.  They  both 
have  two  long  sharp,  strong  tusks,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  jaw-bone.  The  Flat-heads 
affirm  that  the  porcupine  and  beaver  are 
brothers,  and  relate  that  anciently  they  abode 
together ;  but  that,  having  frequently  been  dis- 
covered by  their  enemies,  through  the  indolence, 
idleness  and  extreme  aversion  of  the  porcupines 
for  the  water,  the  beavers  met  in  council  and 
unanimously  agreed  upon  a  separation.  The 
latter  availed  themselves  of  a  fine  day  and  in- 
vited their  spiny  brethren  ;.o  accompany  them 
in  a  long  rjumble,  among  the  cypress  and  juniper 
of  the  forest.  The  indolent  and  heedless  porcu- 
pines, having  copiously  regaled  themselves  with 
the  savory  buds  of  the  one,  and  the  tender  rind 


at 


'% 


156 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


hi 


it'  I  i\ 

|t     ^  ■ 

hi    ' 
(Ij-., 

w  ■ 

I;     l^  ; 


If  .^1 


.V.'-. 


»','^ 


of  the  Other,  extended  their  weary  limbs  upon 
the  verdant  moss,  and  were  soon  lost  in  profound 
sleep.  This  was  the  anticipated  moment  for 
the  wily  beavers  to  bid  a  final  adieu  to  their 
porcupine  relatives. 

The  Assiniboins  inhabiting  the  plains  are  far 
more  numerous  than  their  mountain  brethren. 
They  number  about  six  hundred  lodges ;  they 
own  a  greater  number  of  horses,  and  the  men, 
in  general,  are  more  robust,  and  of  a  command- 
ing stature.  They  are  more  expert  in  thieving, 
are  greater  topers,  and  are  perpetually  at  war. 
They  hunt  the  buffalo  in  the  great  plains  bet- 
tween  the  Sascatshawin,  the  Red  river,  Missouri, 
and  Yellow  Stone. 

The  Crows,  Black-feet,  Arikaras  and  Sioux 
are  their  most  inveterate  enemies. — They  speak 
nearly  the  same  language  as  the  Sioux,  and 
have  the  same  origin. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  the  most  pro- 
found respect  and  veneration,  monseigneur, 
your  very  humble  and  very  obedient  servant  in 
Christ  Jesus, 

P.  J,  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


I 


i 


OREGON      MISSIONS, 


157 


i 


No.  XI. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


Fort  of  the  Mountains,  October  5,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — The  last  few  days  we  journeyed 
with  the  little  Assiniboin  camp,  the  aspect  of 
the  country  offered  nothing  ver}  interesting. 
We  passed  from  valley  to  valley  between  two 
high  chains  of  adamantine  mountains,  whose 
slopes  are,  here  and  there,  ornamented  with 
mounds  of  perpetual  snow.  A  beautiful  crys- 
talline fountain  issues  from  the  centre  of  a  per- 
pendicular rock  about  five  hundred  feet  high, 
and  then  pours  its  waters  over  the  plain  in  foam 
and  mist. 

The  29th  we  separated  from  the  Assiniboins ; 
the  path  conducted  us  through  a  thick  forest  of 
cypress ;  I  am  told  this  is  the  last — Deo  Gratias  ! 
These  belts  of  tall  firs  are  very  numerous,  and 
form  great  obstacles  and  barriers  to  land  com- 
munications between  the  east  and  west  of  the 

mountains.     I  have  a  little  word  of  advice  to 

8 


31  .',■,,.• 


'&0 


H 


I- 

t  ^ 

r 


158 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


give  all  who  wish  to  visit  these  latitudes.     At 
the  entrance   of  each   thick  forest,  one  should 
render  himself  as  slender,  as  short,  and  as  con- 
tracted as  possible,  imitating  the  different  evo- 
lutions in  all  encounters  of  an  intoxicated  cava- 
lier, but  with  skill  and  presence  of  mind.     I 
mean  to  say,  he  should  know  how  to  balance 
himself — cling  to  the  saddle  in  every   form,  to 
avoid  the  numerous  branches  that  intercept  his 
passage,  ever  ready  to  tear  him  into   pieces, 
and  flay  his  face  and  hands.     Notwithstanding 
these  precautions,  it  is  rare  to  escape  without 
paying  tribute  in  some  manner  to  the  ungra- 
cious  forest.      I   one   day   found   myself  in   a 
singular  and  critical  position:  in  attempting  to 
pass  under  a  tree  that  inclined  across  the  path, 
I  perceived  a  small  branch  in  form  of  a  hook, 
which  threatened  me.     The  first  impulse  was 
to  extend  myself  upon  the  neck  of  my  horse. 
Unavailing  precaution !     It  caught  me  by  the 
collar  of  my  surtout,  the  horse  still  continuing 
his  pace. — Behold  me  suspended   in  the  air — 
struggling  like  a  fish  at  the   end  of  a  hook. 
Several  respectable  pieces  of  my  coat  floated, 
in  all  probability,  a  long  time  in  the  forest,  as 
an  undeniable  proof  of  my  having  paid  toll  in 
passing  through  it,    A  crushed  and  torn  hat — 


!  i 


.1 


>• 


It 


I 


OREGON       MISSIO  NS. 


159 


\ 


ft 


an  eye  black  and  blue — two  deep  scratches  on 
the  cheek,  would,  in  a  civilized  country,  have 
given  me  the  appearance  rather  of  a  bully  is- 
suing from  thp  Blnrh  Vorrst^  than  a  mission- 
ary. 

To  render  a  bad  forest  superlatively  so,  a 
great  fall  of  snow  is  necessary.  This  special 
favor  was  lavished  upon  us  in  this  last  pas- 
sage. Wo  to  the  first  pedestrians !  The 
branches  groan  under  the  burden  of  their  wintry 
shroud,  and  seem  to  present  the  motto  :  "<Si  tan- 
gas  frangas  ! ''^  and  assuredly,  at  each  rubbing 
of  the  hat,  the  least  touching  of  the  arm  or  leg, 
a  deluge  of  snow  showers  down  upon  the 
shivering  cavalier  and  horse.  Immediately  the 
branch  rises  proudly  as  if  in  derision.  On  such 
occasions,  there  is  nothing  better  to  be  done 
than  to  form  a  rear  guard,  and  walk  in  the  track 
of  the  predecessor. 

Jn  pursuing  our  route,  the  27th,  on  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  river  "  a  la  Biche,"  (Red  Deer 
on  the  maps),  we  remarked  several  sulphurous 
fountains,  which  furnish  great  quantities  of  sul- 
phur, and  a  coal  mine,  apparently  very  abun- 
dant. 

I  here  beg  the  favor  of  a  short  digression  from 
my  subject.     Coal  abounds  east  of  the  Rocky 


;ti 


■:^f 


'I.'. 


H. 


f-  Km 


i^''.'' 


I     I 


I        ^ 


\ 


160 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


Mountains,  on  the  borders  of  the  Missouri  and 
Yellow  Rock,  on  the  Sascatshawin  and  Atha- 
baska.  Saltpetre  is  found  in  abundance,  and 
iron  is  not  scarce  in  many  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains. I  have  already  spoken  of  lead  in  the 
country  of  the  "  Koetenays,"  the  name  of  the 
river  at  the  copper  mine  in  the  north,  indicates 
its  riches ;  bars  of  this  precious  mstal  are  dis- 
covered among  the  rocks  bordering  the  river. 
Rock  salt  is  found  in  powder,  and  very  plentiful- 
in  the  Pays  Serpent. 

The  valley  is  picturesque  and  variegated ; 
flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  contribute  to  beautify 
the  scenery.  We  find  many  tracks  of  the  bears 
and  buffaloes ;  on  seeing  the  latter  my  party 
became  animated ;  for  the  buffaloes'  flesh  is, 
without  contradiction,  the  most  delicate  of  these 
regions.  One  is  never  tired  of  it.  Hitherto, 
the  animals  of  the  mountains  had  abundantly 
satisfied  our  necessities,  for  the  huntsmen  killed 
no  less  than  eighteen  pieces,  without  counting 
the  fowl  and  fish  which  are  so  plentiful  in  this 
country.  The  same  evening  the  remainder  of 
our  provisions  was  consumed,  and  a  buffalo 
chase  was  proposed  for  the  following  day.  One 
of  the  sportsmen  set  out  early,  and  at  breakfast 
time  we  perceived  him  coming,  with  a  round 


UUUUON       MliSaiONS. 


161 


fat  cow;  immediately  the  ribs,  tripes,  etc., 
honored  the  fire  with  their  presence.  The  rest 
of  the  day  was  spent  in  seeking  fresh  provisions. 

The  30th,  we  continued  our  route  through  the 
valley,  where  a  rivulet  of  clear  water  mean- 
ders. It  is  similar  to  all  the  other  valleys  west 
of  the  mountains,  agreeably  diversified  with 
meadows,  lakes,  and  forests — the  valley  widens 
in  proportion  as  one  descends — the  rocky  banks 
disappear — the  mountains  decrease,  and  appear 
insensibly  to  commingle  with  one  another. 
Some  are  covered  with  forests  even  to  their 
tops,  others  present  cones,  elevated  ramparts, 
covered  with  rich  verdure. 

The  4th  October,  after  having  traversed  the 
great  chain  of  mountains  nineteen  days  in  pur- 
suit of  the  Black-Feet,  we  entered  the  vast 
plain — this  ocean  of  prairies,  inhabited  by  a 
multitude  of  roving  savages,  buried  in  the  deep- 
est superstition.  The  Black-Feet,  Crows,  Ser- 
pents, (Arikaras),  Assiniboins  of  the  plains,  the 
Sheyennes,  Camanchos,  Sioux,  Omalias,  Ottos, 
Pawnees,  Kants,  Saucs,  Ajouas,  etc.,  etc.,  are 
without  pastors  !  We  hope  that  Divine  Provi- 
dence has  not  deferred  the  epoch  when  the 
darl<ness  now  overwhelming  these  immense  re- 
gions will  give  place  to  the   beneficial  light  of 


'J 


162 


OREGON       M  I  a  ri  .<      N  fa' . 


HM 


1   I 


'fl 


■}% 


%':■'  '"' 


the  gospel ; — that  worthy  and  zealous  pastors 
will  come  to  guide  in  the  way  of  salvation  these 
poor  and  unhappy  children  of  the  desert,  who, 
during  so  many  ages,  have  groaned  under  the 
dominion  of  the  devil,  and  among  whom  the 
war-song  and  the  cry  of  carnage  never  ceased 
to  resound.  There,  we  hope,  will  reign  in  their 
turn,  peace  and  Christian  charity,  and  the  fra- 
grance of  divine  love  and  praise  ascend  to  the 
only  true  God. 

The  worthy  Bishop  of  Juliopolis  has  estab- 
lished his  See  on  the  Red  river,  a  tributary  of 
the  Winnepeg,  amidst  the  possessions  of  the 
Anglo-Indians.  Already  two  of  his  zealous 
missionaries.  Rev.  Messrs.  Thibault  and  Bou- 
rassa,  have  penetrated  to  the  very  foot  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  whilst  other  indefatigable 
priests  have  been  employed,  fgr  many  years,  in 
extending  the  kingdom  of  God  in  this  immense 
diocess.  The  population  of  Red  River  is  about 
5,500  souls,  of  whom  3,175  are  Catholics.  There 
are  730  houses  inhabited.  I  had  the  honor  of 
receiving  a  letter  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  Thibault 
on  my  arrival  in  this  latitude.     He  says  : 

"From  the  month  of  March  to  September 
last,  I  have  labored  among  the  mountain 
nations  ;  they  are  well  disposed  to  embrace  the 


■ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


163 


,t 


I 


faith.  I  cannot  give  you  a  better  idea  of  these 
people  than  by  comparing  them  to  the  Flat- 
heads.  I  have  baptized  more  than  five  hundred 
children  and  adults  in  the  course  of  this  mission. 
As  soon  as  I  find  the  opportunity  of  a  water 
conveyance,  I  shall  continue  my  labors  among 
these  good  savages,  and  extend  my  route  as  far 
as  McKenzie's  river.  A  rich  harvest  would  be 
there  found  for  many  laborers  in  the  sacred 
ministry,  for  this  nation  is  populous  and  occupies 
a  vast  extent  of  country,  without  including 
several  other  nations  I  visited  this  summer. 
*  Come,  then,  to  us,*  said  they,  *  we,  also,  shall  be 
happy  to  learn  the  joyful  news  you  have 
brought  our  brethren  of  the  mountains  ;  we  are 
to  be  pitied,  not  knowing  the  word  of  the  Great 
Spirit;  be,  therefore,  charitable  to  us — come, 
teach  us  the  way  of  salvation — we  will  listen 
to  it.' 

"  My  fellow-laborer,  Bourassa,  set  out  in  Sep- 
tember, to  announce  the  Gospel  to  the  Indians 
residing  near  the  river  de  la  Paix." 

From  Lake  St.  Anne,  or  Manitou,  the  ordi- 
nary residence  of  these  two  gentlemen,  they  ex- 
tend their  apostolic  course  to  the  different  tribes 
on  the  rivers  Athabaska  and  McKenzie,  Peace 
river,  and  Slave  lake. 


n'. 


!:   .'..* 


%■ 


[<     ' 


l|. 


164 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Within  the  limits,  as  far  as  they  have  tra- 
velled, are  found  the  Black-Feet,  Crees,  Assini- 
boins  of  the  forest,  of  the  mountains,  Beaver 
Hunters,  Flat-side  Dogs,  Slaves,  and  Deer-Skins. 
(It  is  by  these  names  that  the  different  Indians 
are  known  among  the  whites  and  travellers.) 

The  great  Indian  district  of  the  United  States 
is  (if  I  may  say  so)  the  only  one  deprived  of  spi- 
ritual succor  and  the  means  of  salvation.  It 
contains  several  hundred  thousand  savages. 
This  vast  territory  is  bounded  on  the  north-west 
by  the  Anglo-Indian  possessions — east  by  the 
Western  States — south  by  Texas  and  Mexico — 
west  by  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  contains 
many  forts  or  trading  houses,  in  which  the 
greater  number  of  persons  employed  are  Cana- 
dian Catholics  or  French  Creoles.  The  princi- 
pal of  these  forts  are.  Fort  des  Corbeaux,  or 
Alexander,  on  the  Yellow  Stone,  Fort  la 
Ramee,  on  a  branch  of  the  river  Platte,  Fort 
Osage,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name — Fort 
Pied-noir,  or  Lewis,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Maria,  Fort  Union  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellow  Rock,  Fort  Berthold,  Fort  Mandan  or 
Clar  near  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Mis- 
souri, Fort  Pierre,  Fort  Look-out  and  Fort  Ver- 
million at  the  mouth  of  this  river,  the  other  trad- 


1 


O  R  E  G  (J  N       M  I  S  f  I  O  N  a . 


165 


»    I 


ing  houses  among  the  Pottawotomies  of  Coun- 
cil Bluffs  and  of  Bellevue  for  the  Ottos  and 
Pawnees.  The  great  depository  which  furnishes 
these  Forts  and  receives  all  the  peltry  and  buf- 
falo hides,  is  kept  at  8t.  Louis. 

Monseigneur  Loras,  Bishop  of  Dubuque,  has 
sent  two  priests  among  the  Sioux,  on  the  river 
St.  Pierre,  a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  Society  of  Jesus  has  a  mission  among  the 
Pottawotomies  on  Sugar  Creek,  a  tributary  of 
the  Osage  river.  The  Ladies  of  the  Sacred 
Heart  have  an  establishment  here.  During 
the  summer  of  1841,  the  late  distinguished  Ma- 
dame de  Galitzin,  provincial  of  the  Order  in 
Ameri'^a,  visited  this  section  of  the  country  for 
the  purpose  of  founding,  among  these  rude  sa- 
vages, a  house  of  education,  in  which  the  hapless 
children  of  the  desert  now  enjoy  the  benefit  of 
being  instructed  in  the  Christian  faith,  of  being 
formed  to  habits  of  industry  and  cleanliness, 
and  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  tho^o  branches 
of  education  suited  to  their  condition. — These 
two  missions  are  located  near  the  frontiers  of 
the  States,  and  are  the  only  ones  in  this  im- 
mense territory. 

The  upper  Missouri,  and  all  its  branches  as  far 

as  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  without  spiritual  as- 

8* 


i6(; 


OREGON        MISSIONS. 


1.^      i 


sistance.  Wherever  the  priest  has  passed  in 
traversing  the  desert,  he  has  been  received  with 
open  arms  among  the  tribes  that  rove  over  this 
country — alas  !  so  long  a  time  forgotten  and  ne- 
glected ! 

The  evening  of  4th  October,  I  arrived  at  the 
Fort  des  Montagnes,  belonging  to  the  Hon. 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  without  having  accom- 
plished the  object  of  my  travels  and  my  desires, 
namely,  meeting  the  Black-Feet,  The  respect- 
able and  worthy  commander  of  the  Fort,  Mr. 
Harriot,  an  Englishman  by  birth,  is  among  the 
most  amiable  gentlemen  I  have  ever  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting.  He  invited,  and  received 
into  his  hospitable  Fort  the  poor  missionary,  a 
Catholic  and  stranger,  with  a  politeness  and 
cordiality  truly  fraternal.  These  qualities  cha- 
racterize all  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  and  although  Mr.  Harriot  is  a  Protes- 
tant, he  encouraged  me  to  visit  the  Black-Feet ^ 
who  would  soon  arrive  at  the  Fort,  promising 
me  to  use  all  his  influence  with  these  barbar- 
ians to  obtain  me  a  friendly  reception.  He  has 
resided  many  years  among  them,  nevertheless 
he  did  not  conceal  from  mc  that  I  should  soon 
be  exposed  to  great  dnngers.  "  We  are  in  the 
hands  of  God — may  His  holy  will  be  done." 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


167 


I  am,  with  the  most  profound  respect  and 
esteem,  monseigneur,  your  very  humble  and  obe- 
dient servant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


I 


[^  't: 


168 


O  R  K  (i  O  N       M  I  8  S  I  O  N  !;< . 


F^'  ■ 


No.  XII. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


Fort  of  the  Mountains, 

October  30th,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — A  band  of  about  twenty  Crees, 
encamped  near  the  Fort,  came  to  shake  hands 
cordially  with  me  on  my  arrival.  The  joy  my 
presence  seemed  to  occasion  them,  proved  that 
I  was  not  the  first  priest  they  had  seen.  More- 
over, the  greater  number  wore  medals  and 
crosses.  They  informed  me  that  they  too  had 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a  Black-Gown, 
(Rev.  Mr.  Thibault),  who  taught  them  to  know 
and  serve  the  Great  Spirit — and  baptized  all 
their  little  children,  with  the  exception  of  three, 
who  were  absent  on  the  occasion.  These  chil- 
dren were  brought  tome — I  administered  baptism 
to  them,  and  at  the  same  time  to  one  of  my 
guides,  a  Koetenay.  During  their  stay  at  the 
Fort,  I  gave  them  instructions  every  evening. 

Two   Crees,   of  the  same  band  and  family 
father  and  son,  had  been  killed  in  a  quarrel  two 


I 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


1G9 


45. 

Crees, 
hanHs 
oy  my 
d  that 
More- 
s   and 
)o  had 
•Gown, 
know 
srd  all 
three, 
I  chil- 
iptism 
of  my 
at  the 
ling, 
family 
•cl  two 


I 


1 


year?  since.  The  presence  of  tlie  tjHendint^ 
party  for  the  tirst  time  since  the  perpetration  of 
the  murder,  rekindled  in  the  others  that  spirit  of 
rancor  and  revenge  so  natural  to  an  Indian's 
breast,  and  there  was  every  reason  to  appre- 
hend fatal  consequences  from  the  old  feud. 

With  the  approbation  of  Mr.  Harriot,  I  as- 
!?embled  them  all  in  the  Fort ;  the  governor 
himself  had  the  kindness  to  be  my  interpreter. 
He  made  a  long  discourse  on  the  obligation  and 
necessity  of  their  coming  to  a  sincere  reconcilia- 
tion ;  the  matter  was  discussed  in  form,  each 
Indian  giving  his  opinion  in  turn,  with  a  good 
sense  and  moderation  that  surprised  me.  I  had 
the  pleasure  and  satisfaction  of  seeing  the 
calumet  passed  around  the  assembly.  This  is 
the  solemn i  pledge  of  peace — the  token  of  Indian 
brotherhood — the  most  formal  declaration  of  the 
entire  fovgfnfidness  and  sincere  jiardon  of  an 
injury. 

The  Cree  nation  is  considered  very  powerful, 
and  numbers  more  than  six  hundred  wigwams. 
This  tribe  is  one  of  the  most  formidable  enemies 
of  the  Black-Feet,  and  continually  encroaches 
upon  the  territory  of  its  adversaries.  The  pre- 
ceding year  they  carried  off  more  than  six  hun- 
dred horses.     The  actual  limit  of  the  country 


% 


*t 


i 


»'. ' 


1 70 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


I '       :  -:  I , 


they  traverse  extends  from  the  bases  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  between  the  two  forks  of  the 
Sascatshawin,  some  distance  beyond  the  Red 
River.  Their  turbulent  and  warlike  spirit,  and 
rapacity  for  plunder,  especially  for  horses,  are 
among  the  great  obstacles  which  retard  the 
conversion  of  the  larger  portion  of  this  tribe. 

The  example  of  their  brethren,  who  listen 
with  docility  to  the  exhortations  of  their  zealous 
and  indefatigable  missionary  v^nll,  we  trust, 
produce  fruit  in  due  time,  and  be  imitated  by 
the  entire  nation. 

To  give  you  an  idea  of  their  military  disci- 
pline, and  of  the  profound  superstition  in  which 
these  unfortunate  people  are  still  immersed,  1 
will  relate  to  you  some  of  their  proceedings. 

The  Crees  were  meditating  a  deadly  stroke 
upon  the  Black-Feet,  and  for  this  purpose  they 
collected  all  their  ready  forces,  amounting  to 
more  than  eight  hundred  warriors.  Before  set- 
ting out  in  quest  of  the  enemy,  every  species  of 
juggling  a  ).l  witchcraft  imaginable  was  resorted 
to,  in  order  to  sr-^rire  the  success  of  the  expedi- 
tion. It  was  decided  that  a  young  girl,  with  a 
bandage  over  her  eyes,  should  be  placed  at  the 
head  of  the  Indian  army,  and  thus  blindfold, 
serve  as  a  guide  to  the  combatants.    In  case 


1 


tj  R  E  (i  U  N       i>i  1  S  ti  I  U  N  8  . 


171 


roke 
they 

to 
sct- 
s  of 
rted 
)edi- 
th  a 

the 
fold, 
case 


of  success,  the  heroine  was  destined  to  become 
the  bride  of  the  most  valiant.  According  to  the 
Oracle,  none  but  the  great  chief  himself  had  the 
privilege  of  shoeing  or  unshoeing  her. 

This  concluded,  they  began  their  march,  in- 
toxicated with  confidence  and  presumption,  fol- 
lowing this  extraordinary  guide  over  hills  and 
valleys,  ravines,  marshes,  and  swamps.  One 
day  she  would  direct  her  steps  towards  the  north, 
the  next  to  the  south  or  west — the  point  of  the 
compass  mattered  naught — the  Manitou  of  war 
was  supposed  to  guide  her,  and  day  after  day 
the  infatuated  Crees  continued  to  follow  the 
steps  of  the  blindfolded  Indian.  They  had  al- 
ready penetrated  far  into  the  plain,  when  they 
were  discovered  by  a  party  of  seven  Black-Feet. 
The  latter  might  easily  have  escaped  under 
favor  of  the  night,  but  the  Partisan,  or  Black- 
Foot  Chieftain,  a  man  of  undaunted  courage,  de- 
termined to  oppose  this  formidable  force.  With 
the  aid  of  their  poniards  they  made  themselves 
a  hollow,  in  which  they  took  shelter. 

The  following  morning,  at  day-break,  the  eight 
hundred  champions  surrounded  their  feeble  prey. 
The  first  who  pressed  forward  to  dislodge  them 
were  driven  back  several  times,  with  the  loss  of 
seven  men  and  tiileen  wounded.     The  failure  of 


(*■■ 


172 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


IS  I   ' 


i-:     'H;  \ 


!!  in 


ammunition  at  length  put  the  Black-Feet  at  the 
mercy  of  the  Crees,  by  whom  they  were  cut 
into  pieces.  The  first  engagement  threw  the 
victorious  party  into  consternation,  for  they  too, 
numbered  seven  killed  and  fifteen  wounded. 
They  removed  the  bandage  from  the  young 
heroine's  eyes,  and  the  Manitous  whom  they  had 
thought  so  propitious,  being  now  judged  un- 
favorable to  their  warlike  projects,  the  warriors 
hastily  dispersed,  taking  the  nearest  road  back 
to  their  respective  homes. 

The  Crees  have  a  rather  singular  custom 
among  them,  and  one  contrary  to  the  practice 
of  other  nations.  They  stain  the  faces  of  the 
warriors  who  fall  in  combat,  clothe  them  in 
their  richest  ornaments,  and  thus  expose  them 
in  places  conspicuous  to  their  enemies.  They 
place  near  them  their  guns,  bows  and  arrows, 
to  show  that  in  their  death  there  was  no  cause 
for  compassion  ;  and  this  they  do  purposely  that 
they  may  be  cut  into  pieces — an  opportunity 
which  an  enemy  never  sutTers  to  escape,  and 
which  a  Cree  warrior  regards  as  the  height  of 
his  wishes.  Other  nations,  on  the  contrary, 
carry  off  and  conceal  their  dead,  to  save  them 
from  the  rapacity  and  insults  of  their  enemies, 
and  to  be  out  into  pieces,  even  after  death,  is 


O  R  E  (.;  C)  i\        M  I  rt  S  I  (J  iN  s . 


\l',i 


t  the 

5    cut 

r  the 
too, 
ided. 
oung 
f  had 
I  un- 
rriors 
back 

istom 
a-ctice 
)f  the 
im  in 
them 
They 
rows, 
cause 
y  that 
unity 
and 
:ht  of 
trary, 
them 
jmies, 
ith,  is 


considered  a  great  dishonor  among-  tht^in. — The 
Crees  and  Sauteux  are  allies,  and  considerably 
intermixed  by  reciprocal  marriages.  The  latter 
form  the  most  numerous  and  widelv-difTused 
nation  of  these  parts. — They  are  to  be  met  with 
from  the  confines  of  Lower  Canada  even  to  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

This  is  also  the  nation  of  medicine,  par  excels 
lence  : — for  all  pretend  to  be  jugglers,  and  sell 
their  medicines  and  quackery  at  a  high  price. 
In  consequence  of  this  attachment  to  their  old, 
superstitious  practices,  and  the  great  profits 
they  derive  from  them,  the  seeds  of  the  Divine 
Word  has  hitherto  fallen  upon  an  unprofitable 
soil.  An  adroit  impostor  who  has  been  baptized, 
and  who  is,  moreover,  a  great  medicine  man 
among  them,  has  contributed  not  a  little  to  keep 
his  nation  in  an  obstinate  ignorance,  which 
makes  them  prefer  the  shades  of  paganism  to 
the  beneficial  light  of  the  gospel.  Falling  one 
day  into  a  species  of  lethargy,  it  was  thought 
that  he  had  expired — but  recovering  after  a 
shoi'":  time,  he  assembled  his  band,  atid  told 
them  the  following  story  : 

"Immediately  after  my  death  I  repaired  lo 
the  heaven  of  the  white  men,  or  Christians, 
where  the  Great  Spirit  and  Jesus  Christ  dwell, 


;.■    «' 


IH-. 


174 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


1  I 


111  I 


t  i 


but  they  refused  to  admit  me  on  account  of  my 
red  skin.  I  then  went  to  the  country  where  the 
souls  of  my  ancestors  are,  u,nd  there,  too,  I  was 
refused  admittance  on  account  of  my  baptism.  I 
am,  therefore,  come  back  to  this  earth,  to  re- 
nounce the  promises  I  made  in  baptism  and 
resume  my  medicine  bag,  hoping  to  expiate 
my  former  error  by  my  sincere  attachment  to 
jugglery,  and  thus  render  myself  once  more 
worthy  of  the  beautiful  and  spacious  plains  of 
that  happy  and  delightful  abode,  where  reigns 
everlasting  spring,  and  numberless  flocks  and 
herds  afford  an  abundant  and  everlasting  sub- 
sistence to  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Indian 
Elysium." 

This  extravagant  report  which  has  been  cir- 
culated throughout  the  whole  tribe  and  among 
the  neighboring  people,  has  greatly  contributed 
to  attach  them  to  their  old  customs  and  super- 
stitions,— and  make  them  turn  a  deaf  ear  to  the 
instructions  of  their  worthy  missionary. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Belcour^  has,  notwithstanding, 
succeeded  in  converting  a  considerable  number, 
whom  he  has  persuaded  to  renounce  the  illu- 
sions of  their  brethren,  and  united  in  a  village 
at  St.  Paul  des  Sauteux,  where  they  persevere 
fervently  in  all  the  practices  of  religion.     The 


iiit!!!: 


(JREGON       MISSIONS, 


175 


>t'my 
•e  the 
[  was 
sm.    I 
to  re- 
L   and 
cpiate 
3nt  to 
more 
ins  of 
reigns 
:s  and 
5  sub- 
[ndian 

m  cir- 
imong 
bated 
super- 
to  the 

nding, 

Lmber, 

e  iliu- 

illage 

levere 

The 


number  of  faithful,  in  this  spot,  increases  every 
year. 

At  length,  on  the  25th  October,  thirteen  Black- 
Feet  arrived  at  the  Fort.  They  saluted  me  with 
a  politeness  truly  a  la  sauvage^  rough  and  cor- 
dial, at  the  same  time.  The  old  chief  embraced 
mo  quite  tenderly  when  he  learned  the  object 
ofmyjournr  He  was  distinguished  from  his 
companions  uy  his  dress — being  decorated  from 
head  to  foot  with  eagles'  plumes,  and  wearing 
a  large  breast-plate  in  form  of  medallion,^^Mre(/ 
with  hlucy  as  a  mark  of  distinction.  He  was 
profuse  in  attention  to  me,  making  me  sit  beside 
him  whenever  I  went  to  visit  them  in  their 
apartment — shaking  me  affectionately  by  the 
hand  and  amicably  rubbing  my  cheeks  with  his 
scarlet-painted  nose.  He  cordially  invited  me 
to  his  country,  offering  to  be  my  guide  and  to 
introduce  me  to  his  people.  The  difference  of 
physiognomy  existing  between  the  Indians  in- 
hcbiting  the  plains  east  of  the  mountains  and 
those  near  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia, 
is  as  great  as  the  stupendous  rocks  that  sepa- 
rate them.  The  latter  are  remarkable  for 
their  mildness,  serenity  and  affability,  while 
cruelty,  craft — the  word  blood,  in  fine,  may  be 
read  in  every  feature  of  the  Black-Foot  Indian. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


{./ 


^  A 


,  Sg 

'^^ 
^^% 


/ 


1.0 


I.I 


|»o    ^^      >■■ 

■^  Uii   122 
2.0 


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IL25  i  1.4 


I 


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'/ 


Hiotogrd{M: 
_Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 
WIMTIR.N.Y    USM 

(7U)  •73-4303 


4\ 


JiAmmaimmmUmmiMMmtB^tKmtm 


l^^ 


i 


A: 


%■ 


170 


UKEiiON      MISfcilONH. 


r#..' 


Scarcely  could  an  innocent  hand  be  found  in 
the  whole  nation.  The  Lord,  however,  is  all 
powerful — "  from  stones  he  can  raise  up  chil- 
dren unto  Abraham,"  and,  full  of  confidence  in 
the  treasures  of  His  holy  grace  and  mercies,  I 
purpose  to  visit  them.  The  essential  point  and 
my  greatest  perplexity  is,  to  find  a  good  and 
faithful  interpreter ;  the  only  one  now  at  the 
Fort  is  a  suspicious  and  dangerous  man:  all 
his  employers  speak  ill  of  him — he  makes  fine 
promises.  In  the  alternative  of  either  renounc- 
ing my  project  or  being  of  some  utility  to  those 
poor,  unfortunate  Indians,  I  accept  his  services. 
May  he  be  faithful  to  his  engagement ! 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  monseigneur,  your 
very  humble  and  very  obedient  servant  in  Jesus 
Chriat, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


V 

i  *•  4 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


177 


No.  Xlll. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


J. 


Fort  of  the  Mountains, 

October  30th,  1845. 

The  year  1845  will  be  a  memorable  epoch  in 
the  sad  annals  of  the  Black-Feet  nation.  It  has 
been  a  year  of  disasters.  In  two  skirmishes  with 
the  Black-Feet  and  Kalispcls,  they  lost  twenty- 
one  warriors.  The  Crees  have  carried  off  a 
great  number  of  their  horses,  and  twenty-seven 
scalps.  The  Crows  have  struck  them  a  mortal 
blow — fifty  families,  the  entire  band  of  the  petite 
RobCf  were  lately  massacred,  and  one  hundred 
and  sixty  women  and  children  have  been  led 
into  captivity. 

What  a  dreadful  state  for  these  unfortunate 
beings.  In  the  first  excitement,  numbers  of  the 
captives  were  sacrificed  by  the  Crow  squaws  to 
the  manes  of  their  husbands,  brothers,  fathers, 
or  children.  The  survivors  were  condemned  to 
slavery.  The  smallpox  shortly  after  made  its 
appearance  in  the  conquerors'  camp,  and  spread 


w 

t 

[1 

<d^H 

!'■ 

1 

k ' 

1 

f 

%y 


H 


tf 


M  ' 


I     k\ 


178 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


rapidly  from  lodgo  to  lodge.  The  Black-Feet 
had  suffered  from  this  scourge  a  few  years  pre- 
vious, and  thousands  had  fallen  victims  to  it. 

The  Crows,  therefore,  interrogated  their  cap- 
tives to  know  by  what  means  they  had  escaped 
death.  A  dark  spirit  of  vengeance  seized  the 
latter ;  they  counselled  cold  baths  as  the  only 
efficacious  remedy,  to  stop  the  progress  of  the 
disease.  The  sick  immediately  plunged  into  the 
water,  and  mothers  went  to  the  river  to  bathe 
their  little  children.  Some  plunged  into  their 
graves ;  others  gave  up  their  last  sii2:h  while 
endeavoring  to  reach  the  shore — and  disconso- 
late mothers  returned  to  their  cabins  with  dead 
or  expiring  infants  in  their  arms.  Cries  of  de- 
spair succeeded  to  the  shouts  of  victory — desola- 
tion and  mourning  replaced  the  fanatic,  bar- 
barous joy  of  the  Crows.  Death  visited  every 
tent  of  the  victorious  camp  ! 

The  tradition  of  man's  creation  and  future 
immortality  exists  among  most  of  the  Indian 
tribes  ;  I  have  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting 
and  questioning  them  on  the  subject.  Those 
who  live  by  fishery,  suppose  their  Heaven  to  be 
full  of  lakes  and  rivers,  abounding  in  fish,  whose 
enchanted  shores  and  verdant  islands  produce 
fruits  of  every  kind. 


/ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


179 


-Feci 


I'p- 


j  pn 
it. 

r  cap- 
capcd 
)d  the 
e  only 
of  the 
ito  the 
bathe 
>  their 
.  while 
iconso- 
li  dead 
of  de- 
esola- 
,  bar- 
every 

future 
Indian 
isiting 
Those 
to  be 
whose 
•oduce 


I  encamped  on  the  banks  of  two  lakes  to  the 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  the  Black- 
Feet  call  the  lake  of  men  and  the  lake  of  women. 
According  to  their  traditions,  from  the  first  of 
these  issued  a  band  of  young  men,  handsome 
and  vigorous,  but  poor  and  naked.  From  the 
second  an  equal  number  of  ingenious  and  in- 
dustrious young  women,  who  constructed  and 
made  themselves  clothing.  They  lived  a  long 
time  separate  and  unknown  to  each  other,  until 
the  great  Manitou  Wizakeschak,  or  the  old  man, 
(still  invoked  by  the  Black-Feet),  visited  them  ; 
he  taught  them  to  slay  animals  in  the  chase, 
but  they  were  yet  ignorant  of  the  art  of  dress- 
ing skins.  Wizakeschak  conducted  them  to  the 
dwelling  o^  the  young  women,  who  received 
their  guests  with  dances  and  cries  of  joy.  Shoes, 
leggins,  shirts,  and  robes,  garnished  with  por- 
cupine quills,  were  presented  them.  Each  young 
woman  selected  her  guest,  and  presented  him 
with  a  dish  of  seeds  and  roots  ;  the  men,  desiring 
to  contribute  to  the  entertainment,  sought  the 
chase,  and  returned  loaded  with  game.  The 
women  liked  the  meat,  and  admired  the  strength, 
skill,  and  bravery  of  the  hunters.  The  men 
were  equally  delighted  with  the  beauty  of  their 
trappings,  and  admired  the  industry  of  the  wo- 


\ 


^1 


mi^'    . 


n 


ri  ,; 


180 


O  R  K  (;  O  N       MISSIONS. 


men.  Both  parties  began  to  think  they  were 
necessary  to  each  other,  and  Wizakeschak  pre- 
sided at  the  solemn  compact  in  which  it  was 
agreed  that  the  men  should  become  the  protec- 
tors of  the  women,  and  provide  all  necessaries 
for  their  support :  whilst  all  other  family  cares 
would  devolve  upon  the  women. 

The  Black-Feet  .squaws  often  bitterly  com- 
plain of  the  astonishing  folly  of  their  mothers 
in  accepting  such  a  proposition ;  declaring,  if 
the  compact  were  yet  to  be  made,  they  would 
arrange  it  in  a  very  different  manner. 

The  Black-Foot  heaven  is  a  country  com- 
posed of  sandy  hillsy  which  they  call  Espatchekie, 
whither  the  soul  goes  after  death,  and  where 
they  will  find  again  all  the  animals  thry  have 
killed,  and  all  the  horses  they  have  stolen.  The 
buffalo,  hind,  and  stag,  abound  there.  In  speak- 
ing of  the  departed,  a  Black-Foot  never  says, 
such  a  one  is  dead,  but  Espatchekie  etape — to 
the  Sand  hills  he  is  gone  ! 


Fort  Augusto,  on  the  Sascatshawin, 

December  31st,  1846. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — I  arranged    with    the    thirteen 
Black-Feet  of  whom  I  spoke  in  my  last,  that 


I 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


181 


were 
I  pre- 
it  was 
trotec- 
isaries 

cares 

Y  com- 
lothers 

•ing,  if 
would 

r   com- 

tchekie, 

where 

y  have 

I.    The 

speak- 

r  says, 

ipe — to 


.1* 

\ 


1846. 

Ihirteen 
St,  that 


ihey  should  precede  me  among  their  people,  to 
pave  the  way,  as  it  were,  and  prepare  their 
minds  to  receive  me. — Everything  seemed  pro- 
pitious, and  accordingly,  on  the  31st  of  October, 
I  took  leave  of  the  friendly  Mr.  Harriot.  I  was 
accompanied  by  my  interpreter,  and  a  young 
Metif  of  the  Cree  nation,  who  had  charge  of 
the  horses.  Notwithstanding  his  good  resolu- 
tions, my  interpreter  did  not  long  leave  me  in 
doubt  of  his  true  character.  The  wolf  cannot 
remain  concealed  beneath  the  sheep's  clothing. 
He  became  sullen  and  peevish,  always  choos- 
ing to  halt  in  those  places  where  the  poor  beasts 
of  burden  could  find  nothing  to  eat,  after  their 
long  da/s  journey.  The  farther  we  penetrated 
into  the  desert,  the  more  and  more  sulky  he 
became.  It  was  impossible  to  draw  from  him 
a  single  pleasant  word,  and  his  incoherent  mut- 
terings  and  allusions  became  subjects  of  serious 
apprehension.  Thus  passed  ten  sorrowful  days  ; 
my  last  two  nights  had  been  nights  of  anxiety 
and  watching  ;  when  fortunately,  I  encountered 
a  Canadian,  on  whom  I  prevailed  to  remain 
with  me  some  time.  The  following  day  my 
interpreter  disappeared.  Although  my  situa- 
tion was  extremely  precarious  in  this  danger- 
ous desert  without  interpreter,  without  guide, 


182 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


i!i 


.H  i  - 


.11  > 


tC'u . ' 


Ft  .  . 


*  t 


|v' 


!>^ 


yet  I  could  not  but  feel  relieved  of  a  heavy  bur- 
den by  the  departure  of  this  sullen  and  gloomy 
fellow.  Had  it  not  been  for  my  opportune  meet- 
ing with  the  Canadian,  it  is  probable  I  should 
not  have  escaped  his  deep  laid  scheme  against 
me. 

Friends  and  travellers  in  the  desert,  beware 
of  choosing  for  your  guide,  or  placing  your  de- 
pendence on  a  morose  Metif,  especially  if  he 
has  been  for  some  time  a  resident  among  the 
savages  ;  for  such  men  usually  possess  all  the 
faults  of  the  white  man  joined  to  the  cunning 
of  the  Indian.  I  determined  to  continue  my 
route  in  search  of  a  Canadian  interpreter,  whom 
we  understood  was  some  distance  in  advance 
of  us  on  the  same  road.  For  eight  successive 
days  we  wandered  on  in  that  labyrinth  of  val- 
leys, but  in  vain  ;  although  in  the  heart  of  their 
territory,  neither  the  Canadian  nor  the  Black- 
Feet  were  to  be  found.  Large  marauding  par- 
ties of  the  Crees  were  beating  the  country  at 
that  time,  and  it  appeared  evident  from  the 
tracks,  that  they  had  carried  everything  before 
them.  It  snowed  without  intermission  during 
four  days ;— our  poor  horses  were  nearly  exhaust- 
ed— my  wallet  contained  nothing  but  crumbs 
—the    passage    from  the  east  to  the  western 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


183 


side  of  the  mountains  was  become  impractica- 
ble, and  I  had  no  alternative,  but  to  repair  to 
one  of  the  forts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  beg  hospitality  during  the  inclement  season. 

The  entire  region  in  the  vicinity  of  the  first 
eastern  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  serving 
as  their  base  for  thirty  or  sixty  miles,  is  ex- 
tremely fertile,  abounding  in  forests,  plains, 
prairies,  lakes,  streams,  and  mineral  springs. 
The  rivers  and  streams  are  innumerable,  and 
on  every  side  offer  situations  favorable  for  the 
construction  of  mills.  The  northern  and  south- 
ern branches  of  the  Sascatshawin  water  the 
district  I  have  traversed,  for  a  distance  of  about 
three  hundred  miles.  Forests  of  pine,  cypress, 
thorn,  poplar  and  aspen  trees,  as  well  as  others 
of  different  kinds,  occupy  a  large  portion  of  it, 
covering  the  declivities  of  the  moantains,  and 
banks  of  the  rivers. 

These,  ordinarily,  take  their  rise  in  the 
highest  chains,  whence  they  issue  in  every  di- 
rection like  so  many  veins.  The  beds  and  sides 
of  these  rivers  are  pebbly,  and  their  courses  rapid, 
but  as  they  recede  from  the  mountains  they 
widen,  and  the  currents  lose  something  of  their 
impetuosity.  Their  waters  are  usually  very 
clear.     In  this  climate  wens  are  not  unfrequent. 


MMMMWi 


f     1 


if 

f  ! 


'■      ' 


#■; 


• 


r.  * 


'*•• 


184 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


The  country  would  be  capable  of  supporting  a 
large  population,  and  the  soil  is  favorable  for 
the  produce  of  barley,  corn,  potatoes,  and  beans, 
which  grow  here  as  well  as  in  the  more  south- 
ern countries. 

Are  these  vast  and  innumerable  fields  of  hay 
forever  destined  to  be  consumed  by  fire,  or 
perish  in  the  autumnal  snows?  How  long  shall 
these  superb  forests  be  the  haunts  of  wild 
beasts  ?  And  these  inexhaustible  quarries,  these 
abundant  mines  of  coal,  lead,  sulphur,  iron,  cop- 
per, and  saltpetre — can  it  be  that  they  are 
doomed  to  remain  for  ever  inactive  ?  Not  so — 
the  day  will  come  when  some  laboring  hand 
will  give  them  value  :  a  strong,  active,  and 
enterprising  people  are  destined  to  fill  this  spa- 
cious void. — The  wild  beasts  will,  ere  long,  give 
place  to  our  domestic  animals ;  flocks  and  herds 
will  graze  in  the  beautiful  meadows  that  border 
the  numberless  mountains,  hills,  valleys,  and 
plains  of  this  extensive  region.  A  large  portion 
of  the  surface  of  the  country  is  covered  with 
artificial  lakes,  formed  by  the  beavers.  On  our 
way,  we  had  frequently  occasion  to  remark, 
with  wonder  and  admiration,  the  extent  and 
height  of  their  ingeniously  constructed  dams 
and  solid  lodges.    These  are  remains  of  the  ad- 


I 


CAEOON       MISSIONS. 


185 


J  for 
;ans, 
)Uth- 


'hay 
3,   or 
shall 
wild 
these 
,  cop- 
'   are 
;  so — 
hand 
and 
spa- 
,  give 
herds 
)order 
and 
ortion 
with 
Pn  our 
mark, 
t  and 
dams 
le  ad- 


\ 


mirable  little  republics,  concerning  which  so 
many  wonders  have  justly  been  recorded.  Not 
more  than  half  a  century  ago,  such  was  the 
number  of  beavers  in  this  region,  that  a  good 
hunter  could  kill  a  hundred  in  a  month's  space. 

I  reached  Fort  Augustus  or  Edmondton  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  year.  Its  respectable 
Commandant,  the  worthy  Mr.  Rowan,  received 
me  with  all  the  tenderness  of  a  father,  and 
together  with  his  inestimable  family,  showed 
me  every  kindness  and  attention.  Never  shall 
I  have  it  in  my  power  to  cancel  the  debt  of 
gratitude  I  owe  them. — May  heaven  protect  and 
repay  them  with  its  choice  blessings ;  such  is 
the  most  sincere  prayer  of  a  poor  priest,  who 
will  ever  remember  them.  * 

I  must  await  a  more  favorable  moment  for 
visiting  the  Black-Feet.  The  skirmishing  par- 
ties appear  to  be  still  scouring  the  country.  The 
tidings  which  reach  us  concerning  them  tell 
only  of  pli:nder  and  bloodshed.  Meanwhile,  I 
have  the  honor  of  being,  with  profound  respect 
and  esteem,  Monseigneur,  your  very  humble  and 
obedient  servant  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  SMET.  S.  J. 


186 


OREGON       MISSION  H. 


No.  XIV. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


;.»,  i. 


'♦•■ 


Fort  Jasper,  April  16th,  1846. 

MoNSEiGNEUR, — Fort  Edmondton  or  Auguste 
is  the  great  emporium  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany in  the  districts  of  Upper  Sascatshawin  and 
Athabasca :  Forts  Jasper,  Assiniboine,  Little 
Slave  l^Jiko.  on  the  river  Athabasca,  Forts  des 
Montagues,  Pitt,  Carrollton,  Cumberland,  on  the 
Sascatshawin,  depend  on  it.  The  respectable 
and  worthy  Mr.  Rowan,  Governor  of  this  im- 
mense district,  unites,  to  all  the  amiable  and 
polite  qualities  of  a  perfect  gentleman,  those  of 
a  sincere  and  hospitable  friend ;  his  goodness 
and  paternal  tenderness  render  him  a  true  pa- 
triarch amidst  his  charming  and  numerous  fami- 
ly. He  is  esteemed  and  venerated  by  all  the 
surrounding  tribes,  and  though  advanced  in  age, 
he  possesses  extraordinary  activity. 

The  number  of  servants  at  Edmondton,  in- 
cluding children,  is  about  eighty.    They  form  a 


\ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


187 


16. 

guste 
Com- 
n  and 
Little 
ts  des 
on  the 
ctable 
is  inl- 
and 
ose  of 
jdness 
le  pa- 

fami- 
,11  the 

n  age, 

)n,  in- 
brm  a 


well-regulated  family.  Besides  a  large  garden, 
a  field  of  potatoes  and  wheat,  belonging  to  the 
establishment,  the  lakes,  forests,  and  plains  of 
the  neighborhood  furnish  provisions  in  abund- 
ance. On  my  arrival  at  the  Fort,  the  ice-house 
contained  thirty  thousand  white  fish,  each 
weighing  four  pounds,  and  five  hundred  bufla- 
loes,  the  ordinary  amount  of  the  winter  pro- 
visions. Such  is  the  quantity  of  aquatic  birds 
in  the  season,  that  sportmen  often  send  to  the 
Fort  carts  full  of  fowls.  Eggs  are  picked  up 
by  thousands  in  the  straw  and  reeds  of  the 
marshes. 

The  greater  number  of  those  employed  being 
Catholics,  I  found  suflicient  occupation.  Every 
morning  I  catechized  the  children,  and  gave  an 
instruction ;  in  the  evening,  after  the  labors  of 
the  day,  I  recited  the  prayers  for  the  honorable 
Commander  and  his  servants.  I  must  acknow- 
ledge, to  the  credit  of  the  inhabitants  of  Edmond- 
ton,  that  their  assiduity  knd  attention  to  reli- 
gious duties,  and  the  kindness  and  respectful  re- 
gard evinced  fjr  me,  were  a  source  of  great 
consolation  during  my  sojourn  of  two  months 
among  them.  May  God,  who  has  granted  them 
so  liberally  and  plentifully  the  dews  of  the  earth, 
enrich  them  likewise  with   those  of  Heaven ; 


n  ;■ 


1; 


h,-  ^:f.  ■ 


•r4!-  , 


.ft- 
if    '*■ 


4    .*■■    i 


V'  '  ' 

k 

1    ■     -■ 


'>2t« 


188 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


such  is  the  most  sincere  wish  and  prayer  of  a 
friend  who  will  never  forget  them. 

I  visited  Lake  St.  Anne,  the  ordinary  resid- 
ence of  Messrs.  Thibault  and  Bourassa ;  the 
latter  gentleman  was  absent.  The  distance 
from  the  fort  to  the  lake  is  about  fifty  miles. 
I  mentioned  this  interesting  mission  in  my  pre- 
ceding letters,  and  I  will  row  say  a  word  rela- 
tive to  the  country. — The  surface  of  this  region 
is  flat  for  the  most  part,  undulating  in  some 
places — diversified  with  forests  and  meadows, 
and  lakes  teeming  with  fish.  In  Lake  St.  Anne 
alone  were  caught,  last  autumn,  more  than 
seventy  thousand  white  fish,  the  most  delicious 
of  the  kind ;  they  are  taken  with  the  line  at 
every  season  of  the  year. 

Notwithstanding  the  rigor  and  duration  of 
the  winter  in  this  northern  region,  the  earth  in 
general  appears  fertile ;  vegetation  is  so  for- 
ward in  the  spring  and  summer,  that  potatoes, 
wheat  and  barley,  together  with  other  vegeta- 
bles of  Canada,  come  to  maturity.  Lake  Saint 
Anne  forms  one  of  a  chain  of  lakes  ;  I  counted 
eleven  of  them,  which  flow  into  the  Sascatsha- 
win  by  the  small  river  Esturgeons,  or  Sturgeon, 
Innumerable  republics  of  beavers  formerly  ex- 
isted there  ;  each  lake,  each  march,  each  river. 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


189 


of  a 

:esid- 
;  the 
tance 
niles. 
rpre- 

rela- 
egion 
some 
dows, 
Anne 

than 
icious 
ne  at 

on  of 
rth  in 
for- 
atoes, 
geta- 
Saint 
unted 
tsha- 
'geon. 
ex- 
river, 


bears,  even  to  this  day,  proofs  of  their  labors. 
What  I  here  say  of  beavers  is  applicable  to 
almost  all  the  Hudson  territory.  When  the 
reindeer,  buffalo,  and  moose  abounded,  the 
Crees  were  then  peaceful  possessors  ; — animals 
have  disappeared,  and  with  them  the  ancient 
lords  of  the  country.  Scarcely  do  we  meet  with 
a  solitary  hut — but  now  and  then  the  tracks  of 
some  large  animal.  Seventeen  families  of 
Metifs,  descendants  of  English  Canadians  and 
savages,  have  assembled  and  settled  around 
their  missionaries.  The  Crees  have  gained  the 
buffalo  plains,  and  they  contend  for  them  with 
the  Black-Feet,  whose  mortal  foes  they  have 
become. 

In  proportion  as  the  rigors  of  winter  began  to 
give  place  to  the  cheering  dawn  of  spring,  simul- 
taneously did  my  pulse  beat  to  approach  near 
the  mountain,  there  to  await  a  favorable  oppor- 
tunity to  cross  it,  so  that  I  might  arrive  as  early 
as  possible  at  the  mission  of  St.  Ignatius. 

The  12th  of  March,  I  bade  farewell  to  the 
respectable  Rowan  family,  and  to  all  the  ser- 
vants of  the  Fort.  I  was  accompanied  by  three 
brave  Metifs,  whom  Mr.  Thibault  was  so  kind 
as  to  procure  me.    At  this  season,  the  whole 

country  lies  buried  in  snow,  and  voyages  are 

9* 


100 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


4 


» ■ 


ip  % 


If,;;'  i 


\ 


I,' 

If         . 

It    '  I '  ' 

if 


i    ( 


made  in  sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  Our  provi- 
sions and  baggage  were  conveyed  in  two  of 
these  sledges ;  the  third,  drawn  by  four  dogs, 
was  reserved  for  me.  I  found  this  mode  of 
travelling  quite  a  novelty ;  and  on  the  glittering 
ice  of  the  rivers  and  lakes,  it  was  particularly 
convenient  and  agreeable.  The  third  day  we 
encamped  near  Lake  de  TAigle  Noir,  which 
abounds  in  white  fish ;  on  the  sixth,  we  arrived 
at  Fort  Assiniboine,  built  in  a  meadow  on  the 
river  Athabasca,  where  it  is  two  hundred  and 
thirty-three  fathoms  broad,  which  breadth  it 
seems  to  preserve  more  or  less  until  it  leaves 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  its  current  is  extremely 
rapid.  In  the  spring  it  can  be  descended  in 
three  days  from  Fort  Jasper  to  Fort  Assiniboine 
a  distance  of  more  than  three  hundred  miles. 
With  our  sledges  we  were  nine  days  accom- 
plishing the  journey.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
studded  with  islands,  which,  by  their  various 
positions  and  features,  render  the  prospect  very 
agreeable.  Its  shores  are  covered  with  thick 
forests  of  pine  intersecting  rocks  and  high  hills 
which  embellish  and  give  a  touch  of  the  pictur- 
esque to  the  general  monotony  of  the  desert. 

The   principal  branches   are   the   Pembina, 
which  measures  four  hundred  and  sixty-four 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


191 


provi- 
wo  of 

dogs, 
>de  of 
tering 
ularly 
ly  we 
which 
rrived 
)n  the 
d  and 
dth  it 
leaves 
emely 
tied  in 
iboine 
miles. 
1,0  com- 
ver  is 
arious 
t  very 

thick 
hills 
)ictur- 
ert. 
ibina, 
y-four 


I 


k 


feet  across — the  river  des  Avirons,  one  hundred 
and  twenty-eight  feet ;  the  river  Des  Gens  Li- 
bres,  the  branch  McCloud,  and  river  Baptist  Ber- 
land,  are  about  eighty  fathoms  wide  at  their 
mouth.  The  rivers  Du  Vieux,  du  Milieu,  des 
Prairies,  and  des  Roches,  form  beautiful  cur- 
rents. Lake  Jasper,  eight  miles  in  length,  is 
situated  at  the  base  of  the  first  great  mountain 
chain.  The  fort  of  the  same  name,  and  the  se- 
cond lake,  are  twenty  miles  higher,  and  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains.  The  rivers  Violin  and 
Medicine  on  the  southern  side,  and  the  Assini- 
boine  on  the  northern,  must  be  crossed  to  arrive 
there,  and  to  reach  the  height  of  land  at  the 
du  Committees  Punch  BowU  we  cross  the  rivers 
Maline,  Gens  de  Colets,  Miette  and  Trou, 
which  we  ascended  to  its  source.  The  river 
Medicine  mmgles  its  waters  with  those  of  the 
Sascatshawin ;  the  Assiniboine  and  Gents  de 
Colets  with  those  of  the  Boucane,  a  tributary  of 
a  la  Paix.  The  waters  of  the  Miette,  have  their 
source  at  the  same  height,  with  some  branches 
of  the  river  Frazer,  which  crosses  New  Cale- 
donia. 

Some  years  since,  the  valleys  and  high  forests 
of  Athabasca  were  exclusively  appropriated  to 
the  chase  by    the  Assiniboincs  of  the  forests ; 


192 


OREGON      M  ISSIO  NS. 


ti^i 


the  scarcity  of  game  forced  them  to  quit  their 
land — since  their  departure  the  animals  have 
increased  in  an  astonishing  manner.    In  various 
places  on  the  river,  we  saw  ravages  of  the  beavers 
which  I  should  have  taken  for  recent  encamp- 
ments of  savages,  so  great  a  quantity  of  felled 
trees  was  there.     Many  wandering  families  of 
the  carrier  tribe  and  Achiganes  or  Sock  Indians 
of  New  Caledonia,  compelled  by  hunger,  have 
quitted  their  country,  traversed  the  east  of  the 
mountains,  and  now  cross  the  valleys  of  this 
region  in  quest  of  food.     They  nourish  them- 
selves with  roots,  and  whatever  they  can  catch, 
many  of  them  have  their  teeth  worn   to  the 
gums  by  the  earth  and  sand  they  swallow  with 
their  nourishment.     In  winter  they  fare  well : 
for  then  the  moose,  elk  and  reindeer  are  plenti- 
ful. The  reindeer  feed  on  a  kind  of  white  moss, 
and  the  paunch  is  considered  delicious  when 
the  food  is  half  digested.     By  way  of  a  dainty 
morsel,  the  Indians  pluck  out  the  eyes  of  fish 
with  the  end  of  the  fingers  and  swallow  them 
raw,  likewise  the  tripes  with  their  whole  con- 
tents, without   further   ceremony  than   placing 
them  an  instant  on  the  coals,  from  thence  into 
the  omnibus  or  general  reservoir,  without  even 
undergoing  the  operation  of  the  jaws. 


s 


r    1i 


11 


I 


:heir 
have 
rious 
ivers 
amp- 
felled 
ies  of 
dians 
have 
►f  the 
f  this 
:hem- 
catch, 
o  the 

with 
well : 
)lenti- 
moss, 
when 
lainty 
)f  fish 

them 
|e  con- 

acing 
into 

even 


i 


s 


a 


tf3 


a: 


X 


IM  ■4'*'*^ 

Hi  ■  • 

V'i 

1 

» 

* '.               >  ' 

,  >■               \ 

■   *  •               1 

iil 


m 


OREGON     MIS  8I0NS. 


193 


The  Montagnees  Indians  inhabit  the  lower 
part  of  Athabasca,  also  the  great  lake  of  this 
name.  The  elk  is  very  common,  and  the  rein- 
deer are  found  in  large  bands ;  the  chase  of  the 
latter  is  both  easy  and  singular.  They  regularly 
bend  their  course  northward  in  autumn,  and  re- 
turn towards  the  south  in  the  spring.  The  In- 
dians know  their  usual  crossing-places  over  the 
lakes  and  rivers — and  when  the  herd  (often 
many  hundreds  in  number)  are  in  the  water, 
and  approach  the  opposite  shore,  the  huntsmen 
leave  their  concealment,  jump  into  their  light 
canoes,  and  yell  with  all  their  strength  to  make 
them  return  to  the  centre ;  there  they  harass 
them,  continually  driving  them  from  the  shore, 
until  the  poor  animals  become  exhausted ;  then 
begins  the  work  of  carnage  ;  they  are  killed 
without  difficulty  by  daggers  and  darts,  and  it 
rarely  happens  that  one  effects  his  escape.  They 
cover  their  huts  and  dress  themselves  with  the 
skins  of  the  reindeer.  Lakes  and  marshes  being 
so  numerous  in  this  country,  swans,  geese,  bus- 
tards, and  ducks  of  various  species,  come  hither 
in  thousands  during  the  spring  and  autumn. 
The  savages  travel  over  these  marshy  places  in 
Rackets  in  quest  of  eggs,  on  which  they  mostly 
subsist  during  this  season.     Often  squares  of 


w 


104 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


§ 


several  acres  are  found  covered  with  nests. 
White  fish,  carp,  trout,  and  unknown  fish,  abound 
in  all  these  lakes  and  rivers. 

Two  missionaries,  a  Father  of  the  order  of  Ob- 
lats  of  Marseilles  and  a  Canadian  priest,  are  on 
the  way,  with  the  intention  of  penetrating  into 
the  interior  of  the  country.  The  reception  gi- 
ven to  Mr.  Thibault  last  summer  by  the  Mon- 
tagnees,  leaves  little  doubt  of  the  happy  results 
of  this  praiseworthy  and  holy  enterprise.  On 
the  banks  of  the  Jasper,  we  met  an  old  Iroquois 
called  Louis  Kwaragkwante,  or  the  travelling 
sun,  accompanied  by  his  family,  thirty-six  in 
number.  He  has  been  forty  years  absent  from 
his  country,  during  which  he  has  never  seen  a 
priest — ^has  dwelt  in  the  forest  of  Athabasca  on 
Peace  river  and  subsisted  by  hunting  and  fish- 
ing. The  good  old  man  was  overwhelmed  with 
joy,  and  the  children  experienced  a  similar  feel- 
ing with  their  father.  I  will  give  you  the  old 
man's  words  in  English,  on  learning  that  I  was 
a  priest :  "  How  glad  I  am  to  have  come  here, 
for  I  have  not  seen  a  priest  for  many  years.  To- 
day I  behold  a  priest,  as  I  did  in  my  own  coun- 
try— my  heart  rejoices — wherever  you  go  I 
shall  follow  you  with  my  children — all  will  hear 
the  word  of  prayer— all  will  have  the  happiness 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


195 


4 


to  receive  baptism. — Therefore  my  heart  rejoi- 
ces and  is  happy."  The  little  Iroquois  camp 
immediately  set  out  to  follow  me  to  Fort  Jasper. 
Most  of  them  know  their  prayers  in  Iroquois. 
I  remained  fifteen  days  at  the  Fort,  instructing 
them  in  the  duties  of  religion — after  Mass,  on 
Sunday,  all  were  regenerated  in  the  waters  of 
baptism,  and  seven  marriages  renewed  and 
blessed.  The  number  of  baptized  amounted  to 
forty-four ;  among  whom  was  the  lady  of  Mr. 
Frazer,  (Superintendent  of  the  Fort),  and  four 
of  his  children  and  two  servants. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  the  most  profound 
respect  and  high  regard,  Monseigneur,  your 
very  humble  and  obedient  servant  in  Jesus 
Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


'i 


196 


OREGON      MtSSIONB. 


If   V' 


II I 


'•4 

If; 


m 


»  * 


i    ! 


liif 


No,  XV. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


I  !. 


Foot  of  the  Great  Glacierei  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Athabasca, 

May  6th,  1845. 

MoNSEiGNEUR — Provisions  becoming  scarce  at 
the  Fort,  at  the  moment  when  we  had  with  us 
a  considerable  number  of  Iroquois  from  the 
surrounding  country,  who  were  resolved  to  re- 
main until  my  departure,  in  order  to  assist  at 
the  instructions,  we  should  have  found  our- 
selves in  an  embarrassing  situation  had  not  Mr. 
Frazer  come  to  our  relief,  by  proposing  that  we 
should  leave  the  Fort  and  accompany  himself 
and  family  to  the  Lake  of  Islands,  where  we 
could  subsist  partly  on  fish.  As  the  distance 
was  not  great,  we  accepted  this  invitation,  and 
set  out  to  the  number  of  fifty-four  persons,  and 
twenty  dogs.  I  count  the  latter,  because  we 
were  as  much  obliged  to  provide  for  them,  as 
for  ourselves.  A  little  note  of  the  game  killed 
by  our  hunters  during  the  twenty-six  days  of 


ii! 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


197 


>a8cai 

145. 

ce  at 
ith  us 
n  the 
to  re- 
sist at 
[  our- 
ot  Mr. 
at  we 
imself 
re  we 
tance 
1,  and 
3,  and 
se  we 
m,  as 
killed 
3tys  of 


our  abode  at  this  place,  will  perhaps  afford  you 
some  interest ;  at  least,  it  will  make  you  ac- 
quainted with  the  animals  of  the  country,  and 
prove  that  the  mountaineers  of  Athabasca  are 
blessed  with  good  appetites.  Animals  killed — 
twelve  moose  deer,  two  reindeer,  thirty  large 
mountain  sheep  or  big  horn,  two  porcupines, 
two  hundred  and  ten  hares,  one  beaver,  two 
muskrats,  twenty-four  bustards,  one  hundred 
and  fifteen  ducks,  twenty-one  pheasants,  one 
snipe,  one  eagle,  one  owl ;  add  to  this  from 
thirty  to  fifty  fine  white  fish  every  day  and 
twenty  trout,  and  then  judge  whether  or  not 
our  people  had  reason  to  complain ;  yet  we 
heard  them  constantly  saying  ;  "  How  hard  liv- 
ing is  here  ?  The  country  is  miserably  poor — 
we  are  obliged  to  fast." 

As  the  time  approached  at  which  I  was  to 
leave  my  new  children  in  Christ,  they  earnestly 
begged  leave  to  honor  me,  before  my  departure, 
with  a  little  ceremony  to  prove  their  attach- 
ment, and  that  their  children  might  always 
remember  him  who  had  first  put  them  in  the 
way  of  life.  Each  one  discharged  his  musket 
in  the  direction  of  the  highest  mountain,  a  large 
rock  jutting  out  in  the  form  of  a  sugar  loaf, 
and  with  three  loud  hurrahs  gave  it  my  name. 


■^■'■' 


1: .' 


I^•:  :■'■ 

t 

f 

If 

.  1     ■ 

1                                                          i 

"•      ;• 

;  , ,  ■     y 

f\   1  ' 

f  f    ■ 

1    T^ 

1  i:  :     ' 

h 

i-1 

t      : 

)     ' 

|i1^v. 

1  '^' 

I'i 

L ".  f ; 

(!»'••■;. 

1  ■^■';- ' 

K^^<f  > 

tw^'^' 

ff     }        *     /*    * 

I  U  i-^  ■ 

*.  ti-'  <■ 

15.'     'f  i;\  ■ 

ji:   ^j^  •-  "" 

1 '  '!';^  ■' 

5 

|**i^* 

f  ■>'•* 

t 

1  !^  '  ;'■    . 

1 

Iv''-    ^■ 

l-:'^ 

1 

108 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


!.                           !    i 

;   »                       a  ,     ' 

Y^           t 

^^^^^^B^k>_.    f'Jik 

This  mountain  is  more  than   14,000  feet  high, 
and  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 

On  the  25th  April,  I  bade  farewell  to  my  kind 
friend  Mr.  Frazer,  and  his  amiable  children, 
who  had  treated  me  with  every  mark  of  atten- 
tion and  kindness. 

All  the  men  in  the  camp  insisted  on  honoring 
me  with  an  escort,  and  accompanied  me  a  dis- 
tance of  ten  miles.  Here  we  separated,  each 
one  affectionately  pressed  my  hand — mutual 
good  wishes  were  exchanged — tears  flowed  on 
both  sides — and  I  was  left  with  my  companions 
in  one  of  those  wild  ravines  where  nothing 
meets  the  eye,  but  ranges  of  gloomy  mountains 
rising  on  all  sides,  like  so  many  impassable 
barriers. 

Upper  Athabasca  is,  unquestionably,  the 
most  elevated  part  of  North  America.  All  its 
mountains  are  prodigious,  and  their  rocky  and 
snow-capt  summits  seem  to  lose  themselves  in 
the  clouds.  At  this  season,  immense  masses  of 
snow  often  become  loosened  and  roll  down  the 
mountains'  sides  with  a  terrific  noise,  that  re- 
sounds throughout  these  quiet  solitudes  like 
distant  thunder — so  irresistible  is  the  velocity 
of  their  descent,  that  they  frequently  carry  with 
them  enormous  fragments  of  rock,  and  force  a 


1 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


190 


et  high, 

ny  kind 
hildren, 
f  atten- 

)noring 
e  a  dis- 
d,  each 
mutual 
wed  on 
^anions 
nothing 
untains 
xssable 

y,  the 
A.1I  its 
:y  and 
ves  in 
5ses  of 
tvn  the 
at  re- 
like 
3locity 
y  with 
)rce  a 


s 


passage  throujrh  the  dense  forests  which  cover 
the  base  of  the  mountain.  At  each  hour,  the 
noise  of  ten  avalanches  descending  at  once, 
breaks  upon  thf^  ear  ;  on  every  side  we  see  them 
precipitated  with  a  frightful  rapidity. 

From  these  mountains,  the  majestic  river  of 
the  north,  the  upper  branch  of  the  Sascatshawin, 
the  two  great  forks  of  the  McKenzie,  the  Atha- 
basca and  Peace  rivers,  the  Columbia,  and 
Frazer  at  the  west,  derive  the  greater  part  of 
their  waters. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  Miette  river,  we 
fell  in  with  one  of  those  poor  families  of  Por- 
teurs  or  "  Itoaten,"  of  New  Caledonia,  of  whom 
I  spoke  to  you  in  a  former  letter  ;  they  saw  us 
from  the  summit  of  the  mountain  that  over- 
looks the  valley  through  which  we  were  pass- 
ing, and  perceiving  we  were  whites,  hastened 
down  to  meet  us.  They  appeared  overjoyed  at 
seeing  us,  particularly  when  they  discovered 
that  I  was  a  Black-gown ;  they  crowded  around 
me,  and  begged  me  to  baptize  them  with  an 
earnestness  that  affected  me  to  tears,  though  I 
was  able  to  grant  this  favor  to  only  two  of  their 
smallest  children,  the  others  required  instruction, 
but  there  was  no  interpreter.  I  exhorted  them 
to  return  soon  to  their  own  country,  where  they 


.>   . 


I,  )\ 


200 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


would  find  a  Black-gown  (Father  Nobili)  who 
would  instruct  them.  They  made  the  sign  of 
the  cross,  recited  some  prayers  in  their  own 
language,  and  sang  several  hymns  with  great 
apparent  devotion.  The  condition  of  these 
people  seemed  very  wretched;  they  had  no 
clothes  but  a  few  rags  and  some  pieces  of  skins, 
and  yet,  notwithstanding  their  extreme  poverty, 
they  laid  at  my  feet  the  mountain  sheep  they 
had  just  killed. 

The  history  of  a  poor  young  woman,  one  of 
their  number,  deserves  to  be  recorded,  as  it 
affords  a  lively  picture  of  the  dangers  and  afflic- 
tions to  which  these  unfortunate  people  are 
often  exposed.  When  she  was  about  fifteen 
years  of  age,  her  father,  mother,  and  brothers, 
together  with  another  family  of  her  nation,  were 
surprised  in  the  wood  by  a  party  of  Assiniboine 
warriors,  and  massacred  without  mercy.  At 
the  time  of  this  horrid  scene,  the  young  girl 
was  in  another  part  of  the  forest  with  her  two 
sisters,  both  younger  than  herself;  they  suc- 
ceeded in  concealing  themselves,  and  thus  es- 
caped falling  into  the  bands  of  the  assassins. 
The  hapless  orphan  wandered  about  the  desert 
for  two  years,  without  meeting  any  human 
being,  subsisting  on  roots,  wild  fruits,  and  porcu- 


I 


u  •  *) 

r '         ^. 

M     - 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


201 


ili)  who 
sign  of 
nr  own 
h  great 
f  these 
bad  no 
>f  skins, 
)overty, 
jp  they 

one  of 
,   as  it 
1  afflic- 
►le    are 
fifteen 
others, 
1,  were 
liboine 
y.     At 
g   girl 
r  two 
y  suc- 
us  es- 
issins. 
desert 
uman 
porcu- 


I 


pines.  In  winter  she  sheltered  herself  in  the 
abandoned  den  of  a  bear.  The  sisters  left  her 
at  the  end  of  the  first  year,  since  which  they 
have  never  been  heard  of.  At  length,  after 
three  years,  she  was  fortunately  found  by  a 
good  Canadian,  who  took  her  home,  provided 
her  with  comfortable  food  and  clothing,  and  six 
months  after  restored  her  to  her  tribe. 

We  resumed  our  journey  the  following  day, 
and  arrived  about  nightfall  on  the  banks  of 
the  Athabaska,  at  the  spot  called  the  "  Great 
Crossing."  Here  we  deviated  from  the  course 
of  that  river,  and  entered  the  valley  de  la 
Fourche  du  Trou. 

As  we  approached  the  highlands  the  snow 
became  much  deeper.  On  the  1st  of  May,  we 
reached  the  great  Bature,  which  has  all  the 
appearance  of  a  lake  just  drained  of  its  waters. 
Here  we  pitched  our  tent  to  await  the  arrival 
of  the  people  from  Columbia,  who  always  pass 
by  this  route  on  the  way  to  Canada  and  York 
Factory.  Not  far  from  the  place  of  our  en- 
campment, we  found  a  new  object  of  surprise 
and  admiration.  An  immense  mountain  of 
pure  ice,  1,500  feet  high,  enclosed  between  two 
enormous  rocks.  So  great  is  the  transparency 
of  this  beautiful  ice,  that  we  can  easily  distin- 


> 


»'  r' 


).  '. 


»^  V  ' 

1 

i. 

11 

I 

f     * : 

i 

t^ 

11 

i 

E       • 

i 

( 

1 

1 

I^M 


p- '    f 


i«  ' 


^ 


202 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


guish  objects  in  it  to  the  depth  of  more  than 
six  feet.  One  would  say,  by  its  appear- 
ance, that  in  some  sudden  and  extraordinary 
swell  of  the  river,  immense  icebergs  had  been 
forced  between  these  rocks,  and  had  there  piled 
themselves  on  one  another,  so  as  to  form  this 
magnificent  glacier.  What  gives  some  color 
of  probability  to  this  conjecture  is,  that  on  the 
other  side  of  the  glacier,  there  is  a  large  lake 
of  considerable  elevation.  From  the  base  of 
this  gigantic  iceberg,  the  river  Trou  takes  its 
rise. 

The  people  of  Columbia  have  just  arrived. 
I  must  therefore  take  this  present  opportunity, 
the  only  one  I  shall  have  for  a  long  time,  of 
sending  you  my  letters,  and  before  closing  this, 
permit  me  again  to  recommend  myself  and  all 
my  missions  to  your  holy  sacrifices  and  fervent 
prayers. 

Meantime,  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  the 

most  sincere  respect  and  esteem,  Monseigneur, 

your  very  humble  and  obedient  servant  in  Jesus 

Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


H . ., 


I 


i^f^V 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


203 


>re  than 
appear- 
►rdinary 
id  been 
ire  piled 
»rm  this 
le  color 
k  on  the 
pge  lake 
base  of 
akes  its 

arrived. 

)rtunity, 

time,  of 

g  this, 

and  all 

fervent 

riih  the 
igneur, 
n  Jesus 


No.  XVI. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


Boat  Encampment  on  the  Columbia,  ) 
May  10th,  1846.  J 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial  : — By 
my  last  letter  to  the  distinguished  Prelate  of 
New- York,  in  w^hich  I  gave  my  different  mis- 
sionary excursions  during  1845-46  among 
several  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  you 
have  learned  that  I  had  arrived  at  the  base  of 
the  Great  Glacier,  the  source  of  the  river  du 
TroUf  w^hich  is  a  tributary  of  the  Athabaska,  or 
Elk  river.  I  will  now  give  to  your  reverence 
the  continuation  of  my  arduous  and  difficult 
journey  across  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  down  the  Columbia,  on  my  re- 
turn to  my  dear  brethren  in  Oregon. 

Towards  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  May,  we 
discovered,  at  the  distance  of  about  three  miles, 
the  approach  of  two  men  in  snow  shoes,  who 
soon  joined  us.    They  proved  to  be  the  fore- 


fi- 


'^'i*>* 


-P  1 

^        1 

•'  1    : 

t' 


i 


Vi  - 


n 


mi 


I 


It 


l\ 


204 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


runners  of  the  English  Company  which,  in  the 
spring  of  each  year,  go  from  Fort  Vancouver 
to  York  Factory,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Nelson,  near  the  fifty-eighth  degree  north 
latitude.  In  the  morning  my  little  train  was 
early  ready ;  we  proceeded,  and  after  a  march 
of  eight  miles  we  fell  in  with  the  gentlemen  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  The  time  of  our 
reunion  was  short,  but  interesting  and  joyful. 
The  great  melting  of  the  snow  had  already 
begun,  and  we  were  obliged  to  be  on  the  alert 
to  cross  in  due  time,  the  now  swelling  rapids 
and  rivers.  The  news  between  travellers,  who 
meet  in  the  mountains  is  quickly  conveyed  to 
one  another.  The  leaders  of  the  company  were 
my  old  friends,  Mr.  Ermatinger,  of  the  Honorable 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  two  distinguished 
officers  of  the  English  army.  Captains  Ward  and 
Vavasseur,  whom  I  had  the  honor  of  entertain- 
ing last  year  at  the  Great  Kalispel  lake.  Capt. 
Ward  is  the  gentleman  who  had  the  kindness  to 
take  charge  of  my  letters  for  the  States  and  for 
Europe. 

Fifteen  Indians  of  the  Kettle-Fall  tribe  ac- 
companied him.  Many  of  them  had  scaled  the 
mountains  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 

leir  backs.     The  wort 


Lght  upon 


•thy  Capt. 


^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


205 


in  the 
ncouver 
L  of  the 
;e  north 
in  was 

march 
^men  of 

of  our 

joyful, 
already 
le  alert 

rapids 
rs,  who 
eyed  to 
ly  were 
norable 
guished 
ard  and 
tertain- 
Capt. 

ness  to 
and  for 

ibe  ac- 
led  the 
)ounds 
Capt. 


f^ 


Ward  spoke  many  things  in  praise  of  them.  He 
admired  their  honesty  and  civility,  and  above 
all,  their  sincere  piety  and  great  regularity  in 
their  religious  duties ;  every  morning  and  even- 
ing, they  were  seen  retiring  a  short  distance 
from  the  camp,  to  sing  one  or  two  hymns,  and 
join  in  common  prayer.  "  I  hope,"  added  the 
Captain,  "I  shall  never  forget  the  example, 
which  these  poor,  but  good  savages,  have  given 
me.  During  the  time  that  they  were  with  me, 
I  was  much  struck  by  their  becoming  deport- 
ment, and  I  have  never  seen  more  sincere  piety 
than  they  exhibited. " 

The  gentlemen  of  the  English  Company  were 
now  at  the  end  of  their  chief  difficulties  and 
troubles.  They  gladly  threw  away  their  snow 
shoes  to  take  horses  for  four  days  ;  at  Fort  Jas- 
per they  were  to  enter  skiffs,  to  go  to  Fort 
Assiniboine,  on  the  river  Athabasca.  For  my- 
self, I  had  to  try  the  snow  shoes  for  the  first 
time  in  my  life  ;  by  means  of  them,  I  had  to  as- 
cend those  frightful  ramparts,  the  barriers  of 
snow,  which  separate  the  Atlantic  world  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  I  have,  in  my  previous 
letters,  already  told  you,  that  this  is  probably 
the  most  elevated  point  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

where  five    great  rivers  derive  their  sources, 

10 


!!■: 


t 


m.'' 


r 


S  ■! 


I* 

rri' 


J 


>i 


^! 


1 


!l    f 


)« 


|iij 


4t  *  -I . 


il 


ii 


206 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


viz. :  the  north-branch  of  the  Sascatshawin, 
flowing  into  Lake  Winnepeg,  the  Athabasca 
and  Peace  rivers,  uniting  and  flowing  into  Great 
Slave  Lake,  which  is  discharged  into  the  North- 
ern Ocean,  by  the  Mackenzie,  the  most  solitary 
of  rivers.  From  the  bosom  of  these  mountains 
the  Columbia  and  Frazer  rivers  derive  water 
from  a  thousand  fountains  and  streams. 

We  had  now  seventy  miles  to  travel  in  snow 
shoes,  in  order  to  reach  the  boat  encampment 
on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia.  We  proposed 
to  accomplish  this  in  two  days  and  a  half.  The 
most  worthy  and  excellent  Messrs.  Rowan  and 
Harriot,  whose  kindness  at  the  Rocky  Mountain 
House  and  Fort  Augustus  I  shall  ever  acknow- 
ledge, were  of  opinion,  that  it  was  absolutely 
impossible  for  me  to  accomplish  the  journey,  on 
account  of  my  heavy  mould,  and  they  wished  to 
dissuade  me  from  attempting  it.  However,  I 
thought  I  could  remedy  the  inconvenience  of 
my  surplus  stock,  by  a  vigorous  fast  of  thirty 
days,  which  I  cheerfully  underwent.  I  found 
myself  much  lighter  indeed,  and  started  off 
somewhat  encouraged,  over  snow  sixteen  feet 
deep.  We  went  in  single  file — alterni4,!.eiy  as- 
cending and  descending  —  sometimes  across 
plains  piled  up  with  avalanches  —  sometime 


1"^ 

T  v^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


207 


ihawin, 
labasca 
o  Great 
North- 
solitary 
untains 
5  water 

in  snow 
mpment 
roposed 
If.    The 
ran  and 
ountain 
icknow- 
solutely 
'ney,  on 
ished  to 
irever,  I 
ence  of 
f  thirty 
I  found 
ted   off 
en  feet 
L'jiy  as- 
across 
netime 


over  lakes  and  rapids  buried  deeply  under  the 
snow — now,  on  the  side  of  a  deep  mountain — 
then  across  a  forest  of  cypress  trees,  of  which  we 
could  only  see  the  tops.  I  cannot  tell  you  the 
number  of  my  summersets.  I  continually  found 
myself  embarrassed  by  my  snow  shoes,  or 
entangled  in  some  branch  of  a  tree.  When 
falling,  I  spread  my  arms  before  me,  as  one 
naturally  would  do,  to  break  the  violence  of  the 
fall ;  and  upon  deep  snow  the  danger  is  not 
great, — though  I  was  often  half  buried,  when  I 
required  the  assistance  of  my  companions, 
which  was  always  tendered  with  great  kindness 
and  good  humor. 

We  made  thirty  miles  the  first  day,  and  then 
made  preparations  to  encamp.  Some  pine  trees 
were  cut  down  and  stripped  of  their  branches, 
and  these  being  laid  on  the  snow,  furnished  us 
with  a  bed,  whilst  a  fire  was  lighted  on  a  floor 
of  green  logs.  To  sleep  thus — under  the  beau- 
tiful canopy  of  the  starry  heavens — in  the  midst 
of  lofty  and  steep  mountains — among  sweet 
murmuring  rills  and  roaring  torrents — may 
appear  strange  to  you,  and  to  all  lovers  of 
rooms,  rendered  comfortable  by  stoves  and 
feathers;  but  you  may  think  differently  after 
having  come  and  breathed  the  pure  air  of  the 


'%:.. 


%h 


I 


i 


V  1 


it*' 


:  t  i     » 
>  i   ,    < 


I 


l-:u 


n 
li  . 


'1 
■■i 


™" 


1  ■«' 

i 


208 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


mountains,  where  in  return,  coughs  and  colds 
are  unknown.  Come  and  make  the  trial,  and  you 
will  say  that  it  is  easy  to  forget  the  fatigues  of 
a  long  march,  and  find  contentment  and  joy 
even  upon  the  spread  branches  of  pines,  on 
which,  after  the  Indian  fashion,  we  extended 
ourselves  and  slept,  wrapped  up  in  buffalo 
robes. 

The  next  morning  we  commenced  the  dr 
scent  of  what  is  called  the  Great  Western  Slope. 
This  took  us  five  hours.  The  whole  slope  is 
covered  with  gigantic  cedars,  and  with  pine 
trees  of  different  species.  Wo  to  the  man, 
who  happens  to  have  a  heavy  body,  or  to  make 
a  false  step.  I  say  this  from  experience ;  for 
many  times  I  found  myself  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
from  the  point  of  my  departure — happy  indeed 
if,  in  the  fall,  I  did  not  violently  strike  my  head 
against  the  trunk  of  some  great  tree. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  an  obstacle  of  a 
new  kind  presented  itself.  All  the  barriers  of 
snow,  the  innumerable  banks,  which  had 
stopped  the  water  of  the  streams,  lakes,  and 
torrents,  were  broken  up  during  the  night,  and 
swelled  considerably  the  Great  Portage  river. 
It  meanders  so  remarkably  in  this  straight  valley, 
down  which  we  travelled  for  a  day  and  a  half, 


^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


209 


I  colds 
Lnd  you 
'ues  of 
nd  joy 
les,  on 
[tended 
buffalo 

the  dr 
1  Slope, 
lope  is 
th  pine 
e  man, 
o  make 
f^e  ;  for 
•ty  feet 
indeed 
ly  head 

ile  of  a 
•iers  of 
|h  had 
;s,  and 
[ht,  and 
river. 
I  valley, 
a  half. 


that  we  were  compelled  to  cross  the  said  river 
not  less  than  forty  tim^^.?,  with  the  ater  fre- 
quently up  to  our  s^  oulders.  So  great  is  its 
impetuosity,  that  we  were  obliged  mutualhr  to 
support  ourselves,  to  prevent  being  carried 
away  by  the  current.  We  marched  in  our  wet 
clothes  during  the  rest  of  our  sad  route.  The 
long  soaking,  joined  to  my  great  fatigue, 
swelled  my  limbs.  All  the  nails  of  my  feet 
came  off,  and  the  blood  stained  my  moccasins 
or  Indian  shoes.  Four  times  I  found  my 
strength  gone,  and  I  should  certainly  have 
perished  in  that  frightful  region,  if  the  courage 
and  strength  of  my  companions  had  not 
roused  and  aided  me  in  my  distress. 

We  saw  May-poles  all  along  the  old  encamp- 
ments of  the  Portage.  Each  traveller  who 
passes  there  for  the  first  time,  selects  his  own. 
A  young  Canadian,  with  much  kindness,  dedicat- 
ed one  to  me,  which  was  at  least  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  which  reared  its 
lofty  hoad  above  all  the  neighboring  trees.  Did 
I  deserve  it  ?  He  stripped  it  of  all  its  branches, 
only  leaving  at  the  top  a  little  crown ;  at  the 
bottom  my  name  and  the  date  of  the  transit 
were  written.  Moose,  reindeer,  and  mountain 
goats  are  frequently  found  in  this  region. 


• 


h  ' 


tk 


■>■■ 


.1 


-  .'i;. 


I 


m 


4  i' 


HP! 


v- 


ii^ 


210 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


We  next  passed  through  a  thick  and  moun- 
tainous forest,  where  hoary  pines  lay  pros- 
trate by  thousands — and  where  many  a  giant 
tree,  in  its  full  vigor,  had  been  levelled  to  the 
ground  by  the  raging  tempest.  On  issuing  from 
the  forest,  an  extensive  march  presented  itself, 
through  which  we  had  to  plod,  up  to  the  knees 
in  mud  and  water ;  this  trouble  was  trifling  com- 
pared to  the  past,  and  we  were  still  more  en- 
couraged at  the  sight  of  a  beautiful  and  verdant 
plain,  where  four  reindeer  were  seen  carousing, 
bouncing,  and  jumping  in  the  midst  of  plenty. 
No  doubt  they,  as  well  as  ourselves,  had  issued 
forth  from  the  snowy  and  icy  cliffs,  and  felt 
light-hearted  and  joyful  at  the  delightful  pros- 
pect of  mountain  and  plain  at  ^iiis  season  of 
the  year.  On  approaching,  a  dozen  guns  were 
at  once  levelled  against  the  innocent  and  timid 
creatures.  I  was  pleased  to  observe,  by  the 
wonderful  rapidity  with  which  they  used  their 
legs,  that  no  one  had  injured  their  noble  and 
beautiful  frames. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  day  we  arrived  at 
the  Boat  Encampment,  on  the  bank  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, at  the  mouth  of  the  Portage  river. 
Those  who  have  passed  the  Rocky  Mountains 
ree  degrees  of  north  latitude,  during 


^x#. 


t  fifty 


z^- 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


211 


1  moun- 
ly   pros- 

a  giant 
d  to  the 
ing  from 
d  itself, 
le  knees 
ing  com- 
lore  en- 
verdant 
roasing, 
'  plenty. 
,d  issued 
ind  felt 
ul  pros- 
ason  of 
as  were 
id  timid 

by  the 
ed  their 
ble  and 

rived  at 
the  Co- 
e  river, 
luntains 
during 


i  t 


the  great  melting  of  the  snows,  know  whethrr  or 
not  we  merit  the  title  of  good  travellers.  It 
required  all  my  strength  to  accomplish  it,  aid 
I  confess  that  I  would  not  dare  undertake  it 
again. 

After  so  many  labors  and  dangers,  we  deserv- 
ed a  repast.  Happily,  we  found  at  the  encamp- 
ment all  the  ingredients  that  were  necessary 
for  a  feast — a  bag  of  flour,  a  large  ham,  part  of 
a  reindeer,  cheese,  sugar,  and  tea  in  abundance, 
which  the  gentlemen  of  the  English  Company 
had  charitably  left  behind.  While  some  were 
employed  refitting  the  barge,  others  prepared 
the  dinner ;  and  in  about  an  hour  we  found  oui*- 
selves  snugly  seated  and  stretched  out  around 
the  kettles  and  roasts,  laughing  and  joking 
about  the  summersets  on  the  mountains,  and 
the  accidents  on  the  Portage.  I  need  not  tell 
you,  that  they  described  me  as  the  most  clii][nsy 
and  awkward  traveller  in  the  bani     ' 

Three  beautiful  rivers  unite  at  this  place: 
the  Columbia,  coming  from  the  south-east— the 
Portage  river,  from  the  north-east,  and  the 
Canoe  river  from  the  north-west.  We  were 
surrounded  by  a  great  number  of  magnificent 
mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  and 
rising    from   twelve    to   sixteen  thousand  feet 


II 


:iElv 


,r?i 


•r: 


^^ 


"ji . 


212 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


fi 


above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  The  Hooker  and 
the  Brown  are  the  highest,  the  latter  measuring 
sixteen  thousand  feet. 

Very  Rev.  and  dear  Father  Provincial,  your 
humble  brother  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


1^. 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


213 


cer  and 
isuring 

1,  your 

S.J. 


No.  XVll. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


St.  Paul's  Station,  near  Colville,  > 
May,  29th,  1846.  J 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial — The 
Columbia  at  the  Boat  Encampment  is  3,600  fet  t 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Having  finished  our 
meal,  we  launched  the  barge  and  rapidly  de- 
scended the  river,  which  was  now  swollen  many 
feet  above  its  usual  level.  Did  not  more  serious 
avocations  call  him  away,  an  admirer  of 
Nature  would  willingly  linger  in  a  region  like 
this.  The  volcanic  and  basaltic  islands — the 
range  of  picturesque  mountains,  whose  bases 
came  to  bathe  in  the  river,  whilst  their  summits 
seemed  to  be  struggling,  in  the  giant  efforts  of 
the  avalanche,  to  throw  off  the  winding-sheet 
of  winter,  in  order  to  give  place  to  the  new  and 
beautiful  verdure  ot  the  month  of  May,  with  its 
smiling    and     varied    flowers  —  the    thousand 

fountains  which  we  could  at  one  view  behold, 

10* 


•^^.. 


214 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


r^ 


w  ■ 


f  1 

I : 

(I- 


i  ■>'   ' 


MH 


ii'? 


If  t.- 

1, 

1  i 

}   4 

'    n   ' 

ir 

HI 

1 

M 

I 

/ 


leaping  out  with  soothing  music  from  the  shelves 
of  perpendicular  rocks  bordering  the  river — all 
lent  their  aid  to  increase  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  of  Nature,  w^hich,  in  this  region  of  the 
Columbia,  seems  to  have  put  forth  all  her  energy 
to  display  her  grandeur  and  magnificence. 

After  some  hours  of  descent  we  came  to 
Martin's  rapid,  where  a  Canadian,  so  called, 
together  with  his  son,  found  a  watery  grave. 
Its  roar  is  deafening,  and  the  agitation  of  the 
water  resembles  that  of  a  raging  sea-storm. 
The  whole  bed  of  the  river  is  here  strewed  with 
immense  fragments  of  rocks.  Guided  by  an 
expert  Iroquois  pilot,  and  aided  with  ten  oars, 
the  boat  darted  over  its  boisterous  surface, 
dancing-like  and  leaping  from  wave  to .  wave , 
with  the  rapidity  of  lightning. 

At  sunset  we  were  at  the  Dalle  of  the  Dead. 
(Dalle  is  an  old  French  word,  meaning  a  trough, 
and  the  name  is  given  by  the  Canadian  voya- 
geurs  to  all  contracted  running  waters,  hemmed 
in  by  walls  of  rocks.)  Here,  in  1838,  twelve 
unfortunate  travellers  were  buried  in  the  river. 
The  waters  are  compressed  betv/een  a  range  of 
perpendicular  rocks,  presenting  innumerable 
crags,  fissures  and  cliffs,  through  which  the 
Columbia    leaps   with    irrestible    impetuosity, 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


215 


le  shelves 
river — all 
ty  of  the 
on  of  the 
er  energy 
ice. 
came    to 

0  called, 
y  grave, 
n  of  the 
3a-storm. 
ived  with 

1  by  an 
ten  oars, 

surface, 
o ,  wave , 

he  Dead, 
a  trough, 
in  voya- 
hemmed 
,  twelve 
le  river, 
range  of 
merable 
lich  the 
etuosity, 


«:f| 


^' 


forming,  as  it  dashes  along,  frightful  whirl- 
pools, where  every  passing  object  is  swallowed 
and  disappears.  By  means  of  two  long  ropes 
we  dropped  down  our  boat  through  the  Dalle, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  at  its  outlet. 

On  the  11th  we  continued  our  route  at  early 
dawn — the  mountain  scenery  was  hidden  from 
our  view  wrapped  up  in  dense  mist  and  fog, 
which  were  seen  ascending  in  dense  pillars, 
adding  to  the  forming  clouds  above,  till  the 
whole  sky  was  overcast.  Occasionally,  as  if 
to  break  upon  the  unusual  monotony,  would  a 
fallow  or  reindeer  be  observed  on  the  margin  of 
the  stream,  or  peeping  with  uplifted  ears  from  a 
thicket,  as  the  strange  sound  of  oars,  or  the 
Canadian  song,  came  stealing  louder  and 
louder  upon  them  in  their  quiet  abode: — off  they 
bounded,  affrighted  at  the  sight  of  men,  so  hate- 
ful, it  appears,  to  the  wild  and  timid  creatures 
of  the  forest.  In  the  evening  we  encamped  at 
the  entrance  of  the  Upper  Lake. 

This  beautiful  sheet  of  crystalline  water, 
whilst  the  rising  sun  was  tinting  the  tops  of  a 
thousand  hills  around,  came  most  refreshing 
to  the  eye.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  by 
four  or  five  wide.  Its  borders  are  embellished 
by  overhanging  precipices  and  majestic  peaks, 


h 


iia 


I*    J'    " 


•     * 


I' 


!  1  Ulif 


!lii 


Ml 


iH; 


1 


Mi 


216 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


which,  rearing  their  white  heads  above  the 
clouds,  look  down  like  venerable  monarchs  of 
the  desert  upon  the  great  forests  of  pines  and 
cedar  surrounding  the  lake.  The  two  highest 
peaks  are  called  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul. 

Twenty  Indian  families,  belonging  to  the 
station  of  St.  Peter,  were  found  encamped  on 
the  borders  of  the  lake.  I  gladly  accepted  their 
invitation  to  visit  them.  It  was  the  meeting  of 
a  father  with  his  children,  after  ten  months  of 
absence  and  dangers.  I  dare  say  the  joy  was 
mutually  sincere.  The  greater  part  of  the  tribe 
had  been  converted  during  the  past  year,  at 
Kettle  Falls.  These  families  were  absent  at 
that  time.  I  passed,  therefore,  several  days 
among  them,  to  instruct  them  in  the  duties  and 
practices  of  religion.  They  then  received  bap- 
tism, with  all  the  marks  of  sincere  piety  and 
gratitude.  Gregory,  the  name  of  their  chief, 
who  had  not  ceased  to  exhort  his  people  by 
word  and  example,  had  the  happiness  to  receive 
baptism  in  1838,  from  the  hands  of  the  Rev. 
Mr.,  now  Archbishop,  Blanchet.  The  worthy 
and  respectable  chief  was  now  at  the  hjlght  of 
his  joy,  in  seeing  at  last  all  his  children  brought 
under  the  standard  of  Jesus  Christ.  The  tribe 
of  these  lake  Indians  are  a  part  of  the  Kettle 


*'W'' 


1 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


217 


ve  the 
rchs  of 
les  and 
highest 

to  the  ^ 
ped  on 
3d  their 
3ting  of 
nths  of *n 
oy  was 
le  tribe 
ear,  at 
sent  at 
l1  days 
ies  and 

^  r 

d  bap-    - 
ty  and 

chief, 
pie  by 
eceive 
e  Rev. 
worthy 
ght  of 
rought 

tribe 
Kettle 


•t     *, 


f 


Fall  nation.  Ihey  are  very  poor,  and  subsist 
principally  on  fish  and  wild  roots.  As  soon  as 
we  shall  have  more  means  at  our  disposal,  we 
will  supply  them  with  implements  of  husbandry 
and  with  various  seeds  and  roots,  which  I  have 
no  doubt,  will  thrive  well  in  their  country  ;  this 
will  be  a  great  assistance  to  these  destitute 
people.  The  second  lake  is  about  six  miles 
distant  from  the  first.  It  is  of  about  the  same 
*  length,  but  less  wide.  We  passed  under  a  per- 
pendicular rock,  where  we  beheld  an  innumera- 
ble number  of  arrows  sticking  out  of  the  fis- 
sures. The  Indians,  when  they  ascend  the  lake, 
have  a  custom  of  lodging  each  an  arrow  into 
these  crevices.  The  origin  and  cause  of  the 
custom  is  unknown  to  me.  t ' 

The  mouth  of  the  river  McGilvray  or  Flat- 
Bow,  is  near  the  outlet  of  the  Lower  Lake.  It 
presents  a  beautiful  situation  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a  future  Reduction  or  Mission,  and  I 
have  already  marked  out  a  site  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  church.  About  twenty  miles  lower, 
we  passed  the  Flat-Head  or  Clark's  river,  which 
contril^tes  largely  to  the  Columbia.  These 
two  beautiful  rivers  derive  a  great  portion  of 
their  waters  from  the  same  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  from  which  a  great  number  of  the 


218 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


il!i! 


HI 


m\ 


forks  of  the  south  branch  of  the  Sascatshawin 
and  of  the  Missouri  are  supplied.  For  a  dis- 
tance of  about  thirty  miles  from  their  junction 
with  the  Columbia,  are  they  obstructed  by  in- 
surmountable falls  and  rapids.  Among  the 
many  lakes  connected  with  the  Flat-Head  river, 
three  are  very  conspicuous,  and  measure  from 
thirty  to  forty  miles  in  length,  and  from  four  to 
six  in  width.  The  Flat- Head  lake  receives  a 
broad  and  beautiful  stream,  extending  upwards 
of  a  hundred  miles  in  a  north-western  direction, 
through  a  most  delightful  valley,  and  is  sup- 
plied by  considerable  torrents,  coming  from  a 
great  cluster  of  mountains,  connected  imme- 
diately with  the  main  chain,  in  which  a  great 
number  of  lakes  lie  imbedded.  Clark's  fork 
passed  through  Lake  Kalispel.  Lake  Roothaan 
is  situated  in  the  Pend-d*oreille  and  Flat-Bow 
mountains,  and  discharges  itself  by  the  Black- 
gown  river  into  the  Clark,  twenty  miles  below 
the  Kalispel  Lake.  The  St.  Mary's,  or  Bitter- 
root  river,  from  the  south-east,  is  the  greatest 
tributary  of  Clark's  fork,  and  the  chief  residence 
of  the  Flat-Heads.  All  these  waters  tontain 
an  abundance  of  fish,  especially  trout.  The 
geography  of  the  head  of  Clark's  Fork,  is  little 
known,  as  appears  from  the  maps,  the  south- 


I 


,t  I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


219 


shawin 

r  a  dis- 

unction 

I  by  in- 

ng    the 

id  river, 

pe  from 

four  to 

eives  a 

ipwards 

Lrection, 

is  sup- 

from  a 

imme- 
a  great 
{*s  fork 
oothaan 
lat-Bow 

Black- 
s  below 
•  Bitter- 
greatest 

sidence 
iontain 
t.     The 

is  little 

south- 


4 


east  branch  on  the  Saint  Mary's  river  being 
only  a  small  tributary  compared  to  the  main 
stream,  coming  from  the  north-west,  and  passing 
threiugh  the  great  Flat-Head  lake. 

Our  barge  was  in  great  danger  in  the  Dalle, 
some  miles  above  Colville.  I  had  left  it,  to  go 
on  foot,  to  avoid  the  dangerous  passage.  The 
young  boatmen,  notwithstanding  my  remon- 
strances, thought  they  could  pass  in  safety.  A 
whirlpool  suddenly  arrested  their  course,  and 
threatened  to  bury  them  beneath  its  angry 
waters.  Their  redoubled  efforts  proved  in- 
effectual— I  saw  them  borne  on  with  an  irre- 
sistible force  to  the  engulfing  centre — the  bow 
of  the  boat  descended  already  into  the  abyss 
and  filled  !  I  was  on  my  knees  upon  the  rock 
which  overhung  this  frightful  spectacle,  sur- 
rounded by  several  Indians — we  implored  the 
aid  of  Heaven  in  favor  of  our  poor  comrades — 
they  seemed  to  be  evidently  lost — when  the 
whirlpool  filled,  and  threw  them  from  its  bosom, 
as  if  reluctantly  yielding  up  the  prey  which  it 
had  so  tenaciously  held.  We  all  gave  heartfelt 
thanks  to  Almighty  God  for  having  delivered 
them  from  a  danger  so  imminent. 

From  the  outlet  of  the  Lower  Lake  of  the 
Columbia  to  Fort  Colville,  the  aspect  of  the 


•11' 


IB    t" 


1 


"I 
I"" 


f     1 


}        ' 


fl!lj 


i;P 


•■ ! 

ill 


I  ! 


||: 


220 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


country  is  highly  picturesque  and  interesting. 
The  whole  section,  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
is  well  supplied  with  rivulets  and  streams. 
The  soil  is  rather  light,  but  it  affords  fine  graz- 
ing; the  mountains  are  not  high — the  forests 
are  open — the  bottom  lands  present  here  and 
there  beautiful  groves — the  surface  of  the  soil 
yields  an  abundant  and  luxuriant  grass. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  of  May  I  ar- 
rived at  Fort  Colville.  I  found  the  nation  of 
Shuyelphi  or  Kettle  Fall  already  baptized  by  the 
Rev.  Father  Hoecken,  who  had  continued  to 
instruct  them  after  my  departure  in  the  month 
of  August  of  last  year.  They  had  built,  to  my 
great  surprise,  a  small  frame  church,  so  much 
the  more  beautiful  and  agreeable  to  my  eyes, 
as  being  their  first  attempt  at  architecture,  and 
the  exclusive  work  of  the  Indians.  With  a 
laudable  pride  they  conducted  me,  as  in  triumph, 
to  the  humble  and  new  temple  of  the  Lord, 
and  in  favor  of  that  good  people,  and  for  their 
perseverance  in  the  faith,  I  there  offered  the 
august  Sacrifice  of  the  Altar. 

The  arrival  of  the  good  Father  Nobili  at 
Colville  filled  us  with  great  joy  and  consolation. 
He  had  made  missionary  excursions  over  the 
greatest  portion  of  New   Caledonia.      Every- 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


221 


?sting. 
river, 
reams. 
!  graz- 
forests 
e  and 
tie  soil 

jr  I  ar- 

tion  of 

by  the 

aed   to 

month 

to  my 

much 

y  eyes, 

e,  and 

ith  a 

iumph, 

Lord, 

r  their 

red  the 

)ili  at 
)lation. 
rev  the 
Every- 


;;■ 


where  the  Indian  tribes  received  him  with  open 
arms,  and  took  great  care  to  bring  their  little 
children  to  be  baptized.  I  add  to  this  an  ex- 
tract from  his  letter,  which  will  give  you  an 
outline  of  his  journey  and  the  number  of  bap- 
tisms he  performed.  Having  made  a  retreat  of 
eight  days  in  the  Reduction  of  St.  Ignatius,  and 
after  a  month  of  repose  and  preparation  for  a 
second  expedition,  he  returned  with  renewed 
zeal  and  fervor  to  his  dear  Caledonians,  accom- 
panied by  several  laborers,  and  supplied  with  a 
dozen  horses,  loaded  with  implements  of  agri- 
culture and  carpentry. 

As  a  token  of  my  sincere  gratitude,  and  to 
let  you  know  that  we  have  friends  and  bene- 
factors in  Oregon,  I  must  here  state  to  your 
Reverence,  that  Father  Nobili  and  myself  were 
most  hospitably  entertained  during  our  stay  at 
Fort  Colville.  The  kindness  of  the  Honorable 
Mr.  Lewes  and  family  I  shall  never  forget.  The 
attention  shown  Father  Nobili,  in  the  trading 
posts  of  New  Caledonia  is  beyond  all  praise.  Tru- 
ly and  deservedly  has  Commodore  Wilkes  stated, 
"That  the  liberality  and  hospitality  of  all  the 
gentlemen  of  the  Honorable  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany are  proverbial."  Indeed,  we  experience 
this  and  participate  of  it  on  all  occasions. 


*• 


\i 


222 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


I  remain,  with  profound  respect  and  esteem, 
Very  Rev.  and  dear  Father,  your  humble  and 
obedient  servant, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


W4  lil 


s-i 


H  I 


;|. 


>t 


lifk- 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


223 


id  esteem, 
mble  and 

r,  s.  J. 


No.  XVIII. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 

EXTRACT  FROM  FATHER  NOBILl's  LETTER. 


Fort  Colville,  June  Ist,  1846. 

Rev.  Father, — While  I  remained  at  Fort  Van- 
couver, I  baptized  upwards  of  sixty  persons, 
during  a  dangerous  sickness  which  raged  in  the 
country.  The  majority  of  those  who  received 
baptism,  died  with  all  the  marks  of  sincere 
conversion.  On  the  27th  of  July,  I  baptized 
nine  children  at  Fort  Okinagane — ^the  children 
of  the  chief  of  the  Sioushwaps  were  of  the 
number.  He  appeared  full  of  joy  at  seeing  a 
Black-gown  direct  his  course  towards  their 
country.  On  the  29th  I  left  Okinagane,  and 
followed  the  company.  Every  night  I  prayed 
with  the  whites  and  Indians.  On  the  road  three 
old  men  came  to  me|  and  earnestly  begged  me 
to  "  take  pity  on  them,  and  prepare  them  far 
heaven  /"  Having  instructed  them  in  the  duties 
and  principles  of  religion,  and  the  necessity  of 
baptism,  I  administered  to  them,  and  to  forty- 


i 


{i?- 


;».  > 


^p 


224 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


k 


i 


i  i 


i ) 


t  I 


six  children  of  the  same  tribe,  what  seemed  to 
be  the  height  of  their  desires,  the  holy  Sacra- 
ment of  regeneration. 

On  the  11th  of  August,  a  tribe  of  Indians, 
residing  about  the  Upper  Lake  on  Thompson's 
River,  came  to  meet  me.  They  exhibited  to- 
wards me  all  the  marks  of  sincere  and  filial 
attachment.  They  followed  me  several  days  to 
hear  my  instructions,  and  only  departed  after 
having  exacted  a  promise  that  I  would  return 
in  the  course  of  the  following  autumn  or  winter, 
and  make  known  to  them  the  glad  tidings  of 
salvation. 

At  the  Fort  of  the  Sioushwaps,  I  received  a 
visit  from  all  the  chiefs,  who  congratulated  me 
on  my  happy  arrival  amongst  them.  They 
raised  a  great  cabin  to  serv**.  as  a  church,  and 
as  a  place  to  teach  them  during  my  stay.  I 
baptized  twelve  of  their  chilaren.  I  was  obliged, 
when  the  Salmon  fishing  commenced,  to  sepa- 
rate for  some  months  from  these  dear  Indians, 
and  continue  my  route  to  New  Caledonia. 

I  arrived  at  Fort  Alexandria  on  the  25th. 
All  the  tribes  I  met  manifested  towards  me  the 
same  emotions  of  joy  and  friendship.  To  my 
surprise  I  found  at  the  Fort  a  frame  church.  I 
returned  in  the  fall  and  remained  there  a  month, 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


22i 


;emed  to 
y  Sacra- 
Indians, 
lompson's 
ibited  to- 
and  filial 
i[  days  to 
rted  after 
lid  return 
or  winter, 
tidings  of 

eceived  a 
iilated  me 
tn.  They 
urcli,  and 
y  stay.  I 
as  obliged, 
,  to  sepa- 
ir  Indians, 
mia. 

the  25th. 
ds  me  the 
>.  To  my 
church.  I 
e  a  month, 


engaged  in  all  the  exercises  of  our  holy  minis- 
try. The  Canadians  performed  their  religious 
duties — I  joined  several  in  marriage,  and  ad- 
ministered to  many  the  Holy  Communion/ 
Twenty- four  children  and  forty-seven  adults 
received  baptism. 

On  the  2d  of  September,  I  ascended  the  river 
Frazer,  and  after  a  dangerous  trip,  arrived,  on 
the  12th,  at  Fort  George  ;  where  the  same  joy 
and  affection  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  attended 
me.  Fifty  Indians  had  come  down  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  patiently  awaited  my 
arrival  for  nineteen  days,  in  order  to  have  the 
consolation  of  witnessing  the  ceremony  of  bap- 
tism. I  baptized  twelve  of  their  children,  and 
twenty-seven  others,  of  whom  six  were  adults 
advanced  in  age.  I  performed  there  the  cere- 
monies of  the  planting  of  the  Cross. 

On  the  14th,  the  Feast  of  the  Exaltation  of 
the  Holy  Cross,  I  ascended  the  river  Nesqually, 
and  on  the  24th,  arrived  at  the  Fort  of  Lake 
Stuart.  I  spent  eleven  days  in  giving  instruc- 
tions to  the  Indians,  and  had  the  happiness  of 
abolishing  the  custom  of  burning  the  dead,  and 
that  of  inflicting  torments  upon  the  bodies  of 
the  surviving  wives  or  husbands.  They  so- 
lemnly renounced  all  their  juggling  and  idola- 


>^ 


^^ 


•  f 


Is      ,* 


!  I       1 


I    J( 


;;■:! 


ii 


t--' 


!    n 


.* 


!  _ 
"ii 


J 


226 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


tries.  Their  great  medicine-hall,  where  they 
used  to  practise  their  superstitious  rites,  was 
changed  into  a  church.  It  was  blessed  and  dedi- 
cated to  God  under  the  patronage  of  St.  Francis 
Xavier.  The  planting  of  the  Cross  was 
solemnly  performed  with  all  the  ceremonies 
proper  to  such  occasions.  Sixteen  children  and 
five  old  men  received  baptism. 

The  24th  Oct.,  I  visited  the  village  of  the 
Chilcotins.  This  mission  lasted  twelve  days, 
during  which  time  I  baptized  eighteen  children 
and  twenty-four  adults,  and  performed  eight  mar- 
riages. I  blessed  here  the  first  cemetery,  and 
buried,  with  all  the  ceremonies  of  the  ritual,  an 
Indian  woman,  the  first  converted  to  Christianity. 
I  next  visited  two  other  villages  of  the  same  tribe 
— in  the  first  I  baptized  twenty  persons,  of  whom 
three  were  adults.  In  the  second,  two  chiefs  with 
thirty  of  their  nation  received  baptism,  and  two 
were  united  in  matrimony.  Poligamy  prevailed 
everywhere,  and  everywhere  I  succeeded  in 
abolishing  it.  In  a  neighboring  tribe  I  bap- 
tized fifly-seven  persons,  of  whom  thirty-one 
were  adults.     I  also  celebrated  nine  marriages. 

After  my  return  to  the  Sioushwaps,  I  bap- 
tized forty-one  persons,  of  whom  eleven  were 
adults.    I  visited  h\e  more  villages  among  the 


1  N 

I,' 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


227 


here  they 
rites,  was 
.  and  dedi- 
5t.  Francis 
ross  was 
eremonies 
ildren  and 

ige  of  the 
elve  days, 
in  children 
eight  mar- 
letery,  and 
3  ritual,  an 
hristianity. 
same  tribe 
s,  of  whom 
chiefs  with 
n,  and  two 
r  prevailed 
seeded    in 
3e  I  bap- 
thirty-one 
narriages. 
ps,  I  bap- 
even  were 
imong  the 


neighboring  tribes,  amongst  whom  I  baptized 
about  two  hundred  persons.  I  performed  the 
ceremony  of  the  planting  of  the  Cross,  in  eight 
different  places,  and  founded  four  frame  churches 
which  were  constructed  by  the  savages. 

On  an  average,  each  village  or  tribe  consists 
of  about  two  hundred  so.uls. 
^         In  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Alexandria  the 
number  of  souls  amounts  to  1255 

About  Fort  George,  343 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Frazer's  Lake,  258 

Stuart's  Lake,  211 

McLeod's  Lake,  80 

FortRabine,  1190 

Bear  Lake,  801 


it 


«( 


<( 


it 


«« 


M 


(« 


« 


Total  number  of  souls,  4138 

Population  on  Thompson's  river,  or  on  the 
land  of  the  Sioushwaps  or  Atnass. 
The  number  of  Sioushwaps,  so  called,  is        583 
"         of  Okinaganes,  685 

Population  on  the  North  Branch,  525 

on  Lake  Superior,  322 

at  the  Fountain  of  Frazer  Lake,  1 127 
Number  of  Knife  Indians,  1530 


a 


t( 


Total  number  of  souls,  4772 

I  remain,  reverend  Father,  yours,  &c., 

J.  NOBILI,  S.  J. 


■1^,' 


.''Ofti 


u 


\r 


'f.'^l 


»  r, 


in 


1)1 


I    ii. 


228 


OREGON      MISSIONS, 


^--m^V 


No.  XIX. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


Fort  Walla-Walla,  ) 

July  18th,  1846.  J 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial, — I 
accepted  the  kind  offer  of  Mr.  Lewes,  and  took 
my  seat  in  one  of  the  barges  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  on  its  way  to  Fort  Vancouver.  We 
stopped  at  Fort  Okinagane,  where  I  adminis- 
tered baptism  to  forty-three  persons,  chiefly  chil- 
dren. Our  passage  was  very  pleasant  and 
agreeable.  I  have  little  to  add  to  what  I  have 
already  stated  in  my  preceding  letters  of  last 
year,  respecting  our  residence  at  Saint  Francis 
Xavier*s,  and  the  other  Catholic  establishments 
in  the  Willamette  Valley  and  vicinity.  St.  James' 
Church  at  Vancouver,  St.  John's  in  Oregon 
City,  St.  Mary's  at  the  Convent,  and  St.  Francis 
Xavier's  chapel  have  all  been  opened  for  divine 
service.  The  new  church  among  the  Cana- 
dians, and  the  Cathedral,  were  fast  progressing. 
The  number  of  children  in  the  Sisters*  school 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


229 


''alia, 
3th,  1846 


.1 


►VINCIAL, — ^I 

IS,  and  took 
ludson  Bay 
uver.     We 
I  adminis- 
hiefly  chil- 
asant   and 
hat  I  have 
ters  of  last 
iiit  Francis 
blishments 
St.  James* 
in  Oregon 
St.  Francis 
for  divine 
the  Cana- 
rogressing. 
ters*  school 


had  greatly  increased,  and  a  change  for  the  bet- 
ter already  taken  place  among  the  little  metis 
girls  confided  to  their  care.     Sister  Loyola,  the 
Superior,  appeared  delighted  with  their  present 
conduct.     Two  Protestant  families,  among  the 
most  respectable  in  Oregon,  Dr.  Long  and  lady 
and  Judge  Burnet  and  family,  were  received 
into  the  bosom  of  the  Catholic  Church,  in  Oregon 
City.      Archbishop  Blanchet    and   companions 
were   anxiously  expected  ;  may  the  Lord  speed 
them,  and  grant  them  a  happy  passage  on  the 
boisterous  ocean — a  route  which,   it    appears, 
they  have  selected  in  order  to  reach  their  des- 
tined new  homes.     O,  how  large  is  the  vine- 
yard ! — the  Island  of  Vancouver  alone  contains 
upwards  of  twenty  thousand  Indians,  ready  to 
receive    our   missionaries — and    an    extensive 
field  awaits  the  laborers,  among  the  numerous 
nations  of  the  north-west  coast.    The  visits  paid 
to  these    various   tribes,   by    the    Black-gowns^ 
and  the  affection  and  kindness  with  which  they 
are  received  by  the  Indians,  leave  little  doubt 
of  the  ultimate  success  of  their  holy  enterprise. 
In  order  to  return  to  the  upper  Missions,  I 
started   in   the   beginning   of  July,   from  Fort 
Vancouver,  two  days  after  the  brigade  of  the 

Hudson  Bay  Company  had  left   it.     An  acci- 

11 


fi 


•t-      n 


■'..'J 


I 


ii  ! 


f      I 


n 


280 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


dent  by  the  way,  fortunately  not  attended  with 
more  serious  consequences,  here  occurred  to  me. 
A  powder-horn  exploded  near  me  accidentally, 
scorching  me  severely,  and  completely  stripping 
the  skin  from  my  nose,  cheeks  and  lips — leav- 
ing me  to  all  appearance,  after  all  my  travels, 
a  raw-faced  mountaineer.     I  procured  an  In- 

• 

dian  canoe,  well-mounted,  and  soon  found  my- 
self during  a  thunder  storm,  in  the  great  gap 
of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  through  which  the 
mighty  Columbia  winds  its  way.  The  sublime 
and  the  romantic  appear  to  have  made  a  grand 
effort  for  a  magnificent  display  in  this  spot.  On 
both  sides  of  the  stream  perpendicular  walls  of 
rock  rise  in  majestic  boldness — small  rills  and 
rivulets,  innumerable  crystalline  streams  pursue 
their  way  ;  murmuring  down  on  the  steep  de- 
clivities, they  rush  and  leap  from  cascade  to 
cascade,  after  a  thousand  gambols,  adding,  at 
last,  their  foaming  tribute  to  the  turbulent  and 
powerful  stream.  The  imposing  mass  of  waters 
has  here  forced  its  way  between  a  chain  of 
volcanic,  towering  mountains,  advancing  head- 
long with  an  irresistible  impetuosity,  over  rocky 
reefs,  and  prostrate  ruins,  for  a  distance  of 
about  four  miles ;  forming  the  dangerous,  and 
indeed    the  last    remarkable    obstruction — the 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


231 


ided  with 
red  to  me. 
jidentally, 
r  stripping 
ips — leav- 
ly  travels, 
•ed  an  In- 

• 

found  my- 
great  gap 
which  the 
he  sublime 
de  a  grand 
Ls  spot.   On 
ar  walls  of 
i\\  rills  and 
ams  pursue 
steep  de- 
cascade  to 
adding,  at 
•bulent  and 
|s  of  waters 
a  chain  of 
cing  head- 
over  rocky 
istance   of 
;erous,  and 
ction — the 


« 


great  cascades  of  the  Columbia.  There  is  an 
interesting,  and  very  plausible  Indian  account 
of  the  formation  of  these  far-famed  cascades, 
on  which  so  much  has  been  said  and  written,  so 
many  conjectures  rop^arding  earth-slides,  sinks, 
or  swells,  caused  by  subterraneous  volcanic 
agents.  *' Our  grandfathers,"  said  an  Indian 
to  me,  "remember  the  time  when  the  waters 
passed  here  quietly,  and  without  obstruction, 
under  a  long  range  of  towering  and  projecting 
rocks,  which,  unable  to  bear  their  weight  any 
longer,  crumbled  down,  thus  stopping  up  and 
raising  the  bed  of  the  river  ;  here  it  overflowed 

r  great  forests  of  cedar  and  pine,  which  are 
still  to  be  seen  above  the  cascades."  Indeed, 
the  traveller  beholds  with  astonishment,  a  great 
number  of  huge  trunks  of  trees,  still  standing 
upright  in  water  about  twenty  feet  deep.  No 
person,  in  my  opinion,  can  from  a  just  idea  of 
the  cause  that  produced  these  remarkable 
changes,  without  admitting  the  Indian  nar- 
rative. 

My  baggage  was  soon  conveyed  to  the  up- 
per end  of  the  portage.  The  distance  from 
the  cascades  to  the  dalles  is  about  forty-five 
miles,  and  is  without  any  obstacle.  The  moun- 
tain scenery  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  with  its 


'IS' 


■^ 


'.'in 


'  I.  '-■  - 


*t 


I      :!l 


232 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


clusters  of  shrubs,  cedars,  and  pines,  is  truly 
delightful,  heightened  occasionally  by  the  sight 
of  the  snow-capped  Mounts  Hood  and  St. 
Helena.  A  favorable  breeze  made  us  unfurl 
two  blankets  for  the  want  of  sails,  and  as  we 
were  gliding  rapidly  up  the  stream,  we  observed 
several  islands  of  volcanic  formation,  where  the 
Indians  deposit  their  dead  on  scaffolds,  or  in  little 
huts  made  of  pieces  of  split  cedar,  frequently 
covered  with  mats  and  boards ;  great  care  is 
taken  to  hinder  birds  of  prey,  or  the  rapacious 
wolves,  with  their  hyena  stomachs  and  plun- 
dering propensities,  from  breaking  in  upon  the 
abode  of  the  dead. 

The  third  day  we  arrived  at  the  great  dalles. 
Indians  flock  thither  from  different  quarters  of 
the  interior,  to  attend,  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
to  the  salmon  fisheries.  This  is  their  glorious 
time  for  rejoicing,  gambling,  and  feasting  ;  the 
long  lent  is  passed  ;  they  have  at  last  assembled 
in  the  midst  of  abundance — all  that  the  eye  can 
see,  or  the  nose  smell,  is  fish,  and  nothing  but 
fish.  Piles  of  them  are  lying  everywhere  on 
the  rocks,  the  Indian  huts  abound  with  them, 
and  the  dogs  are  dragging  and  fighting  ovei  the 
offal  in  all  directions.  Not  less  than  eight 
hundred  Indians  were  present  on  this  occasion. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


2SS 


is  truly 
[le  sight 
and   St. 
5  unfurl 
I  as  we 
)bserved 
here  the 
r  in  little 
equently 
care  is 
apacious 
,nd  plun- 
upon  the 

at  dalles, 
arters  of 
the  year, 
glorious 
ing ;  the 
ssembled 
eye  can 
hing  but 
here  on 
th  them, 
ovei  the 
n   eight 
ccasiqn, 


One  who  has  seen  them  five  years  ago,  poor  and 
almost  naked,  and  who  beholds  then  now,  dis- 
covers with  a  peculiar  feeling  of  humor  and 
delight,  the  entire  change  in  their  external  ap- 
pearance, a  complete  metamorphosis,  as  Ovid 
would  say.  Their  dresses  are  of  the  most  gro- 
tesque character,  regardless  alike  of  their  ap- 
propriateness to  sex  or  condition  of  life.  A 
masquerade  character,  as  we  understand  it,  will 
at  least  exhibit  unity  of  design  ;  but  this  Indian 
masquerade  sets  all  unities  at  defiance.  A 
stout,  swarthy  Indian,  steps  proudly  by  you,  ap- 
parently conscious  of  the  dignity  conferred  on 
him  by  his  new  acquisitions — a  roundabout 
much  too  small  for  him,  a  pair  of  tights  with 
straps,  with  an  intervening  space  showing  the 
absence  of  linen,  form  his  body  dress,  while  an 
old  fashioned  lady's  night-cap  with  large  frills, 
and  if  he  be  rich  enough,  a  sailor's  glazed  cap 
carefully  balanced  above  it,  constitute  his  head 
dress  ;  a  pair,  and  sometimes  half  a  pair  of 
brogans,  complete  the  ludicrous  appearance  of 
this  Indian  dandy.  Some  appear  parading  thro' 
the  camp  in  the  full  dress  of  a  wagoner,  others 
in  a  mixture  composed  of  the  sailor's,  the  wag- 
oner s,  and  the  lawyer's,  arranged  according  to 
fancy  ;  but  the  favorite  article  of  ornamental 


^,^?. 


n 


\  ■■''' 


^; 


v;, 


I H  r>-,i 


'♦>  '; 


if-^ 


!:'  i 


'!') 


i 


•^34 


O  R  E  < ;  (J  iV       MISSIONS. 


dress  appears  to  be  the  night-cap  with  its  large 
frills ;  some  again  with  only  one  article  of  dress. 
I  have  seen  an  old  Indian  showing  off  a  pair  of 
boots  to  the  best  advantage,  as  they  formed  the 
only  article  of  his  wardrobe  then  on  his  person. 
Indian  squaws  are  seen  attired  in  long  calico 
gowns,  little  improved  by  the  copious  addition  of 
fish  oil,  with  which  the  taste  or  negligence  of  the 
present  owners  besmeared  them  ;  occasionally, 
if  they  can  afford  it,  to  this  is  superadded  a  vest, 
a  flannel  or  great-coat.  The  dalles  at  present, 
form  a  kind  of  masquerading  thoroughfare,  where 
emigrants  and  Indians  meet,  it  appears,  for  the 
purpose  of  affording  mutual  aid.  When  the 
Oregon  emigrants  arrive  here,  they  are  general- 
ly in  want  of  provisions,  horses,  canoes,  and 
guides — these  wants  the  Indians  supply,  receiv- 
ing in  exchange  the  old  travelling  clothes  of  the 
doctors,  lawyers,  farmers,  Germans,  Frenchmen, 
Spaniards,  &c.,  that  pass  through  the  dalles  on 
their  westward  route.  Hence  the  motley  col- 
lection of  pants,  coats,  boots,  of  every  form  and 
size,  comforters,  caps  and  hats  of  every  fashion. 
Here  I  overtook  Messrs.  Lewes  and  Manson, 
who  kindly  offered  me  a  place  in  one  of  the 
barges  of  the  Company,  which  I  gladly  accepted 
— the  transportation  of  their  boats  and  goods 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


235 


ts  large 
of  dress. 
,  pair  of 
med  the 
5  person. 
^   calico 
Idition  of 
ce  of  the 
Lsionally, 
;d  a  vest, 
t  present, 
re,  where 
s,  for  the 
Ihen  the 
gene  r  al- 
locs, and 
f,  receiv- 
les  of  the 
nchmen, 
alles  on 
tley  col- 
form  and 
fashion. 
Manson, 
e  of  the 
accepted 
nd  goods 


had  taken  up  a  whole  day.  From  the  great 
dalles  to  the  upper  sources  of  the  Columbia,  great 
care  and  attention  are  to  be  had  in  its  navi- 
gation, for  it  presents  a  constant  succession  of 
rapids,  falls,  cascades,  and  dalles.  Men  of  great 
experience  are  here  employed  as  pilots,  and 
notwithstanding  their  skill  and  precaution,  no 
river  probably  on  the  globe,  li^quented  as  much, 
could  tell  of  more  disastrous  accidents. 

At  the  dalles  you  enter  a  barren  region 
where  drift  wood  is  brought  into  every  en- 
campment by  the  Indians,  for  which  they 
gladly  receive  a  piece  of  tobacco  in  return. 
In  the  absence  of  the  savages,  the  tombs 
of  the  dead  are  sometimes  shamefully  pil- 
laged by  civilized  Christian  travellers,  taking 
away  the  very  boards  that  cover  the  dead 
bodies,  and  thus  leave  them  the  prey  of  vultures 
and  crows. 

Indians  linger  on  the  Columbia  as  long  as  a 
salmon  can  be  caught.  Unconscious  of  the 
approaching  winter,  they  do  not  lay  in  sufRcient 
stock  of  provisions,  and  till  late  in  the  fall  they 
may  be  seen  picking  up  the  dead  and  dying 
fishes  which  float  in  great  numbers  on  the 
surface.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  a 
camp  the  air  is   infected   with   the  scent    of 


236 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


>**>     '  i'v 


■?Ia 


m'--\,  i 


rKi':""^',': 


'«!>■•; 


*^^ill 


salmon  in  a  state  of  putrefaction ;  they  are  sus- 
pended on  trees,  or  on  scaffolds,  and  to  this  un- 
wholesome and  detestable  food  has  the  impro- 
vident Indian  recourse,  when  the  days  of  his 
long  lent  commence. 

You  can  scarcely  form  an  idea  of  the  deplor- 
able condition  of  the  poor  petty  tribes,  scattered 
along  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  of  which  the 
numbers  visibly  diminish  from  year  to  year. 
Imagine  their  dwellings,  a  few  poor  huts,  con- 
structed of  rush,  baik,  bushes,  or  of  pine 
branches,  sometimes  covered  with  skins  or 
rags — around  these  miserable  habitations  lie 
scattered  in  profusion  the  bones  of  animals, 
and  the  offal  of  fishes  of  every  tribe,  amidst 
accumulated  filth  of  every  description.  In  the 
interior,  you  find  roots  piled  up  in  a  corner, 
skins  hanging  from  cross  poles,  and  fish  boiling 
over  the  fire,  a  few  dying  embers  ;  an  axe  to 
cut  wood  being  seldom  found  among  them.  The 
whole  stock  of  kitchen  utensils,  drinking  vessels, 
dishes,  etc.,  are  comprised  in  something  like  a 
fish-kettle,  made  of  osier,  and  besmeared  with 
gum — to  boil  this  kettle  stones  are  heated  red 
hot  and  thrown  into  it.  But  the  mess  cooked 
in  this  way,  can  you  guess  what  it  is  ?  No,  not 
in  twenty  trials — it  is  impossible  to  divine  what 


fe 


OREGON        M  1  C5  JS  1  O  N  J5 . 


•.>37 


ire  sus- 

this  un- 

impro- 

j  of  his 

5  deplor- 
cattered 
hich  the 
to  year, 
uts,  con- 
of   pine 
skins   or 
itions  lie 
animals, 
,  amidst 
In  the 
corner, 
^h  boiling 
,n  axe  to 
lem.    The 
g  vessels, 
g  like  a 
,red  with 
ated  red 
iS  cooked 
No,  not 
^ine  what 


I 


the  ingredients  are  that  compose  this  outlandish 

soup  ! 

But  to  pass  from  the  material  to  the  personal ; 
what  strange  figures !  faces  thickly  covered 
with  grease  and  dirt — heads  that  have  never 
felt  a  comb — hands  !  but  such  hands  !  a  verit- 
able pair  of  "jack  of  all  trades,"  fulfilling  in 
rapid  succession,  the  varied  functions  of  the 
comb,  the  pocket-handkerckief,  the  knife,  fork, 
and  spoon — while  eating,  the  process  is  loudly 
indicated  by  the  crackling  and  discordant 
sounds  that  issue  from  the  nose,  mouth,  throat, 
etc.,  a  sight,  the  bare  recollection  of  which  is 
enough  to  sicken  any  person.  Thus  you  can 
form  some  idea  of  their  personal  miseries — mis- 
eries, alas  !  that  faintly  image  another  species 
infinitely  more  saddening  ;  for  what  shall  I  say 
in  attempting  to  describe  their  moral  condition  ? 
There  prevails  among  the  greater  part  of  them, 
a  kind  of  superstitious  idolatry,  (called  medicine 
or  juggling),  that  pays  homage  to  the  vilest 
animals  ;  a  degeneracy  of  morals  which  knows 
no  stronger  tie  in  conjugal  obligations,  than  the 
caprice  of  the  moment — a  vehement,  inordinate 
passion  for  gambling,  that  is  prolonged  to  the 
time  of  repose — a  laziness  which  nothing  can 

induce  them  to  shake  oflf  but  the  love  of  play, 

11* 


'  .-'??i 


23S 


OREGON       MlStJlONS. 


h.t 


n  ^  ; 


!|    ' 


or  the  pressing  claim  of  hunger — they  are  in 
fine,  addicted  to  the  vilest  habits  of  gluttony, 
dissimulation,  etc.  Such  is  the  wretched  con- 
dition of  the  poor  savage  tribes  along  the  Co- 
lumbia. But  amidst  all  this  misery,  there  is 
fortunately  one  redeeming  feature,  a  constant 
desire  to  discover  some  power  superior  to  man  ; 
this  disposition  renders  them  attentive  to  the 
least  word  that  seems  to  convey  the  slightest 
knowledge  of  a  Supreme  Being,  and  hence  the 
facility  with  which  they  believe  anything  that 
at  all  resembles  the  Word  of  God. 

Very  reverend  and  dear  Father,  your  humble 
and  obedient  servant, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


-.:« 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


239 


No.  XX 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


St.  Ignatius,  near  the  Kalispel  Bay,  > 
July  26th,  1846.  ] 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial, — The 
eighth  day  after  my  departure  from  Fort  Van- 
couver, I  landed  safely  at  Walla  Walla,  with 
the  goods  destined  for  the  different  missions. 
In  a  few  days  all  was  ready,  and  having  thanked 
the  good  and  kind-hearted  Mr.  McBride,  the 
Superintendent  of  the  Fort,  who  had  rendered 
me  every  assistance  in  his  power,  we  soon  found 
ourselves  on  the  way  to  the  mountains  leading 
a  band  of  pack  mules  and  horses  over  a  sandy 
dry  plain,  covered  with  bunch  grass  and  worm- 
wood. We  made  about  sixteen  miles  and  en- 
camped for  the  night,  in  a  beautiful  little  mea- 
dow, watered  by  the  Walla  Walla  river,  where 
we  found  abundance  of  grass  for  our  animals — 
these  were  soon  unloaded  and  left  free  to  graze 


^^^ 


240 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Ir 


n 


il 


:J 


li 


at  leisure  ;  we  next  made  a  fire,  put  on  the 
camp-kettle,  stretched  the  bed,  consisting  of  a 
buffalo-robe,  and  smoked  together  the  friendly 
Indian  pipe,  whilst  supper  was  preparing.  We 
found  ourselves  at  home  and  perfectly  at  ease 
in  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  The  evening 
was  clear  and  beautiful — not  a  cloud — our 
sleep,  sound  ard  refreshing,  prepared  us  for  an 
early  start  at  dawn  of  day.  We  had  a  day's 
march,  with  pack  animals,  over  an  undulating 
plain,  before  we  could  reach  the  crossing  of 
the  Nez-perce  or  Lewis  fork,  whose  source 
is  in  the  angle  of  the  Rocky  and  Snowy  Moun- 
tains, between  the  42d  and  44th  degrees,  near 
the  sources  of  the  western  Rio  Colorado,  the 
Platte,  the  Yellow  Stone,  and  the  Missouri 
rivers :  its  western  course  till  it  reaches  the 
Blue  Mountains,  and  hence  its  northern  direc- 
tion till  it  joins  the  Columbia,  together  with  its 
principal  tributaries,  are  sufficiently  known  to 
you,  and  have  been  amply  described  already. 

We  found  about  a  dozen  Indian  lodges  called 
the  Palooses,  a  portion  of  the  Sapetan  or  Nez- 
perce  tribe.  We  procured  from  the  Indians 
here  some  fresh  salmon,  for  which  we  made 
them  ample  return  in  powder  and  lead.  But  as 
the  grass  was  withered  and  scanty,    and  the 


-I 


URIiGON       MiaSIUiN^. 


•141 


311  the 
g  of  a 
riendly 
r.    We 
at  ease 
jvening 
id — our 
for  an 
a  day's 
lulating 
;sing   of 
source 
r  Moun- 
es,  near 
ado,  the 
Missouri 
;hes  the 
n  direc- 
with  its 
nown  to 
jready. 
is  called 
or  Nez- 
Indians 
e   made 
But  as 
and  the 


pilfering  dispositions  of  these  Indians  rather 
doubtfu).  we  resolved  on  proceeding  eight  or 
ten  miles  farther,  and  encamped  late  in  the 
evening  on  the  Pavilion  river.  The  Nez-perce 
and  Spokane  plain  is  at  least  a  thousand  feet 
elevated  above  the  bed  of  the  river.  It  is  dry, 
stony,  undulating,  covered  with  bunch  and  nutri- 
tious grass,  with  prickly  pear  and  wormwood. 
The  basaltic  and  volcanic  foi  mat  ions  which  ex- 
tend through  the  whole  of  this  region  are  really 
wonderful.  We  frequently  passed  ponrls  and 
small  lakes  embedded  between  walls  ol  basaltic 
rocks — immense  ranges  of  dark  si  itdng  pillarji*, 
as  if  forced  from  the  bosom  of  the  plain,  extend 
for  some  miles,  resembling,  not  unfrequently, 
forts  and  ancient  ruined  cities  and  castles.  We 
encamped  several  times  near  small  but  beautiful 
lakes,  where  ducks  and  geese,  with  their  young 
broods,  were  swimming  in  great  numbers.  The 
Indians  frequent  these  regions  in  search  of  the 
bitter  and  camash  roots,  very  abundant  here. 
In  every  one  of  their  old  encampments  we  ob- 
served great  quantities  of  prairie-turtle  shells, 
a  proof  of  their  being  numerous  and  serving  as 
food  for  the  savages.  Pheasants  or  quails  were 
very  abundant  —  we  daily  killed  what  we 
wanted  for  our  meals. 


lf'*''T'     "',^, 

■I'"'  ' 

t' 

1  ■'  :.-^ 

t 

■,t 

.    1 

i 

i 
t 

rv 

I;!! 

! 

J 

ii: 

Bl 

'    ■"  '  ,  , 

"11 

ml'    ' 

'    1 

,        1 

■  !;          ^ 

^\\ 

H:r 

\i 

lit':          b 

i  Y  •     1    ! 

1 

f 

i 

:i 

■;:  ' '!»  i       i 

4! 

III    .|9|  !        ;:      ! 

iui!  1 

K  i            \  ^^^H                    u 

Oil 

i 

''  ^^H  ' 

m 

t-^HR  ! 

^''fi,    i^'  i^Hf  i  j    ' . 

1^' !-     '  Sm  1  ;'"    1    1 

W 

ir-r   '  Mk  !  ■   , 

1*! 

1  si''  ■ 

I'-'''''  ■    l-^^' 

1  '-'r 

^^^H 

'  »    1 

ip;';;  H 

1' 

W  •!'  '  ^     '  ^^H 

^'                J^H       ''S^. 

« 

ill  1  If' 

1 

1 

^11 

'*! 

::^'  ■  ^          ' 

f 

i 

'       lit) 

• 

» 

! 

I 

V 

! 

'  » 

f 

1 

242 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


On  the  fifth  day  of  our  departure  from  Walla 
Walla,  we  reached  the  Spokane  river,  and  found 
a  good  fording  for  our  animals.  You  will  see 
with  pleasure  the  chart  I  have  made  of  the 
head  waters  of  this  river,  which,  though  beauti- 
ful and  interesting,  is  yet,  like  all  the  other 
rivers  in  Oregon,  almost  an  unbroken  succession 
of  rapids,  falls,  and  cascades,  and  of  course  ill- 
adapted  in  its  present  condition  to  the  purposes 
of  navigation.  The  two  upper  valleys  of  the 
CcBur  d'Alene  are  beautiful,  and  of  a  rich 
mould ;  they  are  watered  by  two  deep  forks, 
running  into  the  CoBur  d'Alene  lake,  a  fine  sheet 
of  water,  of  about  thirty  miles  in  length  by  four 
or  five  broad,  from  which  the  river  Spokane  de- 
rives its  source.  I  called  the  two  upper  forks 
the  St.  Joseph's  and  the  St.  Ignatius.  They  are 
formed  by  innumerable  torrents,  descending 
from  the  Pointed-Heart  mountains,  a  chain  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  two  upper  valleys 
are  about  sixty  or  eighty  miles  long,  and  four  or 
eight  miles  broad.  I  counted  upwards  of  forty 
little  lakes  in  them.  The  whole  neighborhood 
of  the  Spokane  river  afibrds  very  abundant  graz- 
ing, and  in  many  sections  is  tolerably  well  tim- 
bered with  pines  of  different  species. 


ii|<!! 


UREGON       MlidSlONa, 


243 


Valla 
found 
U  see 
>f  the 
eauti- 
other 
;ession 

rse  ill- 
irposes 
of  the 
a  rich 
>  forks, 
e  sheet 
by  four 
ane  de- 

r  forks 
|hey  are 

lending 
ihain  of 

valleys 

four  or 
|of  forty 

orhood 
|nt  graz- 
iell  tim- 


On  leaving  the  river  we  ascended  by  a  steep 
Indian  path.  A  few  miles'  ride  across  a  pine 
forest  brings  you  to  a  beautiful  valley,  leading 
to  Colville,  agreeably  diversified  by  plains  and 
forests,  hemmed  in  by  high  wooded  mountains, 
and  by  huge  picturesque  rocks  towering  their 
lofty  heads  over  all  the  rest.  Fountains  and 
rivulets  are  here  very  nurierous.  After  about 
thirty  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the 
Kalispel  Mountain,  in  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
Francis  Regis,  where  already  about  seventy 
metis  or  half-breeds  have  collected  to  settle 
permanently.  Several  of  them  accompanied 
me  across  the  mountain,  the  height  of  which  is 
about  five  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
plain.  Its  access  is  very  easy  on  the  western 
side  ;  on  the  eastern,  the  narrow  path  winds  its 
snake-like  course  through  a  steep  and  dense 
forest.— After  a  march  of  about  eight  hours  we 
arrived  at  the  beautiful  Kalispel  Bay,  on  the 
margin  of  lake  De  Boey,  almost  in  sight  of  the 
Reduction  of  St.  Ignatius. — My  letter  to  Mrs.  P., 
which  I  insert  here  will  make  you  acquainted 
with  the  whole  history  of  that  mission. 

I  remain,  with  the  profoundest  respect  and 


t 


i24V 


I  , 

I  ■ 

J  . 


.iV 


'«- , 


:  ff  ■ 


I     .! 


iJ:,ji|' 


4 


i-f 


.' 


^''i 


244 


UREGON       MISSIONS. 


esteem,    Very    Rev.    Father    Provincial,   your 
humble  and  obedient  servant, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 

St.  Ignatius,  July  25th,  1846. 

Madam, — I  am,  indeed,  ashamed  at  not  having 
been  able  sooner  to  answer  the  letters  which 
you  had  the  kindness  to  write  xiie  on  the  2d  of 
September  and  the  7th  of  Deceniber,  1844.  They 
reached  the  Rocky  Mountaino  only  the  year 
after,  while  I  was  engaged  in  a  distant  mission 
among  the  Indians,  so  that  I  received  them  only 
in  the  month  of  July,  1846.  If  it  had  been  in 
my  power  to  forward  you  an  answer  before  aiis 
moment,  my  heart  assures  me  that  I  would  have 
done  it  without  delay,  for  I  must  tell  you  here, 
that  the  debt  of  gratitude  which  my  poor  In- 
dians and  myself  owe  you  is  very  great;  and  I 
felt  impatient  to  inform  you,  that  we  have  al- 
ready begun  to  pray  for  you,  for  your  dear  and 
amiable  children,  and  for  your  intentions.  I 
have  given  oirections  to  the  Indians  of  these 
different  tribes,  viz.,  the  Flat-Heads,  the  Pends 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


24^ 


d'Oreilles,  and  the  Coeur  d'Aleues,  to  recite, 
every  week,  the  Rosary  for  one  of  their  great 
benefactresses^,  meaning  yourself.  Now,  you 
cannot  but  be  aware,  that,  among  the  Indians, 
the  beads  are  recited  in  each  family,  so 
that  I  am  already  assured,  and  I  have 
the  consolation  of  saying  to  you,  that  many 
thousand  pairs  of  beads  have  already  been 
offered  up  to  God  and  his  august  mother  for 
you.  Those  good  Indians — those  children  of 
the  forest — so  dear  to  my  heart,  will  continue  to 
display  their  gratitude  till  I  tell  them  to  cease, 
and  that  will  not  be  very  soon.  What  confi- 
dence have  I  not  in  the  prayers  of  those  Indians, 
whose  merit  is  known  only  to  God  !  Oh  !  if  it 
is  true  that  the  prayer  of  him  who  possesses  the 
innocence,  the  simplicity,  and  the  faith  of  a 
child,  pierces  the  clouds — is  all-powerful,  and  is 
certainly  heard— then  beassi.ed  that  in  these 
new  missions,  in  which  the  finger  of  God  has 
been  so  visibly  manifested,  these  virtues  reign 
pre-eminently,  and  that  the  prayer  of  the  Indian 
will  also  be  heard  in  your  behalf!  How  happy 
should  I  be,  my  dear,  excellent  Madam,  could 
I  give  you  to  understand  how  great,  i.ov>^  sweet, 
how  enrapturing  is  their  devotion  to  the  august 
mother  of  (}od  !     The  name  of  Mary,  which 


■ji5T.";i' 


f.  ■'£'". 


'ififfifrnf!" 


#■* 


iillii! 


1-1 


i 


I! 

•ii 

,  :j 
■>i' 


ill 


"I  ■ 


■^i!! 


t|l 


246 


OREGON       IVllSSIONS. 


pronounced  in  the  Indian  language,  is  something 
so  sweet  and  endearing,  delights  and  charms 
them.  The  hearts  of  these  good  children  of  the 
forest  melt,  and  seem  to  overflow  when  they 
sing  the  praises  of  her  whom  they,  as  well  as 
we,  call  their  mother.  Oh !  I  feel  confident, 
knowing,  as  I  do,  their  dispositions,  that  they 
have  a  distinguished  place  in  the  heart  of  that 
Holy  Virgin  ;  and  that,  through  the  intercession 
of  Mary,  invoked  by  so  many  fervent  souls,  you 
will  obtain  from  God  whatever  you  ask ;  for  I 
am  too  well  acquainted  with  your  piety  to  think 
that  you  would  ask  anything  that  was  not  cal- 
culated to  promote  the  glory  of  God,  the  sancti- 
fication  of  your  own  soul,  and  that  of  your  chil- 
dren. 

Permit  me,  now,  to  say  a  few  words  concern- 
ing the  Indians  and  myself,  since  the  time  I  had 

the  honor  of  conversing  with  you  in  B ,  in  the 

spring  of  1843.  On  the  6th  of  November  of  the 
following  vear,  the  Rev.  Father  A.  Hoecken  came 
to  meet  me,  accompanied  by  several  Indians  of 
the  tribe  of  Pends  d'Oreiiles  of  the  Bay,  among 
whom  I  had  determined,  two  years  before,  to 
open  a  mission.  They  displayed  every  mark  of 
friendship  and  joy  at  my  return  among  them  ; 
they  conducted  me  in  triumph  to  their  camp, 


■;    f: 


OREGON       MliiiiluSii, 


247 


ething 
jharms 
of  the 
n  they 
well  as 
nfident, 
it  they 
of  that 
•cession 
uls,  you 
c;  for  1 
to  think 
not  cal- 
B  sancti- 
Dur  chil- 

concern- 
ne  I  had 
— ,  in  the 
er  of  the 
en  came 
idians  of 
y,  among 
efore,  to 
r  mark  of 
g  thom  ; 
ir   camp, 


:1 


and  received  me  there  amidst  volleys  of  mus- 
ketry and  the  sounding  of  trumpets.  It  would 
be  impossible  to  describe  the  feelings  of  my 
heart  at  thus  meeting  with  the  first  band  of  my 
dear  neophytes  and  children  in  God,  and  to  re- 
present to  you  the  real  joy  which  animated 
them  on  this  occasion.  How  much  had  we  not 
to  communicate  to  each  other  !  I  gave  them 
some  little  and  to  them  interesting  details  of 
the  vast  countries  through  which  I  had  tra- 
velled in  order  to  promote  the  interest  and  wel- 
fare of  the  Indians,  since  I  bade  them  farewell, 
that  is,  within  fifteen  months.  I  had  crossed 
the  great  American  desert,  and  passed  through 
so  many  warlike,  nomadical  nations,  extending 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  the  frontier  of  the 
the  State  of  Missouri.  I  had  travelled  over 
the  United  States  from  New  Orleans  to  Boston 
— crossed  the  Atlantic — seen  a  great  part  of 
Ireland  and  England — the  whole  of  Belgium, 
Holland  and  France.  From  Marseilles  I  had 
passed  by  Genoa,  the  city  of  palaces,  Leghorn, 
and  Civitta  Vecchia,  to  visit  the  Capital  of  the 
Christian  world.  From  Rome  I  had  gone  to 
Anvers,  and  then,  sailing  round  Cape  Horn, 
touching  at  Chili  and  Peru,  and  having  twice 
crossed  the  Equator,  I  had  at  length  disembark- 


^rflf'JBHHIHB 


.44! 

if- 


:t; 


\:\ 


,|iit|i  iliiili 


:i  it 


.11 


fii;: 


^48 


OREGON       MliJSlONiS. 


ed  at  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia,  and 
had  the  happiness  to  embrace,  on  the  6th  of 
November,  my  dear  neophytes,  who  had  prayed 
so  fervently  for  me,  that,  durino*  all  these  long 
voyages,  by  sea  and  land,  parsing  through  so 
many  different  climates,  and  ar.  all  seasons  of 
the  year,  I  had  not  been  troubleJ  either  by  sick- 
ness or  any  untoward  accident.  Glory  to  God 
for  so  special  a  protection,  and  a  thousand 
thanks  to  the  good  Indians  who,  from  the 
moment  of  my  departure  until  my  return,  had 
not  ceased  to  invoke,  morning  and  evening,  the 
blessing  and  assistance  of  Heaven  on  its  un- 
worthy servant. 

The  details  which  the  yonng  missionary 
gave  me  respecting  their  ^resent  disposi- 
tions, are  too  interesting  to  be  here  omitted ; 
and  I  give  them  in  proof  of  the  divine  grace 
over  the  hearts  of  this  well-disposed  people. 
All  that  I  had  recommended  to  them  in  the 
visits  I  paid  them  in  1841-42,  had  been  strictly 
complied  with.  "The  first  thing,"  says  Father 
Adrien  Hoecken  in  a  letter  home.  "  which  struck 
me  on  my  arrival  among  them,  was  a  truly 
brotherly  love  and  perfect  union,  which  ani- 
mated  the  whole  tribe,   and  seemed  to  make 


ORi^GON       MISSIONS. 


249 


la,  and 
6th  of 
prayed 
36  long 
[)ugh  so 
sons  of 
ay  sick- 
to  God 
lousand 
om   the 
irn,  had 
ling,  the 
its  un- 

ssionary 
disposi- 
mitted ; 
e  grace 
people, 
in  the 
strictly 
Father 
1  struck 
a  truly 
ich   ani- 
o  make 


I 

I 


them  but  one  family.  They  manifest  great 
love,  obedience  and  respect  for  their  chiefs,  and 
what  is  still  more  admirable,  they  all,  as  the 
chiefs  themselves  declare,  speak  and  desire  but 
one  and  the  same  thing.  These  chiefs  are  as 
much  the  real  fathers  of  their  people  as  is  a 
good  Superior  the  father  of  a  religious  com- 
munity. The  chiefs  among  the  Kalispels  speak 
calmly,  but  never  in  vain  ;  the  instant  they  inti- 
mate their  wish  to  one  of  their  followers,  he  sets 
to  work  to  accomplish  it.     Is  any  one  involved 

in  difficulties — is  he  in  want  or  sickness, —or 
does  he  wish  to  undertake  a  journej,  whether 
long  or  short — he  consults  his  chief,  and  shapes 
his  conduct  in  accordance  with  the  advice  he 
receives.  Even  with  regard  to  marriage,  the 
Indians  consult  their  chiefs,  who  sanction,  or 
postpone  it,  or  disapprove  of  it,  according  as 
they  deem  it  conducive,  or  otherwise,  to  the 
happiness  of  the  parties.  The  chief,  in  quality 
of  father,  endeavors  to  provide  for  the  support 
of  his  people.  It  is  he,  consequently,  who  regu- 
lates hunting,  fishing,  and  the  gathering  of  roots 
and  fruit.  All  ihe  game  and  fish  are  brought 
to  his  lodge,  and  divided  into  as  many  shares  as 
there  are  families.  The  distribution  is  made 
with  rigid  impartiality.    The  old,  the  infirm,  the 


f »  1 


■  ♦ 

.5  .. 


'■■'■;"  I 

h: 

# 


mm 


i 

M  i 

iiiij 

;-i-,-; ;- 

t 

1 

s 

1 

!'■■■ 

ii     -■■* 

i    ■' 

i/!Mi 

m^^ 

iu 

if:;i  ll 

250 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


widow,  all  receive  their  share  equally  with  the 
hunter.  Is  not  this  something  like  the  return  of 
the  golden  age — those  happy  times  when  every 
thing  was  held  in  common,  and  all  had,  as  the 
apostle  informs  us,  but  one  heart  and  one  soul  ? 
Complaints,  murmurings  and  backbiting  are 
here  unknown ;  blasphemy  has  never  been 
uttered  by  an  Indian  :  there  are  not  even  words 
in  his  language  to  express  it."  On  the  arrival 
of  the  Blacli'gown,  the  great  chiefs  explained  to 
him,  with  patriarchal  simplicity,  their  manner 
of  life.  "  We  are  ignorant,"  he  added,  "  but  now 
that  we  have  the  happiness  to  have  a  Black- 
gown  among  us,  we  will  listen  to  his  voice  and 
obey  it ;  whatever  changes  he  may  deem  neces- 
sary to  make,  we  will  cheerfully  submit." 

The  Black-gQwn  confirmed  and  approved  all 
the  good  practices  and  customs  he  found  estab- 
lished in  this  little  corner  of  the  world,  where, 
notwithstanding  their  poverty,  the  Indians 
all  seemed  contented  and  happy.  It  is  really 
affecting  to  hear  them  speak  of  the  darkness  in 
which  they  had  been  buried ;  and  to  see  them 
now  exulting  in  the  light  of  the  gospel,  and  the 
knowledge  of  the  Christian  virtues,  which  they 
cherish,  and  by  which  their  hearts  seem  to  be 
inflamed.  Their  whole  ambition  consists  in  listen- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


251 


ing  with  docility  to  the  word  of  God,  and  in  being 
able  thoroughly  to  understand  and  recite  their 
prayers.  Piety  is  what  a  young  man  seeks  in 
her  who  is  to  be  his  future  wife — and  what  a 
young  woman  desires  to  find  in  him  who  is  to 
become  her  husband.  In  their  leisure  hours 
they  surround,  and,  if  I  may  be  allowed  the  ex- 
pression, besiege  their  missionary.  To  the  day 
they  would  add  the  night,  if  he  could  bear  the 
fatigue,  in  speaking  of  heavenly  things.  Pride 
and  human  respect,  are  absolutely  unknown  to 
them.  How  often  have  we  not  seen  gray-head- 
ed old  men  and  even  chiefs,  sit  down  by  the 
side  of  children  ten  or  eleven  years  old,  who 
would  teach  them  their  prayers,  and  explain  to 
them  the  figures  of  the  Catholic  Ladder,  with  all 
the  gravity  becoming  a  teacher;  and  give  tp 
the  explanation,  for  one  or  two  hours,  all  the 
attention  of  obedient  pupils.  In  seasons  of 
scarcity,  when  the  fishing  or  hunting  has  failed, 
or  in  other  misfortunes,  they  manifest  no  signs 
of  impatience.  They  are  quiet  and  resigned  re- 
ceiving them  as  punishments  for  their  sins; 
while  their  success  they  attribute  to  the  bounty 
of  God,  and  render  to  Him  all  the  glory  of  it. 

The  usual  place  of  residence  of  the  Kalispels 
— that  in  which  the  Reduction  of  St.  Ignatius  is 


I, 


'i 


J* ' 


11 


■f: 


w. 


A 


iiiil  iip! 


252 


OREGON      MISSIONS 


now  established — is  an  extensive  prairie,  called 
the  Bay  of  the  Kalispels,  thirty  or  forty  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Clark  or  Flat-Head  River. 
A  beautiful  grotto  exists  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  mission,  which  I  have  named  the  grotto  of 
Manresa,  in  honor  of  our  Holy  Founder.  It  is 
very  large,  and  might,  at  a  small  expense,  be 
fitted  up  for  a  church.  May  the  Indians  gather 
in  crowds  into  this  new  Manresa,  and  after  the 
example  of  their  patron,  St.  Ignatius,  be  pene- 
trated with  a  feeling  sense  of  heavenly  things, 
and  inflamed  with  the  love  of  God  ! 

I  shall  always  remember  with  pleasure  the 
winter  of  1844-45,  which  I  had  the  happinecs  of 
spending  among  these  good  Indians.  The  place 
for  wintering  was  well  chosen,  picturesque, 
agreeable,  and  convenient.  The  camp  was 
placed  near  a  beautiful  waterfall,  caused  by 
Clark  river's  being  blocked  up  by  an  immense 
rock,  through  which  the  waters,  forcing  narrow 
passages,  precipitate  themselves.  A  dense  and 
interminable  forest  protected  us  from  the  north 
winds,  and  a  countless  number  of  dead  trees 
standing  on  all  sides,  furnished  us  with  abun- 
dant fuel  for  our  fires  during  the  inclement  sea- 
son. We  were  encircled  by  ranges  of  lofty 
mountains,  whose  snow-clad  summits  reflected 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


253 


,  called 
J  miles 
River, 
hood  of 
rotto  of 
•.  It  is 
;nse,  be 
3  gather 
ifter  the 
►e  pene- 
r  things, 

jure  the 
jiness  of 
le  place 
uresque, 
np  was 
used  by 
mense 
narrow 
tnse  and 
e  north 
,d  trees 
abun- 
nt  sea- 
f  lofty 
fleeted 


in  the  sun,  their  brightness  on  all  the  surround- 
ing country. 

The  place  for  wintering  being  determined,  the 
first  care  of  the  Indians  was  to  erect  the  house 
of  prayer.  While  the  men  cut  down  saplings, 
the  women  brought  bark  and  mats  to  cover 
them.  In  two  days  this  humble  house  of  the 
Lord  was  completed — humble  and  poor  indeed, 
but  truly  the  house  of  prayer,  to  which  pure, 
simple,  innocent  souls  repaired,  to  offer  to  the 
Great  Spirit  their  vows,  and  the  tribute  of  their 
affections.  Here  the  missionaries  continued  with 
care  and  diligence,  their  instructions  preparatory 
to  baptism.  How  consoling  was  it  to  see  our- 
selves surrounded  by  this  fervent  band,  who 
had  renounced  the  chase  of  the  buffalo — a 
pleasure  so  attracting  to  an  Indian — and  had 
come  from  various  parts  of  the  country  to  place 
themselves  under  our  direction,  in  the  well- 
founded  hope  of  being  speedily  regenerated  in 
the  saving  waters  of  baptism.  They  had  al- 
ready learned  their  prayers,  and  all  those  things 
which  it  was  necessary  they  should  practise. 
They  applied  with  ardor  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  nature  and  obligations  of  the  Sacra- 
ment of  regeneration,  and  the  dispositions  re- 
quired for  its  worthy  reception. 

12 


1 


v! 


if 


\fi  }■ 


Hi 


t 


I'l'^^ 


■'I 


F  r'* 

f,    'I  .  ,  ! 


'. 

1 

.1     f 

^  1 ;       ; 

■''                            '           ii 

-^                             i 

i  i 
t  i 

254 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


The  great  festival  of  Christmas,  ll**  dajr  on 
which  the  little  band  was  to  be  ad  ;  1  lo  the 
number  of  the  true  children  of  God,  will  never 
be  effaced  from  the  memory  of  our  good  Indians. 
The  manner  in  which  we  celebrated  midnight 
mass,  may  give  you  an  idea  of  our  festival. 
The  signal  for  rising,  which  was  to  be  given  a 
few  minutes  before  midnight,  was  the  firing  of 
a  pistol,  announcing  to  the  Indians  that  the 
house  of  prayer  would  soon  be  open.  This  was 
followed  by  a  general  discharge  of  guns,  in 
honor  of  the  'birth  of  the  Infant  Saviour,  and 
three  hundred  voices  rose  spontaneously  from 
the  midst  of  the  forest,  and  entoned  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Pends  d'Oreilles,  the  beautiful 
canticle  :  "  Du  Dieu  puissant  tout  annonce  la 
gloire," — "  The  Almighty's  glory  all  things  pro- 
claim." In  a  moment  a  multitude  of  adorers 
were  seen  wending  their  way  to  the  humble 
temple  of  the  Lord — resembling  indeed,  the 
manger  in  which  the  Messiah  was  born.  On 
that  night,  which  all  at  once  became  bright  as 
day,  they  experienced,  I  know  not  what,  that 
which  made  them  exclaim  aloud,  "Oh  God !  I  give 
Thee  my  heart."  Oh!  I  trust  that  the  happy 
impression  which  this  unwonted  spectacle  made 
upon  their  hearts,  will  never  be   effaced.     Of 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


255 


day  on 
lo  ibe 
I  never 
[ndians. 
lidnigbt 
festival, 
given  a 
[iring  of 
that  the 
rhis  was 
guns,  in 
our,  and 
isly  from 
the  Ian- 
beautiful 
monce   let 
lings  pro- 
adorers 
humble 
eed,    the 
|)orn.    On 
bright  as 
rhat,  that 
od !  I  give 
he  happy 
=tcle  made 
aced.    Of 


what  was  our  little  church  of  the  wilderness 
constructed?  I  have  already  told  you — of 
posts  fresh  cut  in  the  woods,  covered  over  with 
mats  and  bark  ;  these  were  its  only  materials. 
On  the  eve,  the  church  was  embellished  with 
garlands  and  wreaths  of  green  boughs ;  forming, 
as  it  were,  a  frame  for  the  images  which  repre- 
sent the  affecting  mysteries  of  Christmas  night. 
The  interior  was  ornamented  with  pine  bran- 
ches. The  altar  was  neatly  decorated,  be- 
spangled with  stars  of  various  brightness,  and 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  ribbons — things  ex- 
ceedingly attractive  to  the  eye  of  an  Indian.  At 
midnight  I  celebrated  a  solemn  Mass,  the  In- 
dians sang  several  canticles  suitable  to  the 
occasion.  That  peace  announced  in  the  first 
verse  of  the  Angelic  hymn — "The  Gloria^ — 
Peace  on  earth  to  men  of  good  will,"  was,  I 
venture  to  say,  literally  fulfilled  to  the  Indians 
of  the  forest.  A  grand  banquet,  according  to 
Indian  custom,  followed  the  first  Mass.  Some 
choice  pieces  of  the  animals  slain  in  the  chase 
had  been  set  apart  for  the  occasion.  I  ordered 
half  a  sack  of  flour,  and  a  large  boiler  of  sweet- 
ened coffee  to  be  added.  The  union,  the  con- 
tentment, the  joj^  and  charity,  which  pervaded 


.  1  •< 


,«* 


lilt'' 


■^ 


I 


^Hm, 

\ 

^^^K  f    :. 

H''-. 

;:>■  . 

;■'  '' 

B  ^^' 

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v      j 

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R^P 

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l! 


256 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


the  whole  assembly,  might  well  be  compared  to 
the  agape  of  the  primitive  Christians. 

After  the  second  High  Mass,  all  the  aduU"; 
with  the  chiefs  at  their  head,  presented  them- 
selves in  the  church  to  receive  baptism,  the 
fulfilment  of  their  longing  desires.  The  old 
man  and  woman  whom  I  baptized  two  years 
before,  were  sponsors  for  all.  The  meii  xVere 
placed  on  the  one  side,  according  to  the  custom 
of  Paraguay,  and  the  women  on  the  other.  I 
was  assisted  during  the  ceremony,  by  Father 
Hoecken,  their  worthy  and  zealous  missionary. 
Everything  was  done  in  order  and  with  pro- 
priety. Permit  me  to  repeat  here  that  I  should 
be  delighted  could  I  but  communicate  to  the 
zealous  and  fervent,  those  pleasurable  feelings 
— that  overflowing  of  the  heart,  which  one  ex- 
periences on  such  occasions.  Here,  indeed,  the 
Indian  missionary  enjoys  his  greatest  consola- 
tions :  here  he  obtains  his  strength,  his  courage, 
his  zeal  to  labor  to  bring  men  to  the  knowledge 
of  the  true  God,  in  spite  of  the  poverty,  the  pri- 
vations of  every  description,  and  the  dangers 
with  which  he  has  to  contend.  Yes,  surely, 
even  in  this  life  is  the  promise  of  the  Saviour 
fulfilled  with  regard   to    him,    "  Ye    shall   rc- 


■i 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


257 


Ted  to 

aduU  , 
them- 

m,  the 

he    old 

>  years 

,:    xvere 

custom 

ither.     I 
Father 

jsionary. 

rith  pro- 

1  should 

e  to  the 
feelings 
one  ex- 
eed,  the 
consola- 
courage, 
owledge 
,  the  pri- 
dangers 
surely, 
Saviour 
shall   re- 


ceive a  hundred  fold."  The  triflinj?  things  of  the 
world  he  abandons,  are  nothing  to  be  compared 
with  the  blessings  he  finds  in  the  wilderness.  The 
priest  does  not  address  in  vain  to  the  Indians, 
those  beautiful  words  of  the  Roman  ritual ; 
"  Receive  this  white  garment,  etc.,"  "  Receive 
this  burning  taper,  etc."  He  may  be  certain 
that  the  greater  number  of  his  catechumens 
will  wear  that  spotless  garment — will  preserve 
their  baptismal  innocence,  to  the  hour  of  their 
death.  When  I  have  afterwards  asked  them,  if 
they  have  not  offended  God  ?  if  their  conscience 
does  not  reproach  them  with  some  fault  ?  how 
often  have  I  received  this  touching  and  consoling 
answer  :  "  Oh,  Father  !  in  baptism  I  renounced 
sin,  I  try  to  avoid  sin,  the  very  thought  of 
offending  God,  frightens  me  ! "  The  ceremonies 
of  baptism  were  closed  by  a  second  instruc- 
tion, and  by  the  distribution  of  beads  which  the 
Indians  are  accustomed  to  say  every  evening  in 
public. 

About  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  solemn 
bened  ction  of  the  blessed  sacrament  was  given 
for  the  first  time,  immediately  after  which,  up- 
wards of  fifty  couples,  many  of  whom  were 
eighty  years  old,  came  forward  to  rencnv  be  tore 
the  Church,  their  marriage  promises.  1  could  not 


.■q^^afsfVw 


'''J',^i^?^f1^fi>-f'':'^'^'^^  'A'--*^-?^ 


tit  .^ 

if 

-  ■  -•^i 


* 


■tr 


ti 


i 


^1*  ; 


^1 


238 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


help  shedding  tears  of  joy  at  witnessing  this 
truly  primitive  simplicity,  and  the  love  and 
affection  with  which  they  pledged  again  their 
faith  to  each  other.  The  last  instruction  was 
then  given,  and  thanks  were  returned  to  God  for 
all  the  blessings  he  had  vouchsafed  to  shower 
upon  them,  on  this  ever-memor  able  day.  The 
recitation  of  prayers  and  the  chanting  of  hymns 
were  heard  in  all  the  lodges  of  the  camp,  till 
the  night  was  far  advanced. 

Fathers  Mengarir^i  and  Serbinati,  (the  last- 
mentioned  Father  has  since  died),  had  the  con- 
solation to  see  the  whole  tribe  of  the  Flat-Heads, 
among  whom  they  had  been  laboring,  approach 
the  Holy  Table  on  this  day.  Twelve  young 
Indians,  taught  by  Father  Mengarini,  performed 
with  accuracy,  several  pieces  of  music  during 
the  midnight  Mass.  Fathers  Point  and  Joset 
had,  also,  the  consolation  of  admitting  for  the 
first  time,  nearly  the  entire  tribe  of  the  CoBur 
d'Alenes,  on  this  auspicious  day,  to  the  Holy 
Communion.  Father  Point  has  given  the  par- 
ticulars of  this  fir?t  communion  in  a  letter, 
which  has  been  published,  and  which  you  have, 
no  doubt,  read  with  pleasure.  Th?  Christmas 
of  1844  was,  therefore,  a  great  and  glorious  day 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


r  this 
}    and 
their 
n  was 
lod  for 
ihower 
The 
hymns 
ap,  till 


le  last- 
tie  con- 
-Heads, 
pproach 
young 
•formed 
during 
d  Joset 
for  the 
e  Coeur 
e  Holy 
he  par- 
letter, 
•u  have, 
iristmas 
ous  day 


pf?  t'     ' 


■ 

i 

- 1 

V 


err 


:  1 

D 

_3 


tA 


C/2 

g 

I 


OR£»OM       MlBdlOMt. 


269 


£ 


I  will  close  this  already  lengthy  letter  with  a 
few  words  more  concerning  tlie  Pends  d'Oreilles 
of  the  Bay.  Early  in  t\v.^  spring  of  1845,  they 
began  to  build  upon  the  spot  selected  for  the 
Reduction  of  St.  Ignatius,  and  to  open  fields. 
On  Ascension  day  of  the  same  vear,  Father 
Hoecken  administered  baptism  to  upwards  of  a 
hundred  adults.  At  my  last  visit,  which  I  paid 
them  in  July  last,  they  had  already  put  up 
fourteen  log  houses,  besides  a  large  barn,  had 
the  timber  prepared  for  a  church,  and  had  up- 
wards of  three  hundred  acres  in  grain,  enclosed 
by  a  substantial  fence.  The  whole  village,  men, 
women,  and  children,  had  worked  most  cheer- 
fully. I  counted  thirty  head  of  horned  cattle — 
the  squaws  had  learned  to  mill:  thv  cows  and 
to  churn;  they  had  a  lew  hogs  and  some  domes- 
tic fowls.  The  numbf>r  of  Christians  had  dou- 
bled since  Christmas,  1844. 

A  flour  and  saw  mill,  a  few  more  ploughs, 
with  other  agricultural  implements,  and  carpen- 
ter's tools,  were  much  wanted  in  the  village  of 
St.  Ignatius.  All  is  to  be  commenced  among 
these  poor,  good  Indians,  and  to  us  they  loo\' 
for  means  and  supplies,  which  we  readily 
gu ..  as  far  as  we  are  able.  Already  was  an 
appeal  made  *;o  the  generous  and   charitable 


»■•■ »    ' 


.1 


k    '« 


I 


I    -i 


■■  I 


,1 


260 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


Christians,  and  it  is  consoling  for  me  to  say, 
that  appeal  found  an  echo  in  the  hearts  of  the 
friends  of  the  Indians,  which  enabled  us  to  en- 
large our  missionary  operations,  and  I  may  add, 
that  the  grateful  prayer  of  the  Indians  is  daily 
ascending  to  the  throne  of  the  Almighty,  to  im- 
plore the  blessings  of  Heaven  on  their  benefac- 
tors. In  1845  and  '46,  several  stations  were 
formed,  and  the  extensive  mission  of  New  Cale- 
donia was  commenced. 

I  remain,  with  profound  respect  and  esteem, 
madam,  your  very  humble  and  obedient  servant, 

R  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


261 


No.  XXI. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


Valley  of  St.  Mary's,  Aug.  10,  1846. 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial,  —  On 
the  27th  July,  I  bade  farewell  to  Father  Hoecken 
and  his  interesting  little  flock,  consisting  of 
about  five  hundred  Indians.  I  was  accom- 
panied by  two  Kalispels,  and  some  of  the  CoBur 
d'Alenes,  who  came  to  meet  me.  We  had 
beautiful  weather,  and  a  path  remarkably  free 
from  those  obstructions  so  annoying  to  travel- 
lers in  the  mountains.  Towards  the  middle  of 
our  day's  journey,  we  reached  a  beautiful  lake 
surrounded  by  hills,  and  a  thick  forest  of  larch. 
I  have  named  it  the  Lake  de  Nef,  as  a  token  of 
gratitude  towards  one  of  the  greatest  benefac- 
tors of  the  mission.  It  discharges  itself  through 
a  narrow  passage,  forming  a  beautiful  rapid, 
called  the  Tournhout-torrent,  at  the  termination 

12* 


ps'- 1 

!■' 

p.'-- 

i' 

Iv,;, 

11  •',  ;      ■ 

\ 

■h 

'  ■■X'. 

i 


ii 


■  f 


»;<a. 


262 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


of  which  it  joins  its  limpid  waters  to  those  of 
the  river  Spokane. 

Next  day  the  sun  rose  majestically,  and 
everything  gave  promise  of  an  agreeable  day, 
but  these  fine  appearances  were  gradually  lost 
behind  a  thick  bank  of  ominous  clouds,  which, 
shortly  after  overspreading  the  sky,  poured 
down  such  torrents  of  rain,  that  everything  on 
us  was  drenched  as  completely  as  if  we  had  wad- 
ed through  a  river.  At  the  foot  of  the  great 
rapids,  we  crossed  the  river  Spokane,  and  con- 
tinued our  route  over  an  extensive  plain,  agree- 
ably interspersed  with  thick  groves  of  pine, 
when  towards  sunset  we  encamped  close  by  a 
refreshing  fountain. 

A  few  words  descriptive  of  our  encampments 
during  wet  weather,  may  not  be  out  of  place. 
The  tent  erected  in  haste — saddles,  bridles,  bag- 
gage, etc.,  thrown  into  some  sheltered  spot — 
large  heaps  of  larch  branches  or  brushwood  are 
cut  down,  and  spread  over  the  spot  of  ground 
destined  for  our  repose— provision  of  as  much 
dry  wood  as  can  be  collected  is  now  brought 
forth  for  the  whole  night ;  on  this  occasion  we 
made  a  fire  large  enough  to  roast  an  ox.  These 
preparations  completed,  our  meal  (dinner  and 
supper  the  same  time)  consisting  of  flour,  camash 


ti 


\i  i 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


263 


»se  oi 

,  and 
day, 
y  lost 
ivhich, 
loured 
ng  on 
i  wad' 
great 
d  con- 
agree- 
f  pine, 
e  by  a 

pments 
place. 
IS,  bag- 
spot — 
)od  are 
ground 

much 
)rought 
on  we 

These 
er  and 
•rimash 


I  1 


roots,  and  some  bufTalo  tallow,  is  thrown  into 
a  large  kettle  nearly  filled  with  water.  The 
great  heat  obliging  the  cook  to  stand  at  a  re- 
spectable distance  from  the  fire,  a  long  pole 
serves  as  a  ladle  to  stir  about  the  contents  un- 
til the  mixture  has  acquired  the  proper  density, 
when  a  vigorous  attack  is  made  upon  it  after  a 
singular  fashion  indeed.  On  the  present  occa- 
sion we  were  six  in  number,  trusting  to  a  single 
spoon,  but  necessity  soon  supplied  the  defici- 
ency. Two  of  the  company  used  pieces  of  bark ; 
two  others,  strips  of  leather  ;  and  the  fifth,  a 
small  turtle-shell.  Grace  being  said,  a  circle  is 
formed  round  the  kettle,  and  the  instruments 
plunge  and  replunge  into  it  with  as  much  regu- 
larity and  address,  as  a  number  of  smiths* 
hammers  plying  at  the  anvils — a  few  moments, 
and  the  contents  of  the  large  kettle  are  gone, 
leaving  not  a  vestige  behind.  We  found  this 
repast  delicious,  thanks  to  our  keen  appetites. 
Making  due  allowance  for  the  tastes  of  others, 
"  de  gustihus  enim  nil  disputandumj*  I  confess  I 
have  never  enjoyed  a  feast  more  heartily,  than 
such  as  I  have  now  described,  prepared  in  the 
open  air,  after  the  Indian  fashion.  All  the  re- 
fined inventions  of  the  art  culinary,  as  sauces, 
pickles,  preserves,  pies,  etc.,  designed  to  quicken 


If!';' 


'At. 


T'':t, 


4  ■■ 


-r 


|i! 


5  il 


111 

if 


'i 

I:: 

1'! 


264 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


or  restore  weak  appetites,  are  here  utterly  use- 
less. Loss  of  appetite,  which  among  the  weal- 
thy forms  the  reigning  complaint,  furnishing 
abundant  employment  to  apothecaries  and  doc- 
tors, is  here  unheard  of.  If  these  patients 
would  have  the  courage  to  abandon  for  a  time 
their  high  living,  and  traverse  the  wilds  of 
this  region  on  horseback,  breakfasting  at  day- 
break, and  dining  at  sunset,  after  a  ride  of  forty 
miles,  I  venture  to  predict  that  they  will  not 
need  any  refined  incitements  to  relish  as  I  did 
a  simple  dish  prepared  by  the  Indians.  Having 
dried  our  blankets  and  said  night  prayers,  our 
repose  was  not  the  less  sound  for  having  fared 
so  simply,  or  lain  upon  a  rough  couch  of  brush- 
wood. We  started  early  the  next  morning,  and 
about  mid-day  arrived  at  the  mission  of  the 
Sacred  Heart,  where  I  was  received  with  the 
greatest  cordiality  by  Fathers  Joset  and  Point, 
with  B.  B.  Magri  and  Lyons.  All  the  Coeur 
d'Alenes  of  the  neighborhood  came  to  welcome 
me.  The  fervor  and  piety  of  these  poor  Indians 
filled  me  with  great  joy  and  consolation,  especi- 
ally when  I  considered  how  great  the  change 
wrought  in  them  since  their  conversion  to  Chris- 
tianity. The  details  of  this  conversion  have,  I 
believe,  been  published  by  Father  Point,  and 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


265 


by  the  way,  I  may  remark  here,  that  some  in- 
cidents connected  with  my  previous  mission  to 
this  country,  are  inserted  in  this  letter.  To 
these  details  I  may  add,  that  these  Indians  pre- 
vious to  their  conversion,  were  shunned  by  the 
other  tribes,  on  account,  it  is  said,  of  their  great 
power  in  juggling  and  other  idolatrous  prac- 
tices. Indeed,  they  were  addicted  to  supersti- 
tions the  most  absurd,  blindly  offering  adoration 
to  the  vilest  beasts,  ar  '  the  most  common  ob- 
jects. Now,  they  are  the  first  to  scoff  at 
these  ridiculous  practices,  adding  at  the  same 
time,  with  much  feeling  and  veneration,  "  God 
has  had  pity  on  us — He  has  opened  our  eyes — 
He  is  infinitely  good  to  us."  A  single  instance 
will  serve  to  give  you  some  idea  of  the  objects 
of  their  worship,  and  the  facility  with  which  they 
adopt  their  manitous  or  divinities.  They  related 
to  me,  that  the  first  white  man  they  saw  in  their 
country,  wore  a  calico  shirt  spotted  all  over 
with  black  and  white,  which  to  them  appeared 
like  the  smallpox,  he  also  wore  a  white  cover- 
let. The  CoBur  d'Alenes  imagined  that  the  spot- 
ted shirt  was  the  great  manitou  himself — the 
great  master  of  that  alarming  disease,  the 
smallpox — and  that  the  white  coverlet  was 
the  great   manitou  of  the  snow ;  that  if  they 


1 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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266 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


'1^  t' 


could  obtain  possession  of  these,  and  pay 
them  divine  honors,  their  nation  would  never 
afterwards  be  visited  by  that  dreadful  scourge  ; 
and  their  winter  hunts  be  rendered  success- 
ful by  an  abundant  fall  of  snow.  They  ac- 
cordingly offered  him  in  exchange  for  these, 
several  of  their  best  horses.  The  bargain  was 
eagerly  closed  by  the  white  man.  The  spotted 
shirt  and  the  white  coverlet  became  thencefor- 
ward, objects  of  great  veneration  for  many 
years.  On  grand  solemnities,  the  two  manitous 
were  carried  in  procession  to  a  lofty  eminence, 
usually  consecrated  to  the  performance  of  their 
superstitious  rites.  They  were  then  respectfully 
spread  on  the  grass :  the  great  medicine-pipe 
oflered  to  them,  with  as  much  veneration,  as  is 
customary  with  the  Indians,  in  presenting  it  to 
the  sun,  the  fire,  the  earth,  and  the  water.  The 
whole  band  of  jugglers,  or  medicine-men,  then 
entoned  canticles  of  adorcation  to  them.  The 
service  was  generally  terminated  with  a  grand 
dance,  in  which  the  performers  exhibited  the 
most  hideous  contortions  and  extravagant 
gestures,  accompanied  with  a  most  unearthly 
howling. 

The  term  medicine  is  commonly  employed  by 
the  whites,  to   express   whatever   regards  the 


i 


'■•;■-> 


<i* 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


267 


juggling,  idolatrous  practices  of  the  savages  ; 
probably,  because  the  Indian  feeling  his  igno- 
rance of  the  proper  remedies  in  sickness,  and 
almost  wholly  dependent  upon  chance  for  his 
subsistence,  merely  demands  of  his  manitous 
some  relief  in  these  distressing  situations.  This 
something  that  the  Indians  call  Power,  is  at  times 
limited,  say  they,  to  the  procuring  of  only  one 
object,  as  the  cure  of  some  disease.  Some  other 
Power,  again,  is  not  so  limited,  it  extends  to 
many  objects,  as  success  in  hunting,  fishing, 
waging  war,  and  avenging  injuries.  All  this, 
however,  varies  according  to  the  degree  of  con- 
fidence reposed  in  it  by  the  individual,  the  num- 
ber of  his  passions  or  the  intensity  of  his  malice. 
Some  of  the  Powers  are  looked  upon  even  by 
the  savages  themselves,  as  wicked  in  the  ex- 
treme, the  sole  object  of  such  Powers  is  to  do 
evil.  Moreover  it  is  not  at  all  times  granted, 
even  when  those  professing  to  be  most  power- 
ful medicine-men,  earnestly  desire  it.  It  comes 
only  during  sleep,  in  a  fainting  fit,  during  a 
loud  clap  of  thunder,  or  in  the  delirious  excite- 
ment of  some  passion  ;  but  never  without  some 
definite  purpose,  as  to  foment  dissensions,  or  ex- 
asperate to  deeds  of  violence,  or  to  obtain  some 
corporal  advantage  ;  favors  which  are  always 


M'' 


i- 


-K-ir 


268 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


ii' 


^ 


.-i  .■ 


8 


■'I 


is 


1  ; 


purchased  at  the  expense  of  the  soul.  Much 
exaggeration  is,  of  course,  clearly  characteristic 
of  those  misnamed  effects  of  preternatural 
power.  Most  of  those  that  came  under  my  no- 
tice, and  which  the  Indians  attributed  to  preter- 
natural agency,  were  the  effects  of  causes  purely 
natural.  Notwithstanding  these  deplorable  dis- 
orders of  the  soul,  it  is  my  greatest  consolation 
to  reflect,  that  these  superstitious  practices,  in 
consequence  of  the  many  palpable  contradictions 
they  admit,  become  a  spiritual  malady,  the  least 
diflicult  to  cure. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  I  left  the  Mission  of 
the  "  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus,"  accompanied  by 
the  Rev.  Father  Point.  Three  Indian  families, 
desirous  of  visiting  St.  Mary*s,  served  us  for 
guides.  Our  journey  for  some  days,  lay  along 
the  serpentine  course  of  the  river  St.  Ignatius, 
in  the  valley  of  the  North.  The  soil  of  this 
valley  is  for  the  most  part  rich,  and  well  adapt- 
ed to  cultivation,  but  subject  to  frequent  inun- 
dations. Grain  and  potatos  are  here  cultivated 
by  the  Indians  with  great  success.  Father 
Joset,  assisted  by  the  savages,  has  already  en- 
closed and  prepared  for  cultivation,  a  large 
field,  capable  of  affording  sustenance  to  several 
Indian  families.     Our  hopes,   then,   of   seeing 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


20U 


these  poor  Indians  furnished  with  a  plentiful 
supply  of  provisions,  and  their  wandering  habits 
thereby  checked,  will  with  the  blessing  of  God, 
be  realized  at  no  very  distant  day.  To  attain 
the  desirable  object  of  uniting  them  in  villages, 
and  thus  forming  them  to  habits  of  industry, 
we  need,  however,  more  means  than  we  pos- 
sess at  present — we  are  very  much  in  want  of 
seeds  of  various  kinds,  and  of  agricultural  im- 
plements. 

Before  arriving  at  the  snow-capped  chain  of 
mountains,  which  separates  the  CoBur  d*Alenes 
from  the  Flat-Heads,  we  wound  our  way  for 
two  days,  through  forests  almost  impenetrable, 
and  over  immense  beds  of  rock,  always  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  river,  except  where  its 
tortuous  windings  would  lead  us  too  circuitous 
a  route.     So  tortuous  indeed  is  its  course  here, 
that  in  less  than  eight  hours,  we  crossed  it  no 
less  than  forty-four  times.     The  majestic  cedars 
that   shade   the  gorge  at  this   point  are  truly 
prodigious,  most  of  them  measure  from  twenty 
to  thirty  feet  in  circumference,  with  a  propor- 
tionate height,  and  so  numerous,  that    as  the 
rays  of  the    sun  cannot    penetrate    the    dense 
mass,  perpetual  night  may  be  said,  without  ex- 
aggeration, to  reign  here.     1  doubt  whether  the 


*•■■  1 


>', 


\l 


»'•: 


:^-^'''"4. 


III 


*         I 


r.i!i  I 


1^^  i 


270 


ORUGON       MISSIONS. 


owl  could  have  selected  a  more  fitting  abode, 
certainly  none  so  majestic  or  mysterious.  The 
death-like  silence  of  this  glen,  broken  only  by 
the  passing  breeze,  the  occasional  visit  of  some 
wild  animal,  or  the  constant  murmuring  of  the 
rills  from  the  rocky  banks,  impress  the  beholder 
with  feelings  of  a  most  unearthly  yet  pleasing 
nature. 

With  much  difficulty  and  fatigue  we  forced  a 
passage  through  this  dense  mass  of  forest, 
stooping  half  the  time  upon  the  neck  of  the 
horse,  to  avoid  the  low  thorny  branches,  so 
thickly  crossed  together,  that  one  is  inclined  at 
first  sight,  to  abandon  all  hope  of  wedging  his 
way  through  them.  Its  termination  brought  us 
to  the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains.  It 
occupied  us  nearly  another  day  to  ascend  this 
by  a  narrow  winding  path,  which  is  shaded  by 
one  of  finest  forests  in  Oregon.  Towards  sun- 
set we  reached  the  top,  \/here  we  pitched  our 
camp,  within  a  few  paces  of  one  of  those  im- 
mense snow  masses,  that  perpetually  shroud 
this  lofty  chain.  Here  we  enjoyed  a  most 
magnificent  view — the  horizon  for  some  hundred 
miles  around  presented  a  spectacle  of  surpass- 
ing granileur :  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  a 
long  succession  of  mountains,  towering  cliff's. 


^M 


OREGON 


1  SUION  S. 


271 


[g  abode, 
us.  The 
1  only  by 
t  of  some 
ig  of  the 
beholder 
pleasing 

forced  a 

f    forest, 

jk  of  the 

nches,  so 

clined  at 

iging  his 

ought  us 

tains.     It 

;end  this 

laded  by 

irds  sun- 

^hed  our 

lose  im- 

shroud 

a   most 

hundred 

surpass- 

reach,  a 

ig  cliffs, 


and  lofty  pinnacles,  exhibited  their  dazzling  snow- 
capped summits  to  our  astonished  vision.  The 
very  silence  of  this  vast  wilderness  strikes  the 
beholder  with  feelings  of  deep  sublimity  ;  n  ot 
even  a  breeze  stirred  to  break  the  charm  of  this 
enchanting  view.  I  shall  never  forget  the 
splendor  of  the  scene  we  witnessed,  as  the  last 
rays  of  the  setting  sun  were  throwing  their 
full  lustre  upon  the  myriads  of  pinnacles  that 
ranged  far  away  towards  the  distant  horizon. 

The  descent  on  the  eastern  side  of  this  moun- 
tain is  less  abrupt,  presenting  slopes  of  rich 
verdure,  adorned  with  a  great  variety  of  plants 
and  flowers.  This  descent  also  occupied  us  an 
entire  day.  We  next  arrived  at  a  forest,  a 
twin-sister,  if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression, 
of  the  one  I  have  just  described.  Here  the 
river  St.  Francis  Regis  meanders  through  in- 
numerable hoary  cedars,  pine  trees,  and  an  im- 
penetrable thicket  of  bushes  of  every  species. 
With  the  happiest  recollections,  we  finally  en- 
camped on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  in 
the  Flat-Head  valley — the  nursery  of  our  first 
missionary  operations  in  the  Far  West. 

In  my  next,  I  propose  giving  you  some  de- 
tails of  the  present  condition  of  our  first  chil- 
dren  in  God,    the    good   and   deserving  Flat- 


N'iin 


272 


OREO  ON     MISSIONS. 


Heads.     I   recommend   myself  to  God  in   your 
prayers. 

I  remain,  with  profound  respect  and  esteem , 
reverend  and  dear  Father,  your  very  humble 
servant,  and  brother  in  Christ, 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


1      ,s 


-3 


>¥      1 


k 


^od  in  your 

md  esteem, 
Jry  humble 


ST,  S.  J. 


m 


'1 

m 


m  I 


{^ ' 


ft 

i 

W^ 


I 


t/  ii 


4  't 


f»^ 


.tt' 


INSULA    on      KKI)    h'KATMKH. 

OWa/  fV//f/'a/u/  /j/zTr/    uft/orti/  f/i(    Flat -/isae/jf  . 


i 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


273 


No.  XXII. 


LETTER    OF    THE    REV.    FATHER    POINT,    S.    J. 


LtsV 


MISSIONARY  IN  OREGON. 


«    e 


H. 


Village  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus, 
,  1845. 

I  LEARN  by  letters  from  Europe,  that  you  take 
a  lively  interest  in  our  dear  missions.  FVom 
this,  I  conclude  that  you  will  be  very  glad  to 
learn  some  of  those  things  which  are  passing 
amongst  us.  I  take  the  more  pleasure,  because 
I  can  detail  what  my  own  eyes  have  witnessed, 
and  because  I  can  give  a  new  proof  of  a  truth, 
which  you  love  to  extend,  viz.,  that  it  is  to  their 
devotion  to  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus,  that  the 
pastors  of  souls  are  indebted  for  the  consola- 
tions they  enjoy :  this  will  explain  the  wonders 
of  mercy  of  which  they  are  witnesses. 

You  know  already  the  history  of  the  Flat- 
Heads  ;  truly  their  conversion  is  the  result  of  a 
wonderful  outflowing  of  the  riches  of  grace ; 
but  T  do  not  hesitate  to  sav,  that  the  conversion 


%-'\ 


1.    W  i  ■■' 
i  - 


274 


OREGON       MI8SION8. 


-  .J,  •» 
t 


I  Si  U 


f.   ■ 


'-!! 


of  the  Pointed-Hearts  is  a  still  more  striking 
indication  of  God's  love  to  man.  What  were 
these  savfiges  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  century 
ago  ?  They  had  hearts  so  hard,  that  if  their 
first  visiters  have  undertaken  to  give  a  true 
description  of  them,  they  could  not  find  an  ex- 
pression more  just,  than  is  the  singular  name 
which  they  bear  to  this  day.  Their  knowledge 
was  so  limited,  that,  giving  themselves  up  to 
the  worship  of  animals  they  had  no  idea  of  the 
true  God  nor  of  their  soul,  much  less  of  a  future 
life  ;  finally  they  were  a  race  of  men,  so  degene- 
rate that  they  had  barely  two  or  three  notions 
of  the  whole  natural  law,  and  almost  all  were 
strangers  to  it  in  practice. 

What  a  different  aspect  they  now  present !  I 
will  not  say  that  they  are  perfect :  that  would 
be  an  exaggeration  even  in  the  eyes  of  persons 
little  versed  in  the  knowledge  of  the  human 
heart.  Everybody  knows,  that  people  who  are 
converted,  always  retain  something  of  their 
primitive  character,  and  that  the  defects  of 
education  are  not  corrected  except  by  a  long 
course  of  years ;  but  I  say  to  the  glory  of  Him, 
who  can  change  the  hardest  rocks  into  children 
of  Abraham,  that,  at  this  dsiy  fOur  Pointed-Hearts 
are  true  believers. 


ivit  »> 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


275 


c  striking 
Vhat  were 
'  a  century 
at  if  their 
ive  a  true 
Snd  an  ex- 
ular  name 
knowledge 
3lves  up  to 
idea  of  the 
of  a  future 
so  degene- 
iree  notions 
st  all  were 

present !  1 
hat  would 
of  persons 
he  human 
le  who  are 
of  their 
defects    of 

by  a  long 
Iry  of  Him, 
Ito  children 

ied'Hearts 


M 


It  is  only  two  years  since  the  cross  was  planted 
on  their  soil,  and  all,  with  a  very  few  excep- 
tions have  made  their  first  communion. 

About  fifteen  years  ago,  several  missic  naries 
begged  to  be  employed  among  the  savages.  A 
new  doctrine  was  soon  spread  among  the 
Pointed-IIearts,  telling  them  that  there  is  but 
one  God,  who  has,  beyond  the  earth  we  see, 
two  things  which  we  do  not  see  : — a  place  for 
the  good,  and  a  place  for  the  bad ;  that  the  Son 
of  God,  in  all  respects  like  his  Father,  seeing  all 
men  running  in  the  bad  road,  came  down  from 
Heaven  to  put  them  in  the  right  way  ;  but  that 
in  order  to  efl^t'ct  this,  it  was  necessary  for  him 
to  die  upon  a  cross.  One  evening,  all  the  fami- 
lies, who  were  dispersed  in  difi'erent  directions, 
for  fishing,  for  hunting,  and  gathering  roots,  as- 
sembled upon  the  ground  of  an  old  chief  called 
Ignatius,  to  see  the  author  of  this  news.  Re- 
gardless of  fatigue,  they  prolonged  their  sitting 
to  the  silence  of  the  night,  and  listened  to  all 
the  details  of  the  glorious  message. 

God  is  great — Jesus  Christ  is  good  : — two 
truths  the  admission  of  which  seemed  to  be  the 
result  of  the  first  sitting :  was  this,  indeed,  the 
ease  ?  Not  so  much,  perhaps,  as  would  have 
been  desirable  :  for  before  the  families  separat- 


F'i^»« 


I  — .^ 


I 


276 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


(! 


6 


'"» 


( 


■a'''-  ■    (^ 


ed,  Heaven  sent  a  scourge,  which  struck  with 
death  a  great  number  of  them.  At  the  moment 
it  raged  with  the  greatest  violence,  one  of  the 
dying — since  named  Stephen — heard  a  voice 
from  above,  which  said :  "  Cast  down  thy  idols  ; 
adore  Jesus  Christ,  and  thou  shalt  be  cured." 
The  dying  man  believed  the  word,  and  was 
cured.  He  went  about  the  camp  and  related 
what  had  taken  place  :  all  the  sick  who  heard 
him  imitated  his  example,  and  recovered  their 
health.  I  have  this  fact  from  the  mouth  of  the 
savage  who  heard  the  voice  from  heaven,  and 
the  same  has  been  confirmed  by  eye-witnesses, 
who  could  say,  "  I,  myself,  have  been  the  object 
of  that  wonder,  and  my  eyes  have  seen  the 
mountain  at  the  foot  of  which  the  idols  were 
cast  down." 

The  savage  takes  little  notice  of  an  event 
which  does  not  strike  him  in  a  sensible  man- 
ner; but  what  I  have  related  was  marked  by 
two  such  peculiar  characters,  that  it  left  traces 
in  the  memory  of  all.  However,  neither  con- 
stancy nor  reflection  is  to  be  found  in  the  sa- 
vage. After  some  years  of  fidelity  to  the  impres- 
sions received,  the  greater  part  returned  to  their 
former  idolatry.  This  retrograde  movement 
was  accelerated  by  the  medicine-men — a  kind 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


277 


uck  with 
3  moment 
ne  of  the 
[   a  voice 
thy  idols; 
be  cured." 
and   was 
nd  related 
vho  heard 
ered   their 
►uth  of  the 
iaveii,  and 
-witnesses, 
the  object 
!   seen  the 
idols  were 

an    event 
sible  man- 
marked  by 
left  traces 
either  con- 
in  the  sji- 
he  impres- 
ned  to  their 
movement 
en — a  kind 


of  charlatans,  who  set  themselves  up  for  physi- 
cians and  prophets,  and  pretend  to  perform 
wonderful  things,  especially,  to  cure  the  sick  by 
their  skill  and  supernatural  power.  At  the 
word  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  who,  probably,  had 
not  ceased  to  be  an  idolater,  the  men  convoked 
an  assembly  of  those  who  wen;  called  believers, 
in  which  it  was  resolved  to  return  to  their  an- 
cient practices ;  and,  from  that  moment,  the 
animals  of  the  country,  now  become  again 
disine,  re-entered  into  possession  of  their  an- 
cient honors.  The  mass  of  the  tribe,  had, 
indeed,  no  conlidence  in  th<'m ;  but,  either 
through  fear  of  the  medicine-men,  or  by  natural 
curiosity,  they  took  part,  at  least  by  their  pre- 
sence, in  the  sacrilegious  worship  paid  to  them. 
Happily,  choice  souls  were  always  among  them 
to  intercede  with  Heaven  for  their  diduded 
brethren ;  I  know  many,  who,  from  the  time  in 
which  God  was  pleased  to  manifest  himself 
among  them,  have  not  the  least  faults  upon 
their  consciences,  with  which  to  reproach  them* 
selves, 

Such  was  pretty  nearly  the  condition  of  the 
people  when  Providence  sent  among  them  the 
llev.  Father  De  Smet,  His  visit,  the  circum- 
stances of  which  have  been  related  elsewhere, 

13 


i 


n. 


r-,  ...  . 


•  I! 


I 


l-WI  ■  • 


278 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


disposed  them  so  much  in  favor  of  the  Black- 
govms,  that  it  was  determined  I  should  be  sent 
to  their  aid.  Three  months  after,  that  is,  at  the 
close  of  the  hunting  expeditions  of  the  autumn 
of  1842,  I  left  St.  Mary's  to  place  the  new  con- 
verts under  the  protection  of  the  Sacred  Heart 
of  Jesus. 

The  same  day  I  entered   their  territory,  the 
first  Friday  of  November,  I  made  with  three 
chiefs  who   came   to   seek   me,    the   promised 
consecration,  and  on  the  first  Friday  of  Decem- 
ber,  in  the  midst   of  chants  and  prayers,    the 
cross   was   raised   on  the   borders   of  a    lake, 
where  the  poor  savages  had  united  for  fishing. 
Thanks  be  to  God,  we  can  say,  that  the  miracu- 
lous draught  of  St.   Peter  was  spiritually  re- 
newed.    For  they  spoke  no  more  of  their  as- 
semblies of  impostors,  their  diabolical  visions, 
nor  superstitious  ceremonies,  which  had  before 
been  so  common ;  and  most  important  of  all, 
gambling,  which  had  always  occupied  a  great 
portion  of  their  time,  was   two   weeks   after- 
wards, abandoned ;  the  conjugal   bond,  which 
for  centuries,  perhaps,  had  known  among  them 
neither  unity  nor  indissolubility,  was  brought 
back  to  its  primitive  character.      A  beautilul 
sigh'  was  presented  by  the  medicine-men  them- 


% 


%mi 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


279 


B  Black- 
he  sent 
Is,  at  the 
autumn 
lew  con- 
ed Heart 

tory,  the 
ith  three 
promised 
)f  Decem- 
lyers,   the 
f  a    lake, 
or  fishing, 
le  miracu- 
itually  re- 
their  as- 
\1  visions, 
lad  before 
ant  of  all, 
d  a  great 
eks   after- 
nd,  which 
ong  them 
s  brought 
beautiful 
men  them- 


selves, who  with  their  own  hands,  did  justice  to 
the  wretched  instruments  hell  had  used  to  deceive 
them.  During  the  long  nights  of  that  period, 
it  will  not  be  necessary  to  tell  how  many  sacri- 
fices were  made  of  feathers,  wolves*  tails,  stags' 
feet,  deer's  hoofs,  wooden  images,  &c. 

Scarcely  was  the  bad  tree  cut  down  and 
thrown  into  the  fire,  than  a  blessing  on  their 
temporal  affairs  was  united  to  that  of  their 
spiritual.  In  one  day  three  hundred  deer  be- 
came the  prey  of  the  hunters. 

The  first  days  of  spring,  the  reunion  of  the 
people  at  the  place  agreed  on  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  village  was  more  numerous  than  the 
first.  It  was  formed  upon  the  ancient  plans  in 
Paraguay,  and  each  one,  according  to  his 
strength  and  industry,  contributed  towards  its 
construction.  Trees  were  felled,  roads  opened, 
a  church  erected,  and  the  public  fields  were 
sown ;  and,  thanks  to  the  piety  of  our  savages, 
Holy  Week,  Easter,  As<?ension,  and  Pentecost 
were  celebrated  with  becoming  solemnity.  In 
truth,  things  went  so  well,  that  the  enemy  of 
men,  perceiving  bis  prey  escape  him,  redoubled 
his  efforts.  We  experienced  some  loss  in  con- 
sequence of  a  storm;  but  alter  a  partial  de- 


>r! 


.*!*' 


;!«»-'' 


280 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


I-" 


» ,) 


H  ■ 


struction,  the  storm  only  resulted   in  purifying 
the  atmosphere. 

Towards  the  end  of  October,  1844,  one  hun- 
red  families  of  the  Pointed-Hearts  reunited  in 
one  village.  The  sight  of  their  little  lodges 
around  the  house  of  God,  brought  to  mind 
the  touching  idea  of  the  pelican  in  the  desert. 
Young  and  old  united  to  make  their  first  com- 
munion, or  renew  it.  Many  had  already  ac- 
quired a  certain  degree  of  instruction,  but  the 
greater  portion,  especially  of  the  old,  were  far 
from  being  sufficiently  instructed  ;  and  the  time 
the  Black-gown  had  to  prepare  them  before 
the  great  winter  chase,  was  November  and 
December,  for  the  chase  could  not  be  put  off,  it 
is  essential  to  the  life  of  a  savage.  It  was 
necessary,  then,  to  hasten,  and  choose  the 
shortest  method  of  instructing  them. 

Everybody  knows  the  savage  has  the  eye  of 
a  lynx,  and  never  forgets  what  he  has  once 
seen  ;  therefore  when  he  attaches  any  idea  to 
a  sensible  sign,  he  can  always  recall  it  as  soon 
as  he  sees  the  sign  under  his  eyes ;  thus  thry 
have  a  wonderful  facility  in  speaking  by  signs, 
and  a  great  inclination  to  render  their  thoughts 
by  images:  upon  this  faculty  I  based  my 
system  of  instruction.     I  made  images,  repre- 


1 


lurifying 

one  hun- 
inited  in 
e  lodges 
to    mind 
le  desert, 
first  com- 
eady   ac- 
i,  but  the 

were  far 
1  the  time 
;m  before 
mber   and 

put  off,  it 
It  was 
hoose    the 

the  eye  of 
;  has  once 
ny  idea  to 
it  as  soon 
thus  they 
g  by  signs, 
ir  thoughts 
based    my 
ges,  repre- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


5^81 


senting  what  they  ought  to  believe.  Some  of 
these  represented  the  faults  and  vices  they 
ought  to  shun,  others  the  virtues  they  should 
practise.  After  this,  with  a  little  stick  in  my 
hand,  I  explained  my  representations,  and  tried 
to  adapt  myself  to  the  understanding  of  all. 

The  success  of  this  method  surpassed  my  ex- 
pectation :  for,  having  made  the  most  intelligent 
repeat  what  I  had  said,  I  had  the  pleasure  to  see 
that  they  lost  nothing  of  what  was  essential, 
and  immediately  I  formed  classes  for  repetition. 
The  first  repetition  was  made  immediately  after 
the  instruction  ;  the  second  in  their  lodges,  the 
third  by  the  chiefs  in  their  harangues,  and  the 
fourth  at  the  beginning  of  the  next  instruction. 

The  plan  was  insisted  upon,  and  rapid  pro- 
gress made,  not  only  in  their  instruction,  but 
also  in  their  morals.  Those  who  exhorted 
joined  to  their  exhortations  the  force  of  private 
example,  so  that  the  mass  of  the  people  seemed 
to  be  led  on,  by  attraction. 

From  the  9th  of  September  to  the  time  in 
which  I  write — a  period  of  six  months  not  one 
single  fault,  which  can  be  called  serious,  so  far 
as  my  knowledge  extends,  has  been  committed 
in  the  village  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus  ; 
and  a  great  many,  who  reproached  themselves 


wf 


¥ 


f  v"  ♦ 


0': 


28'-i 


OREUON     MISSIONS 


^ 


^•t/l; 


w*; 


\  a^  , 


[t:- 


-i- 


■I'' 


with  light  failings,  cease  not  to  make  public 
confession  in  terms  of  grief,  which  it  would  be 
desirable  to  see  the  greater  culprits  exhibit  at 
the  tribunal  of  penance.  I  h  ive  seen  husbands 
come  after  their  wives,  and  mothers  after  their 
daughters,  not  to  excuse  the  accusations  which 
they  had  made,  but  to  acknowledge  that  their 
want  of  patience  and  humility  were  the  cause 
of  the  failings  of  the  others. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  all  the  adults, 
who  had  not  yet  received  baptism,  and  all  who 
united  to  prepare  for  their  first  communion,  not 
one  was  judged  unworthy  to  receive  the  sacra- 
ments. Their  simplicity,  piety,  charity,  and 
especially  their  faith,  were  admirable.  And 
truly  all  these  virtues  were  necessary  for  these 
good  old  men,  who,  for  the  sake  of  learning 
their  prayers,  had  to  become  the  scholars  of 
their  children,  and  for  the  children  to  enable 
them  to  do  violence  to  their  natural  vivacity, 
while  they  slowly  communicated  to  their  old 
parents  and  grand-parents,  a  part  of  what  they 
had  learned ;  and  the  chiefs  would  rise  at  the 
dawn  of  the  day,  and  sometimes  in  the  middle 
of  the  night,  to  exhort  their  people  to  weep  over 
their  sins. 

I  have  spoken  of  their  faith.     How  pure  and 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


283 


public 
ould  be 
hibit  at 
usbands 
ter  their 
IS  which 
lat  their 
be  cause 

e  adults, 
[all  who 
nion,  not 
he  sacra- 
rity,    and 
le.     And 
for  these 
learning 
jholars  of 
to  enable 
vivacity, 
their  old 
vhat  they 
se  at  the 
he  middle 
weep  over 


pure 


and 


above  all,  how  confiding  it  was !  The  first  idea, 
neccessary  to  impress  on  their  minds  was,  that 
the  goodness  of  God  is  not  less  great  than  his 
power,  and  they  were  so  convinced  of  it,  that 
they  begged  God  to  perform  miracles,  as  they 
would  beg  their  daily  bread.  They  were  told, 
that  the  sacrament  of  extreme  unction  had  the 
power  not  only  to  purify  the  soul,  but  to  restore 
health  to  the  body  ;  it  did  not  occur  to  them  to 
doubt  of  the  one  more  than  of  the  other. 

They  have  great  faith  in  the  sign  of  the  cross. 
They  are  accustomed  to  make  it  at  the  begin- 
ning of  their  prayers,  and  of  all  their  principal 
actions.  Not  satisfied  with  making  it  them- 
selves, their  children  can  scarcely  pronounce  a 
word,  before  they  teach  them  to  articulate  the 
words  of  the  sign  of  the  cross.  I  saw  a  father 
and  mother  bending  over  the  cradle  of  an  only 
son,  who  was  about  to  die.  They  made  their 
best  efibrts  to  suggest  to  him  fc  make  the  sign 
of  the  cross,  and  the  child  having  raised  his 
little  hand  to  his  forehead,  made  the  consoling 
sign  and  immediately  expired. 

A  woman,  sitting  near  the  grave  of  her  only 
daughter,  was  conversing  with  her  little  boy, 
whom  she  had  that  day  presented  at  the  bap- 
tismal font.     "  See,"  said  she,  "  my  child,  how 


^f> 


fV 


't-v 


'I 


284 


OREGON      MIHSIONS. 


happy  it  is  to  die  after  being  baptized  !  If  you 
should  die  to-day,  you  would  see  again  our 
little  dementia."  And  the  pious  mother  ex- 
hibited such  a  calmness  in  her  tone  of  voice 
and  countenance,  that  she  seemed  to  have  a 
foretaste  of  the  happy  abode  of  which  she 
spoke. 

Our  infant  church  presented  the  picture  of 
the  purest  virtues,  when  the  happy  period'  for 
which  she  sighed  was  approaching.  The  week 
preceding  the  celebration  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  of  the  blessed  Virgin  Mary,  was 
devoted  to  prepare  the  people  for  the  reception 
of  holy  communion.  The  time,  of  course,  did 
not  admit  of  frequent  instructions,  long  prayers 
and  general  confessions.  The  good  Father 
Joset  gave  instructions.  Their  prayers  were 
fervent,  and  experience  had  already  taught  them 
the  necessity  of  true  sorrow  for  past  sins,  which 
they  exhibited  in  a  lively  manner  at  the  con- 
fessional. I  used  all  the  exertions  I  could  to 
prepare  those  whose  understandings  appeared 
more  limited  than  the  others;  and  their  piety, 
calmness  and  perseverance,  have  put  to  flight 
all  the  fears  which  rested  on  my  mind.  The 
church  was  small  ;  it  measured  in  length  fifty 
feet,  and  in  breadth  twenty-four.    It  was  indeed, 


I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


285 


If  you 
ain  our 
her  ex- 
of  voice 

have  a 
lich    she 

icture  of 
eriod*  for 
he  week 
maculate 
ary,  was 
reception 
mrse,  did 
g  prayers 
Father 
ers  were 
[ght  them 
|ns,  which 
the  con- 
could  to 
appeared 
ieir  piety, 
It  to  flight 
Ld.     The 
ngth  fifty 
[as  indeed, 


poor,  but  from  every  part  of  the  wall  and  ceil- 
ing, were   suspended  rich   festoons   of  leaves. 
While   the  stars  were  still  shining  in  the  firma- 
ment, the  chant,  Lauda  Siorif  was  heard.     But 
who  sung  that  divine  canticle  ?     The  savages, 
who  lately  addressed  their  prayers  only  to  the 
animals  of  their  mountains.     Go  to  the  foot  of 
the  altar  and  see  the  new  adorers,  bowing  their 
heads  before  the  Eternal  One.     The  representa- 
tion of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus  and  of  the  Cross 
on  which  he  expired,  raised  their  thoughts  to 
the  abode  of  glory,  and  caused  them  to  centre 
there  all  their  affections.    They  approached  the 
altar  to   receive    holy    communion    with    the 
greatest  order  and  devotion.      It   was   Father 
Joset  who  had  happiness  to  distribute  to  them 
the  bread  of    life, — a  happiness,  so  much  the 
more  felt,  as  he  had  just  arrived  among  them. 
Before  they  approached  the  holy  table,  he  ad- 
dressed them  a  few  words ;  but  the  tender  piety 
apparent  in  all  at  the  moment  of  communicat- 
ing, made  him  fear  to  spoil  the  work  of  God  by 
adding   more   words   of  his  own,   and   he   left 
them  to  their  own  devotion. 

We  recited  the  usual  prayers  for  the  inten- 
tions of  the  Church,  and  closed  the  morning  ser- 

13* 


.:«r' 


•    .  ~f 


^11 


Wr 


j-'O 


'  s      t. 


■Hi 


ir,  b 


»« 


/.  .f 


286 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


vices  by  chanting  again  the  Lauda  Sion,     The 
high  mass  was  celebrated  at  ten  o'clock. 

In  the  evening  took  place  the  renovation  of 
the  promises  of  baptism.  The  church  was 
illuminated,  at  least  as  well  as  our  poverty 
would  permit.  The  sacrament  of  baptism  was 
conferred  on  twelve  adults.  After  a  prepara- 
tory instruction,  instead  of  the  ordinary  formu- 
las, which  were  a  little  difficult  to  be  trans- 
lated into  the  Indian  language,  all  of  them,  to 
show  their  constant  fidelity,  recited  three  acts 
of  love  to  God.  In  hearing  them,  we  remarked, 
that  like  the  prince  of  the  Apostles,  they  replied 
to  the  threefold  enquiry  of  their  Saviour.  The 
holy  sacrament  was  exposed.  To  the  ex- 
pression of  unanimous  and  forcible  love,  their 
looks  of  piety  directed  towards  the  altar,  seemed 
to  add:  O  beauty!  always  ancient,  always 
new !  too  late  have  we  loved  thee  ;  but  we 
will  love  thee  forever  !  The  benediction  of  the 
blessed  sacrament  followed,  and  closed  that 
great  and  beautiful  day,  which  had  been  so 
rich  in  every  kind  of  spiritual  gifts.  It  was 
with  difficulty  that  these  good  souls  left  the 
place,  which  had,  that  day,  been  the  witness  of 
their  prayers  and  promises.  The  Pointed-Hearts 
exhibited  by  their  prayers,  their  canticles,  and 


OR£U^N        IMIUaiONS. 


287 


u     The 

ition  of 
ch  was 
poverty 
sm  was 
prepara- 
y  formu- 
)e  trans- 
them,  to 
iree  acts 
emarked, 
ly  replied 
MT.    The 
the   ex- 
>ve,  their 
tr,  seemed 
,    always 
;   but  we 
on  of  the 
osed  that 
been  so 
It  was 
s  left  the 
ivitness  of 
;ed-Hearts 

icles,  and 


their  holy  conversations,  a  foretaste  of  heavenly 
joys.  They  often  came  to  visit  the  Black- 
gowns.  Some  days,  I  was  surrounded  by  these 
visitors.  They  all  waited  in  profound  silence, 
till  I  had  finished  my  office.  One  of  them 
then  chanted  the  first  verse  of  Lauda  Sion,  in 
which  all  the  voices  joined.  Thus,  it  is  a  con- 
soling truth,  that,  at  the  extremities  of  the 
heathen  world,  as  well  as  in  the  centre  of  civi- 
lization, the  church  puts  forth  a  united  effort 
for  the  conversion  and  salvation  of  mankind. 
I  am,  devotedly  yours,  in  Christ, 

N.  POINT. 


W^' 


288 


OREGOIf      MISSIONS 


No.  XXIII. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


\f 


Flat-Head  Camp,  Yellowstone  River, 
September  6th,  1846. 

Rev.   and  Dear  Father  Provincial, — After  an 
absence  of  about  eighteen  months,  employed  in 
visiting  the  various  distant  tribes,  and  extend- 
ing among  them  the  kingdom  of  Christ,  I  re- 
turned to  the  nursery,  so  to  speak,  of  our  Apos- 
tolic labors  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.     Judge  of 
the  delight  I  experienced,  when    I  found  the 
little  log  church,  we  built  five  years  ago,  about 
to  be  replaced  by  another  which  will  bear  com- 
parison with  those  in  civilized  countries,  mate- 
rials, everything  ready  to  commence  erecting  it, 
the  moment  they  can  procure  some  ropes  to 
place  the  heavy  timbers  on  the  foundation.  An- 
other agreeable  surprise,  however,  yet  awaited 
me  ;  a  mill  had  been  constructed,  destined  to 
contribute  largely  to  the  increasing  wants  of 
the  surrounding  country.    It  is  contrived  to  dis- 


I'  = 


(tone  River, 
,  1846. 

A.fter  an 
jloyed  in 
i  extend- 
ist,  I  re- 
)ur  Apos- 
Judge  of 
bund  the 
go,  about 
)ear  com- 
ies,  mate- 
recting  it, 

ropes  to 
ttion.  An- 
it  awaited 
estined  to 

wants  of 
ved  to  dis- 


^ 


-jf-r 


¥■ 

i 

I 

I. 
\   . 

i 

t 

I- 

r 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


289 


^ 


chari^e  the  two-fold  charitable  object  of  feeding 
the  hungry  and  sheltering  the  houseless.  The 
flour  mill  grinds  ten  or  twelve  bushels  in  a  day  ; 
and  the  saw  mill  furnishes  an  abundant  supply 
of  plank,  posts,  etc.,  for  the  public  and  private 
building  of  the  nation  settled  here.  Indeed,  the 
location  stood  much  in  need  of  so  useful  a  con- 
cern. The  soil  yields  abundant  crops  of  wheat, 
oats  and  potatos — the  rich  prairie  here  is 
capable  of  supporting  thousands  of  cattle.  Two 
large  rivulets,  now  almost  useless,  can,  with  a 
little  labor,  be  made  to  irrigate  the  fields,  gar- 
dens, and  orchards  of  the  village.  The  stock  at 
present  on  this  farm,  consists  of  about  forty 
head  of  cattle,  a  fast-increasing  herd  of  hogs 
and  a  prolific  progeny  of  domestic  fowl.  In 
addition  to  the  mill,  twelve  log  houses,  of  regu- 
lar construction,  have  been  put  up.  Hence, 
you  can  form  some  idea  of  the  temporal  advan- 
tages enjoyed  by  the  Flat-heads  of  St.  Mary's 
village. 

St.  Mary's,  or  Bitter-Root  valley,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  mountains,  presenting,  throughout 
its  whole  extent  of  about  two  hundred  miles, 
numerous  grazing:,  but  few  arable  tracts  of 
land.  Irrigation,  either  by  natural  or  artificial 
means,  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the  cultivation 


290 


OREG  ON       MISSIONS 


of  the  soil,  in  consequence  of  the  long  summer 
drought  that  prevails  in  this  region,  commenc- 
ing in  April  and  ending  only  in  October.  This 
difficulty,  however,  if  the  country  should  be 
ever  thickly  settled,  can  be  easily  obviated,  as 
the  whole  region  is  well  supplied  with  numer- 
ous streams  and  rivulets.  These  remarks  apply 
to  the  valleys  contiguous  to  St.  Mary's,  the 
general  aspect  of  them  differing  perhaps  but 
slightly  in  regard  to  the  heights  of  the  moun- 
tains, the  colossal  dimensions  of  the  rocks,  or 
the  vast  extent  of  the  plains. 

After  what  has  been  said  in  my  former  letters 
in  relation  to  religion,  little  now  remains  that 
has  a  direct  reference  to  it ;  but  you  will  learn 
with  much  pleasure,  that  the  improvements 
made  in  the  Flat-head  village,  afford  the  mis- 
sionary stationed  there  great  facilities  for  prose- 
cuting successfully  the  grand  object  of  his  de- 
sires, viz.,  the  eternal  happiness  of  the  poor 
benighted  Indian  tribes,  placed  beyond  the 
reach  of  his  immediate  influence.  The  village 
is  now  the  centre  of  attraction  to  all  the  neigh- 
boring, and  many  of  the  distant  tribes.  The 
missionary  always  avails  himself  of  these  occa- 
sional visits,  to  convey  to  them  the  glad  tidings 
of  salvation.     Among  the  recent  visitors  were, 


g  summer 
commenc- 
ber.  This 
should  be 
>viated,  as 
ith  numer- 
arks  apply 
[ary's,  the 
5rhaps  but 
the  moun- 
i  rocks,  or 

mer  letters 
mains  that 
L  will  learn 
provements 
•d  the  mis- 
s  for  prose- 
:  of  his  de- 
f  the  poor 
^eyond  the 
rhe  village 
[  the  neigh- 
ribes.  The 
these  occa- 
^lad  tidings 
iitors  were, 


...  'i.fei-::.r 


ir 


■-X 


■i » 


') ,    t 


'      I 


\'.    . 

ff 

i 

1 

\ 

.     'ill 

1 

II' 

% 

1 :- 

( 
* 

1 ' 
! 

• 

-2"J 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


201 


»^ti 


the  great  chief  of  the  Snake  Indians  with  his 
band  of  warriors ;  the  Banax  and  Nez-Perces, 
conducted  by  several  of  their  chiefs, — even  seve- 
ral bands  of  Black-Feet ;  besides  these,  there 
were  also,  on  their  return  from  the  great  hunt, 
almost  the  whole  tribe  of  the  Pends-d'Oreilles, 
belonging  to  the  station  of  St.  Francis  Borgia. 
These  last  in  particular,  the  greater  part  of 
whom  I  baptized  last  year,  may  be  said  to  rival 
the  zeal  of  the  Flat-Heads  in  the  practice  of 
their  religious  duties. 

After  the  festival  of  Easter,  the  abundant 
supply  of  provisions,  in  the  granaries  and  cel- 
lars of  the  village,  enabled  the  minister  to  invite 
all  the  visitors  present  to  a  feast,  consisting  of 
potatos,  parsnips,  turnips,  beets,  beans,  peas, 
and  a  great  variety  of  meats,  of  which  the 
greater  portion  of  the  guests  had  never  before 
tasted.  Among  the  industrial  products  which 
are  mainly  owing  to  the  skill  and  assiduity  of 
their  present  pastor,  Father  Mengarini,  I  must 
not  forget  to  mention  a  kind  of  sugar,  extracted 
from  the  potato. 

Let  us  next  turn  to  the  improved  condition  of 
the  people  themselves.  Polygamy — or  rather  a 
connection,  if  possible,  still  more  loose — is  now, 
thank  God,  entirely  abolished  among  our  newly- 


if 


■■'( 


t'  f<'      '' 


w%> 


J'  r>- 


o 


^1.; 


»    t- 


i' 


292 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


converted  Indians;  there  is,  consequently,  an 
evident  increase  of  population.  The  reckless 
abandonment  of  the  helpless  infant — ^the  capri- 
cious discarding  of  wife  and  children — the  wan- 
ton effusion  of  human  blood — are  no  longer 
known  amongst  them.  Our  feelings  are  not 
outraged  by  the  brutal  practice,  heretofore  so 
commonly  witnessed,  of  a  father  considering  a 
horse  a  fair  exchange  for  his  daughter ;  the 
justice  of  allowing  the  young  Indian  maiden  to 
choose  her  future  partner  for  life  is  now  uni- 
versally allowed ; — the  requisite  care  of  their 
offspring  is  regarded  in  its  proper  light,  as  a 
Christian  duty  ; — attention  is  paid  to  the  wants 
of  the  sick  ; — changes  of  treatment,  with  the 
remedies  administered  according  to  our  advice, 
have  probably  been  the  means,  under  Provi- 
dence, of  rescuing  many  from  premature  death. 
The  long-cherished  vindictive  feelings  which  so 
frequently  led  to  depopulating  wars,  are  now  sup- 
planted by  a  Christian  sense  of  justice,  which,  if 
unfortunately  compelled  to  take  up  arms,  does 
so  only  to  repel  unjust  aggression  or  defend  their 
inherent  rights,  but  always  with  the  fullest  con- 
fidence in  the  protecting  arm  of  Heaven. 

Indeed  their  unbounded  confidence  in  the  God 
of  battle,  is  well  rewarded  ;  a  truth  which  the 


l 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


293 


tly,  an 
eckless 
;  capri- 
le  wan- 
longer 
aire  not 
[)fore  so 
lering  a 
er;  the 
aiden  to 
ow  uni- 
of  their 
;ht,  as  a 
le  wants 
with  the 
r  advice, 
T  Provi- 
re  death, 
which  so 
ow  sup- 
which,  if 
ms,  does 
'end  their 
lest  con- 

5n. 

the  God 
[hich  the 


>. 

i 


enemies  of  the  Flat-Heads  invariably  acknow- 
ledge. "  The  medicine  of  the  Black-gowns,"  (an 
expression  synonymous  with  the  true  religion,) 
"  is,"  say  they,  "  the  strongest  of  all."  Did  time 
permit,  I  could  adduce  almost  innumerable  in- 
stances to  confirm  the  belief  universally  enter- 
tained here,  that  Almighty  God  visibly  protects 
them  in  the  wars  they  are  compelled  to  wage 
with  the  hostile  tribes.  A  few  of  these,  for  the 
authenticity  of  which  I  can  vouch,  may  suffice 
for  the  present. 

In  1840,  when  threatened  by  a  formidable 
band  of  Black-Feet,  amounting  to  nearly  eight 
hundred  warriors,  the  Flat-Heads  and  Pends- 
d'Oreilles,  scarcely  numbering  sixty,  betook 
themselves  to  prayer,  imploring  the  aid  of  Hea- 
ven, which  alone  could  save  them  in  the  un- 
equal contest.  Confident  of  success,  they  rose 
from  their  knees  in  the  presence  of  their  ene- 
emies,  and  engaged  the  overwhelming  odds 
against  them.  The  battle  lasted  five  days. 
The  Black-Feet  were  defeated,  leaving  eighty 
warriors  dead  upon  the  field  ;  while  the  Flat- 
Heads  and  Pends-d'  Oreilles  sustained  a  loss  of 
only  one  man ;  who,  however,  survived  the 
battle  four  months,  and  had  the  happiness  of 
receiving  baptism  the  day  before  his  death. 


,  I'', 


m  ^ 


m. 


Ik    I  ■' 


i  :■ 


t  >• 


Mil 


294 


UREUON      MISSIONS. 


In  1842,  four  Pends-d'Oreilles  and  a  Pointed 
Heart  were  met  and  immediately  attacked  by  a 
party  of  Black-Feet.  At  the  first  onset,  the 
Black-Feet  had  to  deplore  the  loss  of  their 
chief.  Aroused  by  the  noise  of  the  musketry, 
the  camp  of  the  Pends-d'Oreilles  rushed  to  the 
assistance  of  their  companions,  and  without  los- 
ing a  single  man,  completely  routed  the  enemy. 
Their  escape  is  the  more  remarkable,  as  rush- 
ing into  the  entrenchments  of  the  Black-Feet, 
they  received  a  volley  of  shot  pou  jd  in  upon 
them  by  the  enemy. 

The  Flat-Heads  were  again  attacked,  during 
the  winter  hunt  of  1845,  by  a  party  of  the  Banax, 
which,  though  outnumbering  them  nearly  three 
times,  they  soon  put  to  flight,  with  the  loss  of 
three  of  the  Banax  party.  The  Flat-Heads  ac- 
knowledge that  the  Banax  are  the  bravest  of 
their  enemies ;  yet  this  did  not  deter  them, 
though  but  seven  in  number,  from  fighting  a 
whole  village  of  the  latter,  that  had  rashly  vio- 
lated the  rights  of  hospitality. 

During  the  summer  hunt  of  the  same  year, 
the  united  camp  of  Flat-Heads  and  Pends-d'O- 
reilles,  when  theatened,  hesitated  not  a  moment 
to  engage  with  a  band  of  Black-Feet  four  times 
their  number.     The  latter,  fearing  the  "  medi- 


jf 


if' 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


295 


^ointed 
edbya 
let,  the 
if  their 
dsketry, 
d  to  the 
lOUt  los- 

5  enemy, 
as  rush- 
,ck-Feet, 
in  upon 

d,  during 
lc  Banax, 
trly  three 
e  loss  of 
leads  ac- 
ravest  of 
;er  them, 
ghting  a 
,shly  vio- 

\me  year, 

fends-d'O- 

moment 

four  times 

le  **  medi- 


cine of  the  Black-gowns,"  skulked  around  their 
enemies,  avoiding  an  open  fight.  The  former 
perceiving  this,  pretended  flight  'n  order  to  draw 
the  Black-Feet  '  ito  the  open  plain:  the  snare 
succeeded;  a  ,d  the  Flat-Heads  and  Pends-d'O- 
reilles  suddenly  wheeling,  attacked  and  repulsed 
them  with  considerable  loss,  driving  the  enemy 
before  them  in  hot  pursuit,  as  they  would  a  herd 
of  buffaloes.  Twenty-three  Black-Feet  war- 
riors lay  dead  on  the  field,  after  the  engage- 
ment, while  the  Pends-d'Oreilles  lost  but  three, 
and  the  Flat-Heads  only  one. 

I  shall  close  these  sketches  of  Indian  warfare, 
so  remarkably  evincing,  as  they  do,  the  special 
protection  of  Heaven,  with  an  account  of  an  en- 
gagement which,  as  it  was  the  occasion  of  my 
first  interview  with  the  Black-Feet,  and  by  its 
consequences  contributed  much  towards  my  fa- 
vourable reception  among  them,  will  not  I  trust, 
prove  entirely  devoid  of  interest,  if  given  a 
little  more  in  detail. 

In  1846,  while  engaged  in  one  of  these  hunt- 
ing excursions,  the  camp  of  the  Flat-Heads  was 
reinforced  by  thirty  lodges  of  the  Nez-perces, 
and  a  dozen  lodges  of  the  Black-Feet  at  their  own 
.solicitation.  The  Flat-Heads  encamped  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Crows,  purposely  to  renew 


If! 


m 


4-'::-r'-' 

4 

ill 

■V      ■ 

^■^^^9 

296 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


the  terms  of  peace,  if  the  latter  felt  so  disposed. 
The  Crows,  perceiving  in  the  united  camp,  the 
Nez-Perces  and  Black-Feet,  with  whom  they 
were  at  war,  and  knowing  their  own  superior- 
ity both  in  numbers  and  bodily  strength,  (they 
are  the  most  robust  of  the  Indian  tribes)  rushed 
into  it  like  a  torrent,  evidently  more  anxious  to 
provoke  a  contest  than  to  make  overtures  of 
peace.  The  calm  remonstrances  of  the  Flat- 
Heads,  and  the  wise  admonitions  of  their  own 
chief,  were  lost  upon  the  now  almost  infuriated 
mutinous  band  of  the  Crows. 

If  the  threatened  outbreak  had  occurred  at 
that  moment,  it  is  probable  that  the  whole 
united  camp  would  have  been  massacred  in  the 
hand-fight,  for  which  evidently  the  Crows  came 
prepared,  with  loaded  guns  and  other  destruc- 
tive weapons,  \  hile  the  Flat-Heads  and  the 
c  hers  were  totally  unprovided.  At  this  critical 
juncture,  fortunately,  indeed  I  may  say  pro- 
videntially, my  interpreter  Gabriel,  and  a  Pend- 
d'Oreille  named  Charles,  forced  their  way  breath- 
less into  the  disordered  camp,  and  announced 
the  arrival  of  the  Black-gown  who  had  visited 
them  four  years  ago.  The  alarming  scene  they 
witnessed  was  indeed  what  they  had  expected 
for  as  we  travelled  to  overtake  the  Flat-Head 


OREGON      M  19  t  I  Oh.  a. 


297 


sposed. 
mp,  the 
n   they 
aperior- 
h,  (they 
)  rushed 
xious  to 
tures  of 
he  Flat- 
leir  own 
ifuriated 

curred  at 
le  whole 
•ed  in  the 
>ws  came 
destruc- 
and  the 
is  critical 
say  pro- 
d  a  Pend- 
,y  breath- 
■nnounced 
id  visited 
cene  they 
expected 
'lat-Head 


<*\v 

cks 


camp  at  the  place  designed  )r  thei  inter 
with  the  Crows,  we  perceived  from  thr 
of  their  daily  encampments,  that  some  1  ick 
Feet  and  Pends-d'Oreilles  were  with  the  Fhit- 
Heads ;  we  accordingly  feared  a  collision  would 
result  from  the  interview.  I  therefore  despatch- 
ed with  all  possible  speed,  Gabriel  and  Charles, 
to  announce  my  arrival.  Well  did  they  execute 
the  commission — they  rode  almost  at  full  gallop 
during  a  whole  day  and  night,  performing  in 
this  short  period  a  journey  which  occupied  the 
camp  fourteen  days.  This  intelligence  roused 
the  Crow  chiefs  to  an  energetic  exercise  of  their 
authority.  They  now  seized  the  first  missiles 
at  hand,  and  enforced  the  weight  of  their  argu- 
ments upon  their  mutinous  subjects,  as  long  as 
there  was  left  in  the  united  camp  the  back  of  a 
Crow  on  which  to  inflict  punishment.  This 
forced  separation,  though  it  may  have  checked 
the  present  ebullition,  could  not  be  of  long  du- 
ration. It  needed  but  a  spark  to  rekindle  their 
hostile  dispositions  into  open  war.  The  next 
day,  as  if  to  provoke  a  rupture,  the  disaff'ected 
Crows  stole  thirty  horses  from  the  Flat-Heads. 
Two  innocent  persons  were  unfortunately 
charged  with  the  crime,  and  punished.  The  mis- 
take being  discovered,  the  amende  honorable  was 


-»? 


I: 

kh    ",■■ 


eft  V 


298 


OREGON       MISS  IONS 


made,  but  to  no  purpose.  The  Flat-Heads, 
aware  of  their  dangerous  position,  employed  the 
interval  in  fortifying  their  camp,  stationing  their 
women  and  children  in  a  place  of  safety,  and 
arming  themselves  for  the  contest.  An  im- 
mense cloud  of  dust  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Crow  camp  at  ten  o'clock,  announced  the 
expected  attack.  On  they  came,  with  the  im- 
petuosity of  an  avalanche,  until  within  musket 
shot  of  the  advanced  guard  of  the  allied  camp, 
who  had  just  risen  to  their  feet  to  listen  to  a 
few  words  addressed  them  by  their  chief,  Stiet- 
tietlotso,  and  to  meet  the  foe.  "My  friends," 
said  Moses,  ( the  name  I  gave  him  in  baptism  ) 
"  if  it  be  the  will  of  God,  we  shall  conquer — if 
it  be  not  his  will,  let  us  humbly  submit  to  what- 
ever it  shall  please  his  goodness  to  send  us. 
Some  of  us  must  expect  to  fall  in  this  contest : 
if  there  be  any  one  here  unprepared  to  die,  let 
him  retire  ;  in  the  meanwhile  let  us  constantly 
keep  Him  in  mind."  He  had  scarcely  finished 
speaking,  when  the  fire  of  the  enemy  was  re- 
turned by  his  band,  with  such  terrible  effect 
as  to  make  them  shift  their  mode  of  attack  into 
another,  extremely  fatiguing  to  their  horses. 
After  the  battle  had  raged  for  some  time  in  this 
way,  Victor,  the  grand  chief  of  the  Flat-Heads, 


I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


299 


-Heads, 
)yed  the 
ng  their 
ety,  and 
An    im- 
d  of  the 
ced   the 
the  im- 
.  musket 
3d  camp, 
;ten  to  a 
lef,  Stiet- 
friends," 
baptism  ) 
kquer — if 
to  what- 
send  us. 
contest : 
o  die,  let 
onstantly 
f  finished 
T  was  re- 
de  effect 
tack  into 
r  horses, 
le  in  this 
at-Heads, 


perceiving  the  embarrassed  position  of  the  ene- 
my, cried  out:  "  Now,  my  men,  mount  your  best 
horses,  and  charge  them,"  The  manoeuvre  was 
successful.  The  Crows  fled  in  great  disorder, 
the  Flat-Heads  abandoning  the  pursuit  only  at 
sun-down,  when  they  had  driven  the  enemy  two 
miles  from  their  camp. 

Fourteen  warriors  of  the  Crows  fell  in  the 
engagement,  and  nine  were  severely  wounded, 
as  we  subsequently  learned  from  three  Black- 
Feet  prisoners,  who  availed  themselves  of  their 
capturers'  defeat  to  recover  their  liberty.  On 
the  part  of  the  allied  camp,  only  one  was  killed, 
the  son  of  a  Nez-Perce  chief,  who  fell  by  the 
hand  of  a  Crow  chief,  in  so  cowardly  a  manner, 
that  the  indignation  of  the  allied  camp  was  at 
once  raised  into  immediate  action — it  was  in 
fact,  the  first  shot  fired  and  the  first  blood 
drawn  on  either  side  ;  the  boy  was  yet  quite  a 
child.  Besides  this  loss,  though  the  engage- 
ment lasted  for  several  hours,  only  three  were 
wounded,  two  of  them  so  slightly  that  by  appli- 
cation of  the  remedies  I  brought  with  me,  they 
recovered  in  a  short  time  ;  the  third  died  a  few 
days  after  my  arrival  in  the  camp. 

This  defeat  was  the  more  mortifying  to  the 
Crows,  as  they  had  been  continually  boasting 


Hf ^  ,  wv-  -'^ 

mr?  '   -^ 

V  '    '                     <■ 

l '     ■ 

k                 ■■  •'■ 

V           •                       \ 

i  ,'«       ...     , 

r 


t 


s 


1* 


300 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


of  their  superior  prowess  in  war,  and  taunting 
their  enemies  with  the  most  insulting,  opprobri- 
ous epithets.  They  had  besides,  forcibly  and 
most  unjustly  drawn  on  the  engagement. 

Indeed,  I  look  upon  the  miraculous  escape  of 
our  Christian  warriors,  in  this  fierce  contest, 
as  further  evidence  of  the  peculiar  protection  of 
Heaven ;  especially  when  I  consider  the  numer- 
ous instances  of  individual  bravery,  perhaps  I 
should  say  reckless  daring,  displayed  on  the 
part  of  the  allied  camp.  The  son  of  a  Flat- 
Head  chief  named  Raphael,  quite  a  youth,  burn- 
ing to  engage  in  the  contest,  requested  his  fa- 
ther to  let  him  have  his  best  horse.  To  this  the 
father  reluctantly  consented,  as  the  boy  had 
been  rather  weak  from  sickness.  When  mount- 
ed, off  he  bounded  like  an  arrow  from  the  bow, 
and  the  superior  mettle  of  his  steed  soon  brought 
him  close  upon  the  heels  of  a  large  Crow  chief, 
who,  turning  his  head  round  to  notice  his  pur- 
suer, pulled  up  his  horse  to  punish  the  temerity 
of  the  boy,  at  the  same  time  bending  to  escape 
the  arrow  then  levelled  at  him.  The  boy  must 
have  shot  the  arrow  with  enormous  force,  for  it 
entered  under  the  lower  left  rib,  the  barb  pass- 
ing  out  under  the  right  shoulder,  leaving  noth- 
ing but  the  feathers  to  be  seen  where  it  entered. 


1 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


301 


taunting 
)pprobri- 
;ibly  and 

It. 

iscape  of 
}  contest, 
tection  of 
le  numer- 
perhaps  I 
d   on   the 
►f  a  Flat- 
»uth,  burn- 
ed his  fa- 
^0  this  the 
5   boy  had 
len  mount- 
n  the  bow, 
n  brought 
row  chief, 
e  his  pur- 
e  temerity 
to  escape 
boy  must 
brce,  for  it 
|barb  pass- 
ving  noth- 
it  entered. 


The  chief  fell  dead.  In  an  instant  a  volley  was 
poured  in  upon  the  boy — his  horse  fell  perfectly 
riddled,  with  the  rider  under  him. — He  was 
stunned  by  the  fall,  and  lay  to  all  appearance 
dead.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  Indians, 
of  inflicting  a  heavy  blow  upon  the  dead  body 
of  their  enemy,  he  received  while  in  this  posi- 
tion, a  severe  stroke  from  each  individual  of  the 
several  bands  of  Crows  that  passed  him. — He 
was  taken  up  half  dead,  by  his  own  tribe,  when 
they  passed  in  pursuit  of  the  enemy.  The 
ardour  and  impetuosity  of  the  young  men  be- 
longing to  the  Flat-Head  camp  amazed  the  old- 
est warriors  present,  and  formed  the  theme  of 
universal  admiration,  as  well  as  the  dread  of 
their  enemies.  Even  the  women  of  the  Flat- 
Heads  mingled  in  the  fray.  One,  the  mother 
of  seven  children,  conducted  her  own  sons  into 
the  battle-field.  Having  perceived  that  the 
horse  of  her  eldest  son  was  breaking  down  in  a 
single  combat  with  a  Crow,  she  threw  herself 
between  the  combatants,  and  with  a  knife  put 
the  Crow  to  flight.  Another,  a  young  woman 
perceiving  that  the  quivers  of  her  party  were 
nearly  exhausted,  coolly  collected,  amidst  a 
shower    of    arrows,   those    that    lay  scattered 

around  her,  and  brought  them  to  replenish  the 

14 


p  '  • 


302 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


I 


n 


1'^ 


■If' 


s 


nearly  exhausted  store.  The  celebrated  Mary 
Quille,  already  distinguished  in  numerous  bat- 
tles, pursued,  with  axe  in  hand,  a  Crow,  and 
having  failed  to  come  up  with  him,  returned, 
saying:  "I  thought  that  these  great  talkers 
were  men.  I  was  mistaken:  it  is  not  worth 
while  even  for  women  to  attempt  to  chase 
them." 

The  little  party  of  Black-Feet,  animated  by  a 
spirit  of  revenge,  for  the  loss  of  half  their  tribe, 
massacred  the  preceding  year  by  the  Crows, 
and  probably  influenced  by  a  feeling  of  their 
safety  while  they  fought  in  company  with  the 
Flat-Head  Christians,  did  signal  service  in  the 
combat. 

In  the  meantime,  Gabriel  and  Charles,  fearing 
the  threatened  outbreak,  immediately  started 
back  to  meet  me  and  hasten  my  arrival,  my 
presence  being  considered  necessary  to  prevent 
the  effusion  of  blood.  I  arrived  at  the  Flat- 
Head  camp  the  day  after  the  battle.  I  found 
everything  ready  to  repel  a  second  attack,  should 
that  be  attempted.  I  immediately  sent  an  ex- 
press to  the  Crows,  to  announce  my  arrival,  and 
at  the  same  time,  to  convey  to  them  the  great 
desire  I  had  to  see  them,  especially  for  the  pur- 
pose of  effecting  a  reconciliation  between  the 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


303 


.  Mary 
as  bat- 
rw,  and 
turned, 
talkers 
worth 
)  chase 

ed  by  a 
ir  tribe, 
Crows, 
of  their 
vith  the 
e  in  the 

,  fearing 
started 

ival,  my 
prevent 

be  Flat- 
I  found 
c,  should 
an  ex- 
ival,  and 
he  great 
the  pur- 
veen  the 


> 


contending  parties.  But  it  appeared  that  after 
having  buried  their  dead,  they  retreated  precip- 
itately ;  so  that  no  account  of  their  destination 
could  b«  had.  My  express  told  me  that  there 
must  have  been  excessive  grief  in  the  camp  of 
the  Crows,  as  the  usual  marks  of  it  could  be 
traced  in  every  direction,  such  as  the  dissevered 
joints  of  fingers,  and  the  numerous  stains  of 
blood,  caused  by  the  wounds  which  the  parents 
of  the  deceased  inflict  upon  themselves  on  such 
occasions. 

Shortly  after  my  arrival,  the  Black-Feet  came 
in  a  body  to  my  lodge,  to  express  in  a  manner 
truly  eloquent,  their  admiration  of  the  Flat- 
Heads,  with  whom  in  future  they  desired  to  live 
on  terms  of  the  closest  friendship.  "To  their 
prayers,"  said  they,  **  must  this  extraordinary  vic- 
tory be  attributed.  While  the  battle  lasted,  we 
saw  their  old  men,  their  women,  and  children, 
on  their  knees,  imploring  the  aid  of  Heaven ; 
the  Flat-Heads  did  not  lose  a  single  man — one 
only  fell,  a  young  Nez-Perce,  and  another  mor- 
tally wounded.  But  the  Nez-Perces  did  not 
pray.  We  prayed  morning  and  evening  with 
the  Flat-Heads,  and  heard  the  instructions  of 
the  chiefs."  They  then  begged  of  me  in  their 
own  affecting  way,  to  take  pity  on  them  and  be 


*>,  v  I" 


'fL 


.■  "M 


304 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


charitable  to  them:  they  now  determined  to 
hear  the  words  of  the  Great  Manitou  of  the 
whites,  and  to  follow  the  course  which  the  Re- 
deemer had  marked  out  on  earth.  Having  ad- 
dressed them  on  the  nature  of  the  life  they 
had  proposed  to  adopt,  they  all  without  excep- 
tion presented  their  children  for  baptism,  to  the 
number  of  eighty. 

The  day  after  this  sacred  ceremony,  they  call- 
ed on  me,  requesting  to  be  allowed  to  express  in 
their  own  way,  the  excess  of  joy  which  they  felt 
on  account  of  this  two-fold  victory.  On  return- 
ing from  the  late  field  of  battle,  the  warriors,  at 
the  head  of  whom  was  a  young  chief,  chanted 
songs  of  triumph,  accompanied  with  the  beating 
of  drums ;  at  each  beat,  they  sent  forth  a  wild 
and  piercing  shout ;  then  followed  the  song,  and 
so  on  alternately ; — wild  as  the  music  was,  it 
was  not  without  harmony.  It  continued  thus, 
during  almost  the  whole  of  our  route.  We 
marched  along  the  right  bjink  of  the  Yellow- 
Stone  River,  having  on  our  left  a  chain  of 
mountains  resembling  those  old  portals  to  which 
history  has  given  the  name  of  "  ancient  chiv- 
alry." We  had  scarcely  arrived  at  the  encamp- 
ment, when  the  Black-Feet  commenced,  under 
the  shade  of  a  beautiful  cluster  of  pines,  their 


r1 


4  ■ 


'x 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


305 


ned  to 
of  the 
he  Re- 
ing  ad- 
fe  they 
excep- 
,  to  the 

ey  call- 
press  in 
hey  felt 
return- 
riors,  at 
chanted 
beating 
a  wild 
ng,  and 
was,  it 
id  thus, 
e.  We 
if^ellow- 
lain  of 
)  which 
it  chiv- 
ncamp- 
,  under 
s,  their 


arrangements  for  a  dance,  insisting,  at  the  same 
time,  upon  showing  the  Black-gowns  how  high- 
ly they  valued  their  presence  among  them,  and 
how  gratified  they  would  be  to  have  them  wit- 
ness this  display.  There  was,  indeed,  nothing 
in  it  that  could  give  occasion  to  offended 
modesty  to  turn  aside  and  blush.  I  need  not 
tell  you  it  was  not  the  polka,  the  waltz,  or  any 
thing  resembling  the  dances  of  modern  civilized 
life.  The  women  alone  figure  in  it,  old  and 
young ;  from  the  youngest  child  capable  of 
walking,  to  the  oldest  matron  present.  Among 
them  I  have  seen  several  old  women  upwards 
of  eighty  years,  whose  feeble  limbs  required  the 
aid  of  a  staflT  in  their  movements  through  the 
dance.  Almost  all  appeared  in  the  best  costume 
of  the  warriors,  which,  however,  was  worn 
over  their  own  dress,  a  sort  of  tunic  they  al- 
ways wear,  and  which  contributed  also  not  a 
little  to  the  modesty  of  their  appearance.  Some 
carried  the  arms  that  had  done  most  execu- 
tion in  battle,  but  the  greater  part  held  a  green 
bough  in  the  hand.  In  proportion  as  the  dresses 
increase  in  singularity,  the  colors  in  variety,  and 
the  jingling  of  the  bells  in  sound,  in  the  same 
degree  is  the  effect  upon  the  rude  spectator 
heightened.    The  whole  figure  is  surmounted  by 


N.  ^ 


li, 


J* 


306 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


a  casket  of  plumes,  which  by  the  regular  move- 
ments of  the  individual  is  made  to  harmonize 
with  the  song,  and  seems  to  add  much  graceful- 
ness to  the  whole  scene.  To  lose  nothing  of  so 
grand  a  spectacle,  the  Indians  mount  their 
horses,  or  climb  the  neighboring  trees.  The 
dance  itself  consists  of  a  little  jump,  more  or  less 
lively,  according  to  the  beat  of  the  drum.  This 
is  beaten  only  by  the  men,  and  all  unite  in  the 
song.  To  break  the  monotony,  or  lend  some 
new  interest  to  the  scene,  occasionally  a  sudden, 
piercing  scream  is  added.  If  the  dance  lan- 
guishes, haranguers  and  those  most  skilful  in 
grimaces,  come  to  its  aid.  As  in  jumping  the 
dancers  tend  towards  a  common  centre,  it  often 
happens  that  the  ranks  become  too  close,  then 
they  fall  back  in  good  order  to  form  a  large 
circle,  and  commence  anew  in  better  style. 

After  the  dance,  followed  the  presentation  of 
the  calumet.  It  is  borne  by  the  wife  of  the 
chief,  accompanied  by  two  other  women,  on  the 
breast  of  one  of  whom  rests  the  head  of  the 
pipe,  and  upon  that  of  the  other,  the  stem  hand- 
somely adorned  with  feathers.  The  most  dis- 
tinguished personage  of  the  nation  precedes  the 
calumet  bearers,  and  conducts  them  around  the 
circle  of  dancers.     The  object,  probably  of  the 


«i  r 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


307 


last  part  of  the  ceremony,  the  termination  of  the 
rejoicings,  is  to  indicate,  that  the  best  fruit  of 
the  victory  they  celebrate  is  the  peace  which 
follows.  To  establish  this  peace  upon  a  better 
foundation,  is  a  thought  constantly  uppermost  in 
my  mind.  May  God  grant  that  our  efforts 
to  plant  the  crop  of  peace  among  these  wild 
children  of  the  forest,  be  not  unavailing;  I 
earnestly  recommend  these  poor  souls  to  the 
prayers  of  the  faithful. 

Having  thus,  more  fully  perhaps  than  the 
limits  of  a  single  letter  would  seem  to  justify, 
redeemed  the  promise  given  in  my  last,  of  re- 
counting some  of  the  advantages,  spiritual  and 
temporal,  which  the  Flat-Heads  enjoy,  it  may 
now  be  proper  to  resume  the  course  of  events 
up  to  the  present  date.  On  the  16th  of  August, 
we  left  St.  Mary's  by  a  mountain  gap,  called  the 
**  Devil's  gate,"  a  name  which  it  has  probably 
received  from  the  fact  of  its  forming  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  of  the  marauding  parties  of  the 
Black-Feet.  We  encamped  the  first  night,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Black-Foot  forks.  Innumerable 
rivulets,  and  several  beautiful  lakes  contribute 
largely  to  this  river.  Towards  its  head,  to  the 
north-east,  there  is  an  easy  pass  for  cars  and 
wagons.     The  valley  we  ascended,  is  watered 


m 


■I 


»! 


^    ;.i 


309 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


M 


by  a  beautiful  stream  called  the  Cart  River.  It 
was  through  this  valley  we  wound  our  way  in 
former  days,  with  all  our  baggage,  to  the 
spot  where  St.  Mary's  now  stands.  We  cross- 
ed the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Arrow- 
stone  fork,  another  easy  pass,  and  descended 
a  tributary  of  the  Jefferson  as  far  as  its  outlet, 
through  rather  a  wild,  broken,  and  mountainous 
country,  with  here  and  there  an  extensive, 
open  plain,  the  ordinary  resort  of  innumer- 
able herds  of  buffalo.  The  seventh  day  found 
Qs  encamped  in  the  immense  plain  through 
which  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  diverge,  ascend- 
ing to  the  source  at  the  very  top  of  the  main 
chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  travelling 
through  these  wilds,  great  care  is  to  be  had  in 
order  to  avoid  the  sudden  attack  of  some  of 
those  straggling  war-parties  that  infest  this 
neighborhood  purposely  to  search  for  scalps, 
plunder,  and  the  fame  of  some  daring  exploit. 
We  halted  every  evening  for  a  few  hours,  to 
take  a  bite,  as  the  trapper  would  say,  and  to 
give  some  food  and  rest  to  our  animals.  When 
it  was  quite  dark,  we  would  kindle  a  brisk  fire 
as  if  to  last  until  morning  ;  then  under  cover  of 
the  night,  proceed  on  our  journey  for  about  ten 
miles,  to  some  unsuspected  place,  thus  eluding 


i 


i  ,    * 

^'\* 

' 

OREGON     MISSIONS. 


309 


er.     It 
vay  in 
;o    the 
cross- 
Vrrow- 
sended 
outlet, 
ainous 
ensive, 
lumer- 
r  found 
brougb 
iscend- 
3  main 
veiling 
had  ill 
)me  of 
this 
scalps, 
xploit. 
urs,  to 
and  to 
When 
sk  fire 
)ver  of 
ut  ten 
luding 


our  enemies,  should  any  have  followed  in  our 
track,  or  be  lurking  in  the  neighborhood,  await- 
ing the  midnight  hour  to  execute  their  murder- 
ous designs.  From  the  three  forks  we  went 
easterly,  crossing  by  an  easy  pass  the  mountain 
chain  which  separates  the  head  waters  of  the 
Missouri  from  the  Yellow-Stone  River,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  forty  miles.  We  followed  in  the 
track  of  the  Flat-Head  camp  for  several  days, 
when  I  sent  Gabriel,  my  interpreter,  with  a 
Pend-d'Oreille  Indian  in  advance  to  discover 
what  direction  the  camp  had  taken,  and  to  bring 
back  Speedy  news  regarding  their  movements  ; 
and  also  to  learn  the  dispositions  of  the  Crows, 
whom  I  designed  to  visit.  Four  days  later  I 
was  met  by  a  few  Flat-Heads  on  their  way  to 
find  me,  when  I  was  apprised  of  the  treachery 
of  the  Crows,  and  the  severe  chastisement  they 
had  so  deservedly  received.  I  travelled  the 
whole  of  that  night,  and  arrived  next  day  in  the 
allied  camp,  as  I  have  already  informed  you. 
Having  failed  to  obtain  the  desired  interview 
with  the  Crows,  our  attention  will  be  now  turn- 
ed towards  the  Black-Feet,  with  whose  favor- 
able disposition  to  receive  the  gospel  you  are 
already  acquainted.  The  result  of  this  deter- 
mination  will   form    the   subject  of  my   next 

14* 


1> 


■a 


l,^mrr'  ^, 


n 


.} 


ft 


Mr' 


I 


14. 


m^^^ 


310 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


letter.     I  recommend  myself  to  God  in  your 
prayers. 

I  remain,  with  sentiments  of  profound  respect 
and  esteem,  reverend,  dear  father,  your  very 
humble  servant  and  brother  in  Christ. 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.J. 


Ml    * 


mi 


m4 


l!itf 


r?  is  '■' 


v:  t.' 


..f 


i'.''^' 
?*\".. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


311 


No.  XXIV. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 


St.  Louis  Uuiversity, 

January  Ist,  1847. 

Very  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial, — You 
are  already  acquainted  with  our  determination 
to  accompany  the  Black-Feet  in  returning  to 
their  country.  In  the  sequel  of  this  letter  you 
will  learn,  with  pleasure,  how  far  Almighty 
God  has  blessed  our  humble  efforts  in  carrying 
this  resolution  into  effect.  After  the  battle, 
described  in  my  letter  from  the  Yellow-Stone 
camp,  the  Crows,  it  appears,  fled  to  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  determined,  however,  to 
avenge  themselves  on  the  Black-Feet,  whom 
they  now  designed  to  follow  into  their  own 
country.  The  latter,  probably  through  fear  of 
this  assault,  resolved  to  remain  with  the  Flat- 
Head  camp,  until  it  reached  the  head  waters  of 
the  Muscle-shell  River.  In  leaving  the  Yellow- 
Stone    our    direction  lay  towards    the   north. 


M 


■r^' 


El  Vi 


312 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


,^ 


rr',  • 


1* 

i 


through  a  broken  and  undulating,  dry  and 
woodless  country,  destitute  of  any  water  fit  to 
drink — stagnant  pools  of  brackish  water  being 
the  only  kind  found  here  to  satiate  the  thirst. 
Only  a  few  straggling  bulls  were  seen  or  killed, 
scarcely  sufficient,  indeed,  to  supply  the  wants 
of  our  numerous  camp.  The  gretit  variety  of 
matter  incidental  to  this  journey  with  the  united 
Indian  camp,  will  appear,  perhaps,  more  satis^ 
factory  if  given  in  the  same  order  in  which  it 
was  entered  in  my  diary  ;  I  therefore  present 
you  with  an  extract  from  it :  — 

8th  Sept.,  1846.  The  elements  of  discord  ex- 
isting between  the  Nez-Perces  and  Black-Feet, 
there  is  every  appearance  of  an  open  rupture. 
The  Nez-Perces  being  evidently  in  the  wrong, 
the  Flat-Heads,  following  our  example,  en- 
deavor to  convince  them  of  the  impropriety  of 
their  conduct ;  but  to  no  purpose,  ihe  principal 
men  among  them  refusing,  for  the  second  time, 
Lo  smoke  the  calumet  of  peace. 

9th.  Towards  night  a  touching  incident  oc- 
curred in  our  lodge.  A  Nez-Perce  chief,  who 
declares  himself  our  friend,  entered,  accompa- 
nied by  three  Black-Feet,  a  warrior,  an  inter- 
preter, and  a  young  man  about  twenty  years  of 
age.     This  youth,  when  about  one  year  old,  lost 

,4. 


I 


.■t 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


313 


^   and 

fit  to 

being 

thirst. 

killed, 

wants 

iety  of 

united 

sati&- 

lich  it 

►resent 

)rd  ex- 
i-Feet, 
ipture. 
wrong, 
en- 
iety  of 
ncipal 
I  time, 

jnt  oc- 
f,  who 
jompa- 
L  inter- 
ears  of 
Id,  lost 


both  his  parents ;  his  mother,  a  captive  among 
the  Black-Feet,  died  the  first  days  of  her  cap- 
tivity ;  his  father,  whose  country  is  far  distant 
from  the  Black-Feet,  is  altogether  lost  to  him. 
The  poor  orphan  became  the  adopted  child  of  a 
Black-Foot  woman,  who  brought  him  up  as  she 
would  her  own  offspring.  The  adopted  son 
grew  up,  imbibing  all  the  notions  and  customs 
of  his  new  friends,  knowing  no  other  relations 
than  those  around  him.  To-day,  the  woman 
whom  he  believed  to  be  his  real  Mother,  de- 
clared to  him  that  she  was  not ;  and  that  his 
father,  whom  he  had  not  seen  since  he  was  one 
year  old,  was  now  sitting  beside  him,  "  Who  is 
my  father  ?  "  he  anxiously  enquired.  "  Thers," 
said  the  woman,  pointing  to  the  Nez-Perce  chief, 
who  entered  the  lodge  with  him.  The  doubts 
of  the  father  were  soon  removed,  as  he  hastily 
stripped  the  youth's  garments  from  his  back,  and 
there  discovered  the  mark  of  a  burn  received  in 
the  parental  lodge  while  yet  an  infant.  The 
sudden  burst  of  feeling  elicited  from  these  chil- 
dren of  nature  at  this  unexpected  meeting,  can 
be  better  imagined  than  described.  The  chief 
has  no  grown  children,  he  is  therefore  the  more 
eloquent  in  endeavoring  to  persuade  his  son  to 
return  to  his  native  country,  presenting  him,  at 


.?     •     ■    X 


I, 


if  ■  • 


J 


■ 


314 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


the  same  time,  with  one  of  the  best  and  most 
beautiful  of  his  steeds.  I  joined  to  the  entrea- 
ties of  the  father,  the  strongest  motives  I  could 
urge.  The  son,  whose  heart  is  divided  between 
nature  and  grace,  begged  to  be  allowed  to  bid 
farewell  to  the  companions  and  friends  of  his 
youth,  who  were  now  absent-^— he  could  not,  he 
declared,  thus  abruptly  leave  her  who,  with 
motherly  care  and  anxiety,  had  watched  over 
him  so  many  years,  and  whom  he  had  always 
so  tenderly  loved,  and  looked  upon  as  his  mother. 
"  Now  that  the  Black-gowns  are  with  us,"  he 
said,  "  I  desire  to  be  of  the  happy  number  of 
those  who  are  about  to  introduce  them  to  my 
friends,  and  to  listen  to  the  words  of  the  Great 
Spirit,  whom  they  have  come  to  announce. 
After  that,  but  not  before,  shall  I  follow  my 
father." 

10th.  The  Nez-Perc6s  announce  their  deter- 
mination of  leaving  the  united  camp.  The  Flat- 
Heads,  who  dread  more  the  presence  of  a  friend 
capable  of  injuring  their  souls,  than  that  of  an 
enemy  who  can  only  hurt  the  body,  are  exces- 
sively rejoiced  at  this  announcement.  The 
Black-Feet  also  are  highly  pleased  to  see  them 
go.  The  separation  took  place  about  8  o'clock ; 
but  they  had  gone  only  a  short  distance  from  the 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


315 


camp,  when,  fearing  an  attack  from  the  Crows, 
they  rejoined  the  main  body,  determined  to  re- 
main as  long  as  the  great  hunt  shall  last.  To 
avoid  the  outbreak,  evidently  threatened  by  the 
ill-will  of  the  Nez-Perces,  the  Black-Feet-have 
resolved  to  leave  the  camp  on  the  morrow. 
This  day  I  baptized  a  Nez-Perces,  who  had  been 
shot  in  the  late  battle  with  the  Crows — he  can- 
not survive  much  longer. 

11th.  Farewell  to  the  Flat-Heads.  All  came 
to  shake  hands  with  us,  the  grief  of  their  hearts 
was  depicted  in  their  countenances  ;  we  all  per- 
ceived how  deeply  they  felt  the  separation.  A 
great  number  of  their  cavaliers  accompany  us 
for  a  considerable  distance  ;  six  go  as  far  as  our 
encampment,  not  less  than  twenty-five  miles. 

Our  course  lay  through  an  extensive  level 
plain,  at  the  very  base  of  the  Muscle-shell  moun- 
tains. These  rise  abruptly  from  the  plain 
around,  resembling  broken,  elevated  islands  in 
the  midst  of  the  ocean,  and  their  tops  tufted 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  cedar  and  pine.  While 
admiring  the  singular  appearance  of  the  scenery, 
my  attention  is  called  off  to  a  very  distressing 
accident.  An  old  Indian  is  seen  falling  from  his 
horse,  receiving  in  the  fall  a  severe  wound  be- 
tween his  eyes  ;  he  remains  senseless,  all  efforts 


316 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


VU 


Wl^. 


if 


.^  S 


to  revive  him  are  fruitless.  It  was  the  old 
Black-Foot  chief,  Nicholas,  whom  I  baptized 
five  years  ago  ;  he  acted,  ever  since,  the  part  of 
a  most  effective  missioiiary,  in  preparing  the 
way  for  the  introduction  of  the  gospel  among 
his  tribe.  To-day  he  entered  what  he  called  his 
own  country,  chanting  hymns  of  praise  and 
thanksgiving  in  the  happy  anticipation  of  soon 
presenting  us  to  his  brethren.  He  dies!  not 
even  a  sigh  escapes  him.  Oh,  how  profound 
are  the  designs  of  God.  Happily  he  leaves  a 
son  worthy  of  so  excellent  a  sire.  His  attach- 
ment to  religion  equals  that  of  his  father. 
Having  resided  several  years  &.mong  the  Flat- 
Heads,  he  has  acquired  a  perfect  knowledge  of 
their  language — acting  in  the  capacity  of  inter- 
preter, he  has  already  rendered  me  considerable 
assistance.  Notwithstanding  his  great  grief,  he 
performs  the  last  sad  offices  near  the  tomb  of 
his  father  with  the  composure  and  firmness  of  a 
Christian.  It  is  customary  among  the  Black- 
Feet  to  express  their  grief  by  wailings  and 
lacerations  of  the  body^  calculated  only  to  af- 
flict those  around,  though  intended  b^'^them  as 
a  mark  of  respect  towards  the  lamented  dead. 
The  son  of  Nicholas,  himself  a  chief  and  a 
great  brave,  knowing  the  Christian  practice, 


V 


was  the   old 
i  I  baptized 
e,  the  part  of 
peparing  the 
>spel  among 
he  called  his 
praise   and 
ition  of  soon 
[e  dies !  not 
w  profound 
be  leaves  a 
His  attach- 
his  father, 
ig  the  Flat- 
lowledge  of 
ity  of  inter- 
onsiderable 
!at  grief,  he 
he  tomb  of 
mness  of  a 
the  Black- 
ilings  and 
only  to  af- 
)y*them  as 
ited  dead, 
ef  and   a 
practice, 


im''  •/f'ii 


*v 

■      ' 

r 

« 

i 

■'  : 

/ 

^            •       :■        . 

,r 

'  •  lA 


•■\ 


li> 


1 


'4 


r. 


y. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


317 


fc 


•J. 


passes  the  night  in  prayer,  with  his  wife  and 
children,  near  the  funeral  couch  of  his  father. 
His  friends  and  brother,  Pegans  (pagan  in  name 
and  in  fact),  would  now  and  then  gather  around 
him,  and  kneeling  beside  the  mourner,  pour 
forth,  Christian-like,  many  a  pious  ejaculation 
on  behalf  of  their  deceased  chieftain.  The  re- 
mains of  the  venerable  chief  were  placed  in  the 
grave  by  the  hands  of  his  own  son,  and  over  his 
tomb  the  emblem  of  salvation  was  raised — the 
cross  of  the  Saviour,  whose  words  were  now  for 
the  first  time  announced  to  the  lonely  tribes  of 
this  long-benighted  wilderness.  At  the  very 
moment  the  last  prayers  of  the  funeral  service 
were  uttered,  "  May  he  rest  in  peace,"  a  busy 
stir  breaks  the  death-like  silence  of  the  surround- 
ing crowd  of  Indians.  A  Flat-Head  approached 
in  full  gallop,  announcing  the  pleasing  intelli- 
gence that  two  Black-Feet  had  reached  their 
camp,  and  informed  them  that  the  tribe  of 
Nicholas  was  within  two  days  march  of  us. 

12th.  The  very  evening  of  the  day  on  which 
Nicholas  was  interred,  immense  herds  of  buflalo 
are  seen  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp.  All 
are  preparing  for  the  chase — hunters  throwing 
the  lasso  over  their  buffalo  horses,  already 
prancing  and  capering  for  a  race — all  ready  to 


'■S"^' 


15  ■' 


318 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


►.a 

ttfJ 


start ;  but  before  they  separate,  they  halt  for  a 
moment,  and,  in  imitation  of  the  Flat-Heads,  all 

are  seen  on  their  knees  to  beg  of  Almighty  God 
their  daily  bread ;  when  again  mounted,  off  they 
bound  at  full  speed,  each  for  one,  two,  or  three 
fat  cows,  according  to  the  strength  of  his  favor- 
ite steed.  The  supper  was  abundant  in  every 
lodge,  regiments  of  steaks  were  paraded  before 
all  the  fires.  My  fire  was  encircled  with  tongues, 
or  other  dainty  dishes  reserved  for  the  Black- 
gown  ;  and  all  who  visited  our  lodge  were  of 
course  invited  to  partake  of  the  superabundant 
supply.  Among  my  visitors,  one  in  particular 
distinguished  himself  by  his  originality  and  good 
sense — his  words  were  accompanied  with  ex- 
pressive signs,  which  rendered  his  conversation 
very  agreeable  ;  he  related  to  me  what  he  ob- 
served while  in  the  Flat-Head  camp  : — "  When 
we  first  arrived,"  said  he,  "  we  had  abundance 
of  provisions  with  us,  while  the  Flat-Heads  and 
Nez-Perc6s  were  fasting ;  we  were  visited,  and 
all  partook  of  what  we  had.  The  Flat-Head 
differed  from  the  Nez-Perces  ;  the  former  prayed 
before  he  ate,  the  latter  did  not.  On  the  Lord's- 
day,  the  Flat-Heads  remained  quiet  in  the 
lodges,  they  frequently  prayed,  and  spoke  to  us 
words  of  the  Great  Spirit  to  make  us  good  ;  but 


r  halt  for  a 
-Heads,  all 

nighty  God 
;ed,  off  they 
ro,  or  three 
>f  his  favor- 
mt  in  every 
aded  before 
ith  tongues, 
the  Black- 
dge  were  of 
perabundant 
in  particular 
lity  and  good 
ed  with  ex- 
3onversation 
what  he  ob- 
p  : — i''  When 
abundance 
it-Heads  and 
visited,  and 
5  Flat-Head 
irmer  prayed 
n  the  Lord's- 
uiet    in   the 
spoke  to  us 
us  good ;  but 


?5 

r 

a 

CO 


0C 


*M 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


319 


the  Nez-Perc6s,  painted,  and  proud  of  their 
feathers,  were  seen  going  here  and  there,  more 
for  evil  than  good,  without  reserve,  before  our 
young  people.  But  then  came  the  battle  with 
the  Crows,  and  the  Nez-Perces,  though  the  least 
brave  of  us  all,  and  the  least  exposed,  have  had 
to  weep  over  the  loss  of  one  pf  their  men,  and 
another  is  dying  of  his  wounds.  This  made  me 
believe  the  words  I  had  heard  the  Flat-Head 
say,  *  that  the  Great  Spirit  is  good  to  the  good, 
but  that  he  can  find  the  wicked  at  pleasure  to 
punish  them  as  they  may  deserve.* " 

The  wonderful  success  of  the  Flat-Heads  in 
the  different  wars  they  have  been  compelled  to 
wage,  has  confirmed  their  enemies  in  the  per- 
suasion entertained  for  some  years,  that  the 
medicine  of  the  Black-gowns  is  stronger  than 
their  own.  Two  Indians  of  the  Pegan  camp 
have  just  arrived,  apprising  us  of  their  approach. 

13th.  Sunday.  —  Wr  are  obliged  to  move 
camp ; — every  dry  stick  had  been  burned  where 
we  passed  the  night,  and  the  rain  has  rendered 
the  only  other  substitute  for  fuel,  buffalo  dung, 
unfit  for  use ; — the  rain  which  was  falling  as 
we  travelled,  changed  into  sleet  and  hail.  After 
a  long  day's  march  we  encamp  for  the  night,  in 
a  beautiful  cotton  grove,  on  the  margin  of  the 
Judith  river. 


320 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


'-.J  >■»! 


!V 


f. 


The  bad  weather  prevented  the  re-union  of 
the  two  camps  ;  it  will  be  so  much  the  more  re- 
markable, as  to-morrow  will  be  the  feast  of  the 
Exaltation  of  the  Cross.  The  chief  enquires,  if 
it  would  please  us  to  see  the  Black-Feet  mani- 
fest their  joy  in  their  own  way,  that  is,  by  paint- 
ing, singing  and  dancing ;  the  answer  was : 
"  Do  the  best  you  can  to  show  your  friends  that 
you  are  pleased."  We  learn  by  an  express,  just 
arrived,  that  the  Big  Lake,  the  great  chief  of  the 
Pegans,  harangued  his  people,  exhorting  them 
to  behave  orderly,  and  to  listen  with  attention  to 
all  that  the  Fathers  would  say  to  them.  He  is 
accompanied  by  the  great  Tail-Bearer,  a  kind  of 
orator,  or  aid-de-camp  to  the  chief.  His  tail, 
composed  of  buffalo  and  horse-hair,  is  about 
seven  or  eight  feet  long,  and  instead  of  wearing 
it  behind,  according  to  the  usual  fashion,  it  is 
fastened  above  his  forehead,  and  there  formed 
into  a  spiral  coil,  resembling  a  rhinoceros'  horn. 
Such  a  tail,  among  the  Black-Feet,  is  a  mark  of 
great  distinction  and  bravery — in  all  probability, 
the  longer  the  tail,  the  braver  the  person. 

14th.  An  agreeable  disappointment.  The 
Flat-Head  camp,  from  which  we  separated  four 
days  ago,  is  only  about  ten  miles  from  us.  They 
sent  an  invitation  to  the  Big  Lake,  desiring,  at 
the  same  time,  to  trade  with  him  on  friendly 


:•    L 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


321 


s-union  of 
J  more  re- 
ast  of  the 
Qquires,  if 
'eet  mani- 
,  by  paint- 
ver  was : 
Lends  that 
press,  just 
lief  of  the 
ting  them 
ttention  to 
n.     He  is 
•,  a  kind  of 
His  tail, 
is  about 
f  wearing 
ihion,  it  is 
re  formed 
;ros*  horn, 
a  mark  of 
•obability, 
$on. 

nt.      The 

rated  four 

lis.     They 

siring,  at 

1  friendly 


terms.  Opinions  are  divided  among  the  people 
of  the  Big  Lake.  The  chief  is  for  postponing 
the  trade  until  the  meeting  with  the  Black- 
gowns  takes  place ;  the  Tail-Bearer  gives  the 
preference  to  trade.  The  chief's  voice  prevails. 
An  Indian  from  the  camp  arrives  about  ten 
o'clock,  to  herald  their  approach ;  all  the  horses 
are  immediately  saddled,  and  the  two  Black- 
gowns,  at  the  head  of  a  numerous  band  of 
cavaliers,  forming  one  extensive  line,  in  single 
file,  proceed  through  a  beautiful  open  plain,  the 
air  resounding  with  songs  of  triumphal  joy. 
We  are  soon  in  sight  of  each  other — a  loud  dis- 
charge from  all  the  guns  was  the  signal  to  dis- 
mount, when  the  Big-Lake  and  Tail-Bearer,  fol- 
lowed by  the  whole  tribe,  walked  up  to  give  us 
a  warm  and  affectionate  shake  of  the  hand. 
Smoking  came  next ;  and  after  the  friendly  pipe 
had  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  and  had  made 
several  rounds,  they  communicate  to  each  other 
the  news  since  parting.  I  made  to  them  my 
preparatory  address,  to  dispose  their  minds  and 
hearts  to  listen  with  attention  to  the  word  of 
God.  To  this  appeal  they  responded  with  a 
loud  and  cheerful  expression  of  the  satisfaction 
they  felt  in  listening  to  the  Black-gown.  We 
had  scarcely  introduced  our  new  friends  into  the 


>U  I 


'i.    i 


>-■■  ^ 


r-?J  v^''-  I'u'  ( 


« 1 

■4  ! 
■■t 

♦  t 


j; 


4! 


■^s 


••ft!    - 


?| 


~i; 


J' 


~4 '      "  " 


322 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


camp,  before  the  Flat-Heads  and  Nez-Perc6s 
were  seen  approaching.  Their  meeting  was 
still  more  joyful  and  cordial  than  the  one  we 
had  just  witnessed  among  the  people  of  the  Big- 
Lake.  This  is  not  astonishing,  when  you  know 
them ;  the  savage  is  naturally  reserved  towards 
men  he  does  not  know.  The  candid,  open  ways 
of  acting  which  distinguish  our  neophytes  soon 
communicate  themselves  to  the  Black-Feet,  and 
before  the  sun  went  down,  Black-Feet,  Flat- 
Heads,  young  and  old,  all  show  equal  pleasure 
to  find  us,  on  such  an  occasion,  in  the  midst  of 
them.  ^ 

After  evening  prayers  were  said  in  the  Black- 
Foot  and  Flat-Head  languages,  I  addressed  to 
them  a  short  discourse  on  the  happy  re-union 
and  peaceful  disposition  that  now  existed  be- 
tween the  two  nations.  What  a  pleasing  sight ! 
What  a  consoling  triumph  for  religion,  to  behold 
those  warriors,  whose  deep-scarred  faces  told  of 
the  many  bloody  battles  they  had  had  together, — 
who  could  never  meet  before  but  with  feelings 
of  deadly  enmity,  thirsting  for  each  other's 
blood, — now  bending  the  knee  before  1  heir  com- 
mon Father  in  prayer,  as  with  one  heart,  and 
listening  with  delight  to  the  words  of  the  peace- 
ful Redeemer.    The   chiefs  and  tlie  principal 


i 


M- 


tt^y 


OREGON      MISS  IONS  . 


323 


^ez-Perc6s 
eting  was 
le  one  we 
Df  the  Big- 
you  know 
jd  towards 
open  ways 
lytes  soon 
:-Feet,  and 
Peet,  Flat- 
il  pleasure 
e  midst  of 

the  Black- 
dressed  to 
y  re-union 
ixisted  be- 
dng  sight ! 
[,  to  behold 
ces  told  of 
ogether, — 
;h  feelings 
ih    other's 
lieir  com- 
leart,  and 
he  peace- 
principal 


men  of  both  nations  passed  the  evening  in  my 
lodge.  Victor,  the  great  Flat-Head  chief,  gains 
the  good- will  of  all — charms  everybody  by  the 
suavity  and  dignified  simplicity  of  his  manners. 
He  relates  some  of  his  exploits,  not  indeed  to 
appear  conspicuous,  as  is  evident  from  the 
modest  aiid  simple  way  in  which  he  speaks,  but 
to  make  them  fully  sensible  of  the  protection 
which  the  Great  Spirit  extends  to  those  who  are 
devoted  to  His  holy  cause.  The  Black-Feet 
who  were  engaged  in  the  late  b  ittle  with  the 
Crows,  confirm  the  statements  ol  Victc ; ,  and  re- 
count many  edifying  circumstances  w  iich  they 
had  witnessed  in  the  Flat-H-.;d  camp,  rhe 
making  of  the  sign  of  the  cro <s  was  highly  ex- 
tolled, as  a  certain  sign  of  victory  to  those  who 
had  already  given  their  hearts  to  the  true  God. 
It  is  truly  to-day  the  Exaltation  of  the  Holy 
Cross. 

15th.  The  Octave  of  the  Nativity  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin.  The  new  disciples  of  the  cross 
assist  at  a  solemn  Ma.-*,  sung  in  the  open  plain, 
under  the  canopy  of  green  boughs,  to  beg  for  the 
blessings  of  God  upon  this  wilderness  and  its 
wandering  tribes,  and  unite  them  in  the  bond  of 
peace.  Flat-Heads,  Nez-Perces,  Pegans,  Blood 
Indians,  Gros-Ventres  and  Black-Feet,  number- 


1»;i»^-:l 


fe 


i 


If*    ► 

k  *•  •- 


\  ! 


!■••:.: 


■PV 


i  t 


I'-  ■  -i 

||i 

I'      *                        .. 

^ 

1   I, 

1  i 

1  '"'■ 

il  1 

n 

k'    "' 

•^ 

1  •••!.■ 

'  ^3     ■■ 

1 

324 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


ing  about  two  thousand,  all  surround  the  altar 
of  the  living  God,  on  which  "  the  clean  oblation 
is  offered,"  in  their  behalf.  It  is  a  thing  unheard 
of,  that  among  so  many  different  savage  nations, 
hitherto  so  inimical  to  one  another,  unanimity 
and  joy,  such  as  we  now  witness,  should  exist, 
— it  appears  as  if  their  ancient  deadly  feuds  had 
been  long  since  buried  in  oblivion  ;  and  this  is 
the  more  remarkable  in  an  Indian  who,  it  is  well 
known,  cherishes  feelings  of  revenge  for  many 
years.  How  long  will  this  last  ?  May  Heaven 
strengthen  their  present  good-will,  and  grant 
them  perseverance.  Mention  is  already  made 
of  baptizing  all  the  Pegan  children,  but  the  cere- 
mony is  postponed  on  account  of  the  general 
rejoicing,  and  the  affairs  of  business  that  now 
occupy  the  camp. 

16th.  The  engaging  simplicity  and  cordiality 
of  the  Flat-Head  chiefs  have  gained  them  the 
affections  of  all  the  principal  men  of  the  Black- 
Feet  tribe, — conduct  the  more  remarkable,  when 
contrasted  with  the  turbulent  disposition  of  the 
Nez-Perces,  who  are  kept  in  check  only  by  the 
presence  of  the  Flat-Heads.  At  this  second 
separation,  they  came  again  to  renew  their  af- 
fection towards  us.  The  Flat-Head  chiefs  re- 
main last  in  the  camp  to  see  everything  pass  oil' 


I. 


UREGON       MISSIONS. 


325 


d  the  altar 
lan  oblation 
ing  unheard 
age  nations, 
,  unanimity 
lould  exist, 
y  feuds  had 
and  this  is 
lo,  it  is  well 
e  for  many 
[ay  Heaven 
and  grant 
ready  made 
ut  the  cerc- 
;he  general 
that  now 

1  cordiality 
1  them  the 

the  Black- 
table,  when 
ition  of  tlie 
only  by  the 
his  second 
w  their  af- 

chiefs  re- 
ing  pass  oil' 


orderly  and  amicably.  In  the  evening  the  Black- 
Feet  assemble  around  our  fire,  where  the  first 
canticle  is  composed  in  their  language  ;  the 
subject  of  the  composition  is  the  consecration 
of  their  persons  to  the  "  Supreme  Ruler  of  all 
things."  Apistotokie  Nina,  Pikanniai  tokanakos 
akos  pemmoki  tzagkoma  Achziewa  ziekamolos. 

17th.  Nothing  very  remarkable  took  place. 
We  received  the  visit  of  a  war  party  of  Blood 
Indians,  the  most  cruel  among  the  Black-Feet. 
From  them  we  learn  that  their  tribe  will  be  de- 
lighted to  receive  a  visit  from  us, — that  our  per- 
sons are  considered  sacred  among  them, — that 
we  need  apprehend  no  danger,  and,  to  remove 
all  uneasiness  on  this  head,  that  sixty  of  their 
children  had  already  received  baptism  at  the 
hands  of  a  Black-gown,  whom  they  met  on  the 
Sascatshawirif  and  that  these  children  constantly 
wear  the  crosses  and  medals  which  the  Black- 
gown  gave  them. 

18th.    News  in   great   variety.    Two  Gros- 

Ventres  have  been  killed  by  the  Crows.     Seven 

families  of  Pegans  have  been  followed   by  a 

numerous  band  of  Crees,   and  have   probably 

been  destroyed.     A  chief,  just  arrived,  informs 

us  that  Black-Feet  of  different  tribes  are  assem^ 

bling  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Lewis  to  re- 

15 


ill 


v' 


I 


i;. 


"A 
I 


-7 


If*!     'i 


h  k 


M^:  .^1 


•    i 


i: 


4 

ii 


^' 


326 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


ceive  their  annual  supplies,  and  that  the  traders 
who  bring  up  the  goods  are  distant  only  three 
days'  journey,  with  three  large  canoes  (Mackin- 
aw boats).  About  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
the  camp  prepares  for  another  great  hunt. 

19th.  Baptism  was  this  day  conferred  on  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  children  and  two  old 
men,  with  all  the  usual  ceremonies.  To  enter 
into  a  full  description  of  these,  calculated,  as 
they  are,  to  leave  a  deep  and  lasting  impression 
upon  the  minds  of  all  present,  would  be  but  a 
repetition  of  what  has  been  already  stated  in 
my  former  letters  on  the  like  occasions. 

20th.  Arrival  of  a  great  war  party  of  Blood 
Indians.  They  are  returning  from  an  expedition 
against  the  Crows,  having  carried  off  twenty- 
seven  horses  belonging  to  the  latter.  The  lead- 
ers of  this  party,  one  a  son,  the  other  a  brother 
of  the  great  chief,  exhibit  towards  us  particular 
marks  of  friendship.  The  elder,  who  worship- 
ed the  sun  and  moon,  has  long  since  ceased  to 
invoke  these  deities — he  confirms  the  statement 
of  the  other  party,  that  we  shaU  meet  with  a 
hearty  welcome  among  his  tribe.  The  Black- 
Feet  nation  consists  of  about  fourteen  thousand 
souls,  divided  into  six  tribes,  to  wit :  the  Pegans, 
the  Surcees^  tho  Blood  Indians,  the  Crros-  Ventres 


M 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


327 


the  traders 
only  three 
s  (Mackin- 
i  afternoon 
hunt.  • 
red  on  up- 
i  two  old 
To  enter 
julated,  as 
impression 
I  be  but  a 
T  Stated  in 

IS. 

y  of  Blood 
expedition 
ff  twenty- 
The  lead- 
a  brother 
particular 

0  worship- 
ceased  to 
statement 

3et  with  a 
riie  Black- 

1  thousand 
le  PeganSf 
as-  Ventres 


(descendants  of  the  Rapahos),  the  Black-Feet 
(proper),  and  the  Little  Robes.  These  last  were 
almost  entirely  destroyed  in  1845. 

21st.  A  feast  is  given  in  my  lodge  to  the  new- 
comers. It  is  preceded  by  the  baptism  of  a 
Pegan,  who  had  been  an  old  chief,  but  who,  on 
accojn;.  of  age,  resigned  the  dignity  of  his  title 
in  favor  of  his  brother.  He  possesses  the  gift 
of  speech  in  an  eminent  degree.  He  is  daily 
here,  repeating  and  commenting  on  the  in- 
structions given  by  us.  He  exercises  over  his 
flock  a  very  happy  influence,  and  it  is,  doubtless, 
owing  to  his  exertions  that  the  Pegans  are  the 
first  among  the  Black-Feet  tribe  to  manifest 
favorable  dispositions,  and  they  will  probably 
be  the  first  also  to  embrace  and  put  in  practice 
the  saving  truths  of  Christianity.  He  presents, 
in  hi3  own  person,  a  rare  exception  among  his 
people,  and  indeed  the  only  instance  I  have  met 
with  in  my  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  especi- 
ally in  one  of  his  age — of  an  Indian  having 
lived  with  one  and  the  same  wife,  and  with  her 
also  in  perfect  peace  and  harmony.  He  received 
in  baplism  the  united  m  "nc  of  Ignatius  Xavier, 
the  medal  having  that  imr. ess — which  he  con- 
stantly wears,  to  remind  him  of  the  virtues 
which   distinguish   those   saints.     Let  us  hope 


ri 


r '  )^-- 


pir 


4. 


II 


n: 


328 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


that  the  first  graces  bestowed  on  this  tribe  may 
soon  produce  fruits  of  salvation  to  all. 

22d.  A  day  of  great  rejoicing — a  dance.  All 
the  Indian  fineries  are  produced,  all  the  war- 
caps,  adorned  with  eagle  feathers,  figure  in  the 
dance — a  thousand  voices  join  in  the  song — the 
rejoicing  prolonged  till  evening.  The  common 
prayers  have  all  been  translated — already  seve- 
ral know  what  is  to  be  believed.  May  the  prac- 
tice of  good  soon  take  deep  root  in  their  hearts. 
Sata,  our  interpreter,  acts  the  part  of  an 
Apostle — after  each  interpretati  du,  he  resumes 
his  discourse,  and  speaking  from  the  abundance 
of  his  heart,  produces  a  powerful  effect  upon  his 
audience.  The  word  Sata  does  not  differ  in 
signification  from  Satan,  and  as  the  Indian  gen- 
erally receives  his  name  from  the  natural  dispo- 
sition he  manifests,  we  may  safely  conclude, 
when  such  a  name  is  given  to  a  Black-Foot,  that 
the  grace  of  God  has  operated  most  powerfully 
in  converting  this  savage  to  what  he  is  at  pre- 
sent. 

23d.  Nothing  remarkable  happened,  except  a 
trial  given  to  faith  of  the  new  catechumens.  A 
theft  of  two  horses  was  committed  in  the  camp 
V*"  a  stranger,  residing  among  the  Flat-Heads. 
Some  individuals  from  the  western  side  of  the 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


329 


^P^P^Vp9S 

¥ 

? 

tribe  may 

nee.  All 
the  war- 
are  in  the 
song — the 

common 
ady  seve- 
'  the  prac- 
;ir  hearts, 
rt   of   an 

resumes 
bundance 
t  upon  his 

differ  in 
dian  gen- 
ral  dispo- 
conclude, 
Foot,  that 
jwerfully 
[^  at  pre- 

except  a 
nens.  A 
the  camp 
it-IIeads. 
e  of  the 


mountains,  occasionally  forget  what  they  should 
be ;  but  a  few  isolated  misdeeds,  highly  disap- 
proved of  by  the  entire  nation,  show  to  the  best 
advantage  the  good  spirit  that  animates  the 
great  mass  of  them.  The  critical  position  of 
the  robber  serves  in  some  degree  as  an  extenu- 
ation of  his  guilt.  He  had  advanced  a  consid- 
erable distance  from  the  Flat-Head  camp,  on  his 
way  to  join  us  about  the  time  we  sLould  reach 
the  Black  Indians  ;  when  he  was  given  to  under- 
stand that  his  life  was  in  great  danger  from  the 
war  parties  prowling  in  the  rear.  The  poor 
fellow  did  not  feel  much  inclined  to  meet  death 
in  this  way,  and  his  meagre  horse  not  being 
very  well  able  to  avoid  the  meeting,  propria 
motu  he  left  his,  in  exchange  for  two  other  horses, 
fully  equal  to  the  task  of  sweeping  him  past  the 
danger.  These  horses  will,  however,  be  return- 
ed to  the  owner.  This  is  not  the  first  instance 
of  restitution  among  the  Indians. 

Sept.  24tl .  The  missionaries,  accompanied 
by  a  great  number  of  Indians,  precede  the  camp 
on  its  way  to  Fort  Lewis,  now  only  a  few  miles 
off.  I  am  accosted  by  a  little  Pegan  chief,  who 
invites  me  to  smoke.  lie  tells  me  that  he  has 
come  to  the  determination  of  settling  at  the  Fort 
an  unfortunate  personal  difficulty  between  him- 


*' .  <i 


:;K  v; 


t¥M  : 


h'  •► 


iif 


330 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


self  and  another  chief  of  the  Blood  Indian  tribe. 
"  I  am  going  to  meet,"  said  he,  "  my  mortal 
enemy,  a  Blood  Indian  chieftain,  renowned  /or 
his  courage,  but  much  more  for  his  wicked 
heart.  He  treacherously  murdered  a  Nez- 
Perce,  while  under  my  protection.  I  should  be 
dishonored  forever  if  I  did  not  avenge  this 
shameful  act,  and  wash  the  stain  from  my  na- 
tion in  his  blood.  I  shot  the  murderer  in  his 
own  lodge — he  did  not  die — his  wound  is  healed 
— he  awaits  my  arrival,  resolved  to  kill  me.  I 
dread  him  not,  for  I  also  am  a  chief  I  have 
heard  your  words,  and  other  feelings  have  crept 
over  my  heart.  Black-gown,  hear  what  I  am 
about  to  do :  I  will  present  to  him  the  best  horse 
of  my  band  to  cover  his  wound  ;  if  he  accepts 
it,  well  and  good,  if  not,  I  must  kill  him."  I  of- 
fered myself  as  a  mediator  between  them,  be- 
fore any  steps  should  be  taken,  and  promised 
him  a  favorable  issue,  according  to  the  convic- 
tion of  my  own  heart ;  for,  as  I  had  never  wit- 
nessed the  spilling  of  one  drop  of  human  blood, 
I  felt  assured  that  Almighty  God  would  spare 
me  the  painful  sight  on  the  present  occasion. 
We  continue  our  route.  The  little  chief  and  his 
Pegan  friends  prepare  their  arrows  and  load 
their  guns.     When  in  sight  of  the  Fort,  two 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


331 


dian  tribe. 
Tiy  mortal 
lowned  ibr 
is   wicked 
I    a    Nez- 
should  be 
enge   this 
om  my  na- 
erer  in  his 
d  is  healed 
nil  me.     I 
f.     I  have 
have  crept 
v^hat  I  am 
best  horse 
he  accepts 
im."     lof- 
L  them,  be- 
promised 
he  convic- 
iiever  wit- 
nan  blood, 
)uld  spare 
occasion, 
ief  and  his 
and  load 
Fort,  two 


Black-Feet  came  running  up  towards  us,  to  tell 
the  little  chief  that  if  he  approached  any  further, 
or  any  of  his  people,  their  lives  would  be  in 
danger ;  and  they  returned  as  they  came,  run- 
ning to  announce  the  arrival  of  the  Black-gowns. 
The  bell  of  the  Fort  is  sending  forth  a  solemn 
peal,  to  honor,  as  it  subsequently  appeared,  the 
arrival  of  the  Black-gowns — a  mark  of  respect 
generally  paid  to  a  priest  by  its  inmates,  who 
are  chiefly  French  Canadians  and  Spaniards. 
Heedless  of  the  admonition  we  had  received,  we 
proceeded  to  the  Fort  in  full  gallop.  The  gates 
were  thrown  open.  We  received  a  hearty  wel- 
come from  every  white  man  in  the  Fort ;  the 
bourgeois  being  absent,  soon  returned,  to  add 
by  their  kindness  and  politeness  to  the  warm 
reception  we  had  already  received  at  the  hands 
of  their  tenants.  The  first  compliments  over, 
two  horses  were  saddled  for  Father  Point  and 
myself,  when  we  went  over  to  an  island  formed 
by  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  where  the  mur- 
derer and  his  band  were  encamped.  The  great 
neatness  in  the  lodge  of  the  latter,  to  whom  I 
had  already  sent  word,  showed  that  it  was  pre- 
pared for  our  reception.  We  entered  first,  fol- 
lowed by  our  Pegan  friends ;  then  came  the 
Blood  Indians,  and  last  of  all  the  murderoua 


..^ 


332 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


A   '■*' 


chief,  with  a  countenance  far  from  serene — 
savage  vengeance  visibly  lurking  in  his  breast. 
He  shook  hands  only  with  the  Black-gowns,  and 
sat  down  silent  and  surly.  I  explained  to  him 
the  object  of  my  visit,  and  pleaded  strongly  for 
a  reconciliation,  declaring,  at  the  same  time,  that 
1  would  not  leave  his  lodge  until  I  should  see 
them  reconciled.  He  listened  with  much  atten- 
tion, made  a  very  appropriate  reply,  and  in  fin- 
ishing, he  exclaimed  :  "  all  is  forgiven  and  for- 
gotten. How  could  my  heart  remain  angry 
whilst  I  listened  to  thy  words?"  Confidence 
was  quickly  restored  in  the  assembly,  and  his 
short  but  eloquent  reply  showed  that  there  was 
eloquence  everywhere  when  the  heart  speaks. 
The  little  chief  who  had  first  spoken  of  recon- 
ciliation ended  his  remarks  by  an  action  that 
was  really  moving ;  stepping  up  to  the  man 
who  had  been  his  mortal  enemy,  he  tenderly 
embraced  him,  and  then,  in  addition  to  other 
gifts,  presented  him  with  a  beautifully-painted 
robe,  wrought  in  porcupine.  The  calumet  of 
peace  was  cheerfully  lighted,  and  passed  around 
several  times.  Conversation  became  animated 
and  friendly,  and  each  one  left  the  council-house 
with  a  light  and  glad  heart,  more  easily  felt  than 
described.     The  chiefs  who  were  present  on  this 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


fi  serene — 
his  breast, 
gowns,  and 
led  to  him 
strongly  for 
e  time,  that 
should  see 
luch  atten- 
and  in  fin- 
;n  and  for- 
lain  angry 
Confidence 
ly,  and  his 
;  there  was 
art  speaks, 
of  recon- 
Lction  that 
*  the  man 
e  tenderly 
n  to  other 
lly-painted 
lalumet  of 
sed  around 
;  animated 
incil-house 
y  felt  than 
lent  on  this 


333 


occasion  were  :  Amahzikinne,  or  the  Big  Lake  ; 
Onistaistamik,  or  White  Bull ;  Masleistamih,  or 
Bull-Crow;  AiketzOy  or  Grande  roulette;  Sata, 
or  the  wicked ;  Akaniaki,  or  the  man  who  was 
beaten. 

27th.  Sunday,  I  offered  up  the  Holy  Sacrifice 
of  the  Altar,  followed  by  an  instruction  on  the 
end  of  man,  at  which  all  the  inmates  of  Fort 
Lewis  attended,  together  with  as  many  Black- 
Feet  as  the  large  room  and  passage  could  con- 
tain. Many  a  tear  escaped  from  the  Canadian, 
the  Creole,  and  the  Spaniard,  at  the  remem- 
brance, no  doubt,  of  the  innocent  and  happy 
days  they  spent  when  young,  in  attending  regu- 
larly to  their  religious  duties.  Many  a  pious 
resolution  was  lowly  made  on  the  present  occa- 
sion, and  their  strict  attention  and  devout  feel- 
ings during  divine  service,  showed  that  the  germ 
of  faith  in  them  still  gave  promise  of  fructify- 
ing, however  far  they  may  have  wandered  from 
the  strict  line  of  Christian  rectitude.  In  the 
afternoon  I  administered,  with  all  the  ceremo- 
nies, the  sacrament  of  baptism  to  thirty  chil- 
dren. 

From  what  I  have  soon,  I  am  firmly  con- 
vinced of  the  great  good  a  missionary  establish- 
ment w^ould  produce   among  the   Black-Feet. 

15* 


.;t4? 


K 


ii. 


^■•;f  '- 


334 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


..': 


f  , 


Assuredly  it  is  a  work  well  worthy  the  zeal  of 
an  apostle :  to  reclaim  these  savages  from  their 
cruel  and  bloody  wars  ;  to  wrest  them  from  the 
soul-destroying  idolatry  in  which  they  are 
plunged,  for  they  are  worshippers  of  the  sun  and 
moon  :  and  to  teach  them  the  consolatory  truths 
of  the  Divine  Redeemer  of  mankind,  to  which 
they  seemed  to  listen  with  the  utmost  attention, 
and  heartfelt  satisfaction.  Allow  me  the  reflec- 
tion, the  ultimate  fate  of  these  fierce  and  lonely 
tribes  is  fixed  at  no  distant  date,  unless  looked 
to  in  time.  What  will  become  of  them  ?  The 
buffalo-field  is  becoming  narrower  from  year  to 
year,  and  each  succeeding  hunt  finds  the  Indians 
in  closer  contact.  It  is  highly  probable  that  the 
Black-Feet  plains,  from  the  Sascatshawin  to  the 
Yellow-Stone,  will  be  the  last  resort  of  the  wild 
animals  twelve  years  hence.  Will  these  be 
sufficient  to  feed  and  clothe  the  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants  of  these  western  wilds  ?  The 
Crees,  Black-Feet,  Assiniboins,  Crows,  Snakes, 
Rickaries,  and  Sioux,  will  then  come  together 
and  fight  their  bloody  battles  on  these  plains, 
and  become  themselves  extinct  over  the  last 
buffalo-steak.  Let  those,  who  have  the  power 
and  the  means,  look  to  it  in  time.  Let  some 
eftbrts  be  made  to  rescue  them  from  the  threat- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


335 


the  zeal  of 
5  from  their 
sm  from  the 

they  are 
the  sun  and 
atory  truths 
i,  to  which 
5t  attention, 
e  the  reflec- 
5  and  lonely 
iless  looked 
hem?  The 
rom  year  to 
i  the  Indians 
ible  that  the 
lawinto  the 
t  of  the  wild 
11  these  be 
ndred  thou- 
nlds  ?  The 
►vs,  Snakes, 
ne  together 
hese  plains, 
ler  the  last 
1  the  power 

Let  some 
I  the  threat- 


ened destruction,  lest,  by  guilty  negligence,  the 
last  drop  of  aboriginous  blood  indelibly  stain 
the  fair  fame  of  the  Spread  Eagle,  under  whose 
protecting  wing  they  are  said  to  live.  Justice 
makes  the  appeal. 

After  mature  deliberation  upon  the  various 
plans  devised  for  the  contemplated  establish- 
ment, it  was  deemed  more  advisable  that  tho 
Reverend  Father  Point  should  remain  with  the 
Black-Feet,  and  continue  the  instructions ;  while 
I  should  go  to  St.  Louis  and  endeavor  to  pro- 
cure the  means  necessary  to  establish  a  perma- 
nent mission  among  them.  Accordingly,  on  the 
28th,  I  took  final  leave  of  my  companions,  of 
the  kind  and  polite  gentlemen  of  the  Fort,  of  all 
the  Black-Feet  then  present,  who  ceased  not, 
during  my  stay  among  them,  to  give  me  the 
most  marked  tokens  of  affectionate  attachment. 
Our  departure  was  honored  by  the  Fort  with 
a  discharge  of  the  guns,  and  amidst  a  thousand 
farewells  we  glided  down  the  Missouri,  from  a 
point  2850  miles  above  its  mouth. 

We  left  the  Fort  about  noon,  and  encamped 
25  miles  below,  near  Bird  Island.  Next  day, 
while  passing  the  bluffs,  on  whose  steep  declivi- 
ties numerous  groups  of  the  big-horn  wer3 
browsing,  we  stole  a  march  upon  an  old  buck 


w' 


'M- 


336 


OREGON       Ml«SION«. 


that  came  to  drink  at  the  skater's  edge — the 
first  of  the  many  victims  sacaiiced  to  our  neces- 
sities during  this  long  trip.  After  passing  the 
Maria  and  Saury  rivers,  we  reach  the  remarka- 
ble formation,  the  yellow  sand-stone  walls,  on 
both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  exhibiting  most  fan- 
tastic shapes  and  fissures — urns,  of  various  sizes 
and  forms — tables  of  every  description — ros- 
trums, surrounded  by  mushrooms,  pillars,  forts, 
castles,  and  a  multitude  of  other  figures,  which, 
for  the  greater  part  of  this,  and  the  whole  of 
the  following  day,  furnished  to  our  almost  be- 
wildered fancies  ample  scope  for  comparisons 
and  theories.  We  passed,  on  the  8th  of  October, 
the  great  Elk-horn  steeple,  near  Porcupine  Fork. 
I  could  not  learn  what  extraordinary  event  this 
remarkable  tower  was  intended  to  commemo- 
rate. Several  thousand  elk-horns  have  been 
here  piled  up,  which  formerly  constituted,  I 
have  little  doubt,  the  grand  resort  of  numerous 
groups  of  these  animals.  On  the  1 1th  we  arriv- 
ed at  Fort  Union,  600  miles  distant  from  Fort 
Lewis,  this  making  about  50  miles  a  day.  Here 
we  met  with  a  very  warm  reception.  We 
availed  ourselves  of  the  kind  offer  given  to  us 
of  resting  a  day  at  the  Fort ;  while  there  I  bap- 
tized five  children.     We  left  the  Fort  on  the 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


387 


edge — the 

0  our  neces- 
passing  the 
le  remarka- 
e  walls,  on 
ig  most  fan- 
arious  sizes 
iption — ros- 
illars,  forts, 
ures,  which, 
le  whole   of 

almost  be- 
3omparisons 

1  of  October, 
lupine  Fork. 
y  event  this 

commemo- 
have  been 
instituted,  I 
f  numerous 
th  we  arriv- 
t  from  Fort 
day.  Here 
ption.  We 
?iven  to  us 
there  I  bap- 
♦"ort  on  the 


13th,  with  two  companions.  Large  herds  of 
buffalo  were  seen  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and 
bears,  deer  and  elks  appeared  at  every  bend,  so 
that  there  is  little  danger  of  suffering  from  want 
at  this  season.  On  the  16th  our  ardor  to  press 
forward,  in  spite  of  a  strong  head- wind,  was 
suddenly  cooled  by  a  side  wind,  which  upset 
the  skiff  and  ourselves  in  four  feet  of  water. 
We  were  now  satisfied  that  we  had  better  wait 
for  a  more  favorable  wind,  and  improve  the 
time  by  drying  our  clothes.  We  started  quite 
refreshed  in  the  afternoon,  and  made  up  for  the 
lost  time  by  running  sixty  miles  the  next  day. 
On  the  17th  we  met  six  lodges  of  Assiniboins  ; 
they  received  us  very  kindly  in  their  little 
camp, — gave  us  a  feast  and  abundance  of  pro- 
visions. The  same  day  we  met  eight  Gros- 
Ventres,  who  were  also  exceedingly  kind  to  us, 
insisting  on  our  accepting  a  lot  of  buffalo 
tongues.  A  favorable  wind  on  the  18th,  in- 
duced us  to  unfurl  our  sail.  We  were  thus  en- 
abled to  run  about  ten  miles  an  hour,  and  early 
next  day  we  reached  Fort  Berthold,  where  we 
were  kindly  entertained  by  Mr.  Brugere.  The 
Gros-Ventres  have  a  village  here.  I  found  but 
a  few  families  ; — one  of  the  chiefs  invited  me  to 
a  feast.     On  the  20th  we  were  hailed  by  sever- 


*i!     V 


338 


OREGON     Missions, 


1: 


i      .    '  '    f 

■  '^ 

(             , 

V 

■  _ 

1 

■  '-'It' 

I 

.» 

••'t'- 

1 

•1 

'-^ 

fr" 

I. 


lii 


P     ■■ 


i>i- 


ili; 


al  bands  of  Indians,  and  kindly  received.  We 
proceeded,  and  encamped  for  the  night  near 
Knife  river  ;  but  our  fire  discovered  our  encamp- 
ment to  a  band  of  Indians.  The  discovery  would 
have  been  fatal  to  us,  had  I  not  been  fortunately 
recognized  by  them ;  for  they  came  armed  for 
destruction,  and  took  us  by  surprise.  As  soon 
as  the  two  leaders  knew  who  I  was,  they  em- 
braced me  affectionately ;  our  alarm  was  soon 
quieted,  and  we  passed  the  evening  very  agree- 
ably in  their  company ;  a  good  smoke,  a  cup  of 
well  sweetened  coffee,  a  few  humps  and  buffalo 
tongues,  put  them  in  a  very  good  humour.  Taey 
made  me  a  solemn  promise,  that  they  would,  iii 
future,  never  molest  a  white  man.  They  were 
Arikaras.  The  next  day  we  breakfasted  at  Fort 
Madison,  with  the  good  and  kind-hearted  Mr.  Des 
Autel.  Shortly  after  leaving  this  Fort,  we  pass- 
ed under  a  scalp  attached  to  the  end  of  a  long 
pole,  which  projected  over  the  river.  This  was 
probably  an  offering  to  th^  sun,  to  obtain  either 
fresh  scalps  or  a  good  hunt.  We  were  hailed 
by  a  large  village  of  Arikaras,  encamped  and 
fortified  on  a  point  of  land  well  timbered.  They 
treated  us  with  great  kindness,  earnestly  press- 
ing me  to  accept  invitations  to  several  buffalo 
feasts ;  and  as  time  did  not  admit  of  such  delay. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


33& 


ived.     We 
light   near 
ir  encamp- 
i^ery  would 
brtunately 
armed  for 
As  soon 
1,  they  em- 
was  soon 
ery  agree- 
,  a  cup  of 
nd  buffalo 
)ur.    Taey 
would,  iu 
rhey  were 
ed  at  Fort 
3d  Mr.  Des 
t,  we  pass- 
of  a  long 
This  was 
ain  either 
Te  hailed 
tiped  and 
d.     They 
itly  press- 
tl  buffalo 
ch  delay, 


their  liberality  fell  little  short  of  sinking  the 
skiff,  with  the  most  dainty  pieces  of  the  hunt. 
Though  late,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
principally,  indeed,  to  avoid  passing  the  night  in 
feasting.  Having  had  very  favorable  weather 
during  the  five  following  days,  we  reached,  on 
the  26th,  the  encampment  of  Mr.  Goule,  an 
agent  in  the  service  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany. I  baptized  several  half-breed  children 
at  this  place. 

Availing  ourselves  of  the  favorable  weather 
the  four  following  days,  we  kept  on  the  river, 
drifting  down  every  night,  so  that  early  on  the 
30th,  we  arrived  at  Fort  Pierre.  Mr.  Picotte, 
of  St.  Louis,  received  us  with  the  utmost  cordi- 
ality and  politeness.  He  forced  me  to  remain 
three  days  under  his  hospitable  roof.  This  de- 
lay enabled  me  to  see  a  great  number  of  Sioux, 
and  baptize  fifty-four  children.  Meanwhile 
Mr.  Picotte  ordered  a  large  and  conveniei.  •. 
skiff  to  be  mp'le,  and  stored  it  with  ail  sorts  of 
provisions.  In  all  my  travels,  I  have  never  met 
one  to  surpass,  perhaps  to  ec^ual,  the  overflow- 
ing kindness  with  which  this  gentleman  confers 
a  favor.  I  cannot  sufRciently  express  my  grati- 
tude to  him.  May  God  bless  and  reward  him. 
And,  indeed,  I  must  here  add,  us  a  token  of  my 


m%^\M,. 


■  *'■ 


U'l: 


J'- 


I 


\  1 


m;-'| 


,.- 


•11 


340 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


sincere  grotitude,  that  in  all  the  forts  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  the  charitable  liberal- 
ity and  kindness  of  the  gentlemen  were  un- 
bounded. 

Late  on  the  3d  November  we  renewed  our 
journey,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  when  we 
found  it  necessary  to  refit  our  skiff,  which,  being 
quite  new,  leaks  considerably.  We  landed  at 
a  large  farm  belonging  to  the  company  on 
Fleury's  Island.  We  freely  used  the  permission 
given  to  us,  and  committed  great  havoc  among 
the  poultry.  On  the  5th  we  breakfasted  at  Mr. 
Rouis'  Fort,  where  I  baptized  thirteen  half-breed 
children — the  day  was  beautiful  and  we  made 
the  whole  of  the  Grande  Detour.  We  arrived 
at  Fort  Look-Out,  of  which  I  found  Mr.  Camp- 
bell in  charge.  I  baptized  here  sixteen  half- 
breed  children.  I  was  kindly  received  by  a 
a  great  number  of  Sioux.  We  encamped  nine 
miles  lower  down  at  a  trading  post  held  by 
two  Canadians,  where  I  baptized  four  children. 
On  the  10th  we  p.assed  the  entrance  of  Running- 
water  river,  a  fine  stream  with  a  strong  current. 
Two  miles  above  its  moutli  were  encamped  one 
hundred  families  of  the  unhappy  and  much- 
abused  Mormons — mot  several  Sioux  about 
Great  Island,  where  we  encamped.     A  favora- 


J5  R  EG  (YS M  IS  S  I  O  N  S  . 


341 


rts  of  the 
>le  liberal- 
were   un- 

lewed  our 
when  we 
ich,  being 
landed  at 
npany  on 
)ermission 
oc  among 
cd  at  Mr. 
lalf-breed 
we  made 
e  arrived 
r.  Camp- 
t-en  half- 
v^ed  by  a 
iped  nine 

held  by 
children. 
Running- 
^  current, 
nped  one 
d  much- 
X    about 

favora- 


ble wind  enabled  us  to  reach  Fort  Vermilion 
on  the  13th,  four  hundred  miles  below  Fort 
Pierre.  I  baptized  seven  half-breed  children. 
Mr.  Hamilton  liberally  supplied  us  with  provi- 
sions. On  the  14th  we  saw  a  Mormon  along 
the  beach,  who  fled  at  our  approach.  We  met 
two  Canadians  who  had  shot  a  fine  turkey, 
which  they  gave  me  :  in  return  I  presented  them 
with  some  coffee  and  sugar,  rare  articles  in 
that  country.  A  fine  breeze  brought  us  in 
sight  of  the  old  Council  Bluffs  on  the  18th.  The 
river  has  made  considerable  changes  since  my 
former  visit  to  this  place  ;  entirely  new  beds 
have  been  formed.  For  several  hundred  miles, 
all  the  forests  along  the  south  side  of  the  river 
were  filled  with  cattle  belonging  to  the  Mor- 
mons. On  the  18th  we  passed  the  ancient  tra- 
ding post,  Lisel  de  Cabanne's — a  few  mih^s  ])e- 
low  is  the  new  temporary  settlement  of  the 
Mormons,  about  ten  thousand  in  number.  I 
wns  presented  to  their  president,  Mr.  Young,  a 
kind  and  polite  gentleman.  ITe  pressed  me 
very  earnestly  to  remain  a  fe\»/  dnys,  an  invita- 
tion which  my  limited  time  did  not  permit  me 
to  accept.  The  persecutions  and  sufferings  en- 
dured by  this  unhappy  people,  will  one  day 
probably  form  a  prominent  part  of  the  history 


i 

*;':'■  ^ 


1^  ^' 


if 


«l  «' 


^42^ 


ORE  iyJTH       BO  S  B  I  O  NST 


of  the  Far- west.  At  sun-set  we  encamped  at 
Mr.  Sarpy's  trading  post,  among  the  upper 
Potawotomies,  where  I  met  several  of  my  old 
Indian  friends,  and  among  them  Potogqjecs,  one 
of  their  chiefs,  whose  Indian  legend  of  their  re- 
ligious traditions  will  form  the  subject  of  my 
next  letter. 

20th.  A  beautiful  day — we  visited  our  old 
friends  in  Bellevuc,  the  good  Mr.  Papin  and 
others.  We  passed  the  Papillion,  the  Mosquito, 
and  the  Platte  rivers,  and  encamped  near 
Table  Creek. 

On  the  23d  we  arrived  at  St.  Joseph's,  the 
fiighest  town  in  Missouri.  It  is  now  in  a  most 
thrivina^  and  prosperous  condition ;  much  im- 
proved indeed  since  I  last  saw  it. 

28th.  We  arrived  at  West-Port,  from  which  I 
proceeded  by  stage  to  St.  Louis,  the  termination 
of  a  trip  which  occupied  just  two  months.  I  re- 
commend myself  to  your  prayers. 

I  remain,  with  sentiments  of  profound  respect 
and  esteem,  your  obedient  servant  and  brother 
in  Christ. 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


1 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


343 


camped  at 
the  upper 
of  my  old 
gojecs,  one 
)f  their  re- 
ject of  my 

d  our  old 
Papin  and 
;  Mosquito, 
fiped    near 

)seph's,  the 
in  a  most 
much    im- 

n  which  I 
rmination 
ths.  I  re- 
nd respect 
id  brother 

I  1 ,  o.  J. 


No.  XXV. 


A.  M.  D.  G. 


LEGEND    OF    THE    POTAVVOTOMIE    INDIANS. 

St.  Louis  University, 

January  10,  1847. 

Very  FiEV.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial, — 
Agreeably  to  my  promise,  I  send  you  the  ac- 
count given  by  the  Potawotomies,  residing  at 
Council  Bluffs,  respecting  their  own  origin,  and 
the  causes  which  gave  rise  to  their  "  great 
medicine,"  and  juggling,  considered  by  them  as 
of  the  highest  antiquity.  Such  superstitions, 
indeed,  are  found  to  exist  among  all  the  tribes 
of  the  American  continent,  dilfcring  only  in  the 
form  and  the  accompanying  ceremonies.  The 
Nanaboojoo  oC  the  Potawotomies,  the  Wieska  of 
the  Objibbeways.  the  Wizakeshak  of  tin  Crees, 
the  Sauteux  aju^  the  Black-Feet,  the  Etalapasse 
of  the  Tchinouks  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific, 
can,  among  these  different  tribes,  be  traced  up 
to  the  same  personage. 


r  ^ 


m 


'# 


£  i  IP 

•I  ''''ii 


|:|^  :;   ■ffe^l^i^       I 


i 


344 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


I  send  it  verhatimy  as  it  was  communicated  to 
me  by  Potogojecs,  one  of  the  most  intelligent 
chiefs  of  the  Potawotomie  nation.  Though  fabu- 
lous, it  is  not  entirely  devoid  of  interest ;  it 
should  excite  us  to  offer  up  our  prayers  the 
more  fervently  to  the  Great  Father  of  Light,  for 
these  poor  benighted  children  of  the  forest,  and 
beg  of  Him  to  send  good  and  worthy  laborers 
into  this  vast  vineyard.  Having  enquired  of 
this  chief  what  he  thought  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
of  the  Creator,  and  of  the  origin  of  his  religion, 
or  great  medicine,  he  replied  as  follows :  "  I 
will  give  you  a  faith iVil  account  of  what  my 
tribe  believes  in  these  matters.  We  have  not, 
like  you,  books  to  transmit  our  traditions  to  our 
children ;  it  is  the  duly  of  the  old  men  of  the 
nation  to  instruct  the  young  people  in  whatever 
relates  to  their  belief,  and  their  happiness. 

"  Many  among  us  believe,  that  there  are  two 
Great  Spirits  who  govern  the  universe,  but  who 
are  constantly  at  war  with  each  other.  One  is 
called  ihe  Kclicmnito^  that  is,  the  Great  Spirit, 
the  other  Mchcmnito,  or  the  Wicked  Spirit. 
The  first  is  goodness  itself,  and  his  beneficent 
infiuence  is  felt  everywhere  ;  but  the  second  is 
wi.^i'.ed  ii'ss  personilied,  and  does  nothing  but 
eviL      Some    ^K'lievc    that    they    are    equally 


.A- 


OREO  ON      MISSIONS. 


345 


nunicated  to 

5t  intelligent 

rhough  fabu- 

interest ;  it 

prayers   the 

of  Light,  for 

e  forest,  and 

thy   laborers 

enquired  of 

Great  Spirit, 

his  religion, 

follows :    "  I 

of  what  my 

Ne  have  not, 

litions  to  our 

men  of  the 

in  whatever 

piness. 

ere  are  two 

se,  but  who 

i(3r.     One  is 

p'at   Spirit, 

ked   Spirit. 

beneficent 

<'  second  is 

lothing  but 

re    equally 


I 


powerful,  and,  through  fear  of  the  Wicked 
Spirit,  offer  to  him  their  homage  and  adoration. 
Others,  again,  are  doubtful  which  of  *'  "m 
should  be  considered  the  more  powerful,  and 
accordingly  endeavor  to  propitiate  both,  by 
offering  to  each  an  appropriate  worship.  The 
greater  part,  however,  believe  as  I  do,  that 
Kchemnito  is  the  first  principle,  the  first  great 
cause,  and  consequently  ought  to  be  all-power- 
ful, and  to  whom  alone  is  due  all  worship  and 
adoration ;  and  that  Mchemnito  ought  to  be 
despised  and  rejected ! 

"  Kchemnito  at  first  created  a  world,  which 
he  filled  with  a  race  of  beings  having  nothing 
but  the  appearance  of  men — perverse,  ungrate- 
ful, wicked  dogs — that  never  raised  their  eyes  to 
heaven  to  implore  the  assistance  of  the  Great 
Spirit.  Such  ingratitude  aroused  him  to  anger, 
and  he  plunged  the  world  in  a  great  lake,  where 
they  were  all  drowned.  His  anger  thus  ap- 
peased, he  withdrew  it  from  the  waters,  and 
created  anew  a  beautiful  young  man,  who, 
however,  appeared  very  sad,  and  being  dissatis- 
fied with  his  solitary  condition,  grew  weary  of 
life.  Kchemnito  took  pity  on  him,  and  gave 
him,  during  sleep,  a  sister,  as  a  companion  to 
cheer  his  loneliness.     "When  he  awoke  and  saw 


fc'^'':m:  :k. 


346 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


his  sister  he  rejoiced  exceedingly — his  melan- 
choly instantly  disappeared.  They  spent  their 
time  in  agreeable  conversation  and  amusement, 
living  for  many  years  together  in  a  state  of 
innocence  and  perfect  harmony,  without  the 
slighest  incident  to  mar  the  happiness  of  their 
peaceful  solitude. 

"  The  young  man  had  a  dream,  for  the  first 
time,  which  he  communicated  to  his  sister, 
*Five  young  men,'  said  he,  *  will  come  this 
night,  and  rap  at  the  door  of  the  lodge — the 
Great  Spirit  forbids  you  to  laugh,  to  look  at 
them,  or  give  an  answer  to  any  of  the  first 
four,  but  laugh,  look,  and  speak,  when  the  fifth 
presents  himself  She  acted  according  to  his 
advice.  When  she  heard  the  voice  of  the  fifth, 
she  opened  the  door  to  him,  laughing  at  the 
same  time  very  heartily  ;  he  entered  immediate- 
ly, and  became  her  husband.  The  first  of  the 
Rve  strangers,  called  Sama,  (tobacco.)  having 
received  no  answer,  died  of  grief;  the  three 
others,  Wapekone,  (pumpkin,)  Eshketamok, 
(water-melon,)  and  Kojees,  (the  bean.)  shared 
the  fate  of  their  companion.  Taaman,  (maize,) 
the  bridegroom,  buried  his  four  companions,  and 
from  their  graves  there  sprung  up,  shortly  after, 
pumpkins,  water-melons,   beans,   and  tobacco- 


...^tSSSS^ 


— his  melan- 
'■  spent  their 
amusement, 
1  a  state  of 
without  the 
less  of  their 

for  the  first 

)   his   sister, 

1  come   this 

1  lodge — the 

,   to  look  at 

of  the  first 

hen  the  fifth 

rding  to  his 

of  the  fifth, 

hing  at  the 

immediate- 

irst  of  the 

CO.)  having 

the  three 

shketamok, 

an,)  shared 

m,  (maize,) 

anions,  and 

ortly  after, 

id  tobacco- 


r^ 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


347 


plants  in  sufficient  abundance  to  supply  their 
wants  during  the  whole  year,  and  enable  them 
to  smoke  to  the  manitous,  and  in  the  council. 
From  this  union  are  descended  the  American 
Indian  nations. 

"  A  great  manitou  came  on  earth,  and  chose 
a  wife  from  among  the  children  of  men.  He 
had  four  sons  at  a  birth  ;  the  first  born  was 
called  Nanaboojoo,  the  friend  of  the  human 
race,  the  mediator  between  man  and  the  Great 
Spirit;  the  second  was  named  Chipiapoos,  the 
man  of  the  dead,  who  presides  over  the  country 
of  the  souls  ;  the  third,  Wabosso,  as  soon  as  he 
saw  the  light,  fled  towards  the  north,  where  he 
was  changed  into  a  white  rabbit,  and  under  that 
name  is  considered  there  as  a  great  manitou ; 
the  fourth  was  Chakekenapok,  the  man  of  flint, 
or  fire-stone.  In  coming  into  th^  world  he  caus- 
ed the  death  of  his  mother. 

"  Nanaboojoo,  having  arrived  at  the  age  of 
manhood,  resolved  to  avenge  the  death  of  his 
mother,  (for  among  us  revenge  is  considered 
honorable) ;  he  pursued  Chakekenapok  all  over 
the  globe.  Whenever  he  could  come  within 
reach  of  his  brother,  he  fractured  some  member 
of  his  bou^ ,  and  after  several  renconters,  finally 
destroyed  him  by  tearing  out  his  entrails.     All 


"4i 


fi 


'•f 


348 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


bf"        ^ 


tiiii 


H 

5  * 


fragments  broken  from  the  body  of  this  man  of 
stone  then  grew  up  into  large  rocks  ;  his  entrails 
were  changed  into  vines  of  every  species,  and 
took  deep  root  in  all  the  forests ;  the  flint-stones 
scattered  around  the  earth  indicate  where  the 
different  combats  took  place.  Before  fire  was 
introduced  among  us,  Nanaboojoo  taught  our 
ancestors  how  to  form  hatchets,  lances,  and  the 
points  of  arrows,  in  order  to  assist  us  in  killing 
our  enemies  in  war,  and  animals  for  our  food. 
Nanaboojoo  and  his  brother,  Chipiapoos,  lived 
together  retired  from  the  rest  of  mankind,  and 
were  distinguished  from  all  other  beings  by 
their  superior  qualities  of  body  and  mind.  The 
manitous  that  dwell  in  the  air,  as  well  as  those 
who  inhabit  the  earth  and  the  waters,  envied 
the  power  of  these  brothers,  and  conspired  to 
destroy  them.  Nanaboojoo  discovered  and 
eluded  their  snares,  and  warned  Chipiapoos  not 
to  separate  himself  from  him  a  single  moment. 
Notwithstanding  this  admonition,  Chipiapoos 
ventured  alone  one  day  upon  Lake  Michigan  ; 
the  manitous  broke  the  ice,  and  he  sank  to  the 
bottom,  where  they  hid  the  body.  Nanaboojoo 
became  inconsolable  when  he  missed  his  brother 
from  his  lodge  ;  he  sought  him  everywhere  in 
vain,  he  waged  war  against  all  the  manitous, 


r  s. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


341) 


of  this  man  of 

ks ;  his  entrails 

•y  species,  and 

the  flint-stones 

;ate  where  the 

Before  fire  was 

joo  taught  our 

lances,  and  the 

St  us  in  killing 

[s  for  our  food. 

ipiapoos,  lived 

mankind,  and 

her  beings  by 

id  mind.     The 

s  well  as  those 

waters,  envied 

i  conspired  to 

scovered    and 

hipiapoos  not 

ngle  moment. 

n,   Chipiapoos 

ie  Michigan  ; 

e  sank  to  the 

Nanaboojoo 

ed  his  brother 

verywhere  in 

he  manitous, 


and  precipitated  an  infinite  number  of  them  into 
the  deepest  abyss.  He  then  wept,  disfigured 
his  person,  and  covered  his  head,  as  a  sign  of 
his  grief,  during  six  years,  pronouncing  from 
time  to  time,  in  sad  and  mournful  tones,  the 
name  of  the  unhappy  Chipiapoos. 

"While  this  truce  continued,  the  manitous 
consulted  upon  the  means  best  calculated  to  ap- 
pease the  anger  of  Nanaboojoo,  without,  ho^v■« 
ever,  coming  to  any  conclusion  ;  when  four  of 
the  oldest  and  wi  >l,  who  had  had  no  hand  in 
the  death  of  Chipiapoos,  ofi'ered  to  accomplish 
the  difficult  task.  They  built  a  lodge  close  to 
that  of  Nanaboojoo,  prepared  an  excellent  re- 
past, and  filled  a  calumet  with  the  most  exqui- 
site tobacco.  They  journeyed  in  silence  to- 
wards their  redoubted  enemy,  each  carrying 
under  his  arm  a  bag,  formed  of  the  entire  skin 
of  some  animal,  an  otter,  a  lynx,  or  a  beaver, 
well  provided  with  the  most  precious  medicines, 
(to  which,  in  their  superstitious  practices,  they 
attach  a  supernatural  power).  With  many 
kind  expressions,  they  begged  that  he  would 
condescend  to  accompany  them.  He  arose  im- 
mediately, uncovered  his  head,  washed  himself, 
and  followed    them.      When  arrived   at   their 

lodge,  they  oftered  him  a  cup  containing  a  dose 

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350 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


of  their  medicine,  preparatory  to  his  initiation. 
Nanaboojoo  swallowed  the  contents  at  a  single 
draught,  and  found  himself  completely  restored. 
They  then  commenced  their  dances  and  their 
songs  ;  they  also  applied  their  medicine  bags, 
which,  after  gently  blowing  them  at  him,  they 
would  then  cast  on  the  ground  ;  at  each  fall  of 
the  medicine  bag,  Nanaboojoo  perceived  that 
his  melancholy,  sadness,  hatred,  and  anger  dis- 
appeared, and  affections  of  an  opposite  nature 
took  possession  of  his  soul.  They  all  joined  in 
the  dance  and  song — they  ate  and  smoked  to- 
gether. Nanaboojoo  thanked  them  for  having 
initiated  him  in  the  mysteries  of  their  grand 
medicine. 

"  The  manitous  brought  back  the  lost  Chipia- 
poos,  but  it  was  forbidden  him  to  enter  the 
lodge;  he  received,  through  a  chink,  a  burning 
coal,  and  was  ordered  to  go  and  preside  over 
the  region  of  souls,  and  there,  for  the  happiness 
of  his  uncles  and  aunts,  that  is,  lor  all  men  and 
women,  who  should  repair  thither,  kindle  wilh 
this  coal  a  fire  which  should  never  be  extin- 
guished. 

"Nanaboojoo  then  re-descended  upon  earth, 
and,  by  order  of  the  Great  Spirit,  initiated  all 
his  family  in  the  mysteries  of  the  grand  medi- 


OREGON       MISSiONS. 


351 


I 


cine.  lie  procured  for  each  of  them  a  bag  well 
furnished  with  mediciiu's,  giving  them  strict 
orders  to  perpetuate  these  ceremonies  among 
their  descendants,  adding  at  the  same  time,  that 
these  practices,  religiously  observed,  would  cure 
their  maladies,  procure  them  abundance  in  the 
chase,  and  give  them  complete  victory  over 
their  enemies.  (All  their  religion  consists  in 
these  superstitious  practices,  dances  and  songs ; 
they  have  the  most  implicit  faith  in  these 
strange  reveries.) 

"  Nanaboqjoo  is  our  principal  intercessor  with 
the  Great  Spirit ;  he  it  was  that  obtained  for  us 
the  creation  of  animals  forour  food  and  raiment. 
He  has  caused  to  grow  those  roots  and  herbs 
which  arc  endowed  with  the  virtue  of  curing 
our  maladies,  and  of  enabling  us,  in  time  of 
famine,  to  kill  the  wild  animals.  lie  has  left 
the  care  of  them  to  Mesakkummikokwi,  the 
great-grandmother  of  the  human  race,  and  in 
order  that  we  should  never  invoke  her  in  vain, 
it  has  been  strictly  enjoined  on  the  old  woman 
never  to  quit  the  dwelling.  Hence,  when  an 
Indian  makes  the  collection  of  roots  and  herbs 
which  arc  to  serve  him  as  medicines,  he  de- 
posits, at  the  same  time,  on  the  earth,  a  small 


'}.  t. 


•■n  • 

'if* 


352 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


■(■■■ 


:4l     :j  ■ 


fiV:        '.), 


1 .  « 


1:^. 


4 
1     , 


* 

.1'. 

1. 

'•  1  ' 

a 

Hi 

f 

^li 

J 


^ 


* 


offering  to  Mcsakkummikokwi.  During  his 
different  excursions  over  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
Nanaboojoo  killed  all  such  animals  as  were 
hurtful  to  us,  as  the  mastodon,  the  mammoth, 
etc.  He  has  placed  four  beneficial  spirits  at  the 
four  cardinal  points  of  the  earth,  for  the  purpose 
of  contributing  to  the  happiness  of  the  human 
race.  That  of  the  north  procures  for  us  ice 
and  snow,  in  order  to  aid  us  in  discovering  and 
following  the  wild  animals.  That  of  the  south 
gives  us  that  which  occasions  the  growth  of  our 
pumpkins,  melons,  maizes  and  tobacco.  The 
spirit  placed  at  the  west  gives  us  rain,  and  that 
of  the  efist  gives  us  light,  and  commands  the 
sun  to  make  his  daily  walks  around  the  globe. 
The  thunder  we  hear  is  the  voice  of  spirits, 
having  the  form  of  large  birds,  which  Nana- 
boojoo has  placed  in  the  clouds.  When  they 
cry  very  loud  we  burn  some  tobacco  in  our 
cabins,  to  make  them  a  smoke-offering  and  ap- 
pease them. 

"  Nanaboojoo  yet  lives,  resting  himself  after 
his  labors,  upon  an  immense  flake  of  ice,  in  the 
Great  Lake,  (the  North  Sea).  We  fear  that  the 
whites  will  one  day  discover  his  retreat,  and 
drive  him  off,  then  the  end  of  the  world  is  at 


ORE  GOV       MISSIONS. 


353 


During?  his 
)i'  the  eartli, 
Is   as  were 

mammoth, 
pirits  at  the 
the  purpose 

the  human 

lor  us  ice 
jveriiij;^  and 
)!'  the  south 
owlhofour 
icco.  The 
in,  and  that 
amands  the 
d  the  <i:lobe. 
^  of  spirits, 
lich  Nana- 
When  they 
ceo  in    our 

ng  and  ap- 

mself  after 

ice,  in  the 

rar  that  the 

etreat,   and 

world  is  at 


hand,  for  as  soon  as  he  puts  foot  on  the  earth, 
tlie  whoh^  universe  will  take  fire,  and  every 
livinjj^  creature  will  perish  in  the  flames!" 

In  theirfestivities  and  relij!:ious  assemblies,  all 
their  sonjj^s  turn  upon  some  one  or  other  of  these 
fables.  When  the  chief  had  finished  this  history, 
I  asked  him  wln'ther  he  had  anv  faith  in  what 
he  had  just  related.  "  Assuredly  I  have,  for  I 
have  had  the  ha])piness  to  see  and  entertain 
three  old  men  of  my  nation,  who  pen(;tratcd  far 
into  th<;  north,  and  were  admitted  into  the 
presence  of  Nanaboojoo,  with  whom  they  con- 
versed a  hnv^  time.  Ue  confirmed  all  that  I 
have  n^counted  to  \  ou  !  " 

Our  savaj^es  brdievi^that  the  souls  of  the  dead, 
in  their  Journey  to  the  great  prairie  of  their  .m- 
cestors,  pass  a  rapid  current,  over  which  the 
only  bridge  is  a  single  tre<',  kept  constantly  in 
violent  agitation,  managed,  however,  in  such  a 
way,  that  the  souls  of  perfect  men  pass  it  in 
safety,  whilst  those  of  the  wicked  slip  oflf  the 
tree  into  the  water  and  are  lost  forever. 

Such  is  th(^  narration  given  to  me  by  the 
Potawotomi  chief,  comprising  all  the  articles  of 
the  creed  held  by  this  tribe,  we  can  hardly  fail 
to  recognize  in  it,  much  obscured  by  the  accu- 
mulation of  ages,  the  tradition  of  the  universal 


M' 


ir-  >iii 


\i  »^ 


354 


OR  EGON       MISSIONS. 


deluge,  of  the  creation  of  the  universe,  of  Adam 
and  Eve  ;  even  some  traces  of  the  incarnation 
are  found  in  the  birth  of  Nanaboojoo,  he  was 
descended  of  parents,  one  of  whom  only,  his 
mother,  was  of  the  human  race  ;  he  is,  moreover, 
the  intercessor  between  God  and  man. 

I  recommend  myself  to  your  prayers. 

I  remain,  with  sentiments  of  profound  respect 
and  esteem,  your  obedient  humble  J^ervant  and 
brother  in  Christ. 

P.  J.  DE  SMET,  S,  J. 


I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


355 


No.  XXVI. 


A.  M.    D.   G. 


Philadelphia,  April  6th,  1847. 
Mr.  J.  D.  Bryant, 
Dear  Sir, — The  nation  of  the  Pawnees  is  di- 
vided into  four  great  tribes,  which  act  in  concert 
as  one  people.  They  liave  their  villages  upon 
the  river  Platte,  or  Nebrasca,  and  its  tributaries, 
about  150  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  river. 
They  are  the  same  true  children  of  the  desert 
as  they  have  been  these  many  ages. — They 
dress  in  the  skins  of  animals  killed  in  the  chase. 
They  cultivate  inaize  and  squashes,  using  the 
shoulder-blade  of  the  buffalo  as  a  substitute  for 
the  plough  and  hoe.  In  the  season  of  the  chase, 
a  whole  village,  men,  women,  and  children, 
abandon  tlnMr  settlements  and  go  in  pursuit  of 
the  animals  whose  flesh  supplies  them  with  food. 
Their  huts,  which  they  call  akkaros,  are  circu- 
lar, and  about  140  feet  in  circumference.  They 
are  ingeniously  fcrmed  by  planting  young  trees 


356 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


at  suitable  distancos  apart,  then  bonding  and 
joining  thrir  tops  to  a  nuirdxT  of  pillars  or  posts 
fixed  circularly  in  the  centre  of  the  enclosure. 
The  trees  are  then  covered  with  bark,  over 
which  is  thrown  a  layer  of  earth,  nearly  a  foot 
in  thickness,  and  finally,  a  solid  mass  of  green 
turf  completes  the  structure.  These  dwellings, 
thus  eoini)leted,  resemble  hillocks.  A  large 
aperture  in  the  top  serves  to  admit  the  light  and 
also  to  emit  the  smoke.  They  are  very  warm 
in  winter,  and  cool,  but  oftentimes  very  damp, 
in  summer.  They  arc  large  enough  to  contain 
ten  or  a  dozen  families. 

If,  in  the  long  journeys  which  they  undertake 
in  search  of  game,  any  should  be  impeded, 
either  by  age  or  sickness,  their  children  or  rela- 
tions make  a  small  hut  of  dried  grass  to  shelter 
them  from  the  heat  of  the  sun  or  from  the 
weather,  leaving  as  much  provision  as  they  are 
able  to  spare,  and  thus  abjuidon  them  to  their 
des  iny.  Nothing  is  more  touching  than  this 
constrained  separation,  caused  by  absolute  ne- 
cessity— the  tears  find  cries  of  the  children  on 
the  one  hand,  and  the  calm  resignation  of  the 
ajfed  father  or  mother  on  the  other.  They  often 
enr'ourage  their  children  not  to  expose  their 
own  lives  in  order  to  i)rolong  their  short   rem- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


357 


nant  of  time.  Thry  arc  anxious  to  depart  on 
their  lon^  Journey,  and  to  Join  their  ancestors 
in  the  huntinjj-jyrounds  of  tlie  Great  Spirit.  If, 
some  days  after,  thev  are  successful  in  the 
chase,  they  return  as  quickly  .as  possible  to  ren- 
der assistance  and  consolation.  These  practices 
are  common  to  all  the  nomadic  tribes  of  the 
mountains. 

The  Pawnees  have  nearly  the  same  ideas 
concerning;  the  universal  delui^e  as  those  which 
I  have  given  of  the  Potawotomies.  In  relation 
to  the  soul,  they  say,  that  th(«r(*  is  a  resemblance 
in  the  body  which  does  not  die,  but  detaches  it- 
self when  the  body  expires.  If  a  man  has  been 
good  during  this  life,  kind  to  his  parents,  a  good 
hunter,  a  good  warrior,  his  soul  (sa  rr.v.vrm- 
hlaticc)  is  transported  into  a  land  of  delights, 
abundance,  an-v  pleasun^s.  If,  on  the  contrary, 
a  man  has  been  vicked,  hard-hearted,  cruel  and 
indolent,  his  soul  passes  through  narrow  straits, 
diflicult  and  dangerous,  into  a  country  where  all 
is  confusion,  contrariety  and  unhappiness. 

In  their  religious  ceremonies,  they  dance,  sing 
and  pray  before  a  bird  stuffed  with  all  kinds  of 
roots  and  herbs  used  in  their  superstition.  They 
have  a  fabulous  tradition,  which  teaches  them 
that  the  morning  star  sent  this  bird  to  their  an- 


♦»■: 


r-  I' 


I, 


■  i  •- 


|»lf  1 


ii 


358 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


ccstors,  as  its  representative,  with  orders  to  in- 
voke it  on  all  important  occasions  and  to  exhibit 
it  in  times  of  sacrifice.  Before  the  invocation, 
they  fill  the  calumet  with  the  sacred  herb  con- 
tained in  the  bird.  They  then  puff  out  the 
smoke  towards  the  star,  offer  the  prayers  and 
make  their  demands,  dancing  and  singing,  and 
celebrating  in  verses  the  great  power  of  the 
bird.  They  implore  its  assistance  and  its  favor, 
whether  to  obtain  success  in  hunting  or  in  war, 
or  to  demand  snow  in  order  to  make  the  buffalo 
descend  from  the  mountains,  or  to  appease  the 
Great  Spirit  when  a  public  calamity  befalls  the 
nation,  or  a  family,  or  even  a  single  person.  The 
Pawnees  are  one  of  the  few  aboriginal  tribes, 
which,  descending  from  the  ancient  Mexicans, 
are  guilty  of  offering  human  sacrifices.  In  order 
to  justify  this  barbarous  practice,  they  say  that 
the  morning  star  taught  them  by  means  of  the 
bird,  that  such  sacrifices  were  agreeable  to  it, 
and  would  bring  down  upon  the  nation  the 
favor  of  the  great  Deliberator*  of  the  universe. 
They  are  firmly  persuaded  that  human  sacrifices 
are  most  agreeable  to  the  Great  Spirit.  Hence, 
when  the  Pawnee  takes  a  prisoner  and  wishes 


p:m^m 


*  A  name  which  they  give  to  the  Groat  Spirit. 


r  i 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


359 


orders  to  in- 
nd  to  exhibit 
('  invocation, 
nd  herb  con- 
pufT  out  the 
prayers  and 
singing,  and 
ower  of  the 
md  its  favor, 
ig  or  in  war, 
c  the  buflalo 
appease  the 
y  befalls  the 
person.    The 
ginal  tribes, 
it  Mexicans, 
es.    In  order 
hey  say  that 
leans  of  the 
ieable  to  it, 
nation  the 
he  universe, 
an  sacrifices 
rit.    Hence, 
and  wishes 

Spirit. 


to  render  himself  acceptable  to  Heaven,  he  de- 
votes it  to  the  morning  star.  At  the  time  of 
sacrifice,  he  delivers  the  prisoner  over  into  the 
hands  of  the  jugglers ;  soon  after  which,  com- 
mence the  ceremonies  preparatory  to  the  offer- 
ing. I  was  in  the  neighborhood  when  one  of 
these  bloody  sacrifices  took  place,  and  the  par- 
ticulars, which  I  am  about  to  relate,  were  re- 
ported to  me  by  worthy  eye-witnesses. 

The  victim  in  this  horrid  transaction  was  a 
young  8ioux  girl,namcd  Dakotha,  aged  15  years, 
who  had  been  taken  prisoner  by  the  Pawnees 
about  six  months  previous  to  her  immolation. 
During  the  months  of  her  captivity,  Dakotha 
received  from  the  Pawnees  every  mark  of  re- 
gard which  savages  are  capable  of  bestowing. 
She  was  an  honored  guc^st  at  all  the  fetes  and 
festivities  of  the  village  ;  and  everywhere  was 
treated,  in  appearance  at  least,  rather  as  a  fond 
friend  than  as  a  prisoner.  It  is  the  custom  thus 
to  prepare  the  victim,  in  order  to  conceal  their 
infernal  design. 

The  month  of  April  being  the  season  for 
planting,  is  on  that  account  selected  for  the 
offering  of  their  abominable  sacrifices.  To  this 
end,  four  of  the  principal  savages  of  the  tribe 
assemble   in  the   largest   and    most   beautiful 


*,    I 


,.ii-  i 


>» 


M 

4 

,7j>  , 

{ 

'k/t' 

i 

► 

tM'y  - 

I 

r^'\ 

; 

^i-H    ' 

* 

w: 

r"         ,          '     • 

t,'    * 


300 


O  R  E  C  ( )  N       MISSIONS. 


akkaro  or  hut,  to  dclihcrate  withTirawaat,  or  tho 
grrat  Doliborator  of  the  universe,  concerning 
the  sacrifice  of  the  victim.  According  to  their 
belief,  a  liuman  oU'eiing  is  rewarded  by  him 
with  an  almnd.ant  harvest,  he  fills  the  hunting- 
grounds  convenient  to  their  villages  with  im- 
mense herds  of  buffaloes,  deer  and  antelopes, 
thus  enabling  them  to  kill  their  prey  with  more 
facility  and  with  less  risk  of  coming  in  contact 
with  other  warlike  and  hostile  nations. 

The  oldest  savage  of  the  tribe  presides  at  the 
feast  given  on  the  occasion.  Ten  of  the  best 
singers  and  musicians,  each  with  his  peculiar 
instrument,  squat  in  the  middle  of  the  akkaio. 
Four  of  them  have  dried  calabashes  in  their 
hands,  from  which  the  seeds  have  been  extract- 
ed and  small  pebbles  placed  in  their  stead,  which 
being  shaken  by  the  muscular  arms  of  these 
gigantic  savages,  produce  a  sound  like  falling 
hail.  Four  others  beat  their  tekapiroutche — 
this  is  a  kind  of  drum  of  a  most  mournful  and 
deafening  sound  ;  it  is  made  from  the  trunk  of 
a  tree  and  is  about  three  feet  long  and  one-and- 
a-half  broad,  covered  at  both  ends  with  deer 
skin.  The  remaining  two  have  a  kind  of  flute 
made  of  reeds,  about  two  feet  long  and  one  inch 
in  diameter,  instruments,  such  as  were  used  by 


O  B  E  r.  O  N      MISSIONS. 


:m 


the  ancirnt  shrphcrds,  and  wiiich  jjivc  forth 
sounds  that  may  bo  hrard  at  tlic  distance  of 
ha.'f  a  mile.  They  fasten  to  each  instrument  a 
little  tewaara,  or  mfMlicine  bajr,  lilh^l  with  roots 
and  other  materials,  to  which,  in  their  supersti- 
tious rites,  they  attach  a  supernatural  power, 
that  renders  their  od'erinj?  more  a<?reeahle  to 
the  Author  of  life.  Four  sentinels,  ench  armed 
with  a  lance,  take  their  position  at  the  four  car- 
dinal points  of  the  lodji^e,  to  maintain  ordcM* 
among  the  spectators  and  to  prevent  the  en- 
trance of  the  women,  young  girls  and  children. 
The  guests  are  seated  upon  the  ground  or  upon 
mats  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  presiding  jug- 
gler, turning  around  from  time  to  time  in  the 
most  grotesque  and  ridiculous  dances.  Imagine 
thirty  swarthy  savages,  with  their  bodies  tat- 
tooed ;  their  f;ic(»s  besmeared  with  paint — 
white,  black,  made  of  soot  and  the  scrapings  of 
the  kettles,  yellov,  green  and  vermilion ;  and 
their  long  and  dishevelled  hair  clotted  with  mud 
or  clay.  Placing  themselves  in  a  circle,  they 
shriek,  they  leap,  and  give  to  their  bodies,  their 
arms,  their  legs,  and  their  heads  a  thousand 
hideous  contortions  ;  while  streams  of  perspira- 
tion, pouring  down  their  bodies,  render  the  hor- 
rors of  their  appearance  still  more  dreadful,  by 


ft' 


•i<  ''I- 


M>' 


•i'fi 


•1! 


i!      -I 

■  »-     < 


1'  ■  ■":, 


H 


^'1'        if   -V    . 


'^'mt 


im 


>       f,'      ► 


■'•»    .     '.ki 


;:!''-■' 


"  S'  .'': 


,H 


» 


362 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


the  confused  commingling  of  the  colors  with 
which  they  are  smeared — now  they  crowd  to- 
gether pell-mell,  then  separate, some  to  the  right, 
some  to  the  left,  one  upon  one  foot,  another  upon 
two,  while  others  go  on  all-fours  without  order, 
and  although  without  the  appearance  of  mea- 
sure, yet,  in  perfect  harmony  with  their  drums, 
their  calabashes  and  their  flutes. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  hut,  at  about  four  feet 
from  the  fire-place,  are  placed  four  large  buffalo 
heads,  dissected,  in  order  that  they  may  take  the 
augury.  The  presiding  juggler,  the  musicians 
and  the  dancers  have  their  heads  covered  with 
the  down  of  the  swan,  which  sticks  to  them  by 
means  of  honey,  with  which  they  smear  their 
hair — a  practice  common  to  all  the  tribes  of 
North  America  in  their  superstitious  rites.  The 
president  or  presiding  juggler  alone  is  painted 
with  red,  the  musicians,  one  half  red  find  the 
other  half  black,  while  all  the  others  are  daubed 
with  all  colors,  and  in  the  most  fantastic  figures. 

Each  time  that  the  music,  the  songs  and  the 
dances  are  performed,  the  spectators  observe  the 
most  profound  silence,  and  during  the  space  of 
thirty  minutes  that  the  extraordinary  charivari 
continues,  nothing  is  heard  but  the  chants,  the 
cries,  the  bowlings  and  the  music.    When  all 


OREGO  N      MIS  SIONS. 


363 


have  fij^ured  in  the  dance,  the  presiding  juggler 
gives  the  signal  to  stop,  crying  out  with  all  the 
force  of  his  lungs.     Immediately  all  cease,  each 
one  takes  his  place,  and  the  auditory  responds : 
"Neva  !  Neva!  Nova!"  it  is  well,  it  is  well,  it 
is  well !     The  dancers  then  fill  the  ancient  naw- 
ishkaro,  or  religious  calumet,  which  is  used  only 
upon  occasions  the  most  important.     They  offer 
it  to  the  president,  who,  striking  with  both   his 
hands  the  long  pipe,  adorned  with   pearls  and 
worked  with  different  figures,  goes  and  squats 
himself  down   by  the   lire-place.     One    of  the 
guards  places  a  coal  upon  the  mysterious  calu- 
met.    Having  lighted  it,  he   rises  and  gives  a 
puff  to   each   of  the    musicians  without   once 
slacking  his  hold  from  the  pipe.     He  then  turns 
towards  the  centre,  and  raising  his  eyes  towards 
heaven,  he  offers  the  calumet  to  the  Master  of 
life,  resting  for  a  moment  in   majestic   silence  : 
then,  offering  three  puffs  to  h(»aven,  he  speaks 
these   words:  "O,   Tirawaat !     Thou    who  be- 
holdest  all  things,  s'l^oke  with  thy  children,  and 
take  pity  on  us."     He  then  offers  the  calumet  to 
the  buffalo  heads,  their  great  manitous,  salutes 
each  of  them  with  two  pulfs,  and  i\wn  goes  to 
empty  the  bowl  of  the  pipe  in  a  wooden  dish, 
prepared  for  that  purpose,  that  the  sacred  ashes 


*.?••  -;  .■ 


'■:k: 


3t>4 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


may  be  aftt^rvvards  gathered  and  preserved  in  a 
deer-skin  pouch.* 

After  the  dance,  the  master  of  ceremonies 
serves  up  the  repast  to  the  guests,  seated  in  a 
circle.  The  food  consists  of  dried  buffalo  meat 
and  boiled  maize,  served  in  wooden  plates,  filled 
to  the  brim.  Each  one  is  bound  to  empty  his 
plate,  even  should  he  expose  himself  to  the 
danger  of  death  from  indigestion.  The  presi- 
dent offers  a  portion  of  the  meat  and  maize  to 
the  Great  Spirit,  and  places  it  accordingly  upon 
the  ground,  and  he  then  makes  a  similar  offer- 
ing to  one  of  the  buffalo  heads,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  party  to  the  feast.  At  length, 
while  each  one  occupies  himself  with  doing 
honor  to  his  plate,  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  band 
rises  up  and  announces  to  all  the  guesis  that 
the  Master  of  life  dances  with  him,  and  that  he 
accepts  the  calumet  and  the  feasting.  All  the 
band  reply:  "Neva!  N6va !  Neva!"  This  is 
the  first  condemnation. 


r'»  f 


m 


.t 


*  TluH  method  of  smokitifr  is  in  frroai  ropiito  amonjr  nil  tho 
Bavajjos  of  tho  WchI.  It  is  of  tho  samo  importunco  and  c(inally  uh 
binding  as  an  oath  amon^  civilized  nations.  If  two  savafrps, 
ready  to  kill  each  other,  can  ho  indnced  to  accept  the  cahinict, 
the  dispute  ceases,  and  the  hond  of  their  friendship  bccoines  stronger 
thon  over. 


served  in  a 

ceremonies 
seated  in  a 
lufTalo  meat 
plates,  filled 
>  empty  his 
iself  to   the 
The  presi- 
tid  maize  to 
dingly  upon 
imilar  ofTer- 
hich  is  sup- 
At  length, 
with  doing 
of  the  band 
guesis  that 
and  that  he 
Ing.     All  the 
. !  "     This  is 


OREGUN      MISSIONS. 


mr* 


Tlie  repast  ended,  they  again  dance,  nfter 
which  the  calumet  is  lighted  the  second  time; 
and,  as'  in  the  former  instance,  is  offered  to  the 
Master  of  life  and  to  the  butfalo  heads,  upon 
which,  the  lodge  again  resounds  with  the  triple 
crv,  "  Neva ! "  This  last  dance  condemns, 
without  appeal,  th(^  unfortunate  victim  whose 
immolation  is  invoked. 

After  all  their  grotesque  dances,  their  cries, 
tlieir  chants  and  their  vociferations,  the  savages, 
preceded  by  the  musicians,  go  out  of  the  lodge, 
to  present  the  sacred  calumet  to  th(^  bulfalo 
heads  placed  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges  of  the 
village,  each  of  which  is  ornamented  with  from 
two  to  eight  heads,  preserved  as  the  trophies  of 
their  skill  in  the  chase.  At  each  puff  the  multi- 
tude raise  a  furious  crv,  for  now  the  whole  \\\- 
Inge  joins  in  the  extraordinary  procession.  They 
stop  before  the  lodge  of  the  Sioux  girl,  and 
make  the  jiii-  n'Mumd  with  the  horrible  imj)re- 
cations  against  th(Mr  enemirs  and  against  the 
unfortunate  and  innocent  victim,  who  n  presents 


\  nmonjT   nil  tho 
CO  undc{iimlly  iih 
If  two   snvajrPH. 

4 

mome 
whose 

ipt  tho  caliiinct, 

snsM'f' 

■A                     ' 

jccomcs  stronger 

I       fe  icrili( 

th<'m    on    tlie    present    occasion.      Fr 


om 


tl 


us 


nt  she  is  guarded  by  two  old  satellites, 
office  it  is  to  Ix^giiih^  her  from  the  least 
on  that  she  is  the  viclini  for  tin*  coming 
jc  ;  and  whose  duty  it  also  is  to  entertain 


i'-    i 


'■      sl> 


•i-' 


/•■,■ 


'll) 


•',  W:- 


ki 


* , 

'  ^"'  ■'■ 

■\     ,  ■ . 

'^- 

i 

*  ^    * 

j 

ft'*' 

\    ,f  » 

*«■ 


\4  ' 

1'' 

J-, 

t 

J  • 

>. 

"f  ■•■  -, 

■"t 

t*   ': 

'-  "  .  - 

i 

\]  \ 

■'i 

•                          4 

.;> 

!  -  /  '■' 

-     'i; 

J. 

k                  1 

1 

^ 

J 

li  : 

366 


OREGON       MISISIUNS. 


her  upon  the  great  feast,  they  prepare  on  the 
occasion  in  her  honor,  and  that  she  may  be  well 
fed  in  order  to  appear  more  beautiful  and  fat, 
and  thereby  more  agreeable  to  the  Master  of 
life.  This  ends  the  first  day  of  the  ceremonies. 
On  the  second  day,  two  old  female  savages, 
with  dishevelled  hair,  their  faces  wrinkled  and 
daubed  with  black  and  red  paint,  their  naked 
arms  and  legs  tattooed,  barefooted,  and  with  no 
other  dress  than  a  deer-skin  petticoat,  extend- 
ing down  to  the  knee — in  a  word,  two  miser- 
able-looking beldams,  capable  of  striking  terror 
in  any  beholder, — issue  from  their  huts  with 
pipes  in  their  hands,  ornamented  with  the 
scalps  which  their  husbands  have  taken  from 
their  unhappy  enemies.  Passing  through  the 
village,  they  dance  around  each  akkaro,  so- 
lemnly announcing,  "  that  the  Sioux  girl  has 
been  given  to  the  Master  of  life  by  wise  and 
just  men,  that  the  offering  is  acceptable  to  him, 
and  that  each  one  should  prepare  to  celebrate 
the  day  with  festivity  and  mirth."  At  this 
announcement,  the  idlers  and  children  of  the 
village  move  about  and  shout  with  joy.  They 
then,  still  dancing,  re-conduct  the  two  old 
squaws  to  their  huts,  before  which  they  place 
their  pikes  as  trophies,  and  enter. — All   then 


s. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


S67 


re  pare  on  the 
B  may  be  well 
utiful  and  fat, 
the  Master  of 
le  ceremonies, 
male  savages, 
wrinkled  and 
I,  their  naked 
I,  and  with  no 
icoat,  extend- 
d,  two  miser- 
itriking  terror 
eir  huts  with 
ed  with  the 
e  taken  from 

through  the 
I  akkaro,  so- 
oux   girl    has 

by  wise  and 
table  to  him, 

to  celebrate 
Ih."     At   this 

Idren  of  the 
1  joy.  They 
the  two  old 
h  they  place 
r. — All   then 


returr  to  their  own  lodge,  to  partake  of  the 
feasts  of  their  relatives. 

About  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  third 
day,  all  the  young  women  and  girls  of  the  vil- 
lage, armed  with  hatchets,  repair  to  the  lodgf 
of  their  young  and  unhappy  captive,  and  invite 
her  to  go  into  the  forest  with  them  to  cut  wood. 
— The  simple-hearted,  confiding  child,  accepts 
their  malicious  invitation  with  eagerness  and 
joy,  happy  to  breathe  once  more  the  pure  air. — 
They  then  give  her  a  hatchet,  and  the  female 
troop  advance  towards  the  place  marked  out  in 
the  dance,  making  the  forest  resound  with 
shouts  of  joy.  Atipaat,  an  old  squaw  who  con- 
ducted them,  designates,  by  a  blow  of  the 
hatchet,  the  tree  which  is  to  be  cut  down. 
Each  then  gives  it  one  blow,  after  which  the 
victim  approaches  to  complete  the  work.  As 
soon  as  she  commences  what  seems  to  her  but 
pastime,  the  whole  crowd  of  young  furies  sur- 
round her,  howling  and  dancing.  Unconscious 
that  the  tree  is  to  supply  the  wood  for  her  own 
sacrifice,  the  poor  child  pursues  her  work  as  if 
a  great  honor  had  been  reserved  for  her. — 
Atipaat,  the  old  woman,  then  fastens  to  her  the 
a?hki*  with  which  to  draw  the  wood. 

*  The  ashki  is  a  cord,  made  of  horae-huir  or  of  the  hark  of 
the  elm,  which  they  prepare  by  boiling  it  in  cold   water.     It 


m 


«  t?  ■■.! 


'!,    i 


W 


7  ' 


I 


,1 


308 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


The  troop  then  lead  the  way  towards  the  vil- 
lage, dancing  as  they  pass  along,  but  giving  the 
hapless  victim  almost  no  assistance  in  dragging 
her  load.  An  innumerable  multitude  attend 
them  to  the  place  of  sacrifice,  and  receive  them 
with  loud  acclamations.  They  there  relieve 
her  of  her  burden  and  again  place  her  in  the 
hands  of  the  guards,  who,  with  voices  harsh 
and  quivering,  chant  the  great  deeds  of  their 
younger  days  and  re-conduct  her  to  her  lodge. 
In  the  meantime  the  whole  band  assist  to  ar- 
range the  wood  between  two  trees,  after  which 
they  immediately  disperse. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  before  sun- 
rise, a  savage  visits  all  the  lodges  to  announce 
to  each  family,  in  the  name  of  the  Master  of 
life,  that  they  must  furnish  two  billets  of  wood 
about  three  feet  long  for  the  sacrifice. 

Then  thirty  warriors  issue  from  their  lodges, 
decked  in  all  sorts  of  accoutrements ;  their 
heads  adorned  with  deer  and  buffalo  horns, 
with  the  tails  of  horses  and  the  plumes  of  the 

varies  from  twcnty-fivo  to  sixty  feet  in  lenjjth,  and,  althongh  it  is 
but  about  one  incb  in  tbickness,  it  is  strong  enongb  to  bind  the 
most  powerl'iil  man.  Tbis  tbey  adorn  witb  tbe  quills  of  tbo  por- 
cupine, and  witb  littlo  bells.  Tbo  bolls,  besides  for  tbe  sake  of 
ornament,  nro  intended  to  give  notice  in  case  tbe  victim  makes 
any  ettbrts  to  escape. 


vards  the  vil- 
>ut  crivin":  the 


2  in  dragging 
titude  attend 

receive  them 
here  relieve 
e  her  in  the 
voices  harsh 
eeds  of  their 

to  her  lodge. 

assist  to  ar- 
^,  after  which 

y,  before  sun- 
to  announce 

he  Master  of 

llets  of  wood 

ice. 

their  lodges, 
nents ;    their 

uflalo   horns, 
umes  of  the 

md,  although  it  is 
noiigh  to  bind  tho 
quills  of  tho  por- 
CH  for  the  flake  of 
the  victim  makes 


OREGON     MISSIONS. 


80!) 


eagle  and  heron,  interwoven  with  their  scalp- 
locks,  while  the  tails  of  wolves  and  wild  eats 
stream  from  various  parts  behind,  as  the  wings 
of  Mercury  are  represented,  with  pendants 
hanging  from  their  noses  and  ears,  so  elongated 
by  the  weight  of  the  ornaments  suspended  to 
them,  that  they  float  about  and  strike  against 
their  shoulders. — Glass  beads,  or  necklaces  of 
brass  or  steel  adorn  their  necks,  while  highly- 
ornamented  deer-skin  leggins  and  curiously- 
painted  buflJ'alo-skins,  negligently  thrown  over 
their  shouldeis,  complete  their  grotest^ue  hal)ili- 
ments.  Thus  accoutred  they  present  them- 
selves at  the  hut  of  their  captive,  who  is  al- 
ready adorned  with  the  most  beautiful  dress 
their  fancy  can  device,  or  the  materials  at  their 
command  produce.  Her  head-dress  is  composed 
of  the  feathers  of  the  eagle  and  swan,  and  de- 
scends behind  in  gracefully  waving  curves,  even 
to  the  ground.  Her  person  is  properly  painted 
with  red  and  black  lines.  A  frock  of  deer-skin 
descends  to  the  knee,  while  a  beautiful  pair  of 
leggins  extend  from  thence  to  the  ankle.  A  pair 
of  moccasins  garnished  with  porcupine  quills, 
pearl  and  glass  beads,  are  on  her  feet.  Pend- 
ants hang  from  her  ears  and  nos(*,  a  necklace 
ornaments  her  neck,  and  bracelets  her  arms ; 


^•.',:f  r-v 

J  .'■■■>•< 


■fW 


^ 


ill 


t 

'-..t  . 

II 


We 


370 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


nothing  was  spared  that  could  add  to  her 
beauty. 

Tranquillity  and  joy  distinguishes  her  as  she 
approaches  the  grand  feast,  which  she  has  been 
made  to  believe  her  kind  guardians  have  pre- 
pared to  honor  her.  At  the  first  cry  of  the  war- 
riors, the  poor  child  comes  out  of  the  hut  and 
walks  at  the  head  of  her  executioners,  who  fol- 
low in  single  file.  As  they  pass  along  they  en- 
ter into  all  the  huts,  where  the  most  profound 
silence  and  the  utmost  propriety  reign.  The 
Sioux  girl  walks  around  the  fire-place,  her  fol- 
lowers do  the  same,  and,  just  as  she  leaves  the 
lodge,  the  principal  squaw  gives  her  two  billets 
of  wood,  which  the  unconscious  victim  gives  in 
her  turn  to  each  of  the  savages.  In  this  man- 
ner, when  she  has  been  made  collect  all  the 
wood  to  serve  for  her  immolation,  she  takes  her 
place  in  the  rear  of  the  band,  joyous  and  con- 
tent that  she  has  had  the  happiness  to  contri- 
bute to  the  pleasure  of  her  executioners;  after 
which  they  again  restore  her  to  her  two  guards, 
to  be  presented  with  her  last  repast,  which  con- 
sists of  a  large  plate  of  maize. 

All  now  wait  in  anxious  expectation  to  wit- 
ness the  last  scene  of  the  bloody  drama.  The 
whole  village   is  in  commotion.     Everywhere 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


371 


add    to    her 

s  her  as  she 
she  has  been 
,ns  have  pre- 
•y  of  the  war- 
"  the  hut  and 
ners,  who  fol- 
long  they  en- 
nost  profound 
T  reign.     The 
place,  her  fol- 
she  leaves  the 
ler  two  billets 
ictim  gives  in 
In  this  man- 
jollect  all  the 
,  she  takes  her 
yous  and  con- 
less  to  contri- 
itioners;  after 
er  two  guards, 
ist,  which  con- 

ctation  to  wit- 
drama.     The 
Everywhere 


the  warriors,  old  and  young,  may  be  seen  pre- 
paring their  murderous  arrow,  as  upon  the  eve 
of  a  battle.  Some  practice  shooting  at  a  mark ; 
the  more  barbarous,  thirsting  for  the  blood  of 
their  enemies,  encourage  and  instruct  their  chil- 
dren in  the  use  of  the  bow  and  arrow,  and 
what  part  of  the  body  they  ought  to  strike. — 
The  young  women  and  girls  devote  themselves 
to  clearing  away  the  bushes  and  preparing  the 
place  of  sacrifice,  after  the  accomplishment  of 
which,  they  employ  themselves  during  the  rest 
of  that  day  and  night  in  polishing  their  neck- 
laces, pendants  and  bracelets,  and  all  the  other 
ornaments  in  which  they  wish  to  appear  at  the 
^Teat  feast. 

On  the  fifth  day,  an  aid-de-camp  of  Lechar- 
tetewarouchte,  or  the  chief  of  sacrifice,  ran 
through  the  village  to  announce,  in  the  name  of 
his  master,  the  necessity  of  preparing  the  red 
and  black  paint,  which  is  to  serve  for  the  grand 
ceremony.  It  is  vain  to  attempt  to  give  you, 
my  dear  sir,  an  adequate  description  of  this 
personage,  either  as  regards  his  costume,  his 
figure,  or  his  manner ;  it  is  every  thing  that  a 
savage  can  invent  of  the  fantastic,  the  ridicu- 
lous and  the  frightful,  united  in  one  person. 
The  collector  of  colors  himself  scarcely  yields 


372 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


(i  ( 


;■  < 


M 


to  his  comrade  in  monstrosity.  lie  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  one,  truly,  just  escaped  I'rom  the 
infernal  regions.  His  body  is  painted  black, 
which,  contrasted  with  the  whiteness  of  his 
teeth  and  of  his  huge  eyes,  and  with  his  hair 
besmeared  with  white  clay,  and  bristling  like 
the  mane  of  a  lion,  gives  him  an  aspect  terrible 
and  ferocious  in  the  extreme.  At  each  heel  is 
fastened  the  tail  of  a  wolf,  and  on  his  feet  a 
pair  of  moccasins  made  of  buffalo  skin,  with  the 
long  shaggy  hair  on  the  outside.  He  passes 
through  the  whole  village  with  a  measured 
step,  holding  a  wooden  plate  in  each  hand. 
He  enters  the  huts  successively,  and,  as  he  ap- 
proaches the  lire-place,  he  cries  aloud  :  "  The 
Master  of  life  sends  me  here."  Immediatelv,  a 
woman  comes  and  empties  into  one  of  his  plates 
either  some  red  or  some  black  paint,  which  she 
had  prepared.  Upon  the  reception  of  which, 
he  raises  his  eyes  to  heaven,  and  with  a  loud 
voice  says :  "  Regard  the  love  of  thy  children, 
O  Tirawaat !  However  poor,  all  that  they  pos- 
sess is  thine,  and  they  give  it  to  thee.  Grant 
us  an  abundant  harvest.  Fill  our  hunting- 
grounds  with  buffaloes,  deer,  stags  and  ante- 
lopes. Make  us  powerful  against  our  enemies, 
so  that  we  may  again  renew  this  great  sacri- 


s. 

le  has  the  ap- 
xped  i'rom  iho 
)ainted  black, 
iteness   of  his 

with  his  hair 
[  bristling  like 
aspect  terrible 
\.t  each  heel  is 

on  his  feet  a 
)  skin,  with  the 
e.  He  passes 
li  a  measured 
in  each  hand, 
and,  as  he  ap- 
5  aloud:  "The 
Immediately,  a 
ne  of  his  plates 
[lint,  which  she 
tion  of  which, 
,nd  with  a  loud 
)f  thy  children, 

that  they  pos- 

0  thee.     Grant 

our  hunting- 

ags  and  antc- 
st  our  enemies, 
lis  great  sacri- 


ORKGON     MIIIIONI. 


37» 


fice."  Each  one  replies  by  the  usual  exclama- 
tion: "Neva!  Neva!  Neva!" 

After  the  return  of  the  collector  of  colors, 
and  before  sunrise,  the  last  scene  commences. 
Men  and  women,  boys  and  girls,  daub  them- 
selves in  all  the  colors  and  forms  imaginable. 
They  deck  themselves  in  whatever  they  possess 
which  in  their  estimation  is  either  beautiful  or 
precious — pearls,  beads,  porcelain  collars,  the 
claws  of  the  white  bear,  ( this  is  in  their  view 
the  most  costly  and  valuable  decoration )  brace- 
lets and  pendants;  nothing  is  forgotten  on  this 
occasion.  They  ornament  their  hair  with  the 
feathers  of  the  heron,  and  of  the  gray  eagle, 
a  bird  superstitiously  venerated  by  them.  Thus 
equipped  for  their  sortie,  they  listen  attentively 
for  the  first  signal  to  the  sacrifice. 

While  these  preparations  are  in  progress,  the 

Tewaarouchte,  a  religious  band  of  distinguished 

warriors,  known  in  the  procession  by  the  down 

of  swans  upon  their  hair  or  upon  the  tops  of 

their  heads,  and  by  their  naked  bodies  painted 

in  red  and  black  lines,  follow  the  braves  of  the 

nation  armed  with  their  bows  and  arrows,  which 

are  sedulously  concealed   beneath  their  buffalo 

robes.     Thus   they  approach   the   lodge   where 

the  unconscious  victim  awaits,  as  she  thinks, 

17 


>  t 


:  t 


m 

■fl. 

.■.'H  ;:■. 

.ii ' 

^!:^= 

•     ■         <           '   :< 

r 

u  ■ 

,;. 

.■  •■ 

■'*:  . 

>^'. ,  ■ 

,1 

I'.. 


•!5'f 


'':V 

J?.  * 


1 


i     < 
.4  •' 


!( 


«  . 


374 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


the  happy  moment  for  the  festivities  given  in 
her  honor,  to  commence.     She  is  now  deliver- 
ed into  the  hands  of  her  executioners,  dressed 
in  the  beautiful  costume  of  the   previous  day, 
with  the  addition  of  a  cord  tied  to  each  ankle. 
The  poor  child  is  all  interest  and  in  a  kind  of 
impatience  to  participate   in  the  grand  festivi- 
ties.    She  smiles  as  she  looks  round  upon  the 
most  cruel  and  the  most  revengeful  enemies  of 
her  race.     Not  the  slightest  agitation,  fear,  or 
suspicion,  is  visible  in  her  manner.     She  walks 
with  joy  and  confidence  in  the  midst  of  her  exe- 
cutioners.    Arrived  at  the  fatal  spot,  a  fright- 
ful   presentiment     flashes    across    her    mind. 
There  is  no  one  of   her  own  sex  present.     In 
vain  do  her  eyes  wander  from  place  to  place, 
in  order  to  find  the  evidences  of  a  feast.      Why 
that  solitary  fire  ?    And  those  three  posts,  which 
she  herself  drew  from  the  forest,  and  which  she 
saw  fastened  between  two  trees,  and  those  swar- 
thy figures  of  the  warriors,  what  can  they  mean  ? 
All,  all  indicate  some  dreadful  project.     They 
order  her  to  mount  the  three  posts.    She  hesitates, 
she  trembles  as  an  innocent  lamb  prepared  for 
the  slaughter.   She  weeps  most  bitterly  and  with 
a  voice  the  most  touching,  such  as  must  have 
broken  any  other  hearts  than  those  of  these 


^l 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


375 


savajro  men,  she  implores  them  not  to  kill  her. 
With  a  jxTsujisive  tone  they  endeavor  to  con- 
vince her  that  their  intention  is  not  to  injure 
her,  but  that  the  ceremonies  in  which  she  par- 
ticipates arc  indispensable  before  the  grand 
least.  One  of  the  most  active  of  the  savages 
unrolls  the  cords  tied  to  her  wrists  and  assists 
her  to  mount  the  post.  He  passes  the  cords 
over  the  branches  of  the  two  trees,  between 
which  the  sacrifice  is  to  be  made. 

These  are  rendered  firm  by  the  powerful 
arms  of  the  other  savages,  and  her  feet  imme- 
diately fastened  to  the  topmost  of  the  three 
posts,  which  she  had  unconsciously  cut  and 
drawn  to  the  fatal  spot.  On  the  instant  all 
doubt  of  their  intentions  vanishes  from  her  mind. 
The  savages  no  longer  conceal  from  her  their 
frightful  project.  She  cries  aloud,  she  weeps, 
she  prays  ;  but  her  supplications,  her  tears  and 
her  prayers  are  alike  drowned  in  the  melee, 
and  cry  of  their  horrible  imprecations  against 
her  nation. 

Upon  her  innocent  and  dtn'oted  head  they 
concentrate  the  full  measure  of  their  vengeance, 
of  all  the  cruelties,  of  all  the  crimes,  of  all  the 
injustice  and  cruelty  of  the  Sioux,  which  may 
have  taken  place  in  their  most  cruel  and  pro- 


nt 


F^^ 


370 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


1^ 


5   ! 


Pt 


II* 


'W; 


»  i 


tracted  wars,  and  which  from  time  immemorial 
had  been  transmitted  from  father  to  son,  as  a 
precious  heritage  of  vengeance  and  resentment. 
In  a  manner  the  most  furious  and  most  triumph- 
ant they  exult  with  leaping  and  howling,  like 
wild   beasts,    around    their    trembling    victim. 
They  then  despoil  her  of  all  her  ornaments  and 
of  her  dress,  when  the  chief  of  the  sacrifice  ap- 
proaches and  paints  one-half  of  her  body  black 
and  the  other  half  red,  the  colours  of  their  vic- 
tims.    He  then  scorches  her  armpits  and  sides 
with  a  pine-knot  torch.     After  these  preparatory 
rites,  he  gives  the  signal  to  the  whole  tribe,  who 
make  the  air  resound  with  the  terrible  war-cry 
of  the  Sassaskwi.     At  this  piercing  cry,  which 
freezes  the  heart  with  terror,  which  paralyzes 
the  timid  and  rouses  the  ardor  of  the  brave, 
which  confounds  the  buffalo  in  his  course,  and 
fills  the  bear  with  such  fear  as  to  take  from  him 
all  the  power  of  resisting  or  fleeing  from  his 
enemies,  the  savages,  impatient   and  greedy  for 
blood,  issue  from  their  dark  lodges.     Like  a  ter- 
riffic  hurricane  they  rush  headlong  to  the  fatal 
spot.     Their  cries,  mingled  with   the    noise   of 
their  feet,  resemble  the  roar  of  thundt^r,  increas- 
ing as  the  storm   approaches.     As  a  swarm  of 
bees  surround  their  queen,  these  Pawnee  savages 


jN. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


377 


i. 

i  immemorial 
to  son,  as  a 
(1  resentment, 
most  triumph- 
howling,  like 
bling  victim, 
rnaments  and 
?  sacrifice  ap- 
er  body  black 
i  of  their  vic- 
)its  and  sides 
le  preparatory 
ole  tribe,  who 
rrible  war-cry 
ng  cry,  which 
ich  paralyzes 
3f  the  brave, 
is  course,  and 
take  from  him 
eing  from  his 
md  greedy  for 
}.  Like  a  ter- 
^  to  the  fatal 
the  noise  of 
mder,  increas- 
s  a  swarm  of 
iwnee  savages 


encompass  the  Sioux  child — their  trembling 
victim.  In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  their  bows 
are  bent  and  their  arrows  adjusted  to  the  cords. 
The  arrow  of  Lecharitetewarouchte,  or  chief  of 
the  sacrifice,  is  the  only  one  which  is  barbed 
with  iron.  With  this,  it  is  his  province  to  pierce 
the  heart  of  the  innocent  Dakotha.  A  profound 
silence  reigns  for  an  instant  among  the  fero- 
cious band.  No  sound  breaks  the  awful  still- 
ness save  the  sobs  and  piteous  moans  of  the 
victim,  who  hangs  trembling  in  the  air,  while 
the  chief  of  the  sacrifice  makes  a  last  ofTering 
of  her  to  the  Master  of  the  universe.  At  that 
moment  he  transfixes  her  through  the  heart — 
upon  the  instant  a  thousand  murderous  arrows 
quiver  in  the  body  of  the  poor  child.  Her 
whole  body  is  one  shapeless  mass,  riddled  with 
arrows  as  numerous  as  are  the  quills  upon  the 
back  of  the  porcupine. 

While  the  howling  and  the  dancing  continue, 
the  great  chief  of  the  nation,  mounting  the  three 
posts  in  triumph,  plucks  the  arrows  from  the  dead 
body  and  casts  them  into  the  fire.  The  iron- 
barbed  arrow  being  the  only  one  preserved  for 
future  sacrifices.  He  then  squeezes  the  blood 
from  the  mangled  flesh,  upon  the  maize  and 
other  seeds,  which  stand  around  in  baskets  readv 


378 


OREG  ON      MISSIONS. 


'<\mi-^.  :\ 


^J?V»,::/    ■,ii 


to  be  planted  ;  and  then,  as  the  last  act  of  this 
cruel  and  bloody  sacrifice,  he  plucks  the  still 
palpitating  heart  from  the  body,  and,  heaping 

the  fiercest  imprecations  upon  the  enemies  of  his 
race,  devours  it  amidst  the  shouts  and  screams 
of  his  people.  The  rite  is  finished.  The 
haughty  and  satisfied  savages  move  away  from 
the  scene  of  their  awful  tragedy  ;  they  pass  the 
remainder  of  the  day  in  feasts  and  merriment. 
The  murdered  and  deformed  body  hangs  where 
it  was  immolated,  a  prey  to  wolves  and  carnivo- 
rous birds.  I  will  end  this  painful  tragedy,  by 
giving  you  an  extract  of  a  former  letter. 

"  Such  horrid  cruelties  could  not  but  bring 
down  the  wrath  of  Heaven  upon  their  nation. 
As  soon  as  the  report  of  the  sacrifice  reached  the 
Sioux,  they  burned  with  ihe  desire  to  avenge 
their  honor,  and  bound  themselves  by  oaths  that 
they  would  not  rest  until  they  had  killed  as 
mjiny  Pawnees  as  their  innocent  victim  liad 
bones  or  joints  in  her  body.  More  than  a  hun- 
dred Pawnees  have  at  length  fallen  under  their 
tomahawks,  and  their  oaths  have  since  been 
still  more  amply  fulfilled  in  the  massacre  of 
their  wives  and  children. 

"  In  view  of  so  much  cruelty,  who  could  mis- 
take the  agency  of  the  arch  enemy  of  mankind, 


OREGON       MISSIONS, 


379 


5t  act  of  this 
icks  the  still 
md,  heapinj^ 
nemies  of  his 
and  screams 
ished.  The 
e  away  from 
hey  pass  the 
1  merriment, 
hangs  where 
and  carnivo- 
[  tragedy,  by 
etter. 

)t  l)ut  bring 
^heir  nation. 
!  reached  the 
3  to  avenge 
)y  oaths  that 
id   killed  as 

victim  had 
than  a  hun- 
i  under  their 

since  been 
nassacrc  of 


and  who  would  refuse  to  exert  himself  to  bring 
these  benighted  nations  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
One  only  true  Mediator  between  God  and  man, 
and  of  the  only  true  sacrifice  without  which  it  is 
impossible  to  appease  the  Divine  justice  ?  " 
With  sentiments  of  respect  and  esteem, 
I  remain,  my  dear  sir,  yours,  <fec. 

PETER  J.  DE  SMET,  S.  J. 


3  could  mis- 
of  mankind, 


I' 


iii 


380 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


Mr  ^  ^'^ 


i'i 


!il 


J-- 


.t 


i 


•i-.,      !' 


t,.    ..  ;• 


No.  XXVII. 


A.   M.   D.   G 


EXTRACT    FROM    THE   MISSIONARY  S   JOURNAL. 


To-day,  17th  August,  we  pitched  our  tents  upon 
the  borders  of  a  winding  stream,  in  the  heart  of 
a  wild,  mountainous  country,  whose  deep  ra- 
vines and  gloomy  caverns  are  well  suited  for 
the  dens  of  wild  animals.  Great  as  our  ex- 
pectations were  of  finding  here  abundance  of 
game,  they  were  not  deceived.  In  less  than  an 
hour  our  hunters  killed  as  many  as  twelve 
bears.  During  the  night,  an  event  of  a  far  more 
serious  nature  occurred.  The  sudden  firing  of 
a  gun  roused  us  from  slumber.  Every  warrior 
was  on  the  alert ;  that  shot  could  have  proceed- 
ed from  no  hand  save  that  of  a  "  Black-Foot !  " 
We  looked  at  one  another  in  silent  anticipation. 
Who,  then,  had  been  the  sufferer  ?  The  painful 
question    was   quickly    answered.     It   was  the 


t. 


JOURNAL. 


iir  tents  upon 
I  the  heart  of 
ose  deep  ra- 
il! suited  for 
as  our  ex- 
bundanee  of 
less  than  an 
T   as   twelve 
)f  a  far  more 
len  firing  of 
vevy  warrior 
ive  proceed- 
lack-Foot ! " 
mticipation. 
The  painful 
It    was  fhr 


'I 


1:k 


■  i 

'    i 

'i^ 


i 


^. 


-.] 


s 


■v. 


§ 


>r 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


381 


^ 


-^.1 


('--i>^ 
li>^^- 


-i' 


0-  A 


•/. 


■N 


I 
s 


^ 


§ 


poor  widow  Camilla,  one  of  the  Sinpoil  tribe. 
The  ball  had  passed  through  her  throat,  and  she 
expired  without  a  groan  !  Happily,  her  soul  was 
ripe  for  Heaven.  From  the  period  of  her  first 
communion,  she  had  never  passed  a  Sunday 
without  approaching  the  holy  table,  nor  was  her 
bapt  smrl  robe  sullied  by  the  slightest  stain. 
The  funeral  obsequies  were  performed  on  the 
banks  of  Yellow-Rock  River,  because  that  spot 
was  better  suited  than  any  other  to  conceal  her 
sepulchre  from  the  avaricious  Black-Foot  assas- 
sin. All  things  work  together  for  good  to  them 
that  love  God ;  this  death,  terrible,  indeed,  in 
the  sight  of  men,  but  precious  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Lord,  became  the  source  of  a  good  work.  The 
murdered  woman  left  two  daughters,  both  very 
young  ;  had  her  life  been  spared,  she  would  not, 
perhaps,  have  been  able  to  shield  their  inno- 
cence from  the  dangers  to  which  it  would  have 
been  exposed  ;  but,  now,  they  were  immediately 
adopted  by  Ambrose,  chief  of  the  Flat-Heads, 
and  father  of  a  numerous  family ;  in  his  noble 
heart,  charity,  piety,  and  confidence  in  God,  go 
hand-in-hand  with  his  courage. 

At  the  distance  of  a  few  gun-shots  from  Yel- 
low-Rock, the  huti'aloes  made  their  appearance. 

17* 


2= 


*rj 


9  t\ 


»'  .'    'V- 


if'    , 


y 


^* 


V;  •  >./  • 

• 

1  ■'  ■  |/' 

•_ 

(-.:  *■,'■,•    ' 

%  " 

V^      V-'  ' 

4 


'» ,  .* 


.>.     ' 


i    *    ■; 


382 


OREGON     MIS  SIGNS. 


One  of  them  plunged  into  the  river  to  avoid 
the  death  which  threatened  him,  swam  rapidly 
down  the  current,  then  suddenly  tacked  about 
to  escape  his  pursuers ;  and,  finally,  exhausted 
by  his  efforts,  and  unable  longer  to  contend  with 
his  fate,  came  out  of  the  river,  and  stretched 
himself  upon  the  turf  at  the  entrance  of  our 
camp,  where  his  presence  caused  no  other  mis- 
chief than  that  of  exciting  the  mirth  of  the 
women  and  children. 

Farther  on,  two  bears  were  seen  making 
their  way  through  the  bushes.  The  young 
people,  who  were  the  first  to  perceive  them, 
announced  their  discovery  by  loud  yells.  Im- 
mediately, a  Black-Foot,  a  friend  of  the  Flat- 
Heads,  sprang  forward  with  the  intention  of 
giving  the  first  blow  to  the  common  enemy ; 
but  the  sagacious  animal,  anticipating  his  de- 
sign, rushed  from  his  lair,  and  fastened  his 
enormous  claws  on  the  uplifted  arm  of  the 
young  Indian,  whose  situation  would  have  been 
desperate,  had  not  .i  Flat-Head  come  to  his 
assistance.  A  few  days  after,  another  converted 
Black-Foot,  finding  himself  in  the  same  circum- 
stances, and  wishing  to  show  that  he  knew 
better  than  his  comrade  how  to  kill  bears,  went 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


383 


er  to  avoid 
am  rapidly 
eked  about 
exhausted 
intend  with 
d  stretched 
nee  of  our 
>  other  mis- 
rth   of  the 

3n   making 
rhe   young 
3ive   them, 
yells.     Im- 
r  the  Flat- 
itention  of 
)n  enemy ; 
ing  his  de- 
stened   his 
'm   of  the 
have  been 
Tie   to   his 
•  converted 
le  circum- 
he    knew 
3ars,  went 


about  it  in  the  sam  manner,  and  shared  the 
sar  e  fate ;  a  punishment  which  his  temerity 
richly  deserved. 

Whilst  we  were  encamped  in  this  place, 
several  chiefs  of  the  Corbeaux  tribe  came  to 
visit  the  Flat-Heads,  accompanied  by  the  flower 
of  their  young  warriors.  They  spoke  with  en- 
thusiasm of  the  visit  their  nation  had  received 
from  a  Black-gown  in  1842,  and  expressed  great 
desire  for  the  time  to  come  when  they,  like  the 
Flat-Heads,  would  enjoy  the  privilege  of  having 
Black-gowns  always  with  them,  to  instruct 
them  in  heavenly  things.  They  still  observe 
the  superstitious  practices  of  the  calumet.  To 
render  the  odor  of  the  pacific  incense  agreeable 
to  their  gods,  it  is  necessary  that  the  tobacco 
and  the  herb  (skwiltz),  the  usual  ingredients, 
should  be  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of 
buffalo's  dung,  and  that  the  great  pipe,  after 
having  gone  round  the  lodge,  should  re-com- 
mence the  circuit  as  soon  as  it  arrives  at  the 
opening,  without  which  ceremony  they  imagine 
it  would  be  useless  to  smoke  with  their  brethren, 
or  incense,  as  they  do,  the  heavens,  earth,  four 
cardinal  points,  and  medals  of  Washington  and 
Jackson. 

Nothing  but  misfortunes  could  await  them. 


,'^-i 
M 


1  A.f 


.,4-. 
m 


:'  * ;  |^  * 


:1  • 


384 


OREGON       MIHSIONSI. 


Whilst  they  remained  with  us,  we  buried  a 
Pend-d'Oreille  Indian,  who  had  died  shortly 
after  baptism,  strengthened  by  all  the  sacra- 
ments of  the  church.  This  ceremony,  which  was 
performed  with  more  than  ordinary  pomp  in 
honor  of  the  visitors,  was  concluded  by  the 
solemn  erection  of  the  cross  on  the  grave  of 
the  deceased.  May  the  remembrance  of  these 
last  duties  paid  to  a  departed  child  of  the  church, 
increase  in  the  hearts  of  the  Corbeaux  the 
desire  of  knowing  Him,  without  the  knowledge 
of  whom  there  is  no  salvation.  The  following 
day  they  returned  to  their  own  camp.  \^/ 

The  Pierced-Noses  were  now  on  their  way  id 
their  own  country ;  the  Flat-Heads,  on  the  con- 
trary, were  still  in  pursuit  of  game  ;  for,  al- 
though the  season  was  far  advanced,  they  had 
not  yet  commenced  to  lay  in  their  winter  pro- 
visions. Early  the  following  morning,  we 
struck  our  tents  and  resumed  our  march.  We 
had  not  proceeded  far,  when  our  attention  was 
attracted  by  a  herd  of  buffaloes  quietly  feeding 
in  the  beautiful  valley  at  our  feet.  They  were 
so  numerous,  that  each  of  the  hunters  killed 
several.  The  slaughter  of  these  animals  was 
but  the  preluJe  of  that  which  was  to  take  place 
on  the  following  days.    Our  hunters  brought  in 


OREGON       MIS.IOM^ 


3N.-J 


e  buried  a 
iied  shortly 
the  sacra- 
,  which  was 
ry  pomp  in 
ded  by  the 
le  grave  of 
Qce  of  these 
f  the  church, 
►rbeaux  the 
;  knowledge 
le  following 
).  \  ^ 

;heir  way  t6 
on  the  con- 
ne  ;  for,  al- 
ed,  they  had 
winter  pro- 
orning,  we 
larch.  We 
tention  was 
etly  feeding 
They  were 
nters  killed 
nimals  was 
►  take  place 
i  brought  in 


game  in  abundance.  On  one  (K'r  sion,  t^  ^y  re- 
turned laden  with  the  spoils  of  A\  fat  cows. 
We  encamped  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Black- 
Foot  territory,  yet  the  howling  of  wolves  and 
tears,  calling  one  another  to  their  nocturnal 
repast,  was  the  only  sound  that  disturbed  our 
repose.  The  hunting  season  is  a  time  of  rest 
for  the  missionary,  of  intimate  union  with  his 
God,  of  renovation  for  his  soul !  It  was  in  this 
spirit  I  received,  wit'i  humble  gratitude,  the 
short  but  severe  illness  with  which  I  was  visited 
at  this  period.  I  regarded  it,  likewise,  as  sent 
me  in  punishment  for  the  too  natural  pleasure  I 
felt  in  contemplating  the  strange  and  varied 
scenes  by  which  I  was  surrounded.  During  our 
encampment  in  this  spot,  I  had  the  consolation 
of  baptizing  ten  adults. 

An  unexpected  fall  of  snow  warned  us  that 
it  was  time  to  think  of  our  return.  The  chief 
accordingly  gave  orders  for  all  to  be  in  readi- 
ness to  set  out  the  following  day.  The  weather 
was  clear,  but  intensely  cold  ;  and,  suffering  as 
I  still  was,  from  the  effects  of  my  recent  illness, 
I  had  great  difHculty  in  supporting  its  severity. 
We  were,  however,  soon  cheered  by  milder 
days,  and  warmer  sunshine.  Our  young  hunters 
were,  once  more,  all  animation.     The  pleasures 


tv.  *J. 


'^^ 


'J 


.,    I- 


m 


386 


O  R  EG  ON       MISSIONS. 


of  the  chase  were  resumed  as  far  as  the  good 
order  necessary  for  the  homeward  march  would 
permit.  Even  the  children  caught  the  general 
spirit,  and  bounded  off  in  pursuit  of  some  smaller 
animal,  which  the  elated  winner  of  the  race 
never  failed  to  bring  back  on  his  shoulder. 

We  were  now  entering  the  defile  where  we 
had  before  met  with  such  brilliant  success.  At 
almost  every  step  we  fell  in  with  some  straggler. 
At  one  time,  an  old  decrepit  buffalo  ;  at  another, 
a  fat  cow,  and  sometimes  a  playful  calf,  whose 
dam  had  already  fallen  a  victim.  These  ani- 
mals were  an  easy  prey,  and  their  capture  was 
a  new  source  of  sport  for  the  boys. 

On  the  28th  I  retired  to  the  summit  of  a 
neighboring  mountain,  to  read  the  vespers  of 
St.  Michael.  The  atmosphere  was  unusually 
serene ;  not  a  sound  disturbed  the  silence  of 
nature.  I  gazed  on  the  quiet  beauty  of  the 
scene,  hushed,  as  it  were,  in  the  presence  of 
God,  and  my  heart  dilated  at  the  thought  of  the 
thousands  of  unconverted  Indians,  buried  in  the 
darkness  of  idolatry.  Full  of  these  thoughts,  I 
raised  my  eyes,  and,  excited  as  my  imagination 
was,  it  seemed  to  me  that  I  beheld  the  arch- 
angel, Michael,  standing  on  the  opposite  moun- 
tain, exclaiming,  "  Deluded  nations !     Who  is 


OREGON       MISSIONS 


387 


as  the  good 
narch  would 
the  general 
ome  smaller 
of  the  race 
oulder. 
e  where  we 
iuccess.     At 
le  straggler, 
at  another, 
calf,  whose 
These  ani- 
!apture  was 

immit  of  a 
vespers  of 
5  unusually 
silence   of 
luty  of  the 
)resence  of 
ught  of  the 
iried  in  the 
thoughts,  I 
nagination 
the  arch- 
•site  moun- 
!     Who  is 


like  unto  God  ? "  The  voice  resounded  throus^h 
the  forests — it  was  echoed  by  the  deep  ravines. 
I  fancied  it  was  heard  and  understood  by  the  wild 
children  of  the  woods  ;  their  responding  shouts 
rung  in  my  ear.  Yielding  to  the  enthusiasm 
of  my  feelings,  I  hastily  quitted  my  elevated 
position,  and  erected  a  wooden  cross  on  the 
summit  of  a  neighboring  eminence.  Some  days 
after,  a  hunter  discovered,  near  the  half-con- 
sumed embers  of  an  extinguished  fire,  a  similar 
cross,  to  which  a  banner  was  attached.  My 
first  thought  was,  that  it  had  been  planted  there 
by  some  Catholic,  who  had  lost  his  way  in  the 
forest,  and  been  devoured  by  the  wolves.  The 
Flat-Heads,  however,  well  acquainted  with  the 
practices  of  their  ancient  foes,  the  Black-Feet, 
informed  me  that  it  was  a  custom  among  them 
to  erect  these  crosses  to  the  moon,  in  order  to 
render  her  favorable  to  the  robbery  or  chase,  in 
which  they  were  about  to  engage.  This  infor- 
mation dispelled  the  pleasing  fancies  in  which  I 
had  indulged ;  and  painfully  reminded  me  that 
the  God-Saviour  is  yet  far  from  being  adored  in 
these  wild  abodes.  May  we  not  hope  that  the 
time  will  yet  come,  when  the  banner  of  the  true 
cross  will  wave  triumphant  o'er  this  benighted 
land  ! 


it.- 


X   V 


f 


M 


I 


IMfr 


II 


388 


UREOON      MlSmONH. 


The  obstacles  which  have  hitherto  prevented 
the  missionaries  from  penetrating  into  the  Black- 
Feet  territory  are  now  beginning  to  disappear, 
and  there  is  every  prospect  of  our  soon  being 
able  to  commence  the  glorious  work  of  their 
conversion. 

The  next  day  we  entered  a  mountain  pass, 
where  the  foot  of  man  had  seldom  trodden,  as 
was  proved  by  the  fact,  that  fifteen  beavers 
were  taken  in  one  night  by  three  hunters.  Af- 
ter following  for  some  time  the  circuitous  wind- 
ings of  the  ravine,  we  came  to  an  ascent  so 
slippery,  that  at  every  instant  I  was  in  anticipa- 
tion of  some  sad  catastrophe.  Presently  a 
sumpter-horse  missed  his  footing  and  fell,  roll- 
ing down  the  precipice.  Who,  that  had  seen 
him  fall  from  rock  to  rock,  would  ever  have 
thought,  that  in  a  few  minutes  he  would  be 
journeying  on,  laden  as  before  !  Without  utter- 
ing a  single  word,  the  guide  made  her  way 
through  the  deep  snow  to  the  spot  where  the 
poor  animal  lay,  unloaded  him,  raised  him  from 
the  ground,  replaced  his  burden,  and  brought 
him  back  to  the  rear  of  the  troop. 

We  continued  our  route  until  sunset,  along 
the  mountain's  summit ;  at  length,  after  c  forced 
march  of  ten  hours,  we  pitched  our  tents  on  a 


H. 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


38i) 


jrto  prevented 
nto  the  Black- 
to  disappear, 
nr  soon  being 
work  of  their 


lountain  pass, 
m  trodden,  as 
^teen   beavers 
hunters.     Af- 
cuitous  wind- 
an  ascent  so 
IS  in  anticipa- 
Presently    a 
and  fell,  roll- 
hat   had  seen 
lid  ever  have 
he  w^ould  be 
iVithout  utter- 
lade  her  way 
►ot  where  the 
ised  him  from 
and   brought 

sunset,  along 

after  a  forced 

ar  tents  on  a 


beautiful  island,  where  we  enjoyed  both  securi- 
ty and  repose.  Surrounded  by  the  waters  of 
the  Missouri,  and  abounding  in  rich  pastures, 
this  charming  spot  seems,  as  it  were,  destined 
by  nature  as  a  place  of  rest  for  the  wearied 
traveller. 

It  would  have  been  impossible  to  contemplate 
without  admiring  the  loveliness  of  the  land- 
scape. From  the  southern  coast  of  the  river 
arose  a  ridge  of  mountain  >,  whose  varied  colors 
of  blue,  red,  green,  and  yellow,  gave  them  a 
striking  appearanc  »  ;  the  effect  of  which  was 
heightened  by  a  small  stream,  leaping  from 
rock  to  rock,  in  the  form  of  a  cascade,  cooling 
the  parched  ground,  insinuating  itself  into  the 
crevices  of  the  rocks,  and  giving  birth  to  an  in- 
finite variety  of  creeping  plants,  and  flowering 
shrubs. — The  island  tself  is  beautiful  beyond 
description.  The  scenery  is  diversifled  by 
groups  of  t  e  majestic  button-ball,  which,  in  this 
country,  is  the  giant  of  the  vegetable  kingdom. 
It  was  under  the  shades  of  one  of  these  noble  trees 
that  our  hunters  prepared  o  c«  h'brate  the  feast 
of  the  Maternity.  The  sun's  last  rays  had  long 
disappeared  beneath  the  horizon,  err  all  was 
n*a(ly  for  \\iv  evt'iiing  prayer.  After  which,  not- 
withstanding the   fatiguts  of  the  day,   a  largo 


5f 


4 


H     ', 


390 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


;^   ''I' 


fire  was  kindled  before  my  tent,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  night  consecrated  by  these  fervent 
children  of  the  woods,  to  the  reconciliation  of 
their  souls  with  God.  The  following  day  the 
Holy  Sacrifice  was  celebrated  with  as  much 
solemnity  as  the  circumstances  would  permit. 
Of  the  ninety  persons  who  then  approached  the 
table  of  the  Lord,  there  was  not  one,  who,  since 
the  departure  from  St.  Mary's,  had  not  commu- 
nicated every  month.  Several  had  enjoyed  that 
happiness  each  week.  During  the  evening  of- 
fice nothing  particular  occurred.  The  eve  of 
my  departure  the  mothers  brought  their  young 
children  to  receive  my  blessing  ;  and  the  chiefs 
erected  a  cross  in  token  of  their  gratitude  for 
the  favors  received  during  the  hunting  season. 
To  this  latter  circumstance  the  island  is  indebt- 
ed for  the  beautiful  name  of  St.  Croix. 

The  following  day  I  bade  farewell  to  my  dear 
neophytes  ;  and,  after  joining  in  prayer  with 
them  for  the  last  time,  I  set  out  on  my  return  to 
St.  Mary's. 

N.  POINT,  S.  J. 


OREGON       MISSIONS 


391 


I  the  greater 
hese  fervent 
nciliation  of 
ing  day  the 
th  as  much 
ould  permit. 
)roached  the 
3,  who,  since 
not  commu- 
enjoyed  that 
evening  of- 
The  eve  of 
their  young 
id  the  chiefs 
gratitude  for 
iting  season, 
nd  is  indebt- 
3ix. 

1  to  my  dear 
prayer  with 
my  return  to 

NT,  S.  J. 


No.  XXVIIT. 

"  Henceforward  the  Prayer  op  the  Flat-Heads 

shall  be  ours." 


BY    REV.    P.    N.    POINT. 


We  shall  see  what  gave  occasion  to  these  re- 
markable words  uttered  by  thirty-seven  Black- 
Feet,  who  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Flat- 
Heads. 

It  is  rare,  at  present,  to  find  any  Black-Feet, 
even  among  the  most  vicious  tribes,  who  are 
not  convinced  that  the  Black-gowns  desire  their 
happiness. 

The  following  observations  clearly  prove  my 
proposition:  1,  the  kind  reception  they  gave 
the  Black  Robe,  who  was  taken  by  sixty  of 
their  warriors  :  2,  the  attention  with  which  they 
listened  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Thibault,  a  Canadian 
priest,  who  fell  in  with  a  large  company  of  them 
at  Fort  Augusta,  on  the  River  Sascatshawin : 
3,  sending  back  to  St.  Mary's,  a  horse  belong- 
ing to  a  Flat-Head  missionary  ;  a  circumstance 


1^ 


F-*/ 


,^>      .' 


392 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


I*  - 


f 


.% 


'J. 


f  iN' 


I 


if    •■ 


H 


;J-. 


"«  'i: 


,,'1  •    ' 


i 


4-    ^- 


m 


In 


^j 


5, 'I 


i 


^•; 


hitherto  unheard  of,  in  the  relations  of  the 
Black-Fee^  with  the  Flat-Heads;  4,  the  confi- 
dence which  several  have  manifested  in  the 
missionaries,  on  many  remarkable  occasions ; 
5,  the  smoking  of  the  calumet  in  the  plain  of 
the  Great  Valley,  with  a  small  number  of  Flat- 
Heads  whom  they  might  have  killed  without 
difficulty ;  6,  the  amicable  visits  they  have 
paid  the  Flat-Heads  by  the  persuasion  of  the 
hoary  chief  IVicholas,  (baptized,)  and  the 
habitual  residence  of  ^  everal  of  the  tribe  at  the 
village  of  St.  Mary's  ;  7,  the  plunder  of  horses 
is  incomparably  more  rare  than  during  the  pre- 
ceding years ;  8,  the  four  years'  cessation  of 
any  serious  attack;  though,  formerly,  not  a 
hunting  party  passed  witho  ir,  a  sanguinary 
battle  with  the  Flat-Heads.  In  proof  of  this, 
remember  the  sixty-five  battles  of  old  Paulin. 
If  we  add  to  all  this,  the  providential  and  ad- 
mirable circumstance  which  occurred  during 
the  chase,  and  wliich  we  purpose  relating,  sure- 
ly, it  may  be  permitted  to  form  the  brightest 
prospects  relative  to  t'le  religious  conquest  of 
this  numerous  tribe ;  and  I  sincerely  hope  that 
an  occurrence,  which  lately  took  place  at  St. 
Mary's,  will  contribute  much  to  realize  my 
desires. 


I 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


S9ii 


itions   of  the 
4,  the   confi- 
fcvsted   in  the 
le    occasions ; 
the  plain  of 
Tiber  ofFIat- 
dlled  without 
s   they    have 
uasion  of  the 
d,)     and    the 
e  tribe  at  the 
der  of  horses 
iring  the  pre- 
cessation  of 
merly,   not   a 
I   sanguinary 
proof  of  this, 
f  old  Paul  in. 
;ntial  and  ad- 
urred   during 
elating,  sure- 
the  brightest 
s  conquest  of 
»ly  hope   that 
place  at   St. 
•    realize   mv 


The  2d  or  3d  February,  during  the  night,  the 
dogs  barked — a  pistol-shot  was  heard — a  mourn- 
ful silence  ensues  !  A  thief,  doubtless,  had  been 
wounded.  The  following  morning,  marks  of 
blood  could  be  traced  as  far  as  the  river,  which 
led  to  the  conclusion  that  the  robber  had  perish- 
ed in  the  waves ;  but,  three  days  since,  George 
Sapime,  whilst  duck-shoo'ing,  fcund  the  suffer- 
ing being  among  some  bushes,  so  exhausted  by 
loss  of  blood  that  he  could  scarcely  stand. 
George  might  easily  have  despatched  him  on  the 
spot,  according  to  the  savage  custom;  but  he 
thought  it  better  to  return  to  the  village  and 
take  counsel  as  to  what  seemed  most  expedient 
to  be  done  with  the  hapless  desperado.  At  this 
intelligence,  numbers  of  Indians  mount  their 
horses  and  gallop  off*,  full  armed,  to  the  spot  in- 
dicated. Whilst  this  was  being  transacted,  the 
incident  was  related  to  Father  Mengarini.  Pel- 
chimo  and  Ambrose,  two  really  brave  Flat- 
Heads,  who  communicated  the  intelligence, 
thought  it  base  to  kill  a  dying  man.  The  zeal- 
ous missionary  conceived  an  ardent  desire  to 
secure  the  salvation  of  the  culprit,  by  pouring 
on  his  soul  the  saving  waters  of  regeneration. 
Pelchimo,  seconding  the  good  design,  flies  to  the 
place,  and  arrives  at  the  very  instant  when  the 


K:' 


<? 


394 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


i*^ 


:-■■.-       .     »»■ 


pistols  were  cocked  to  terminate  the  prisoner's 
existence.  "  Stop  !  "  vociferates  the  feeling  Pel- 
chimo.  At  this  word  the  execution  is  suspend- 
ed, and  an  hour  after,  the  Black-Foot  enemy 
and  robber  is  tended,  in  the  chieftain's  lodge, 
with  all  the  kindness  that  could  be  lavished  on 
a  noble  and  much-loved  sufferer. 

Father  Mengarini,  after  having  dressed  his 
wounds,  spoke  to  him  of  God,  and  his  judg- 
ments :  the  sick  man  answered,  that  it  was  the 
first  time  he  had  heard  these  great  truths.  Such 
a  reply,  made  the  father  cherish  the  hope  of 
saving  his  soul ;  and,  also,  of  contributing,  by 
means  of  this  man,  to  the  designs  of  mercy, 
which,  it  seemed,  the  Almighty  God  had  towards 
this  terrible  nation.  "Brethren,"  said  he,  ad- 
dressing the  assembled  chiefs,  "during  four 
years  the  Black-gowns  have  been  among  you, 
and  each  day  have  they  spoken  to  you  of  God. 
You  know  well  that  His  divine  Son  not  only 
died  on  the  cross  for  all  men,  but  even  pardoned 
his  enemies,  and  prayed  for  his  executioners,  to 
teach  us  how  we  should  act  in  the  like  occasions. 
An  enemy  has  fallen  into  your  hands — re- 
member, he  has  a  soul  like  yours,  redeemed  by 
the  blood  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  destined  to  sing 
eternally  the   divine  mercy  of  your   Saviour  ! 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


395 


-  prisoner's 
feeling  Pel- 
is  suspend- 
^'oot  enemy 
iin's  lodge, 
lavished  on 

dressed  his 

his  judg- 

it  was  the 

nths.   Such 

he  hope  of 

buting,  by 

of  mercy, 

id  towards 

id  he,  ad- 

iring   four 

mong  you, 

ou  of  God. 

not  only 

pardoned 

ioners,  to 

occasions. 

ands — re- 

eemed  by 

5d  to  sing 

Saviour ! 


What  shall  be  done  with  this  man  ?  Is  he  to 
live,  or  must  he  die  ?  "  "  Let  him  live,"  answer- 
ed every  tongue.  Overjoyed  to  find  their  hearts 
so  replete  with  compassion,  the  Black- gown  was 
expressing  his  satisfaction  to  the  assembled 
tribe,  when  he  was  told  that  some  obscure 
savages,  of  a  different  tribe,  were  not  of  the  same 
opinion  as  the  generous  chieftains  who  sur- 
rounded him.  This  information  induced  the 
father  to  take  a  different  tone ;  and  addressing 
the  murmurers,  he  thus  spoke :  "  Brethren !  when 
we  pardon  a  foe,  we  imitate  the  ordinary  con- 
duct of  God  towards  men.  Who,  among  you, 
has  not  sinned  during  his  life  ?  And  how  often 
has  God  forgiven  you  ?  If,  instead  of  forgetting 
your  multiplied  offences,  the  Almighty  had 
placed  your  souls  in  the  power  of  your  infernal 
enemy,  what  would  now  be  your  fate  ?  But  no ; 
God  has  not  treated  you  thus  ;  he  has  sent  his 
ministers  among  you, — numbered  you  among 
his  children,  and  promised  heaven  to  your 
fidelity  and  compassion  for  the  unfortunate  ;  and 
who  knows,  if  this  signal  favor  may  not  depend 
on  the  generosity  you  exercise  towards  your 
enemy  ?  The  blood  of  .Jesus  Christ  pleads  for 
mercy  in  his  behalf.  Already  have  your  chiefs 
pronounced  his  pardon.     Will  you  imitate  their 


r 

/i', 

•    .     •  ^ 

' 

-J'! 

*sm 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


<  Ik     . 


noble  eonduct  ?  Ah !  if  you  refuse,  take  your 
knives  and  bury  them  in  your  enemy's  heart ! 
But,  from  that  instant,  call  not  God  your  Father ; 
cease  saying  to  Him :  *  forgive  us  our  trespasses 
as  we  forgive  those  vi^ho  trespass  against  us  ; ' 
for,  our  Common  Father  might  hear  your  prayer, 
but,  it  would  be  for  your  eternal  reprobation." 
This  brief  but  energetic  appeal  caused  such 
sensation  throughout  the  auditory,  that  every 
one  approved  the  first  decision.  From  that 
moment  the  entire  village  of  St.  Mary's,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  malicious  hearts,  shared  in 
the  generous  sentiments  of  the  Flat-Head  chiefs. 
Selpisto,  a  chieftain  of  the  Pends-d'Oreilles, 
happened  to  be,  at  this  time,  at  St.  Mary's.  He 
took  the  Black-Foot  under  his  protection,  and 
when  he  recovered  from  his  wounds,  loaned  him 
a  horse  to  return  to  his  country ;  and  he  even 
redoubled  his  attention  at  the  moment  when 
he  received  the  news  that  one  of  his  sons  had 
fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the  Black-Feet.  When  the 
youth  was  met  by  his  enemies,  he  was  returning 
in  triumph  to  St.  Mary's,  with  the  horses  recent- 
ly stolen  from  the  village.  His  bravery  had 
forced  the  robbers  to  return  them  ;  this  circum- 
stance rendered  his  loss  a  still  greater  afiliction 
to  his  family.    The  return  of  the  Black-Foot,  so 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


397 


take  your 
ay's  heart ! 
)ur  Father ; 
'  trespasses 
gainst  us ; ' 
rour  prayer, 
iprobation." 
lused   such 

that  every 
From  that 
^'s,  with  the 
1,  shared  in 
lead  chiefs. 
s-d'Oreilles, 
lary's.  He 
ection,  and 
loaned  him 
nd  he  even 
nent  when 
is  sons  had 

When  the 
LS  returning 
rses  recent- 
•avery  had 
his  circum- 

r  affliction 
,ck-Foot,  so 


honorably  dismissed,  and  the  relation  he  gave 
the  tribe  of  the  mercy  exercised  towards  him, 
caused  his  nation  to  look  upon  the  Flat-Heads 
in  a  different  light,  "  I  am  very  glad,"  wrote 
Father  Mengarini,  "  that  this  affair  terminated 
amicably.  I  trust  that  the  future  will  prove, 
that  the  Almighty,  after  having  exercised  mercy 
towards  this  unfortunate  sinner,  has  also  par- 
ticular graces  in  reserve  for  this  perfidious  and 
benighted  nation,  which  I  hope,  is  destined 
to  receive  the  light  of  the  gospel.  Should  any 
fathers  be  named  to  this  mission,  I  should  be 
too  happy  to  be  of  their  number." 

To  whom  are  the  Black-Feet  indebted  for  a 
change  so  consoling,  both  to  religion  and  hu- 
manity ?  Next  to  Almighty  God,  we  may  safely 
say,  they  owe  it  to  the  admirable  conduct  of  the 
Flat-Heads,  especially  since  the  residence  of  the 
missionaries  among  the  tribe.  Some  remark- 
able instances  of  virtue  were  exhibited  during 
the  hunting  season. 

On  quitting  St.  Mary's  our  pious  neophytes 

added  some  short  invocations  to  their  morning 

and  evening  prayers ;  1,  to  the  Heart  of  Jesus, 

as  protector  of  the  men's  confraternity;  2,  to 

the  blessed  Virgin,  patroness   of  the  women's 

modality  ;  3,  to  St.  Michael,  model  of  the  brave  ; 

18 


pr-f 


'>  If 


.    t 


808 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


i 

i 
,  4  ■'( 


4,  to  St.  Raphael,  the  guide  of  travellers  ;  5,  to 
St.  Hubert,  the  patron  of  hunters  ;  6,  to  St. 
Francis  Xavier,  for  the  conversion  of  idolaters. 
We  shall  see,  that  these  pious  aspirations  were 
not  addressed  to  Heaven  in  vain. 

The  eve  preceding  the  anniversary  of  St. 
Francis  Xavier's  canonization,  the  missionary 
administered  baptism  to  a  Black-Foot,  whose 
example  induced  many  others  to  solicit  the  like 
favor.  The  reception  of  the  holy  sacraments  of 
penance  and  eucharist,  w^as  very  frequent. 
There  were  430  confessions,  (children  included), 
350  communions,  103  of  which  took  place  the 
last  Sunday.  Only  one  person  was  left,  in  the 
camp  ;  he  having  recently  made  his  first  com- 
munion, did  not  renew  it  during  the  chase  ; 
wherea  ,  his  companions  approached  two  or 
three  times,  and  some,  even  more  frequently. 
The  pious  practice  of  saying  the  Angelus,  re- 
citing the  Rosary,  and  singing  canticles,  was 
maintained  throughout  the  camp.  The  chiefs 
displayed  their  zeal  for  every  species  of  good  ; 
an  unalterable  patience  was  the  distinguishing 
virtue  of  all,  and  this  is  saying  much,  if  we  con- 
sider the  trials  attending  the  hunting  season. 
Their  resignation  to  the  Divine  will,  was  strongly 
manifested.     Curing  twenty-four  days  they  had 


I  - 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


399 


Hers ;  5,  to 
;  6,  to  St. 
f  idolaters, 
ations  were 

5ary   of  St. 
missionary 
Poot,  whose 
icit  the  like 
craments  of 
•y   frequent, 
n  included), 
ok  place  the 
\  left,  in  the 
is  first  com- 
the  chase ; 
lied   two   or 
frequently. 
Angelus,  re- 
mticles,  was 
The  chiefs 
es  of  good ; 
stinguishing 
:h,  if  we  con- 
iting  season, 
was  strongly 
ays  they  had 


been  toiling  onwards,  undergoing  much  suffering 
from  a  rigorous  abstinence,  when  the  news  was 
spread  that  a  herd  of  buffaloes  had  been  seen  in 
the  environs.  The  Indians  repaired  thither,  but 
it  was  to  encounter  a  keen  disappointment. 
Thus,  the  poor  Flat-IIcads  found  themselves 
constrained  either  to  fast  or  seek  food  in  the 
country  of  the  Black-Feet.  As  their  horses 
were  in  a  better  condition  than  those  of  the 
other  tribes,  they  resolved  to  risk  the  dangerous 
expedient.  Four  days  they  traversed  heights 
and  floods:  the  weather  was  cold  and  snow  lay 
on  the  ground  ;  no  animals  were  to  be  seen.  At 
last,  on  Wednesday  in  Ember- week,  the  mission- 
ary Avarned  his  little  flock  that  the  moment  was 
propitious  for  addressing  Heaven  to  implore  the 
goods  of  earth ;  but,  he  added  :  "  if  you  wish  the 
Divine  bounty  to  shed  on  you  His  gifts,  you 
must  promise  not  to  abuse  them."  His  words 
were  attended  to  with  deep  emotion,  and  each 
savage,  according  to  the  Indian  expression, 
"  Arranged  his  heart  and  began  to  pray."  The 
next  morning,  (Thursday),  herds  of  cattle  were 
seen  in  the  neighborhood ;  and  on  Friday  and 
Saturday  so  many  were  killed  that  their  great 
number  encumbered  the  lodges. 

Already   was  the   camp  on    its    homeward 


1 


if  r        f  V      I 


»  ;    .  '     ■  >  •  ■ 


\  * 


.1 


^i 


Hi 


400 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


march,  when,  12th  March,  the  chief,  reaching 
the  top  of  a  mountain  which  commanded  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  plain,  suddenly  stopped — 
and  after  gazing  fixedly  for  some  time,  discover- 
ed moving  objects  at  the  verge  of  the  horizon. 
At  first,  those  around  him  imagined  they  saw 
buffaloes  ;  next,  they  fancied  they  could  discover 
a  herd  of  deer  ;  the  final  conclusion  was,  that 
an  armed  party  of  Black-Feet  rapidly  approach- 
ed them.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  Victor,  the 
chief,  lost  nothing  of  his  usual  presence  of  mind. 
He  calmly  quitted  the  head  of  the  camp,  mounted 
his  horse,  and  making  the  animal  perform  a  few 
evolutions,  he  was  instantly  surrounded  by  the 
bravest  of  his  band.  Isaac  proposed  prayer. — 
Victor  exclaimed :  "  Let  us  wait  until  the 
Black-Feet  show  themselves  yonder."  Saying 
these  words,  he  pointed  out  a  second  mountain 
which  concealed  us.  Never  had  any  position 
offered  more  advantages.  The  Black-Feet  were 
climbing  the  opposite  side — they  were  already 
fatigued.  Between  the  mountain  and  the  chain 
which  crowned  the  horizon  extended  an  im- 
mense plain,  without  either  tree,  ravine  or  river 
that  could  offer  them  the  least  rampart.  They 
were  but  thirty-seven  in  number,  newly  exer- 
cised in  arms,  and  on  foot.     The  Flat-Heads,  on 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


401 


the  contrary,  were  on  horseback,  numbered  fifty, 
in  the  flower  of  age,  all  well  armed  and  con- 
ducted by  chieftains  whose  shadow  would  put  to 
flight  more  enemies  than  were  now  approach- 
ing. Besides,  Victor  was  at  their  head  ;  he  who 
had  never  been  conquered,  and  what  is  more, 
not  even  wounded,  though  six  different  times  he 
had  been  encompassed  by  the  Black-Feet.  The 
marked  protection  of  Heaven  had  thus  manifest- 
ed itself  in  his  favor  ! 

The  enemy,  then,  could  not  escape  them. 
All  eyes  were  strained  towards  the  spot  indi- 
cated by  the  chief,  expecting  the  approach  of  the 
foe.  Victor  judges  that  there  is  "  periculum  in 
mora ; "  he  casts  a  smiling  look  on  the  mission- 
ary, raises  his  fire-arms,  utters  a  yell,  urges  on 
his  steed,  and  flies  to  the  combat,  followed  by 
the  bravest  of  the  land.  Perceiving  their  ap- 
proach, the  Black-Feet  took  to  flight,  casting 
away  all  that  embarrassed  them  ;  but  beholding 
themselves  hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  they  endeav- 
oured to  rally ;  the  Flat-Heads  hasten  towards 
them ;  Victor's  horse  having  been  lately  wound- 
ed, Fidele,  Ambrose,  Isaac,  Ferdinand,  and 
Emanuel,  passed  their  chief,  and  arrived  first  in 
front  of  the  enemy.     Fidele  spoke  not ;  but  his 

warrior  name,  signifying  Thunderbolt,  sufficient- 

18* 


L^<1 


Hm 


wr 

h  J 

f  ■ 

•' 

rM 

\i 

•'A 


% 


'5*' 


t^-    .1 


^^ 


i 


'♦,•• 


r^, '  ■'  1^ : .  ■ 


T'-     f 


il-V'^'-"  ^ 


402 


OREGON      MISSIONS. 


ly  declared  his  courage.     Ambrose  announced 
him  by  that  title,  which  causes  the  Black-Feet 
to  turn  pale,  and   added,   in  a  terrible   voice  : 
"Fire  not!     If  you  fire   you  are  dead  men!" 
God  spoke  by  his  lips.     Instead  of  firing,  one  of 
the  Black-Feet  threw  down  his  gun,  whilst  seve- 
ral others  extended  their  arms,  in  a  supplicating 
attitude.     The  brave  Ambrose  refused  not  the 
pardon  his  enemies  solicited ;  for  true  courage 
will  never  bathe   itself  in  the  blood  of  a  con- 
quered foe,  who  appeals  for  mercy,  and  whose 
conversion  has  been  begged  of  Heaven.     The 
generous  warrior  willingly  extends  his  hand  to 
the  foe  ;  and  allj  imitating  his  example,  show 
that  clemency  has  conquered.     At  this  happy 
moment,  when  such  Christian  sentiments  per- 
vaded every  heart,  the    BlacJf-^own  advanced, 
find  the  conquered  foes  ofl>;red  him  their  hands, 
and,  spreading  a  bufllilo-skin  on  the  snow,  in- 
vited him  to  seat  himself,  and  receive  the  honors 
of  the  calumet.     Whilst  the  smoke  of  peace  as- 
cended towards  heaven,  presents  were  offered, 
and  received,  on  both  sides.     The  oldest  of  the 
Black-Feet  band,  seated  on  the  left  of  the  mis- 
sionary, presented  him  a  pair  of  Indian  mocca- 
sins, and,  strange  to  say,  they  were  embroider- 
ed, with  a  blue  cross  standing  out  conspicuous- 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


403 


announced 
Black-Feet 
ible  voice : 
ead  men  ! " 
ring,  one  of 
whilst  seve- 
5upplicating 
sed  not  the 
•ue  courage 
d  of  a  con- 

and  whose 
aven.  The 
his  hand  to 
mple,  show 

this  happy 
iments  per- 
1  advanced, 
their  hands, 
e  snow,  in- 
e  the  honors 
>f  peace  as- 

ere  offered, 
>ldest  of  the 

of  the  mis- 
Uan  mocca- 

embroider- 
:onspicuous- 


ly  from  the  surrounding  work.  The  poor  idoki- 
ter  !  did  he,  at  that  moment,  think  of  the  "quam 
speciosi  pades  ?  "  Most  probably  not ;  but,  it 
is  certain,  he  remarked  the  pleasure  caused  by 
his  present,  and  felt  an  assurance,  from  the 
manner  in  which  it  was  received,  that,  hence- 
forward, all  hearts  would  be  united. 

The  Flat-Head  camp  set  out  on  their  return. 
The  thirty-seven  Black-Feet  followed  them. 
The  thawing  of  the  snow  rendered  the  roads  ex- 
ceedingly bad,  and  the  kind-hearted  Flat-Heads, 
compassionating  the  fate  of  their  new  friends, 
did  all  they  could  to  help  them  on  their  journey. 
Before  separating,  Victor  conducted  the  princi- 
pal Black-Feet  into  the  missionary's  lodge,  that 
he  might  witness  their  parting  good  friends ; 
and,  during  half  an  hour,  every  thing  was  said 
that  could  strengthen  the  new-formed  friendship 
between  the  tribes.  The  Black-Feet  told  us, 
that  for  some  time  past  they  had  been  expect- 
ing a  Black-gown,  and  that,  when  he  should 
come  among  them,  he  would  be  well  received  ; 
that,  henceforth,  they  and  the  Flat-Heads  would 
live  like  brothers  ;  "  that  the  prayer  of  the  Flat- 
Heads  should  be  theirs."  And,  although  the  sun 
had  set,  they  assisted  at  prayers  ;  after  which, 


404 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


1? 


i  <  *  w  -^       I     ' 


a  . 


they  exchanged  some  tokens  of  friendship,  and 
left,  declaring  that  they  were  going  to  persuade 
their  village  to  act  as  they  had  done. 

The  19th  March,  feast  of  St.  Joseph,  seven 
days  after  the  pardon  so  generously  granted  the 
Black-Feet,  Heaven  bestowed  on  us  the  fruit  of 
our  forbearance  in  the  amicable  visit  of  the 
grand  chief  of  the  "  Petite  Robe,  Itchetles  Mel- 
akas — or  the  three  crows."  All  the  chiefs 
smoked  with  him  under  the  missionary's  tent. 
Ambrose  explained  to  him  the  Catholic  Tree  ; 
Victor  invited  him  to  pass  the  night  in  his 
lodge.  Such  attention  completely  gi;  ^H  his 
heart;  and  the  next  morning  the  Bla  i  '  oot 
communicated  to  the  missionary  the  resolution 
he  had  formed  of  soliciting  the  admission  of  his 
twenty-eight  lodges  among  the  Flat-Head  tribe  ; 
and  that  he  would  repair  to  the  village  of  St. 
Mary's  for  that  purpose,  towards  the  decline  of 
the  present  moon. 

During  the  night  of  the  19th  some  Black-Feet, 
belonging  to  a  distant  tribe,  stole  into  the  camp 
of  the  Flat-Heads  and  carried  off  five  horses ; 
but  one  of  the  robbers  fell,  pierced  with  balls, 
and  two  strokes  of  the  knife.  It  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  describe  the  horrors  of  that  night !  the 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


405 


idship,  and 
to  persuade 

seph,  seven 
granted  the 

the  fruit  of 
^isit  of  the 
hetles  Mel- 

the  chiefs 
nary's  tent, 
holic  Tree  ; 
ight   in   his 

g'ii;  ""d    his 

Bla  !  '  oot 
3  resolution 
ission  of  his 
Head  tribe ; 
llage  of  St. 
e  decline  of 

Black-Feet, 
o  the  camp 
ive  horses ; 
with  balls, 
uld  be  difR- 
;  night !  the 


savage  yells,  mingled  with  the  sound  of  thunder, 
and  report  of  musketry.  The  miserable  des- 
perado, by  the  lightning's  glare,  could  be  per- 
ceived on  the  ground,  streaiaing  torrents  of 
blood  from  his  wounds,  and  his  unhappy  soul 
about  to  quit  the  agonizing  body,  to  find  in  eter- 
nity the  chastisement  due  to  its  crimes.  What 
else  could  the  minister  of  God  do,  in  such  a  cir- 
cumstance, but  pray  the  Father  of  Mercy  to 
perform  a  miracle  of  grace  in  favor  of  the  crimi- 
nal. 

The  Flat-Heads  have  abolished  the  barbarous 
custom  of  reeking  their  vengeance  on  the  mu- 
tilated body  of  their  enemy.  They  even  carry 
their  generosity  so  far,  as  to  give  sepulture  to 
all  who  die  among  them.  The  robber  owed  his 
grave  to  the  bravest  of  the  Flat-Heads,  the 
chief  of  a  numerous  family,  and  the  adopted 
father  of  two  children,  whom  the  Black-Feet 
have  rendered  orphans. 

The  following  day  offered  nothing  remarka- 
ble, if  I  except  the  many  proofs  of  solid  virtue 
displayed  by  the  camp.  To  afford  them  plea- 
sure, the  missionary  amused  himself  in  his 
leisure  hours  tracing  with  a  pen  several  histori- 
cal facts,  drawn  from  their  annals,  and  suited  to 


1 


if 


; 


I, : 


^i 


.1 
j 


I  ■  :•?   .Y, 


406 


OREGON       AIISSIONS. 


their  tastes  ;  such  as,  march  of  the  camp,  divers 
occupations,  labors  of  the  chase,  feats  of  arms, 
singular  tragic  scenes,  religious  ceremonies,  &c., 
&c.  It  would  be  difficult  to  relate  the  pleasure 
this  little  collection  gave  them ;  and,  what  is 
still  better,  it  contributed  powerfully  to  raise  the 
authority  of  the  chieftains  in  the  estimation  of 
the  young  men,  and  to  excite  in  them  a  noble 
emulation  in  the  practice  of  good ;  for  expe- 
rience has  clearly  proved,  both  in  civilized  and 
uncivilized  society,  that  this  quality  is  not  only 
a  stimulus  to  noble  actions,  but  a  greater  pre- 
ventive of  evil,  than  all  chastisements  united. 

Human  ingenuity  is  useful,  but  it  can  do  little 
towards  the  salvation  of  souls,  if  it  be  not  joined 
to  fervent  prayer.  Every  missionary  should  be 
convinced  of  this  truth.  Our  pious  neophytes 
have  experienced  the  efficacy  of  frequent  re- 
course to  Heaven.  Each  day  they  had  invoked 
the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus,  and  the  Holy  Heart 
of  Mary  ;  and  the  first  Friday  and  Saturday  of 
March  proved  the  most  successful  hunting  days. 
We  had  invoked  the  patron  of  hunters,  and  our 
chase  was  relatively  fortunate.  We  had  im- 
plored the  protection  of  the  glorious  St.  Michael, 
and  never  did  our  chiefs  display  greater  valor 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


407 


mp,  divers 
s  of  arms, 
lonies,  &c., 
e  pleasure 
d,  what  is 
o  raise  the 
imation  of 
m  a  noble 
for  expe- 
dlized  and 
is  not  only 
reater  pre- 
j  united, 
an  do  little 
not  joined 
should  be 
neophytes 
'equent  re- 
ad invoked 
loly  Heart 
Saturday  of 
nting  days. 
Ts,  and  our 
'^e  had  im- 
>t.  Michael, 
eater  valor 


in  tl  e  presence  of  the  enemy.  We  had  entreat- 
ed the  Apostle  of  the  Indies  to  obtain  the  con- 
version of  the  Indians,  and  one  party  of  Black- 
Feet  falls  under  our  power,  whilst  the  other 
amicably  visits  us,  and  departs,  exclaiming, 
"  The  prayer  of  the  Flat-Heads  shall  be  ours." 
In  fine,  we  had  taken  St.  Raphael  as  our  guide  ; 
our  journey  was  long,  fatiguing,  and  perilous, 
nevertheless,  no  serious  accident  occurred, 
though  we  often  fell  on  the  ice  and  rocks.  Not 
a  hunter  in  our  camp  was  there  who  did  not  re- 
mark this  manifest  protection  ;  and  nearly  all 
testified  their  gratitude  to  God  by  a  fervent 
communion. 

On  Passion  Sunday  one  hundred  and  three 
approached  the  holy  table.  The  evening  of  so 
happy  a  day  was  crowned  by  the  erection  of  a 
cross,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Eugene, 
because  the  previous  evening  a  quiver  of  that 
excellent  Flat-Head,  and  a  letter  written  on  a 
piece  of  skin,  after  the  Indian  fashion,  apprised 
us  that  he  had  been  massacred  in  the  neighbor- 
hood by  a  party  of  Banax.  We  then  remem- 
bered, with  consolation,  that,  on  Ash  Wednes- 
day, a  few  days  before  his  death,  he  came  to  see 
us,  and  during  his  stay  received  th(^  holy  commu- 


il;l 


'^   i  i 


M 


A' 


Iw^ 


i 


•I    1 


:r 


0     408 


OREGON       MISSIONS. 


nicn.  Thus,  all  seemed  to  concur,  even  this 
death,  in  causing  us  to  bless  the  Divine  Bounty 
which  ever  watches  with  paternal  care,  to  sup- 
ply the  necessities  of  his  confiding  children. 


m 


ml 


^1 


5f# 


I 


AD    MAJOREM    DEI    6L0RIAM. 


1 


,  even  this 
ine  Bounty 
are,  to  sup- 
lildren. 


OUR   FATHER, 


IN     THE 


Siat'^cab  anb  Penb-b^^reille  Conguagc. 


THE    SIGN    OF    +    THE    CROSS. 

Skwest  kylc-e-oii,  Onls  kezees,  Ouls  Saint  Pacnagt. 

In  the  nuine  u(  the  Father,  and  of  the  iSon,  anil  ot'tholluly  Chost. 

Komiectzfgail. 

May  it  be  so. 

Kyle-c-nu  Itchi' .'neinask,  ask  west  kowukshamcnsheiu, 

a-i-lctzcmilkou 
Our  Father        of  heaven,       moy  thy  name  be  respected 

every  where 
ye-elskyloog.     Entziczie  telletzia  spoe-oez.     Assintaiis  ye-clstoloog 

etzagcei 
on  the  earth.  May  thou  be  master  of  all  hearts.     Mny  thy  will  be  done  oa 

earth  as  it  is 
Itchitchemabk.     Koogwitzclt  yettilgwa  Inkaitsiapetzincin. 
in  heaven.  Give  us  this  day         nil  our  wants. 

Kowaeksmecmillem  klotaiyc  kloistskwcn  etzageel  kaitskolgwclem 
Forgive  us  the  evil  we  have  done       as  we  forgivo 

klotaye  kloistskwen  klieLskyloeg  koayalokshilem  takack.skwcnteia 
the  evil  done  unto  us  by  others.  Grunt  us  thy  hel|)   to  avoid 

klotaye  kowaeksgweeltcm  klotaye.  Komietitzcgail. 

evil  but  deliver  us  from  evil.  JSluy  il  be  siu. 


OUR    FATHER, 

IN   THE   FLATBOVV    AND    KOETENAY    LANGUAGE. 

Akikliai  Stailoe,  Akaltes,  Saint  Kilkiltlui. 

In  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of  the  iSon,  and  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

Schacykiakakaaike. 
May  It  be  so. 

Katitoe  naitle  naite,  akiklinais  zcdabitskinne  wilkane. 

Otir  Father,  who  iirt  in  heaven,  may  thy  name  be  grfat  and  honoured. 

Ninshalinne  oshcmake  kapaik  akaitlainam. 

Re  thou  the  muster    of  all       hpurts. 

Inshazctluit^  younoatnake  yckakackinaittc 

May  thy  will       be  done  on  earth  as  it  is  in  heuven. 

Komnakaikc  logenie  nic-genawaishne  naiosaem  miaiteke 

(irnnt  us  this  day  all  our  wants. 

Kekepaimc  nekoetjekoetleaitlc  ixzcai, 

I'orjE^ive  us  all  the  evil  we  linve  done 

lyakiakakaaike  iyazcaikinawash  kokakipaimcnaitlc. 

ns  we  forgive  all  the  evil  done  unto  us. 

Amatikezaw^s  itchkestshimmokakkow^llc  akatak/cn. 

Strengthen  us  against  all  evil,  and  deliver  us  fiom  it. 

Shaeykiakakaaike. 

May  It  be  so. 


f  J' 


H^}0.  v- 


ki\ 


OUR    FATHER, 

IN    THE    ASSINIBOIN    LANGUAGE. 


Tnchiachttoobe  machpiachta  yaeoenshi  ba-eninshi 
Our  Father  heftven  who  art  there  let  it 

nabishi  nietshalzilzi,  Nitanwiadezi,  cktyyaegnizi, 
be  great,  thy  nurne,  thy  kingdom        come, 

yetsihueszizi  aittshaiszi  lenmachkoetzizi  aseettshaiszi  machtpiachta 

thy  will  be  done        on  eiirtli  as  it  is  in  heaven, 

Tnkocm  nangaak  uezuezandie  innimbechain, 

give  us  this  day  the  means  of  life, 

ezieyakink  taniozeni  etchoengoebezie  sinkimbishnitsfaaa  ektaes 
look  over       our  evil       doings  as  we  look  over  those  who  do 

etchoengoebezie. 
evil  unto  us. 

Youoechtontjen  tanniaesni  ctchoem  goebishniet  tchain, 
Guide  us  that  we        not  full  into  evil, 

napeen  giettshioenn  ingninnaege.  Eetchees. 

and  drive  olf  all  evil  from  us.  Amen. 


m 


V-   f 


'   1 


tffV 


■I 


|< 


OUR    FATHER. 

IN    THE    CREE    LANGUAGE. 

Eokosisit  mina,  ewiotawit  raina,  emiosit  manito,  owigowionik. 
Him  who  bus  a  Son,  him  who  bus  a  Father,  him  who  is  the  beautiful  Spirit, 
in  his  name.  Pitone  Ekeesiikik. 

May  it  be  so. 

Notanan  kits!  kijikok  epian  pitone  mewaitsikatek  kiwigo\rin,  pitone 

Our  Father  in  the  great  heaven  being  seated,  may  it  be  honoured  thy  name, 
may  it 

otitamomakad  kitibcitsikewin,  ispits  enatota  kawigan  kitsi  kisikok, 
arrive  thy  kingdom  (reign)  likotlice  being  followed  in  the  great  heaven, 

pitone  ekusi  iji  waskitaskamik.     Anots  kakijikak  miinanipakweji 

may  it  be  the  same  on  earth.  Now  in  this  day       give  us  our 

ganiminan  mina  latwaw  kigigake.     Canisi  kaiji  kasenamawayakik 

bread  and      in  every    day.  As  we  have  remitted  to  tliose 

ka  ki  matsitota  koyankik  ekusi  iji  kasinamawinan  eki 

who  to  us  have  done  evil  so  likewise  remit  unto  us       what  we 

matsitotamank.    Pisiskeiminan  kitsi  eka  matsi  mamitoueitamank 

have  done  evil.         Be  merciful  to  us  that  we  fall  not    into  evil, 

iekatenamawinan  kamayatok.  Pitone  Ekeesiikik. 

keep  away  from  us  all  what  is  evil.  May  it  be  ao. 


JAGE, 


zi  machtpiachta 
in  heaven, 


tsfaaa  ektaes 
who  do 


am. 


OUR  FATHER, 

IN   THE    BLACK-FOOT    LANGUAGE. 

Kikan&lzeniekasin  ochkoeye  tokakisint 

Of  the  Father  in  his  name,  of  the  Son,  of  the  Holy  Ppirit. 

Kamoemanigtoep. 
May  it  be  so. 

Kinana  spoeests  tzittapigpi,  kitzinnekazen  kagkakomimokzin. 

Our  Father  in  heaven  who  art,     thy  name,  may  it  be  holy. 

Nagkitapiwatog  neto  kinyokizip. 

Thy  reign  may  it  arrive. 

Kitzizigtaen  nejakapestoeta  tzagkom,  nietziewae  spoegsfs. 

Thy  will,  may  it  be  done       on  earth       as  it  is  in  heaven. 

Jkogkiowa  ennoch  raatogkwitapi.       i 

All  we  need,  this  day  unto  us  grnnt. 

Istapikistomnkit  nagzikarao^t  koroonetziewae  nistowa 

Forgive  the  evil      we  have  done  as  we  pardon  the  wrong  we  have  received, 

Nagkezis  tapi  kestemo6g. 

Help  us        against  sin. 

Speininu6k  mat^akoziep  makapi.  Kamoemanigtoep. 

From  all         what  is  evil       deliver  us.  May  it  be  so. 


igowionik. 
e  beautiful  Spirit, 
'■  Ekeesiikik. 
be  so. 

wigowin,  pitone 
anoured  thy  name, 

n  kitsi  kisikok, 
the  great  heaven, 

iinanipakweji 
ve  us  our 

tiamawayakik 

>1  to  those 

ki 
hat  we 

itoueitamank 

ivil, 

Ekeesiikik. 
le  lo. 


OUR    FATHER, 

IN   THE  POTAVVOTOMIE    LANGUAGE,     j 

+  TcHlBiATlKONiKKWiN— sign  of  the  Cross. 

Olinosowinig  Weosimit,  ipi  Wekwissimit,  ipi  menojuwepisit 

Mennito. 
In  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of  the  Son,  and  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

Ape  iw  nomikug. 

Amen. 

Noeiitan — our   Father. 

Nosinan  Wakwik  ebiyin  ape  kitchitwa  kitchilwa  wenitamag 
kitinosowin,  enakosiyin  ape  piyak  kitewetako  tipu  wakwig,  ape 
tepwetakon  chote  kig.     Ngom  ekijikiwog  michinag  mamitchiyak 
ponigetedwichinag  kego  kachi  kichiinakineyi  ponigclcdwoiket 
woye  kego  kachi  kichiimidgin,  kinamochinag  wapatadiyak. 
Cbitchiikwan  nenimochinag  meyanek  waotichkakoyakin. 

Ape  iw  nomikug. 


VOCABULARY. 


I '  ft 


.1      J**  ' 


1 1   r.|.'  * 


Hair 

Forehead 

Nose 

Mouth 

Teeth 

Tongue 

Cheeks 

Ears 

Chin 

Neck 

i\rms 

Elbow 

Shoulder 

Hand 

Fingers 

Belly 

Back-bone 

Thighs 

Knees 

Legs 

Feet 

L'ps 

Eyes 


FLAT-HEAD 

BLACK-FOOT. 

CREE. 

CREE. 

Komike 

Notaknne 

Nistika-& 

1  P6ak 

Tchilchemaiche 

Nonissi 

Miskutek 

2  Nizo 

Spezaeks 

Nopisis 

Niakiwen 

3  Nisto 

Spelimetzim 

Naoji 

Tapisker 

4  Neou 

Gataig 

NogpikiSt 

Nepita 
Dn'iii 

5  Nianen 

Taigoetzetze 

Naelzintii 

6  Koutonazek 

Shilkzemoos 

Nozip  )inuin 

Nnnawai 

7  Tepeko 

Ciiine 

Nogtokie 

Nigtawake 

8  Eimneo 

Koiaipaits 

Nogpiskinny 

GwaeskonSou  9  'J'egametata 

1'cliesspin 

Nogkokinne 

Nikwayu 

JO  Mitatat 

Stitchewagen 

Notezi'.e 

Nespiton 

Zintchen|)(>»kn 

Nogk'iinetsis 

Dossken 

ASSINIBOIN. 

Lintcheniilkoy 

Nogktt/.ikkie 

Digtiman 

1  Katcheet 

Tchails 

Nogkiziiiiks 

Tzigtsliie 

2  Num 

StBgtig 

Tommakiotketzis  Neinezittzi- 

3  Yamine 

Olin 

Nokoen 

schan 

4  Toiiza 

Zintshametcliin 

Nogtazistkin 

5  Znpita 

Zintzemoostche 

Noketokezinnen 

C  Sliagape 

Tcoeininekaisne 

Noketokeziss 

7  Shayoen 

Titchemuekshen 

Nieziekzinnen 

8  SImgnoge 

Tzotchin 

Nietzigzip 

9Nuintchoeank 

Speliemetzin 

Notoinish 

Ndon 

10  Wi-ink 

Stitcliekoetkoltloest  Nowaaps 

Niskisick 

Cheniine 

in- 


r  f>i  * 


PLANTS  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 


Of  tohich  the  botanical  names  follow  . 


1.  Helenium 

2.  Sabbatia  Angularis 

3.  Spigelia  Marylandica 

4.  Geum  Geniculatum 

5.  Rudbeckia  Comentosa 

6.  Euchroma  Coccinea 

7.  Astet  Coccinnus. 

8.  Ilex  Ligustrifolia 

9.  Convallaria  Stellata 

10.  Chrysanthunum  Arcticum 

11.  Aronia  Amifolia 

12.  Polymnia  Uvedelia 

13.  Frasera  Caroliniensis 

14.  Ophrys,  Malaxis 


7 


15.  Sedum  Stenopetalum 

16.  Prunus  Duerinckii 

17.  Cantua  Aggregata 

18.  Rudbeckia  Purpurea 

19.  Actinomeris  Squarrosa 

20.  Cardamine  Bellidifolia 

21.  Houstonia  Longiflora 

22.  Melanthium  Monoicum 

23.  Liatris  Brachystachya 

24.  Rhexia  Mariana 

25.  Claytonia  Spathulata 

26.  Aquilegia  Formosa 

27.  Campanula  Dirarica 


Cn.EE. 

I  Peak 
2Nizo 

3  Nisto 

4  Neou 

5  Nianen 

6  Koutunazek 

7  Tei)eko 
J  8  Enaneo 
§ou  9  'i'egametata 

JO  Mitatat 


A8SINIB0IN. 

1  Katcheet 

2  Num 

3  Yamine 
4Toiiza 
5  Znpita 

G  Sliagnpe 

7  Sluiyoen 

8  Sli(i<;iioge 

9  Naiiitchoeank 

10  Wi-ink 

Cliemino 


1- 


opetalum 
rinckii 
regata 
'urpurea 
Squarrosa 
iellidifolia 
ongiflora 
Monoicum 
ijstachya 
iana 

tathulata 
)rmosa 
)irarica 


